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What's your worst walk-in experience at a crag?
In September we had a weekend club trip, Saturday was at Windgather, possibly the easiest of walk-ins (unless you know different).
Sunday was Castle Naze, a new crag for me. The weather forecast was changeable but when we left the campsite the sky was blue.
I huffed and puffed up to the crag, arriving last behind the whipper snappers. Before I'd got my bag off my back the heavens opened, heavy rain followed by sleet. We decided on a full scale retreat back to the cars. I was wet through to my pants by the time I got there.
Castle Naze has yet to feature on my log book.
What's your worst walk-in experience at a crag?
In September we had a weekend club trip, Saturday was at Windgather, possibly the easiest of walk-ins (unless you know different).
Sunday was Castle Naze, a new crag for me. The weather forecast was changeable but when we left the campsite the sky was blue.
I huffed and puffed up to the crag, arriving last behind the whipper snappers. Before I'd got my bag off my back the heavens opened, heavy rain followed by sleet. We decided on a full scale retreat back to the cars. I was wet through to my pants by the time I got there.
Castle Naze has yet to feature on my log book.
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In reply to JEF:
Funny I've had a similar experience with Castle Naze but I wouldn't say the walk out in the rain is very long !
My worst two, because it seemed to waste otherwise great days, were trying to find crags in the Merionydd guide. One un memorable chossy midge infested gritstone crag arrived at after an interminable soggy bog hop in mostly the wrong directions (and it rained on the bog hop out too)
The second trying to find Voie Suisse in sweltering humid conditions, from the vague description of "turning off ridge paths at obvious shoulders". The route when we got there was sopping and no way could we find other smaller crags described somewhere in the vicinity. So a day of sweaty toil carrying the bag up down and round hills for no reward.
Funny I've had a similar experience with Castle Naze but I wouldn't say the walk out in the rain is very long !
My worst two, because it seemed to waste otherwise great days, were trying to find crags in the Merionydd guide. One un memorable chossy midge infested gritstone crag arrived at after an interminable soggy bog hop in mostly the wrong directions (and it rained on the bog hop out too)
The second trying to find Voie Suisse in sweltering humid conditions, from the vague description of "turning off ridge paths at obvious shoulders". The route when we got there was sopping and no way could we find other smaller crags described somewhere in the vicinity. So a day of sweaty toil carrying the bag up down and round hills for no reward.
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In reply to JEF:
Carnedd Y Filiast (Cairn of the Greyhound Bitch)
I was staying in the hostel opposite, and in the changeable weather, I thought I would go and solo something on it quickly,
I came to it from above after a damp heather solo, and had to loop around and down, in which time it had started raining.
In the dark I abbed all the way down to nearly the farm house, using heather sprigs.
I took a selfie when I was back on the road, to show others what an epic looks like,
It was a pitch black photo.
Carnedd Y Filiast (Cairn of the Greyhound Bitch)
I was staying in the hostel opposite, and in the changeable weather, I thought I would go and solo something on it quickly,
I came to it from above after a damp heather solo, and had to loop around and down, in which time it had started raining.
In the dark I abbed all the way down to nearly the farm house, using heather sprigs.
I took a selfie when I was back on the road, to show others what an epic looks like,
It was a pitch black photo.
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In reply to JEF:
Not really the worst but certainly the longest. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy) Worth it for the routes though.
Worst walkin probably Bosley Cloud. Spent an hour thrashing through undergrowth and Rhododendrons trying to find "Cat on a hot tin roof"
A few sea-cliffs have also presented us with some exciting "walkins"
Not really the worst but certainly the longest. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy) Worth it for the routes though.
Worst walkin probably Bosley Cloud. Spent an hour thrashing through undergrowth and Rhododendrons trying to find "Cat on a hot tin roof"
A few sea-cliffs have also presented us with some exciting "walkins"
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In reply to JEF:
Drove over 2 hours and walked into St Govans. My mate slipped and sprained his ankle on the descent to the crag.
Some multi pitch route in Thailand involved a 2hr thrash through jungle scrambling over razor sharp (yes literally) rocks in flip flops. Just about worth it
Drove over 2 hours and walked into St Govans. My mate slipped and sprained his ankle on the descent to the crag.
