In reply to AlanLittle:
> As I understand it the first free ascent of the Salathe had a hanging belay in what was originally the middle of a longer pitch, which was improved upon by subsequent teams (Hubers? Yuji?) doing the original long pitch in a oner without the hanging belay.
It's slightly more complicated than that! In the route's original form there are three Headwall pitches between the belay just beneath the guardian roof [atop a long groove above Sous Le Toit Ledge] and Long Ledge at the top of the Headwall. The first of these crosses the roof to a standing position just above the lip, then climbs a short flared groove before moving left to a belay in the adjacent [main] crack system. The second climbs the crack to a belay in a roofed niche. The third, fairly short, continues up the mostly thinner crack above to the left end of Long Ledge. Presumably to ease the problem of leading the initial 5.13a groove with the belayer out of sight beneath the roof and the rope dragging over it, Piana and Skinner established a new belay at the standing position - a "natural stance", in other words - just above the lip. They didn't place any bolts for this but relied on whatever natural placements were available; I don't think that these would have been brilliant, possibly making the initial groove quite spooky. After the groove they used the existing hanging belay in the main crack; they beefed this up by adding bolts. I have a vague recollection that, although none were placed there on the first ascent, bolts of some kind had appeared by the time Piana and Skinner were up there - in which case they would have been undertaking the common task on a wall of replacing old bolts with new ones. But I could be wrong; I simply vaguely recall a bolt being part of that belay a few years earlier. [To put this in context: only 12 or 13 bolts were placed on the first ascent, all on the lower "Freeblast" section; modern topos now show bolts at most of the belays throughout the route.] From that point they continued to Long Ledge in the existing two more pitches. Alex Huber used the new stance on the lip, to which he added bolts, then climbed in one pitch to the belay in the roofed niche - thereby eliminating the hanging belay just after the groove. He was able to establish the niche belay's "non-hanging" status by achieving some sort of hands-off position with his feet jammed in the crack at the back/top - the ability to take a "hands-off rest" being the crucial distinction; not very restful, I would imagine, but sufficient to satisfy his requirement that a proper redpoint ascent cannot involve any hanging belays - thus making his style of ascent purer than that of Piana and Skinner. To be fair, though: at the time of Huber's ascent a normal rope length wouldn't have been enough to get from the lip belay to Long Ledge in one pitch; he had to stop somewhere! Hirayama ticked that particular box a few years later by using a 70m rope - thereby eliminating both Headwall belays. Sometime after the Piana/Skinner ascent a protection bolt was added towards the top of the initial Headwall groove - thus reducing the chance of a fall onto the belay; it appears to be unclear whether or not this was also added by Huber.