UKC

Hi all

Had a couple of TR goes on Strawberry Jam (7b+) at the weekend and all felt fine apart from the crux section quite lowdown on the crack (prob obvious where I mean if you've tried it). I think there are a few ways of doing it, have heard high step / flag as one, but anyone have any beta to share?

In reply to Ian Bell:

It must be hard if no-one has any beta!

In reply to Ian Bell:

Did you read the comments in the logbooks? You could even email someone who marked it as clean...

Here's one:

"Well, got the moves of a sort. Most of the crucial holds leading up to the first crux (layback, high right foot and flag) were soaking. The moves above this were difficult as well. Will take some working on but I think it will go (so much harder than anything I've Red Pointed previously)."

In reply to springfall2008:

I did see that. Thought I'd ask separately just in case, I know sometimes people don't post beta in the logbooks to stop someone accidentally getting it if they're just browsing through. At least with this topic no-one would have got beta by accident without really wanting it.

As you say maybe a few emails is the best way.

In reply to springfall2008:

Those are my "rather hopeful" comments. I'd ignore them if I were you, although I did see someone using the "high right foot and flag" beta and being successful on it . . . . . . . they have climbed 8a though.

Actually, another bit of beta is left foot into the large pocket which worked for another mate.

Cheers
Giles

In reply to Ian Bell:

I did the first ascent and climbed it to the right of the cracks using a poor undercut for my right hand and a poor crimp just under the upper crack for my left. The upper wall (right of the crack) used to be much harder as several good holds have appeared over time

Most people now seem to layback up the crack edge (effectively climbing the left side of the crack) with a very high right foot and deep left foot flag. The bolts are to the left of the crack because I didn't bolt it.

In reply to Billg:

Thanks all, got some ideas for the 2nd round now. Billg I was trying it your way with the undercut before but was a bit powerful on the day for me. Good route though, thanks for the creation!