Some multi pitch route in Thailand involved a 2hr thrash through jungle scrambling over razor sharp (yes literally) rocks in flip flops. Just about worth it
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In reply to JEF:
I once followed the 'obvious' path up to shining clough on a hot summer day. Complete with bushwhacking, several u-turns, crossing over the same stream several times. eventually, we arrived at the crag to find some helpful Brummies who'd got lost as well, turns out we were following their tracks and not the track up-to-the crag. Guidebook time 45mins, us 2 hours.
I once followed the 'obvious' path up to shining clough on a hot summer day. Complete with bushwhacking, several u-turns, crossing over the same stream several times. eventually, we arrived at the crag to find some helpful Brummies who'd got lost as well, turns out we were following their tracks and not the track up-to-the crag. Guidebook time 45mins, us 2 hours.
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In reply to JEF:
Left work at 6pm one Friday evening, drove up to Glasgow, met up with friends, pitched tents just outside Braemar at 2.30am, got up at 6 to walk in to Garbh Choire with full packs for a go at Squareface, turned out the base of the route (and surrounds) was covered in particularly slippery snow, decided to abandon the attempt, walked out.
At least it's a pretty flat walk...
Left work at 6pm one Friday evening, drove up to Glasgow, met up with friends, pitched tents just outside Braemar at 2.30am, got up at 6 to walk in to Garbh Choire with full packs for a go at Squareface, turned out the base of the route (and surrounds) was covered in particularly slippery snow, decided to abandon the attempt, walked out.
At least it's a pretty flat walk...
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In reply to JEF:
Many years ago (before the days of decent forecasts) was on a family climbing holiday (with young children) in Super Besse - get permission to go climb the excellent Dent de la Rancune as long as not too late back
so:
Day 1: up 6am, 30 min drive, 20 min walk, starts raining, 20 min walk back, 30 min drive
Day 2: up 6am, 30 min drive, 45 min walk, gearing up, starts raining, 45 min walk back, 30 min drive
Day 3: up 6am, 30 min drive, 45 min walk, climb the route, abb off, starts raining, 45 min walk back, 30 min drive
It's actually a rather fine walk and an excellent thing to climb, but I don't necessarily recommend doing it like we had to
Many years ago (before the days of decent forecasts) was on a family climbing holiday (with young children) in Super Besse - get permission to go climb the excellent Dent de la Rancune as long as not too late back
so:
Day 1: up 6am, 30 min drive, 20 min walk, starts raining, 20 min walk back, 30 min drive
Day 2: up 6am, 30 min drive, 45 min walk, gearing up, starts raining, 45 min walk back, 30 min drive
Day 3: up 6am, 30 min drive, 45 min walk, climb the route, abb off, starts raining, 45 min walk back, 30 min drive
It's actually a rather fine walk and an excellent thing to climb, but I don't necessarily recommend doing it like we had to
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In reply to JEF:
Best place I know is Witches Quarry - Pendle...where if your early enough you could belay from your boot.
Worst place for walk in was Simonseat. Great place to climb just a bit of a bitch of an uphill slog for 30 mins.
Bit fitter now so might not be so bad.
Best place I know is Witches Quarry - Pendle...where if your early enough you could belay from your boot.
Worst place for walk in was Simonseat. Great place to climb just a bit of a bitch of an uphill slog for 30 mins.
Bit fitter now so might not be so bad.
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In reply to JEF:
I always regret not bringing a machete to the Wye Valley as in the hunt for the climbs we always end up carving our way through thick nettles, brambles, mosquitos, through streams and up wet slimy waterfalls.
Part of the adventure though I guess!
I always regret not bringing a machete to the Wye Valley as in the hunt for the climbs we always end up carving our way through thick nettles, brambles, mosquitos, through streams and up wet slimy waterfalls.
Part of the adventure though I guess!
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In reply to JEF:
Another that I'd blanked from my mind; Symonds Yat. We thought we'd follow the "path" as shown in the guide book. It took us down a very steep, muddy and slippery gorge. We met some locals who approached at 90 degrees to us, if we'd kept on I think we'd have fallen in the river.
Our corrective route wasn't much better, a scramble while hanging on to tree roots for grim death!
Another that I'd blanked from my mind; Symonds Yat. We thought we'd follow the "path" as shown in the guide book. It took us down a very steep, muddy and slippery gorge. We met some locals who approached at 90 degrees to us, if we'd kept on I think we'd have fallen in the river.
