UKC

Anyone been to mainland Greece recently? Meteora?

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 Short&Savage 07 Oct 2016
Hi there, planning to go to Greece next week. I've been to Kalymnos a few times now so thought to check out mainland Greece. Basically have a hire car from Athens sorted where we go is pretty flexible.

Thinking of checking out Meteora but anyone know what the situation is here (last post about this place is back in May) access-wise?

Also, anyone got any info on DWS around Athens at all?

Any others suggestions on where's best would be much appreciated!

Thanks!
 Garrouli 07 Oct 2016
In reply to Short&Savage:
From what I gather, its climbing as usual in Meteora. There are some really good sport climbing spots in the Trikala region too - Pili little gorge, Mouzaki.

I don't think there is any DWS in the Athens vicinity but there are loads of sport climbing and, though to a lesser extent, trad areas around Athens. There is a guidebook (surprisingly called Athens climbing guidebook!) with all the areas in. Some of the areas are really good - e.g. mavrosouvala.

P.S. Leonidio is worth checking out. 3hr drive from Athens along the coast - towards the Peloponnese.
Post edited at 13:23
OP Short&Savage 08 Oct 2016
In reply to Garrouli:
Thanks. Meteora and leonidio are probably the two places we would be interested in. Hopefully accomodation isn't that hard to find?
Post edited at 17:18
 ad111 08 Oct 2016
In reply to Short&Savage:

There are loads of campsites around Meteora. The place is beautiful but the climbing is grim. It's crappy run-out conglomerate. But hey, I hear some people love it/that kind of thing! + There is plenty of good limestone nearby!
1
 Dave Cundy 08 Oct 2016
In reply to ad111:

Cobblers. Yes, it is run-out but so is Tuolumne Meadows and no-one calls that crap. It just takes a few days to get your head into gear. Same as most places. I really liked it but my greek climbing partner (who is more at home on bolts) was rattled by the exposure and vagueness of some of the routes. He pulled a block out while seconding which didn't help.

Go there but don't expect to climb at your normal grade. Its more about micro navigation than cranking it out at your limit.
 ad111 09 Oct 2016
In reply to Mostro:

Thinking back I think my issue was less the gear and more the rock quality. The stones you're climbing on are barely attached the rest of the crag by a thin layer of crumbly mud. I managed to pull out (touch lightly and watch tumble to the ground) quite a few rocks that initially looked to be some of the more stable ones. Also the gear depends wildly on the route with the more popular ones having regular and new looking bolts and the less traveled ones having bolts that just lift out of the "rock" every 20-30m. I really hate belaying on terrible bolts.

Anyway, I only spent 4 or 5 days there so I can't really say I know that much about it and I definitely don't regret going - the place is just incredible.
 Garrouli 09 Oct 2016
In reply to ad111:

For sure some of the less travelled routes are best avoided in Meteora, but the more popular classics are far less loose and minging. The bolting is definitely a bit sporting on a lot of the routes but there are some, especially the newer routes which are better bolted. I think it's a matter of choosing your routes wisely and you will have a great time.

Lots of accomodation in leonidio and there is the campsite in Meteora.
OP Short&Savage 09 Oct 2016
In reply to Garrouli:
Thanks for all the advice, in your opinion is it worth taking a small amount of trad gear at all for meteora? i.e a set of wires?

Also any campsite better than the other?
Post edited at 15:08
 jimtitt 09 Oct 2016
In reply to Short&Savage:

I´ ve never really seen anywhere you´ d put gear in and trust it, dyneema slings and finger tape to hold them in place gives some psychological help sometimes. It´ s sure an acquired taste there, 20m groundfalls aren´ t out of the question and the somewhat unreliable state of some of the rock adds to the frisson.
Normal place to camp is Vrachos in Kastraki directly under the cliffs.
The weather can be astoundingly bad, the situation behind the mountains means it gets a fair battering there and the rain and low cloud hangs around for ages. If it rains there´ s limestone sport down the road a bit.

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