UKC

Hi,

I tried on a few beginner climbing shoes today and I have decided on ones I liked called Scarpa Force X.

I am a size 9 UK and online the general recommendation is to buy these in size 9 or 8.5.

This was my feeling on trying two sizes:

Size 9 - Quite tight with both big toe and smaller toes scrunched up (can't wiggle them) and you could see toe knuckles from outside. Not comfortable but not massively painful either I would suggest but only wore for a few minutes.

Size 9.5 - I would describe as being relatively comfortable. Big toe pressed against the front and maybe very slightly bent so can't wiggle it. Other toes I would describe as flat and I could scrunch them up and wiggle if I tried.

They both felt there wasn't much air around the rest of the shoe. What size would you go for or does it really matter at this point?

Thanks

In reply to siouxchief:

Maybe have a look online for reviews or opinions that give you an idea how much they'll stretch (if at all).

Also, I found when I was a beginner that it was better to be able to feel my feet in not much discomfort mid-way up a route; it meant I could focus on the actual climbing.

I also remove my shoes when I'm not climbing, that allows me to wear a tighter pair whilst climbing, and get the blood supply back to my feet whilst belaying

In reply to siouxchief:
Rock shoes are supposed to fit skin tight (like a pair of ladies stockings, not a pair of woolly socks!) and if like most people you are unused to having your toes restricted so that you can't wiggle them this will feel uncomfortable.

The delicate balance is to identify if they are simply uncomfortable or actually painful (pain is bad!).

In reply to siouxchief:
My opinion is that as a beginner especially you want to enjoy your climbing, and you need shoes to be comfortable. You need your toes to be a bit "scrunched up" but you should still be comfortable in them for a couple of hours session.

It sounds like neither size option is quite right for you so I suggest you keep looking. Go to a shop that has a good variety of makes and models of shoes for you to try on. You may find a shoe that's a slightly different shape will allow you to both use your toes and be comfortable. The fit to your feet is more important than any features the shoe may or may not have.

Keep looking!

In reply to siouxchief:
Most of the advice from previous posters' is good. Not so sure about skin tight though.

Climbing shoes should fit firmly without being 'floppy' so you can get a more positive toe/foot placement on holds.
Remember, on hot days your feet will expand making them feel much tighter. Check out different linings
on the inside of shoes too. With or without socks is just a personal comfort thing, so don't follow the herd.
As a beginner you don't really need a top end technical shoe. In time you will naturally go that way with experience.

Final comment. After 40 years of cramming my feet into too tight shoes I have a lovely painful bunion!

Great advice everyone, thanks. I think I will go back and try on a few more different pairs and make sure they don't actually cross the pain threshold.

This is harder than I thought it would be...

In reply to siouxchief:

Maybe try a different shop too. Different shops stock different makes, and some provide great advice while some don't.

In reply to siouxchief:

If your first pair of shoes are too big you can still climb in them. They'll still be better than a pair of trainer and you'll still enjoy the climbing. You can always downsize when you get your second pair down the line.

It's better than a miserable pair of toe crushers.

In reply to siouxchief:

The shoe should basically be exactly the same length as your foot ie your toes should be just touching the end when the shoe is unweighted. Depending on the curve of the shoe the toes will then come under pressure as the foot is weighted.

For me the main choice is finding a shoe and lacing style that fits the width / shape of your foot. Now days I use Red Chili spirit velcros - I find velcro great for easing pressure across the width at the front of my foot. My regular partner has narrow feet and has lace ups.

Short answer is try on as many as you can. Try standing on a small hold or failing that a step on your big toe as you would climbing. The general feel should be pretty apparent when you try this.

Don't be an arse and try - in - the - shop - buy - on- line

In reply to GrahamD:
'Don't be an arse and try - in - the - shop - buy - on- line'

Yeah! Another cause of retailers disappearing from the streets!

In reply to siouxchief:
I have been climbing for 3 and a half years and have always found it difficult to find climbing shoes which properly fit - and that I am able to wear beyond trying on in the shop - due to problems with my toes. I have an ingrowing toe nail and therefore my climbing shoes have to be slightly on the comfortable side. I am aware that I am losing a bit of precision and accuracy in foot placement due to this but figure this compromise is worth it to be able to carry on enjoying long climbing sessions!