Our corrective route wasn't much better, a scramble while hanging on to tree roots for grim death!
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In reply to Duncan Bourne:
did you find it? I spent quite a while trying to find it too once, i seem to remember that the guide book approach details were completely wrong but it was a reasonable route after all the faff
> Worst walkin probably Bosley Cloud. Spent an hour thrashing through undergrowth and Rhododendrons trying to find "Cat on a hot tin roof"
did you find it? I spent quite a while trying to find it too once, i seem to remember that the guide book approach details were completely wrong but it was a reasonable route after all the faff
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In reply to JEF:
Going back years, Carnmore - don't how far it is but bloody miles with a week's food etc on your back. The weather was crap, managed one route then walked out again five days later
Chris
Going back years, Carnmore - don't how far it is but bloody miles with a week's food etc on your back. The weather was crap, managed one route then walked out again five days later
Chris
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In reply to Tall Clare:
Scottish winter at its best. How you must have revelled in the retreat from the crag.
Scottish winter at its best. How you must have revelled in the retreat from the crag.
In reply to JEF:
This one in the Ariege: GR 4B+ (5c)
It is a really steep ascent with no real path up steep scree much of the way. If that wasn't bad enough there were several inches of wet snow on the ground. The book said about 30 mins, took us over 90 mins. Not quite sure if the route was worth the pain.
This one in the Ariege: GR 4B+ (5c)
It is a really steep ascent with no real path up steep scree much of the way. If that wasn't bad enough there were several inches of wet snow on the ground. The book said about 30 mins, took us over 90 mins. Not quite sure if the route was worth the pain.
In reply to JEF:
I'm not sure it quite qualifies, but I'll offer this:
Drove up to Spittal of Glenshee on Friday night and stayed at the hostel there.
Woke up early on Saturday morning falling out of the top bunk; clobbered my head on table beside the lower bunk on the way down. Swore a bit, when I felt able.
Showered, had breakfast. I'm fine, honest!
Drove to Linn of Dee. Bit of a headache, though.
Got the bikes out, cycled in to Creag a'choire Etchachan, walking the last bit. Major headache now, and feeling a bit queasy. Just pre-climb nerves, I'm sure.
Racked up. Climbed the first pitch of Talisman. Started to set belay, but now shaking, with a pounding headache, dizziness and considering vomiting - OK, maybe I should come down.
Downclimbed the pitch, stripping the gear (hey, that stuff costs money!)
Pushed the bike back out, stopping to retch a bit now and then. Jenny drove us home.
OK, I can be a bit daft sometimes - but on the plus side, I didn't suffer any long-term effezzth.
I'm not sure it quite qualifies, but I'll offer this:
Drove up to Spittal of Glenshee on Friday night and stayed at the hostel there.
Woke up early on Saturday morning falling out of the top bunk; clobbered my head on table beside the lower bunk on the way down. Swore a bit, when I felt able.
Showered, had breakfast. I'm fine, honest!
Drove to Linn of Dee. Bit of a headache, though.
Got the bikes out, cycled in to Creag a'choire Etchachan, walking the last bit. Major headache now, and feeling a bit queasy. Just pre-climb nerves, I'm sure.
Racked up. Climbed the first pitch of Talisman. Started to set belay, but now shaking, with a pounding headache, dizziness and considering vomiting - OK, maybe I should come down.
Downclimbed the pitch, stripping the gear (hey, that stuff costs money!)
Pushed the bike back out, stopping to retch a bit now and then. Jenny drove us home.
OK, I can be a bit daft sometimes - but on the plus side, I didn't suffer any long-term effezzth.
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In reply to Graeme Hammond:
A very nice route once you got to it. Found it easier the second time around
A very nice route once you got to it. Found it easier the second time around
In reply to Duncan Bourne:
Trying to find The Night Watch, occasionally touted as the best VS in the country, at Whitestone Cliff. Must have descended in the wrong place, much jungle breaking and finally found it just in time to climb with our packs and get out before dark on a short freezing December day! A memorable day!
Trying to find The Night Watch, occasionally touted as the best VS in the country, at Whitestone Cliff. Must have descended in the wrong place, much jungle breaking and finally found it just in time to climb with our packs and get out before dark on a short freezing December day! A memorable day!
