UKC

I would be grateful if someone could direct me to an article from some time ago which gave advice for those going to the Alps for the first time. I think it recommended quality easier routes close to Chamonix which didn't have the issues of approach, altitude, commitment etc. Would also appreciate any other links for those planning to go for their first summer alpine trip.

In reply to Mike Conlon:


Completely unhelpful I know, but why are you going to the alps if these factors are "issues"!?

In reply to MG:

Much as I appreciate MG's enormously helpful response, input from lesser mortals would be equally appreciated.

In reply to Mike Conlon:
Petite Verte accessed from the Montets.
Cosmiques from the Midi.
Frison Roche on the Brevent.

Commitment is low for all options with cable car access. Approach for Petite Verte and Cosmiques is on crevassed terrain and the Cosmiques is obviously at altitude; 3842m.

As has been said above, you're severely limiting your options if altitude, approach and commitment are all red lines for you.

In reply to Mike Conlon:

This book by Bruce Goodlad is an excellent place to start:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Alpine-Mountaineering-Essential-Knowledge-Alpinist...

In reply to Lamb:

Thanks for your advice. There is a bit of misunderstanding here, the article I was enquiring about refered to routes limiting the "issues" mentioned. At no point did I suggest these things could be avoided or not part of the alpine experience.

In reply to Mike Conlon:

Alps are much bigger than Chamonix mate expand your horizons a bit theres literally a whole mountain range to go at

In reply to Mike Conlon:

Not sure which article you're refering too, maybe this one? http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6372

If you're dead set on Chamonix then the Aiguille Rouges are tailor made for the sort of thing you're on about. I've not done much there but the NE arete of the Perseverance was brilliant and had a fairly alpine feel compared to other routes Ive done in the Aiguilles Rouge which were either v crowded on felt like cragging.

Also from personal experience the Saas Valley is a great place to start for summer alpinism. Routes on the Dri Hornli and Jegihorn are low altitude (relatively), pretty free from objective danger, just above a hut for the former, and easily accessible by lift in the latter. The Portjengrat traverse is a brilliant next step up if those first routes go well, plus there's some fairly low commitment 4000-ers in the valley; the Allalinhorn is a short glacial walk from the high lift, and the Nadelhorn is a straightforward snow climb, albeit with a long approach to the hut.

Others I know have done good routes in the Arolla valley when starting out, plus further East the Bregaglia has some low commitment/danger rock routes to get started on (eg Spazzacaldera)...

To balance out the posters shooting you down for being concerned about objective danger/altitude etc, I'd say those are very legitimate concerns, especially if you have no experience, and it's worth doing some routes to get you used to the environment/need to move fast etc before you venture onto bigger and more committing things.

In reply to tebs:

Thank you for all of that tebs although helpful as it is, that wasn't the article I was thinking of. I will spend some autumn nights researching your suggestions. Take care and thanks again.