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ARTICLE: Living and Dreaming in Chamonix

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 UKC Articles 11 Oct 2016
Peter Riley arriving at the top of the Aiguille Verte after climbing the Moine Ridge (AD+). From the Rockfax., 4 kbThe biggest experiences of my life have almost all been in the Chamonix Valley, with very few exceptions. These mountains shaped me physically and emotionally in a way I could never have anticipated.

As the Rockfax guidebook to Chamonix Valley hits outdoor shops and doormats in the coming weeks, main author Charlie Boscoe reflects on his life and climbs in this atmospheric hub of skiing, alpinism and adventure - or as he describes it, 'the greatest mountain valley on Earth.'



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 Valkyrie1968 11 Oct 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Interesting, in that there is worthwhile content here - someone's heartfelt description of Chamonix and the climbing there, even if it's ham-fistedly sentimental at times - but it rather seems like the whole thing was simply a vehicle for the 'Sponsored Link' at the bottom, a way of disguising what turns out, at its end, to essentially be an advertorial. Why not simply put up a press release announcing that the Chamonix guide is out and publish this separately, rather than adulterate it with the foul stench of advertising?
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 Robert Durran 11 Oct 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:
> "greatest mountain valley on earth"

I can think quite a few valleys that might take serious issue with that claim! I mean, one side of the valley is little more than foothills for a start.
Post edited at 11:57
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 Rob Parsons 11 Oct 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

I'm confused. The article says:

"I haven't actually been on top of the Drus and the Grand Jorasses - those are elsewhere, shrouded in mystery, conquered only by men much tougher and better than me. "

but https://charlieboscoe.wordpress.com/about/ says:

"Over 75 technical routes in the European Alps, including ... Grandes Jorasses Tronchey Ridge ... Traverse of Les Drus ..."
Post edited at 12:02
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 Alex Riley 11 Oct 2016
In reply to Rob Parsons:

I think he is talking abstractly rather than literally.
In reply to Alex Riley:

> I think he is talking abstractly rather than literally.

But the claims in the wordpress link that Rob has provided seem 100% concrete, and contradict what he says here, where he describes himself as a 'desk jockey'.
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 Mike Highbury 11 Oct 2016
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
> But the claims in the wordpress link that Rob has provided seem 100% concrete, and contradict what he says here, where he describes himself as a 'desk jockey'.

Perhaps more accurately the footer says, 'He used to lead expeditions for a living but a series of injuries turned him into a desk jockey.'
 Alex Riley 11 Oct 2016
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Of course he climbed the routes... As far as I understand he is talking about how the reality of the routes was in a way detached and incomparable to those he had read of as a "yoof".
In reply to Alex Riley:

I suppose that's what he means. I was misled by the way he jumped to the present tense there.
 Shapeshifter 11 Oct 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Got home from work yesterday and found one of those Post Office "we've tried to deliver a parcel, but you weren't in so we've taken in back to the sorting office" cards. I was a bit annoyed, as I was expecting something from Amazon and had clearly put on the order to leave with a neighbour if I wasn't in. But when I collected it on the way to work today, I was well chuffed to find it was my Chamonix Rockfax pre-order.

Initial impressions are this a really good looking guide, with loads of additional information to help route finding, especially on the more popular routes and if you are like me, an old fart who is still using the old Alpine Club and Piola guides, there is so much clarity around route descriptions it is like discovering the area for the first time.

Combining the mountain alpine routes, with mountain rock, valley cragging and bouldering gives this the feel of the new Chamonix Bumper Fun Book.

Can't wait to get back to Cham and well done to Charlie Boscoe and Jack Geldard the authors.

And no I'm nothing to do with UKC or Rockfax....very much a punter.
 zimpara 23 Oct 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:
Question, How come there are only 45 routes in the Chamonix Top 50 climbs? And yes I've counted them from the book several times to rule out my incompetence I haven't counted the North Wales top 50, is that short on routes too?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1696


It's also interesting to see that no routes from the Aiguilles Rouge got into the top 45. Pure Alpinism. And I can see why.
Nice one
Post edited at 12:09
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 jsmcfarland 23 Oct 2016
In reply to zimpara:

it's well known that the top 50's don't actually have to add up to 50..
 Simon4 23 Oct 2016
In reply to jsmcfarland:

I recall a presentation of the 20 rules for delivering great software, on time and within budget.

There were 23 of them!

But it was produced by Microsoft.
In reply to zimpara:

> Question, How come there are only 45 routes in the Chamonix Top 50 climbs? And yes I've counted them from the book several times to rule out my incompetence I haven't counted the North Wales top 50, is that short on routes too?

I get 46 - not sure which one you have missed but thanks for compiling that tick list.

The Top50s usually have more than 50 routes but in this case the base number of routes wasn't that great however, had I bothered to count them before publishing, I would probably have chucked another 4 in TBH.

Alan
 zimpara 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

> I get 46 - not sure which one you have missed but thanks for compiling that tick list.

> Alan

No problem, figured that would be my only path to fame. I'll have a recount and amend it.
 Rob Parsons 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

> ... had I bothered to count them ... I would probably have chucked another 4 in ...

I love the enthusiasm and dedication to detail which that statement displays!
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 zimpara 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Rob Parsons:

Have you got the guide?

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