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In reply to BnB:
Yeah all part of the winter game. However, going by the route (Squareface) I suspect this was a summer trip?
> Scottish winter at its best. How you must have revelled in the retreat from the crag.
Yeah all part of the winter game. However, going by the route (Squareface) I suspect this was a summer trip?
In reply to Rog Wilko:
Agreed, struggled up to that crag and had even more fun finding our sacks after the descent.
Agreed, struggled up to that crag and had even more fun finding our sacks after the descent.
In reply to JEF:
Flew to San Francisco.
Drove to Lone Pine.
Scored a hard-to-get permit for Mt Whitney.
The walk-in took us a full day with rucksacks full of climbing and camping gear - about 8 miles with over 4000' height gain and some tricky scrambling.
The next day we started to climb the classic East Buttress route. At the top of the second pitch, it started to snow heavily. We abseiled off and retreated to the tent.
The next morning, the mountain was still covered in snow, so we walked all the way out to the car.
One day we'll get back there!
Flew to San Francisco.
Drove to Lone Pine.
Scored a hard-to-get permit for Mt Whitney.
The walk-in took us a full day with rucksacks full of climbing and camping gear - about 8 miles with over 4000' height gain and some tricky scrambling.
The next day we started to climb the classic East Buttress route. At the top of the second pitch, it started to snow heavily. We abseiled off and retreated to the tent.
The next morning, the mountain was still covered in snow, so we walked all the way out to the car.
One day we'll get back there!
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In reply to Chris Craggs:
I was just about to say Carnmore.
About 7 miles IIRC, depending on how far up the road/track you can get your car - it was owned by the Guiness Family back when we were last there, (don't know if it still is) and the gillies could be a bit of a problem if you went too far up.
Worth the effort though, even if you only get one day of decent the weather, just for Gob and Dragon
> Going back years, Carnmore - don't how far it is but bloody miles with a week's food etc on your back. The weather was crap, managed one route then walked out again five days later
> Chris
I was just about to say Carnmore.
About 7 miles IIRC, depending on how far up the road/track you can get your car - it was owned by the Guiness Family back when we were last there, (don't know if it still is) and the gillies could be a bit of a problem if you went too far up.
Worth the effort though, even if you only get one day of decent the weather, just for Gob and Dragon
Post edited at 19:16
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In reply to JEF:
From the UKC description of the approach to Hollenderan: "The wonderfully situated climbing cabin provides a perfect base for climbing here. There are two approaches: from the east about 3 hrs of scenic but hard hiking, with the west approach 1.5 - 2.5 hrs depending if you know the way."
We did the east option and it was some of the toughest off track hiking I've ever done, lots of it over massive boulder fields with probably 1000 mtrs of ascent just to add to the pain. By far the toughest 'in a day' day I've ever done.
From the UKC description of the approach to Hollenderan: "The wonderfully situated climbing cabin provides a perfect base for climbing here. There are two approaches: from the east about 3 hrs of scenic but hard hiking, with the west approach 1.5 - 2.5 hrs depending if you know the way."
We did the east option and it was some of the toughest off track hiking I've ever done, lots of it over massive boulder fields with probably 1000 mtrs of ascent just to add to the pain. By far the toughest 'in a day' day I've ever done.
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In reply to JEF:
The time my partner said "Be careful". I hadn't really thought much about the airspace to the right of me before that.
After that I couldn't *stop* thinking about it.
The time my partner said "Be careful". I hadn't really thought much about the airspace to the right of me before that.
After that I couldn't *stop* thinking about it.
In reply to JEF:
Not a walk in, but a day of similar quality to some others on here - up at 5.30am on a January morning, drove Glasgow - Aviemore, got out the car in the ski car park and got knocked flat by the wind. (Both of us). So no to Coire an Sneachta; drove over to Glencoe to look at the other Coire an Lochain. Rain belting down, or rather mostly across. Ended up on the climbing wall in Falkirk after the best part of a 300 mile drive...
Not a walk in, but a day of similar quality to some others on here - up at 5.30am on a January morning, drove Glasgow - Aviemore, got out the car in the ski car park and got knocked flat by the wind. (Both of us). So no to Coire an Sneachta; drove over to Glencoe to look at the other Coire an Lochain. Rain belting down, or rather mostly across. Ended up on the climbing wall in Falkirk after the best part of a 300 mile drive...
