UKC

Cheers guys! Suggestions welcome. Well protected routes

In reply to Oogachooga:

Rob
Have a look at Hell Gates and Suspension Bridge Direct. Then maybe Limbo.
Also Malbogies and Great Central Route. Maybe not Mikes Mistake. (Hint)
Have fun.
Chris

In reply to Oogachooga:

Assuming you are familiar with Avon climbing and style, there are quite a large number of really good routes with good protection. Suspension Bridge Buttress is a good place to start. Suspension buttress arete, suspense, Hell gates and Limbo are all great. At the other end of the gorge, M1 is great. I like Simian and Jasper too although they are polished. I'm sure others will have plenty of recommendations as well.

In reply to Oogachooga:

Suspension bridge arete and suspense are awesome HVS routes with bomb proof protection through out.

Jasper is a polished mess! The first 5/6m are hard to protect too! Would have been an amazing route 60 years ago

There are some very safe/soft touch HVS routes at portishead quarry too

In reply to Oogachooga:

Good suggestions above, though I thought limbo was hard (but very good). M1 is great. Bonbogies is OK. Great Central Route is good, there is gear for the hard moves but it's bold on p2 though much easier climbing. For something a bit different and not a spot of polish, the newly cleaned Jose Dansack on the north buttress of the suspension bridge is great, steep but well protected.

On the other hand, not central buttress, a great experience but no gear.

In reply to Angrypenguin:

Second jose dansack. That route is fantastic and very well protected apart from the last section. The rock is a bit suspect but much easier climbing

In reply to Oogachooga:

Routes listed already maybe more "classic".

However, seem to recall enjoying "The Lich" - One of my first HVS leads in Avon.

The Lich (HVS 5a)

Simon...

In reply to Oogachooga:

Most of the 'classics' fit the bill mate. Particularly on suspension bridge

In reply to Oogachooga:

I seem to recall Desecrator on Unknown Wall as being well protected (HVS). It was certainly excellent anyway.