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NEWS: Revelations 8b by 11 year-old Toby Roberts

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 UKC News 01 Nov 2016
Toby Roberts on his way to ticking Revelations 8b, 4 kb11 year-old Guildford-based climber Toby Roberts has ticked Revelations 8b at Raven Tor, just one year after redpointing his first 8a - the classic Raindogs at Malham Cove.

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 stp 01 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Fantastic effort. Youngest Brit to have climbed 8b?
 planetmarshall 01 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Yeah but what's he.....




just kidding.
6
 Coel Hellier 01 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Well that's rather impressive!

Translating. When it says: "Apparently Revelations is a 7c route on top of a 7c boulder problem ..." does that mean "Apparently Revelations is a 7c route on top of a 7C boulder problem" or does no-one bother with that convention any more? If not, isn't that even more confusing? (This not aimed at anyone in particular.)

I like his blog:
"What do you like about working sport routes?"
"I just like getting to the top"
4
 Paul B 01 Nov 2016
In reply to Coel Hellier:

Someone recently pointed out to me that the a vs A convention isn't even used in the Font guides so it's maybe not 'widely accepted' (in the loosest of terms).
 UKB Shark 01 Nov 2016
In reply to Paul B:

It should be a convention in the U.K. to prevent confusion with English tech grades especially when used for describing routes. I was responsible for that description inPeak guidebook despite having never tried it.

Paul Reeve was describing the sequence Toby used to me today which included holds I wasn't even aware of. Jim Pope was remarkably short to do it let alone Toby. Unlikely to be 7C the way he did it. Stu Littlefair (Midgets oftheWorld Unite) of Rainshadow fame still hasn't done it but can no longer play the reach card.



 deacondeacon 01 Nov 2016
In reply to Coel Hellier:

> Well that's rather impressive!

> Translating. When it says: "Apparently Revelations is a 7c route on top of a 7c boulder problem ..." does that mean "Apparently Revelations is a 7c route on top of a 7C boulder problem" or does no-one bother with that convention any more? If not, isn't that even more confusing? (This not aimed at anyone in particular.)

That's a pet hate of mine too.

Well done Toby, smashed it!



 Shapeshifter 02 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Top effort youth. I remember the days when it had to be climbed with your tongue out.....

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/111137318

but then it was all just fields....!
 GrahamD 02 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Blimey how does anyone get that good so young ? especially living in Guildford !
 UKB Shark 02 Nov 2016
In reply to Shapeshifter:

> Top effort youth. I remember the days when it had to be climbed with your tongue out.....


Great photo. Ron was someone who also had to improvise on the start to do this, due to his fat sausage fingers, somehow coming in from the left - something thats not been repeated.

The boulder problem start has become harder since the first ascent due to a pocket getting worse (from misguided blowtorching BITD IIRC).
 joem 02 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Well I may as well just hang up my rock shoes now.
1
 jon 02 Nov 2016
In reply to ukb shark:

> The boulder problem start has become harder since the first ascent due to a pocket getting worse (from misguided blowtorching BITD IIRC).

Wasn't it Sika-ed at some stage?

 UKB Shark 02 Nov 2016
In reply to jon:

> Wasn't it Sika-ed at some stage?


Yes - but that was to plug the back of the pocket to prevent seepage rather than restore or improve the hold.
 simes303 02 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

I thought Revelations was 8a, the first one, by Moffatt.
Has it been upgraded or has a hold broken?
 UKB Shark 02 Nov 2016
In reply to simes303:

> I thought Revelations was 8a, the first one, by Moffatt.

> Has it been upgraded or has a hold broken?

Initially 8a+ then latterly upgraded to borderline 8b. The deterioration of the pocket is mentioned above
 simes303 02 Nov 2016
In reply to ukb shark:

Thanks, I thought so.
Also soloed by Antoine Le Menestrel many years ago. Superb.
Si.
 Stig 02 Nov 2016
In reply to ukb shark:

Is this general awkwardness why it gets so little attention - relative to Mecca for example? I've often wondered.

Congratulations to Toby!
 winhill 02 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Absolutely stunning stuff.
 James Malloch 02 Nov 2016
In reply to ukb shark:

> Unlikely to be 7C the way he did it.

Easier or harder, out of interest?
He was looking great on it (clearly) on Sunday. A great effort by Toby.
My friend was trying it also and it looks nails!

As an aside, there was a draw in the low belay bolt down and left of the route. It was neither ours nor Toby's. Not sure if anyone else may have been trying it recently? It's one that's easy to miss/forget when leaving.
 UKB Shark 02 Nov 2016
In reply to Stig:

> Is this general awkwardness why it gets so little attention - relative to Mecca for example? I've often wondered.

Awkwardness about what? the moves? the pocket? the grade? It remains is a classic aspirational and historical tick but is very unusual for a sport route (it has a proper line for a start). And by attention do you mean ascents? or media attention?

In comparison to Mecca they are obviously a grade apart. It is also out of condition far more often than Mecca is. Often even when climbable it has wet patches that I'm sure put people off. Also if anything Mecca holds have changed even more not to mention the use of kneepads.