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In reply to JEF:
I enjoy walking so to me the idea of a worst walk seems a bit perverse. You must realise that there are probably more people who do just the walking than go climbing?
I enjoy walking so to me the idea of a worst walk seems a bit perverse. You must realise that there are probably more people who do just the walking than go climbing?
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In reply to Šljiva: Whitestone Cliff - definitely a crag where time spent beforehand checking it all out before "going down" is time saved
Great route though and quite a soft touch for VS (wrong thread?)
Great route though and quite a soft touch for VS (wrong thread?)
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In reply to Bulls Crack: Those were the days - belaying for Padme/Mani out of my mate's Porsche (must of impressed Ron because he said hi) - and driving up to Millstone in my mum's mini counting how many time the floor scraped on boulders.
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In reply to cat22:
That's a bummer. Humping a bag of climbing and camping gear up there was tough.
If it's any consolation East Buttress is comparable, but not as good as Grooved Arête on Tryfan. Which is much handier...
That's a bummer. Humping a bag of climbing and camping gear up there was tough.
If it's any consolation East Buttress is comparable, but not as good as Grooved Arête on Tryfan. Which is much handier...
In reply to Michael Hood:
Quite possibly good advice but it was one those random outings where two us found ourselves nearby on a sunny December day with a dusting of snow on the ground. No guidebook of course, just an internet print out. Must be the only place where nettles thrive in mid-winter :s found the route quite tough at the time, possibly due to carting up a rucksack, or not my kind of climb.
Would be good to revisit at some point.
Quite possibly good advice but it was one those random outings where two us found ourselves nearby on a sunny December day with a dusting of snow on the ground. No guidebook of course, just an internet print out. Must be the only place where nettles thrive in mid-winter :s found the route quite tough at the time, possibly due to carting up a rucksack, or not my kind of climb.
Would be good to revisit at some point.
In reply to Šljiva:
Ooooo...your mention of nettles just reminded me of wading through gorse to get to Yellow Craigs in East Lothian. Just remember the 4 of us saying ow a lot before packing it in and going to the pub. Not one for a revisit!
Ooooo...your mention of nettles just reminded me of wading through gorse to get to Yellow Craigs in East Lothian. Just remember the 4 of us saying ow a lot before packing it in and going to the pub. Not one for a revisit!
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In reply to harold walmsley:
Yes, but not really the point of the post.
> I enjoy walking so to me the idea of a worst walk seems a bit perverse. You must realise that there are probably more people who do just the walking than go climbing?
Yes, but not really the point of the post.
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In reply to JEF:
Can't remember the crag but it was in the lakes, walked in for an hour or so, found our line, racked up, tied in, tummy rumbled and I let out a tension relieving fart which turned out to have rather more solidity than planned. Turned out that the last night's food hygiene hadn't been great and I suddenly had the raging shits an hour from the car and a pair of grundys with a skidmark that could grace santa pod.
The walk in was fine, the walk out was hell.
Can't remember the crag but it was in the lakes, walked in for an hour or so, found our line, racked up, tied in, tummy rumbled and I let out a tension relieving fart which turned out to have rather more solidity than planned. Turned out that the last night's food hygiene hadn't been great and I suddenly had the raging shits an hour from the car and a pair of grundys with a skidmark that could grace santa pod.
The walk in was fine, the walk out was hell.
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In reply to JEF:
Will O' The Wisp, Craig Cowarch. Steep, interminable, bouldery - and not worth it, either.
Will O' The Wisp, Craig Cowarch. Steep, interminable, bouldery - and not worth it, either.
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In reply to JEF:
Froggatt.
Parked at Grouse Inn for a club meet. Missed the approach with everyone, as was 10min late. New climber, carrying unwieldy gym bag.
Decided to cut across a field. Walked through a load of flies. Turns out it was a wasp nest. They flew into my hair, head covered in stings. Ran off in a panic, tripped into a stream, almost face-planted, a piece of grass went into my eye. More painful than it sounds. Hopeful about rocks in the distance. Arrived at... White Edge.
