UKC

Hi everyone,
as the weather cools and we head towards winter, the only place to climb will be down south. So will someone please repeat me little route: Wonderland (E1 5c)
as I'd really like to confirm the grades on UKC.

Go on, get the second assent of a 67 pitch E1.

Thanks and all the best.

In reply to David Coley:

I'm keen (perhaps even for a single push), just need to find someone equally unhinged with some spare time

In reply to David Coley:

Where is the Topo/decent description?

In reply to zimpara:


Hi, download it from my website: http://multipitchclimbing.com

In reply to Alex Riley:


Cool, well who is going to take Alex up. (I would recommend you being able to climb E3 if you fancy doing it in a single push.)

In reply to David Coley:

... bit cruel how there are over 50 pitches before you get to the crux pitch ...

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

However, standing on one wire will get you through the crux move, and I'm kind of hoping someone will do it and say something like, "call that 5c? T'would only be 5a in Peak" as it was dark when I did it.

In reply to David Coley:

A sense of adventure and a non trivial degree of fitness I would suggest ! Not sure how accurate the term 'ascent' here is either

In reply to David Coley:
Looks really interesting!

You page looks good too - I will have to have a look when I have more time. By the way, the 'David's Big Wall Tips' link does not work (having just returned from Yosemite I was interested to see these!).

In reply to David Coley:

So up for this. Just recruited a mate and set a date to go and have a look... In early November o.o Hope you're telling the truth about it not being so cold!

Reckon we'll go for the single push.

In reply to MischaHY:

ye gunna die

In reply to zimpara:

My favourite kind of day out.

In reply to MischaHY:

Don't try too hard







(Best of luck really)

In reply to David Coley:

I'm guessing this is the only route in the country that has a guidebook all to itself. Looks like it needs it.

I can attest to the claim that Boulder Ruckle is the warmest winter crag in the country. I once climbed there on Christmas day wearing only a shorts and vest.

In reply to David Coley:

Going Scotland in December but if the weather doesnt play nice this is a bloody good back up plan

In reply to David Coley:

Why does it go from E1 to E3 for doing it all at once?

In reply to Frank the Husky:

Few grades in hand might to keep things smooth when you have 67 pitches to climb?

In reply to Alex Riley: That's exactly my point. The route should be given E3, because that's what the grade is about - to show how tough a route is for the complete ascent.

In reply to Frank the Husky:

The majority of the pitches are not e1 though, I do see what you are mean however.

In reply to Alex Riley: It looks like a ridiculous adventure - one for a long day in June. Well done to Mr Coley and Co!

In reply to David Coley:

Would one of these be useful on it? http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/competition.php?id=8754

In reply to Frank the Husky:


Good question. Starting from the premise that most grading systems in climbing use as their basis a scale which declares the fraction of the climbing population that can climb a route (i.e. that if only 1 in 10 climb can climb route A, but 3 in 10 can climb route B, then route A is harder than route B), many climber can do wonderland over several weekends, but far fewer in one day, so we have two different grades.

Looking at who of my 12 partners fell off during the first ascent, and what it felt like to me, we came up with E1. But I can't imagine an E1 climber could do it in a day, hence the E3. It will be interesting to see who does it in a day and what grade they climb.

In reply to David Coley:

Sounds like Grade VI to me!

In reply to David Coley:

Adam climbs around E2/3, I a little harder. We shall see what we think! I distinctly look forward to the experience and have my fingers tightly crossed for good weather.

In reply to Alex Riley:

Hi Alex. Id do this with you. Free from 5th Nov till the 28th. Live and climb in Swanage so know the rock and area really well. It was on my summer ticklist, and as Im about to move from the area Id love to get it done. Message me. Im VERY keen.

In reply to stp:

No. That's Brean or Ansteys Cove on a sunny day.

Good luck to the would be one dayers. 67 pitches when the days are short... on the Ruckle...

In reply to Cusco:



To be fair, it can be done in 30 odd pitches - I was climbing with a 12 year old, so had to keep them in sight.

In reply to David Coley:

Jerome, sent you a message.

In reply to Cusco:

Interesting. Love to get to both places, maybe this winter then?

In reply to Frank the Husky:
Could an E1 climber climb 30 single pitches of E1 in a day? Probably not. Could they climb that many Vdiffs? They'd have a much better chance, surely.