UKC Forums - NEWS: Nalle Hukkataival talks 9A

NEWS: Nalle Hukkataival talks 9A

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UKC News 26 Oct 2016

Nalle Hukkataival talks about why he decided to give Burden of Dreams the unprecedented grade of 9A.

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Michael Gordon 26 Oct 2016

In reply to UKC News:

Well argued. Perhaps you could ask him for an example list of some of the top problems with his own opinion of 8C or 8C+ alongside?

stp 26 Oct 2016

In reply to Michael Gordon:

I'm guessing Lucid Dreaming might well be 8c+ given that it took Alex Megos 11 days to do.

Nalle's Livin' Large in Rocklands has to be another contender for 8c+ I'd have thought.

Woods' Defying Gravity (Colorado) maybe?

Hypnotized Minds is already 8c+. As is The Process but a hold broke.

Nalle's Bügeleisen Sit Start.

Gioia.

Must be some more...

Michael Hood 26 Oct 2016

In reply to UKC News:
It's interesting to see that Font grades at the top are suffering the same problem that happened to UK tech grades at the 6b/6c/7a level. Lets hope they sort it out before it becomes as fixed and difficult a problem.

Post edited at 21:54

Michael Gordon 26 Oct 2016

In reply to Michael Hood:

Some sort of 'numberitis' when no-one wants to suggest the next number? Definitely wasn't a problem for E grades...

SenzuBean 26 Oct 2016

In reply to Michael Gordon:

> Definitely wasn't a problem for E grades...

Leave James alone!

treesrockice 26 Oct 2016

In reply to Michael Hood:

> It's interesting to see that Font grades at the top are suffering the same problem that happened to UK tech grades at the 6b/6c/7a level. Lets hope they sort it out before it becomes as fixed and difficult a problem.

True! And people seem to adapt it to french sport at the top end now

matt davies 26 Oct 2016

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Maybe James pearson needs to start hard cutting edge bouldering haha

owensum 27 Oct 2016

In reply to stp:

Story of Two Worlds low start (Dai Koyamada)

Terranova (!)

Shantaram? (Zangerl)

Michael Gordon 27 Oct 2016

In reply to matt davies:

I'm guessing that was a joke (!) but he does seem to be focusing more on sport the last few years.

Puppythedog 27 Oct 2016

In reply to matt davies:

You are joking?

Puppythedog 27 Oct 2016

In reply to UKC News:

I would love for there to bea council of elders (top climby dudes) and for them to upgrade some of the problems like Nalle suggests. Would be interesting to know what would be on their list. Some good suggestions so far. I think Adam Ondra put up an 8C+ is that on anyone's list?

AlanLittle 27 Oct 2016

In reply to puppythedog:

Well, user "jgill" did pop up on the supertopo thread with the observation that the scale "hard - very hard - really hard" was tried and found wanting.

If he doesn't qualify as a bouldering Elder I don't know who does.

Lemony 27 Oct 2016

In reply to AlanLittle:

That's a bit like having SaulOfTarsus pop up on a theological thread.

Michael Gordon 27 Oct 2016

In reply to AlanLittle:

> Well, user "jgill" did pop up on the supertopo thread with the observation that the scale "hard - very hard - really hard" was tried and found wanting.
>

that's because he forgot 'desperate'