UKC

I admit that I like the graphs and am happy when my average grade equals the overall average (won't this year). Two things intrigue me:

Is the progression from grade to grade linear for the purpose of calculating averages, e.g., mod1, diff 2, vdiff 3, hvdiff4, s 5, hs 6, vs 7, hvs 8, etc?

What is th average hardest grade? The overall hardest grade might be interesting to a dozen people, but for most the average might be more interested.

Cheers

In reply to Fruit:
Question a) I think is a good question . The answer will be subjective . For Uk trad grades ignoring the E, yes , up to about 6a for me, then exponential beyond . For sport yes up to about 7a , then exponential beyond .
Question .b) I think you need need to rephrase the question .
Edit : dogging boy of this parish has an interesting take on this and ma be along to explain his mathematical analysis of grade progression .

In reply to Fruit:

I have wondered about this a couple of times as well. I'm not sure that the mean is particularly useful here as, for example, an E7 climber taking a beginner up a few diffs and logging them would have a huge effect on their batting average.

Median and mode might be more useful values to display, although they do take a bit more effort to calculate.

In reply to Fruit:

Hi Fruit

Don't you need to differentiate between hardest average led against hardest average as a second/top rope? There may be a difference, although not necessarily.

Tim

In reply to davidbeynon:


That's my excuse for only averaging VS.

In reply to Fruit:
I just ran some numbers on my logbook.

This year I have logged 34 routes:

1x E1
5x hvs
7x vs
8x hs
6x s
1x hvd
2x vd
3x d
1x m

The UKC page says my average grade is HS.

Assuming mod is 1, then I get a mean grade of 5.67, which rounds up to 6, or HS.

If I go for the median then I also get HS, but at the high end. I would need to do 4 more routes at VS or above to push it to VS.

The mode is also HS, but one more VS or 2 more severes would move it. It gets less useful as you add options of course.

So not really enough information to tell but I would guess at mean.

In reply to davidbeynon:
That at least backs up my suspicions.

Just did mine 4.9. Sev. VDiff is a tough score for our average it seems as HVDiff and HS seem to punish it with full steps for half grades

Although, just run it with HVD and HS as half grades and guess what, same score mean and median Sev.

Was fun to check