 UKB Shark 02 Nov 2016
In reply to James Malloch:

> Easier or harder, out of interest?

Harder obvs.

My impression is that even for those of normal stature and finger morphology 7C is conservative . The tor remains competitively graded despite the best efforts of punters like me.
Toby Roberts 02 Nov 2016

In reply to winhill

Thank you
Post edited at 12:06
 James Malloch 02 Nov 2016
In reply to ukb shark:

I assumed harder - I know he was using some awful, unused holds which his dad said he just about managed to get his fingers into. Wasn't sure how it would alter the problem.

He seemed like a nice kid with lots of psyche. Also they spoke about taking a month off hard routes given his body had probably taken a hammering whilst trying it. Seemed a sensible and well thought-out plan.

Thanks to him mum for packing our ropes away in error - saved us a job in the dark. Nice to see a supportive family there!
 RupertD 02 Nov 2016
In reply to ukb shark:
> Paul Reeve was describing the sequence Toby used to me today which included holds I wasn't even aware of. Jim Pope was remarkably short to do it let alone Toby. Unlikely to be 7C the way he did it. Stu Littlefair (Midgets oftheWorld Unite) of Rainshadow fame still hasn't done it but can no longer play the reach card.

For adults the crux is about font 7c/+ish with the normal sequence. Height/reach is also not really an issue on Revelations if you are of adult height, even if short. The difficulties revolve around using a flat, shallow pocket under a small roof that you are forced to use open-handed because the roof stops you crimping it. Thin fingers probably help, which was to my advantage when I did it and are the probable cause of Stu's problems on it. Rob Barker could do it in his trainers, I'm told. The route has become harder as the pocket has got shallower. Firstly the edge crumbled due to blowtorching it dry. Then to stop the need for blowtorching, the back of it was lined in cement/sika, reducing its depth further.

Clearly Toby is in a totally different ball park height wise to even short adults and he obviously needed a completely new sequence. A great effort.
Post edited at 12:58
 Stig 02 Nov 2016
In reply to ukb shark:

Hi Shark,

Yeah by awkwardness I meant pocket size/sika/reachiness/conditions. And the point of comparison with Mecca is that in all my visits to Tor I've never seen anyone on Rev, but nearly always someone on Mec. Of course more routes continue out of the latter. But this despite them being equal in my mind in historical stature/aspirational status, as well as the difference in difficulty.

I think, for example that there have been more female ascents of Mecca than Revelations?
 UKB Shark 02 Nov 2016
In reply to RupertD:

Thanks for extra info.


 UKB Shark 02 Nov 2016
In reply to Stig:

> Yeah by awkwardness I meant pocket size/sika/reachiness/conditions. And the point of comparison with Mecca is that in all my visits to Tor I've never seen anyone on Rev, but nearly always someone on Mec. Of course more routes continue out of the latter. But this despite them being equal in my mind in historical stature/aspirational status, as well as the difference in difficulty.

> I think, for example that there have been more female ascents of Mecca than Revelations?


Only Mina and Katy Whittaker have done Mecca though Michaela Tracey looked close. Dont know if any of them have tried Revelations.

I can understand why Mecca is a more aspirational project for anyone male or female. Central line of the crag, just as much history, bigger grade, Power Endurance oriented (better training) and the option of next grade link ups. Revelations on the other hand could see you spend days not getting more than 6 feet off the ground. Seb Grieve got the top section wired and then couldn't do the bottom move (he has fat fingers too).

Popularity also begets popularity. You see someone on a route you get excited to do the route. Always someone on Mecca and an audience who might then be inspired to give it a go. Rarely someone on Revelations. And like I said it is wet a lot of the time.

 Steve nevers 02 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Just like to say well done to the strong little fella and i'll leave all the debating to you lot.
 UKB Shark 02 Nov 2016
In reply to simes303:

> I thought Revelations was 8a, the first one, by Moffatt.

Actually you may be correct. Been doing some googling through old threads on UKB and a couple of people stated that Moffat first gave it 8a.
Old Skooled 02 Nov 2016
In reply to ukb shark:

He probably first gave it E7 6c.
 Hat Dude 03 Nov 2016
In reply to ukb shark:

> Great photo. Ron was someone who also had to improvise on the start to do this, due to his fat sausage fingers, somehow coming in from the left - something thats not been repeated.

The Clog boots probably added a grade too

I had a nice calendar with this photo in, think it may possibly have been a freebie from one of the climbing mags.

Toby Roberts 03 Nov 2016
In reply to Steve nevers:
Thank you😀
Post edited at 13:52
 stp 07 Nov 2016
In reply to ukb shark:

I thought Revelations got 8a+ initially and the name signified the jump in standards, certainly a notch up from Statement of Youth, which Jerry repeated with only 5 falls.
 stp 07 Nov 2016
In reply to Stig:

I think Revelations has a harder crux than anything on Mecca. Stopper moves tend to stop people. Also the default way to climb Mecca these days is with a kneepad that allows a hands off rest halfway up, thus lowering the difficulty significantly. Some argue it's a full grade so the difference might not be that much if anything.
 stp 07 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Video of Toby's ascent...

youtube.com/watch?v=Kuv-bpYL1UE&

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