UKC

top 10 VS 4c on Grit

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 Paul Hy 26 Oct 2016
whats your top 10 VS 4c on Grit?
i've got (not necessary in order)
Mississippi Crack Direct
Altar Crack
Gargoyle Flake
Quien Sabe
Hargreaves Original
Martello Buttress
High Neb Buttress
Obscenity
Central Climb (Hen Cloud)
The Mall
 Mark Bannan 26 Oct 2016
In reply to Paul Hy:

My favourite of the ones I did was Count's Crack.
 Andy Hardy 26 Oct 2016
In reply to Paul Hy:

What about plum line at Running Hill Pits?

Or The File at Higgar?
 Chris the Tall 26 Oct 2016
In reply to Paul Hy:

Birch Tree Wall - Brimham
Apple Arete - Gardoms
OP Paul Hy 26 Oct 2016
In reply to Andy Hardy:

its on my list to do!
 SenzuBean 26 Oct 2016
In reply to Paul Hy:

The Mall? That one was horrid! Pop on Valkyrie at the Roaches instead - way better.

Also +1 to The File. Fern Crack is pretty nice as well.
OP Paul Hy 26 Oct 2016
In reply to Chris the Tall:

Not been to Brimham so will add it to the To Do list. Apple arete is already on it.
OP Paul Hy 26 Oct 2016
In reply to SenzuBean:

depends if you like laybacks suppose!! How did i miss Valkyrie???? ok strike-off The Mall and add Valkyrie.
1
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 26 Oct 2016
In reply to Paul Hy:

Something from Black Rocks?


Chris
In reply to Chris Craggs:

I think Lean Man's Superdirect is a great route.
 Lemony 26 Oct 2016
In reply to Paul Hy:

Birch Tree Wall, Pllar Rib, Walewska, Central Climb (Almscliff), Tiger Wall
 BnB 26 Oct 2016
In reply to Paul Hy:
Allan's Crack, Rough Wall and Right Hand Crack at Brimham are all superb. In fact Brimham is brilliant at VS

Also Nozag at Castle Naze sticks in the memory, as does Central Climb at Almscliff (for the pump!!)

At Ilkley, try S Crack as well as the above mentioned Walewska. It's more sustained.

Edit Rough Wall is 5a (as is S Crack, whatever the guidebook grade)
Post edited at 13:41
 GrahamD 26 Oct 2016
In reply to Paul Hy:

As well as loads of great suggestions I'll add Phoenix at Shining Clough. Way longer than your average grit VS.
 Baron Weasel 26 Oct 2016
In reply to Paul Hy:

S Crack
The File
In reply to Paul Hy:

I'd include Samarkand (VS 5a) on my list, were I ever to write one.

I will admit to a bias, as it was my first VS lead. Good route though and if it were at, say, Millstone I suspect it would be (even) better known. Good job it isn't, then.

T.
 gribble 26 Oct 2016
In reply to Paul Hy:

The File is a must, Batchelor's Climb at Hen Cloud is my preferred VS, maybe swap Obscenity for Hawk Nest Crack at Froggatt? Or just make the list top 50!
 Wayne S 26 Oct 2016
In reply to Paul Hy:

Great list, I would put forward for consideration:
Great Harry (VS 4c)
Excalibur (VS 4c)
Sand Buttress (VS 4c)
Lean Man's Climb (VS 5a)
Amber ArĂȘte (VS 4c)
Wall End Slab (VS 5a)
Titanic (VS 4c)

Some of the above are lesser known gems.

PS you can't have Martello......it's HS!

Wayne
 alan moore 26 Oct 2016
In reply to Paul Hy:

Birch tree wall, brimham
Birch tree wall, black rocks
Black slab, stanage
High neb buttress
Tower face, laddow
Inverted V
The Crank
Valkyrie

And when I do them The File at Higgar and Phoenix, Shining Clough
 rlrs 26 Oct 2016
In reply to Paul Hy:

At least worthy of a mention, Himmelswillen (VS 4c).
1
Lusk 26 Oct 2016
In reply to Andy Hardy:

> What about plum line at Running Hill Pits?

One of my all time favourites, done with only 3 different hexes ... but in which order?!

 Dale Berry 26 Oct 2016
In reply to Paul Hy:

Paul

The 2 obvious Stanage contenders for me aside (Hargreave's Original & Mississippi Buttress Direct), Titanic is certainly a less travelled contender for me.

Valkyrie at the Roaches is definite shoe in, even if it's really HVS. As already pointed out Martello Buttress is only HS all be it a Very hard one.

Looking north to Yorkshire, Right- Hand Crack at Brimham & Pillar Rib at Eastby are fine, fine routes. Birch Tree Wall at Brimham is also worthy of mention in the same breath if led on sight.

Of routes I am yet to climb I would hope Phoenix Climb at Shining Clough and ArĂȘte Direct at Simon's Seat would slot in as well.
 LakesWinter 26 Oct 2016
In reply to Paul Hy:
Altar Crack
File
Obscenity
Black Slab - Stanage
Rough Wall - Brimham
Extinguisher Chimney - Kinder
Fern Crack
Birch Tree Wall - Black Rocks
Central Climb - Almscliff
Quien Sabe - Bamford

Rejected ones!
High Neb Buttress - short crux in the middle of much easier climbing, although it is historic...
Titanic, love this route but not long or sustained enough
Wall End Slab, again, love it but a bit samey and nowhere near as good as Hargreaves/Black Slab
Valkyrie, Roaches. Crap pitch 1 and the climbing on p2 just isn't that good, it's just a bit of weird shuffling, albeit in a great situation.
Post edited at 00:02
In reply to Paul Hy:

I haven't done anything on Grit.
2
 CurlyStevo 27 Oct 2016
In reply to Paul Hy:

Most have been done but Via Dolorosa and Bachelor's Climb are worth a mention
 TobyA 27 Oct 2016
In reply to rlrs:

Nice route but it's not actually grit is it?
 Tom Last 27 Oct 2016
In reply to Paul Hy:

Can you get rid of Gargoyle Flake? It photographs well, but just isn't that great.
 BnB 27 Oct 2016
In reply to Tom Last:

> Can you get rid of Gargoyle Flake? It photographs well, but just isn't that great.

Agreed. Nondescript start, the layoff from the big flake is easier than expected and the top out over all too soon. Too many rests to feel like a proper challenge.


 Paul Clarke 27 Oct 2016
In reply to Paul Hy:

Check out Thunder Crack at Ash Head if you want something very good and out of the way. Tough for the grade though!
OP Paul Hy 27 Oct 2016
In reply to Paul Hy:

Well thanks everyone. What started out as my top 10 of ones I've done has now lengthened my To Do list and of places to visit, esp North Yorks crags. There's some that I've done that you like that didn't make my top 10. Different horses and all that!!
 GrahamD 27 Oct 2016
In reply to Paul Hy:

Apparantly there is a marriage offer on the table if you manage 100 VS leads
OP Paul Hy 27 Oct 2016
In reply to GrahamD:

> Apparantly there is a marriage offer on the table if you manage 100 VS leads

went past that total long time ago and besides been married for 20+ years!!

 rlrs 27 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

I can't find a definitive reference, perhaps it is considered more of a sandstone?

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