UKC Forums - Alps- so much rock yet so few routes

Alps- so much rock yet so few routes

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zimpara 09 Nov 2016

It struck me when I was out there, that there is so much rock, you need only pick up a guidebook to see. Yet on a Snowdon sized mountain feature there are perhaps 4-5 routes generally, is this due to politics or guidebooks from the old that would generally state- Climb the obvious ridge for 1000m to its height?

Dave Garnett 09 Nov 2016

In reply to zimpara:

> is this due to politics or guidebooks from the old that would generally state- Climb the obvious ridge for 1000m to its height?

You're right, I don't what everyone's been messing about at. When you've nipped up perhaps the 100 best of the rather tired old efforts for comparison the world's your lobster...

Mark Haward 09 Nov 2016

In reply to zimpara:

I can think of two possible reasons.
1) There is a lot of rock that is poor / loose / very dangerous to access.
2) With an abundance of rock, compared to the UK, there is probably less 'micro routing' in many areas and routes are more likely to stick to striking lines or features.

timjones 09 Nov 2016

In reply to zimpara:

> It struck me when I was out there, that there is so much rock, you need only pick up a guidebook to see. Yet on a Snowdon sized mountain feature there are perhaps 4-5 routes generally, is this due to politics or guidebooks from the old that would generally state- Climb the obvious ridge for 1000m to its height?

With so much rock to choose from you don't have to fill in all the gaps with sub-standard routes.

The great thing is that if think there should be more routes you can fill your boots, no-one is stopping you, what are you waiting for

Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 09 Nov 2016

In reply to zimpara:

There might be a lot more routes on the decent bits of rock than you realise:

http://www.climbandmore.com/climbing,588,0,1,mountains.html

Chris

jon 09 Nov 2016

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Hmmm, I know someone who'd get a dozen or so routes in between 8 and 9...

Misha 09 Nov 2016

In reply to zimpara:
There are more routes than you might think on the popular bits (easy access, good rock). As for the rest of the areas, you've answered your own question - with so much rock, there's simply too much to go at and not that many people will new route in hard to access areas or on poor rock or away from strong natural lines.

Post edited at 18:48

jimtitt 09 Nov 2016

In reply to zimpara:
You£ d be suprised at how few people actually do new routes, especially ground-up first ascents. Go to the Dolomites and see exactly how much potential there really is, especially as you can effectively climb anywhere.

Post edited at 19:01