Walked across White Edge, looking for Froggatt, t-shirt over head like ET because of wasp phobia, being grumpy to passersby. Close to turning back to go home. Eventually found Curbar. Then finally arrived at Froggatt, about 2hrs late. Put helmet onto a sore head, holding a sore eye shut.
Incidentally, had a brilliant day climbing with Rucksack Club, but that's off-topic.
Froggatt.
Parked at Grouse Inn for a club meet. Missed the approach with everyone, as was 10min late. New climber, carrying unwieldy gym bag.
Decided to cut across a field. Walked through a load of flies. Turns out it was a wasp nest. They flew into my hair, head covered in stings. Ran off in a panic, tripped into a stream, almost face-planted, a piece of grass went into my eye. More painful than it sounds. Hopeful about rocks in the distance. Arrived at... White Edge.
Walked across White Edge, looking for Froggatt, t-shirt over head like ET because of wasp phobia, being grumpy to passersby. Close to turning back to go home. Eventually found Curbar. Then finally arrived at Froggatt, about 2hrs late. Put helmet onto a sore head, holding a sore eye shut.
Incidentally, had a brilliant day climbing with Rucksack Club, but that's off-topic.
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In reply to JEF:
Yeah been there done that, til at end of day someone said (as we were camping and climbing again next day) walk from the car park past the picnic bench and go straight down to the fence hop over and abseil from of tree into the area behind the Pinnacle. brill!
Yeah been there done that, til at end of day someone said (as we were camping and climbing again next day) walk from the car park past the picnic bench and go straight down to the fence hop over and abseil from of tree into the area behind the Pinnacle. brill!
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In reply to JEF:
The Hawkcraig, Aberdour. 2 mins from the car. My second time proper "rock climbing." Tripped on a bit of wire on the boulder beach and banged my knee which later X-rays revealed had cracked my patella. Seconded Cranium Crack in my Hi Tec Trails before my knee swelled up like a giant sausage, then went to visit my already worried parents on crutches.
The Hawkcraig, Aberdour. 2 mins from the car. My second time proper "rock climbing." Tripped on a bit of wire on the boulder beach and banged my knee which later X-rays revealed had cracked my patella. Seconded Cranium Crack in my Hi Tec Trails before my knee swelled up like a giant sausage, then went to visit my already worried parents on crutches.
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In reply to JEF:
All those Scottish walk ins in foul weather, only to beat a hasty retreat from the crag as it's just too windy or it isn't in condition...
The physically hardest walk in I've done was up to the Eccles bivvy hut, which is at 3,800m on the Italian side of Mont Blanc. That was an incessant slog up about 2,200m of vertical which took about 8 hours with a heavy pack, with a few crevasses thrown in for added entertainment. Worth it though and I'd do it again for some of the routes there...
All those Scottish walk ins in foul weather, only to beat a hasty retreat from the crag as it's just too windy or it isn't in condition...
The physically hardest walk in I've done was up to the Eccles bivvy hut, which is at 3,800m on the Italian side of Mont Blanc. That was an incessant slog up about 2,200m of vertical which took about 8 hours with a heavy pack, with a few crevasses thrown in for added entertainment. Worth it though and I'd do it again for some of the routes there...
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In reply to JEF:
Perhaps because of the age of my knees I find the walk up to Heather Terrace on Tryfan is a real slog. Not bad or unpleasant, but very hard work!
Perhaps because of the age of my knees I find the walk up to Heather Terrace on Tryfan is a real slog. Not bad or unpleasant, but very hard work!
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In reply to JEF:
Trying to find Matchless on the Culm Coast with a mate and his not-very-outdoorsy girlfriend. By the time we found it, the tide was in so we couldn't get to the base of it. Plan B of scrambling back up collapsing gorse/shale/mud slope to ab in from the top was abandoned when said girlfriend made it extremely clear she was not happy with hanging around on aforementioned collapsing slope or exposed cliff top while we climbed. So we retreated to the Vicarage tea rooms without getting any climbing done for the famous cream tea which I suspect was the only reason she came along with us in the first place.
Trying to find Matchless on the Culm Coast with a mate and his not-very-outdoorsy girlfriend. By the time we found it, the tide was in so we couldn't get to the base of it. Plan B of scrambling back up collapsing gorse/shale/mud slope to ab in from the top was abandoned when said girlfriend made it extremely clear she was not happy with hanging around on aforementioned collapsing slope or exposed cliff top while we climbed. So we retreated to the Vicarage tea rooms without getting any climbing done for the famous cream tea which I suspect was the only reason she came along with us in the first place.
