In reply to jcw:
> I think it is very Important for a guide to build a good rapport with a client so as to know just what he/she can and cannot be relied on.
I think one insidious problem which I was partly trying to warn Tom against, was that as the technical standards required to qualify as a guide get ever more demanding, some of the work can be quite mundane. So they think (with some justification),that they are super Alpine hotshots, how can they be asked to take naive punters up the normal route on Mont Blanc du Tacul? But that is often their bread and butter, and I suspect that in places like Chamonix, the young junior guides get lumbered with this sort of mundane baby-sitting routes, while the more experienced and senior get the more challenging, interesting routes, with competent and experienced clients. Certainly that used to be the case, and one particular incident strongly reinforced the view that it still is.
I had in mind an incident on Mont Maudit, where I was aclimitising badly and not functioning terribly well and at the very summit was more or less physically shoved aside by a literally pushy, French guide. He then came face to face with my partner Wayne, 6' 4" and never the most mild-mannered of people, who had very clearly seen this performance. The guide clearly thought about confronting him, but realised that Wayne was NOT going to back down and a punch-up at 4500m was really not a good idea, not least because he would probably lose.
We later found it hilariously funny when he misled his party on the descent and finished up in a dead end above some towering seracs, so he had to delicately retread his steps. This was followed by some more outrageous behaviour, which his clients didn't even seem to see how bad it was.
Obviously this is a particularly egregious example of bad behaviour, by a young, headstrong and pretty irresponsible guide. On the other hand, we were pleasantly surprised by meeting a very amenable Swiss guide this Summer, who gave us some very helpful tips for how to climb the Schreckhorn and was generally an all round nice chap. I say this despite the Swiss not being normally my favorite people, I tend to find them anal and rule-obsessed.
So perhaps guides are just like other people, some of them are fine, some are a holes, but you tend to remember the a holes more than the others, rather like a cyclist remembering the 1% of dangerous, aggressive drivers and not noticing the vast majority of perfectly well behaved ones.
Post edited at 10:58