UKC

Hi all, I'm up in the Yorkshire Dales towards the end of the month and I have 1 day climbing there. I'm at around HVS and would like an area somewhere nearish to Ingleton. I'm not likely to be going up there again for climbing so it's a quick hit and run. Where would the collective hivemind recommend? Is Twistleton Scars worth a go?

I noticed theres a guidebook for the area and I wondered if anyone has an old copy they would be willing to sell second hand as I doubt I'll use it again. Usually I'm happy to climb without the books but as it's only a day, I don't want any dead time.
Many thanks in advance for replies and assistance.

In reply to olddirtydoggy:

Pot Scar is good, loads of quality VS and at least one good HVS. Sorry I can't help with the guide

In reply to olddirtydoggy:

Attermire is another choice - several starred HV's' Mellow Yellow (HVS 5b)for example

In reply to olddirtydoggy:
We had a good day at Oxenber Scar (Austwick) last year. Short Limestone 9-18metre climbs. Some with star ratings.
The 'Game Cock' Inn in the village had good food and beer too.

In reply to olddirtydoggy:
Previous reply mentioning Pot Scar is good advice. Crummackdale has a number of excellent HVSs of, unusually for Yorkshire limestone, a slabby nature, together with a lovely outlook. Great Close Scar might be considered an acquired taste but once again it's location above Malham Tarn cannot be faulted. I've a soft spot for the right wing of Malham Cove as it was one of my first climbing venues, but that was over 50 years ago - I'm told it's a little polished now; dramatic scenery though. Attermire has good short climbs but is complicated to suss out and a bit of a longer walk so maybe best avoided for a one day foray.

The definitive guide book is still available and I understand Rockfax have a "Northern Limestone" guide which includes the area among others. They're both around £20 - not much for a day's entertainment - compare cost of a footy match, a concert or an hour or two in the pub. And afterwards you can probably flog it on here for a tenner.

In reply to olddirtydoggy:

crummackdale. Venus, Olympic and little pink claire. quality 3 star hvs on the slopes of ingleborough. what more could you ask?

In reply to pebbles:

I walked underneath the crag in the pouring rain last year to recce it. The protection looked a bit 'sketchy' on some of the routes you've mentioned. Or did I just not see it? I fancy a return visit.

In reply to olddirtydoggy:

Depending on what the weather's been like, you might want to consider the gritstone around Skipton, something sunny e.g. Crookrise. Dales trad limestone isn't of the highest quality, and a lot of it seeps after rain (not sure about the destinations mentioned so far). You'll get a nice day's climbing at Crookrise even after recent rain, and grit is better in cool conditions, whereas limestone is just cold and more likely to be damp.

In reply to olddirtydoggy:

One day trad in t'Dale at HVS with no probable return ever? Malham right wing, well worth the drive from Ingleton.

In reply to olddirtydoggy:

Wow, thanks guys. This has saved me a lot of time, always greatful!

In reply to brianjcooper:

I thought it was ok for the grade. Little Pink Claire maybe a bit thin on the traverse but not hard. I'v certainly seen worse gear at lower grades!

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Rhylstone is great if the weather is still unseasonably warm and sunny but is high and exposed and can get very cold. can also be midgy on warm still overcast days! but is a lovely crag when conditions are right, there are few nicer places to be. crookrise sort of similar but some of the routes are a bit thin on gear . eastby small but a very quick walk in if the weather looks dodgy

In reply to olddirtydoggy: If you prefer the Grit then another vote for Crookrise from me.Will catch the sun if it's out !
Pleasant outlook and easy walk in from Resovoir car park.Eastby also another good suggestion-(especially if weather is poor -Yorkshire/October)even easier access.

In reply to olddirtydoggy:

Twistleton is most definately 'worth a go' in the VS / HVS range. I really like the climbing there and its right on your doorstep.

In reply to olddirtydoggy:

All the suggestions above are great suggestions, however, I think Hardonicus is on the money. If this is going to be your only trip to the area then it ought to be something spectacular. With that in mind, depending on what the weather is doing, I'd look at the following options:

If it has been dry: Malham Right Wing. In roughly the right neck of the woods for where you're going to be. However, can suffer from seepage, but will get all the sun going.

If you need somewhere fast drying: Rylstone. At Diff - E1 there just isn't a better gritstone crag in the area. End of! There are stacks and stacks of incredible routes in your grade range. Faces west so will get plentiful sun from midday but is exposed to the elements, so wrap up warm.

So these crags might not be within a 5 minute drive from Ingleton, but they are definitely crags with a big "Wow!" factor that will make you want to come back to the area.

Both of these crags can get cold if it's typical late October conditions, but no more so than any other crag

In reply to pebbles:

Many thanks for the info. Must get back again, if only for the grandeur of the Dales.

In reply to Will Hunt:

Noisy though. Crummackdale or Attermire - landscape + peace

In reply to olddirtydoggy:

Another vote for Pot Scar, and you also get Elaine's Tearoom in Feizor which is worth the drive alone, if only for the hot buttered teacakes.

In reply to pebbles:


Traverse on Little Pink Clare? Is there? I must have been doing summat else all these years! What's more the last time, a fortnight ago, I found the crux distinctly hard for Hard VS, even Yorks Hard VS. Getting old.

In reply to olddirtydoggy:

I would agree with those suggesting Malham Right Wing - some brilliant pitches.

In reply to olddirtydoggy:

Thanks again for the info. Rylstone and Pot Scar look like contenders. Looking at Malham right wing it seems most of the routes are quite high in my grade as I'm more low end of HVS and my second doesn't lead. So much to choose from. Just need a guide book now.

In reply to Martin Bennett:

youre right, I'm thinking of Venus

In reply to Martin Bennett:

Many thanks Martin.
You probably just saved me from an undignified dangle.

In reply to olddirtydoggy:


There's a copy of the previous YMC Yorks Limestone guide on eBay for £3.40 buy it ow with free delivery. And the 1989 Gritstone guide on AbeBooks for about a fiver. Plenty in those to go at.