UKC

Sorry if this is in the wrong area - I didn't want to put it in the bouldering area for fear of people not reading this from the perspective of a novice.

So, I'm lucky enough that in my new house, we have a building that I plan to use as storage and a small indoor boulder area.

The problem is, I have no idea what to put in there! It will be for my wife, kids and me
I'm no boulderer - I suck at it! So in terms of obstacles / features / routes....I'm clueless

If I was to somehow get photo's / diagrams on here, would people be willing to give me pointers on what to throw in there?

As a rough outline, I have dedicated 1 wall to a climbing area. The rest is for tools / bikes etc. It's a solid brick wall, single story (about 100 years ago was a shelter for small livestock). It's not big - about 2m height increasing to 2.7m (roughly). The wall is about 4m wide with a few features on it.

I had planned to add a stud wall sticking out to give it an L shape.......I'll put pictures up later!....it'll be easier than describing it.....

In reply to Einriba:

right, measurements are

2.0 increasing to 2.6m height, 3m wide. In the image you can see the ledge and features.

https://s4.postimg.org/h1u1fsoy5/DSC_0695.jpg

To the far left i was going to build a small stud wall at 90 degrees to the wall - hide my bike and add a bit to the wall.

Any pointers or "dont do...."

In reply to Einriba:

Just a thought, but is it a party wall? If so you may want to check that you don't fall foul of the Party Wall Acts.

In reply to Einriba:
Google 'home bouldering wall construction', there's loads to look at and get ideas from.
Also do a search on this forum, there's a couple of recent threads about it.

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ua...

In reply to Einriba:








You're going to need to decide what you want to get out of the facility.

If your aim is to train your own strength and stamina you will need something entirely different to the wall that your kids might enjoy playing on.

In reply to Trangia:

Hi, no it's not a party wall - it's in our garden completely stand alone. I believe it's historical use was as a pig sty?

In reply to Removed Usergilesf:

Hi, yes I had looked at that previously. I'm ok with the construction of the wall, it's the actual route setting and what obstacles / features I should plan in that I'm struggling with.

That page has good info about vertical being pretty useless for workouts, so that's a handy tip.

Is there anywhere that shows good placements for holds, or is it more an art-form than an exact science?

In reply to Einriba:
Just keep the footholds small and not too numerous. As the angle of the wall increases, you can increase the size and frequency of them accordingly.

In reply to Einriba:

Do you have a local bouldering center or climbing wall with bouldering? I'd suggest you pay for a few sessions there, see what you enjoy climbing on before you build anything. I'm not really understanding your motivation, do any of you actually climb at the moment or do you see this as a way into it or just as a novelty for the family?

After you've been to the wall and figured out what you can do and what you like bear in mind that the big holds used by many 'walls get very expensive and that if you actually use the wall you build you'll progress from novice very quickly. The wall will need to grow and evolve with you or it'll become expensive shelving/firewood.
jk

In reply to jkarran:





Hi,

Yes we've been climbing for about 2 years now - mostly top roping. Been to a few centres and a regular at the local one. I'm up to a 6a/b now on a top rope, leading in the low 5's...

The motivation behind it was somewhere to build some strength, learn some techniques and have a bit of fun.

In reply to Einriba:
I saw your profile after I posted. Looking at the space and your requirements I'd build the wall on the left where it's taller rather than to the right as you appear to suggest. It also seems the wall may be double skin to that side, I'd be wary of the strength of a single skin brick wall of old outhouse, do give that some consideration and if it's potentially sketchy then consider building off the purlins and the floor instead.

Personally I'd build 3x, 1m wide tilting panels side by side sat on a kicker just tall enough to level the floor. Lightweight frame of 2x3 would be plenty if the rope/chain attaches at 2/3rd height, 18mm ply skin, drilled on 6-8" diamond pattern for T-nuts. Adjust with chain or knotted rope with a fixed back-up rope. Simple, versatile and of use to the whole family as angles can be adjusted to suit. If the kids are young and you don't want them moving the wall then lock the adjustment mechanism.

Just get stuck in and have fun setting problems. Scattergun a set or two of holds onto the wall and another bag of screw-on footholds then just play, move them as you see fit, keep a book making up problems as you go along. There's no need to set anything specific. Wooden holds are cheap and easy to make (search, it crops up from time to time).
jk

In reply to jkarran:

2 or even 2.6m height isn't very tall even for a home wall, especially if it is to be quite easy and vertical. You will be stuck to shuffling sideways because even one move up will put you over the top of it. Go into the area, put your arms up and see how much space you have above your hands before you reach the roof. Now take another 4 inches off that for some mats. Now decide if it is worth it....

In reply to RickyY:

This is why you set sit starts then traverse into the main problem and you don't put the mat right up to the wall, leave space for your heels. I've a friend with an excellent wall in a small shed maybe 10ft by 5 floor, 7ft high. Plenty of 8+ move hard problems possible on that. You do need to use space creatively and set creatively if your space is constrained but it's more than possible.
jk

In reply to Einriba:

Thanks folks

I realise it's not much space. I was thinking more traverse right to left. Build a corner and have an overhang that goes on to the roof.

Structurally - good shout. I think I'll end up building a stud wall across that area. Might be the safest bet.