UKC

Hi, based in Arco for a week for a last minute climbing trip. There seems to be a lot of climbing but research tells me much of it is very polished.

Hoping for some reccomendations on crags or routes or via ferrata.

We will probably do 3 days of climbing and a couple of via ferratas and some walks so keen not to waste time on uninspiring routes.

Have 20 qd's, 2x 60m ropes and a set of wires and slings for just incase. Have a car too and happy to drive for worthwhile routes. Happy on 6's, could rp low 7's but some nice 5 pitch fully bolted 6a's would be nice

Cheers for any help!
Chris

In reply to Chriswallis2:

Some of the 'older' crags are pretty polished (Massone, Nago etc) but they do keep digging out new stuff

The Plache Zebrata might fit the bill for nice, slabby, multi-pitch. If you are willing to travel just a little bit then La Gola is good as is San Siro for relatively quiet single pitch.

The VF up Cima Colodri is pleasant for a short trip (stroll from the Rock Master wall and finish with ice-creams back in town) with nice views but not very challenging.

There is quite an interesting walk above Rovereto on Monte Baldo (I think) which takes you through all the old Italian trenches and dugouts.

In reply to Andy Say:

La gola is good, if you drive a bit further Val d'algone is excellent and a good option on hot days

In reply to Chriswallis2:

pretty good multipitch sport in the 6a-7a range at parete san paolo, just a few minutes drive from the arco campsite upriver and very short approachand easy descent. an other really good route is pilastro gabrielli in mandrea ( small valley behind monte colodri , 5-10 min drive from arco campsite). the approach up a ramp/ couloir and the first pitch are a bit unpleasant but then superb climbing, one of the best

In reply to Chriswallis2:

If you want to avoid polish then you need the newer crags - looking carefully at the holds in the guidebook photos helps . We found the crags just north and east of Torbole to be 'acceptably polished', although they weren't anything spectacular (we operated in the 5+/6a range.) Punta Corno Di Bo, the big slab over the tunnel at the edge of the lake was good if you like padding slabs.

Happy on 6's, could rp low 7's but some nice 5 pitch fully bolted 6a's would be nice
You need to head north up towards Sarche for the big MP routes, but many have sections of aid amongst an otherwise sensible route.

VF - you're a couple of hour's drive from the Brenta Dolomites if you want classic VF (although the cablecars & huts won't be open and snow could stop play), otherwise the best 2 we did near Arco were Rio Sallagoni (at night), and Via Dell Amicizia.

In reply to Chriswallis2:

Talking 16 years ago. Ssooo polished. But the trad crag where Martin Atkinson won his world cup round was not polished.
Jimb.

In reply to Chriswallis2:

Arco has 21 climbing shops, numerous pizzarias, and more ice cream parlours than you could wish for.

All sell the area guide, most have it in English: Arco Rock which has 113 crags. The older crags are super polished, but many away from Arco are no worse than any other European sports crag.

There are also VF guides, multi pitch sport guides, trad guides etc, etc.

It's quite a place.

Steve