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In reply to JEF: camped in wasdale. Had a ...night...in the pub. Woke up to a blazing hot day. walked our gear up to new west climb on Pillar. Got to the ridge before where you'd drop down to start the climb. Had a little lie down. Eventually decided when we had enough strength to stand up again to walk back to wasdale, with only a little light retching on the way.
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In reply to JEF:
Turningstone Edge in Derbyshire.
Turningstone Edge
We walked into the woods, to a clearing with a "weird looking tree" and followed a narrow steep gully down (as per guidebook). And down. And down. We pushed on, expecting to find the crag at any point, through thick Rhododendrons and a thick carpet of leaves and eventually came to a path running across the hillside. No sign of any crag back up the hill through the thick woods. Having walked both ways along this path we came to a clearing in the woods that gave us a distant view of the crag back on the hill crest. We couldn't find a path back up so decided to bushwhack back up the hill on a 'direttissima'. We literally crawled through and clambered over moss and lichen festooned branches and squeezed through tiny gaps before eventually finding something to climb, covered in sweat, dust, bits of tree and enough moss to carpet a couple of small forest glades. Of course on the way out we saw how easy it should have been to find.
Worth a trip there to find Sail Arete though - lovely route.
Turningstone Edge in Derbyshire.
Turningstone Edge
We walked into the woods, to a clearing with a "weird looking tree" and followed a narrow steep gully down (as per guidebook). And down. And down. We pushed on, expecting to find the crag at any point, through thick Rhododendrons and a thick carpet of leaves and eventually came to a path running across the hillside. No sign of any crag back up the hill through the thick woods. Having walked both ways along this path we came to a clearing in the woods that gave us a distant view of the crag back on the hill crest. We couldn't find a path back up so decided to bushwhack back up the hill on a 'direttissima'. We literally crawled through and clambered over moss and lichen festooned branches and squeezed through tiny gaps before eventually finding something to climb, covered in sweat, dust, bits of tree and enough moss to carpet a couple of small forest glades. Of course on the way out we saw how easy it should have been to find.
Worth a trip there to find Sail Arete though - lovely route.
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In reply to SuperstarDJ:
I had a similar experience to that. It was a toss up between Turnstone edge for me and Bosley Cloud
I had a similar experience to that. It was a toss up between Turnstone edge for me and Bosley Cloud
1
In reply to JEF:
Not the 'worst' but the one that stands out the most was first visit to Thorn Crag. We took the wrong path (out of 2 choices) and went most of the way to that crag that's way the hell to the right of Thorn. It's like a 2 hour walk. Was the windiest day I've ever climbed in too, you couldn't stand up when you got to the top of the climbs because you'd just get gusted off.
Not the 'worst' but the one that stands out the most was first visit to Thorn Crag. We took the wrong path (out of 2 choices) and went most of the way to that crag that's way the hell to the right of Thorn. It's like a 2 hour walk. Was the windiest day I've ever climbed in too, you couldn't stand up when you got to the top of the climbs because you'd just get gusted off.
In reply to jcw:
To be clear I didn't say it was a bad walkin. Just the worst I can remember. Most of the "bad" walkins I have had have been an adventure in themselves and although hard have had something to merit them. Seeing desert foxes and eagles on the walkin to climb Fistuk Halabi on Jebal Salsafa in Sinai made the long trek and route finding worth it. Making the mistake of trying to go bouldering on some of the more distant rocks in Hampi after 10.00 am was like like walking in an oven and far too hot to climb once we got there, but it is such a fantastic landscape, miles and miles of huge granite boulders and outcrops. The "walkin" to Le Chateau de Cartes on Pen-Hir Brittany is a precarious scamble but exciting for all that.
To be clear I didn't say it was a bad walkin. Just the worst I can remember. Most of the "bad" walkins I have had have been an adventure in themselves and although hard have had something to merit them. Seeing desert foxes and eagles on the walkin to climb Fistuk Halabi on Jebal Salsafa in Sinai made the long trek and route finding worth it. Making the mistake of trying to go bouldering on some of the more distant rocks in Hampi after 10.00 am was like like walking in an oven and far too hot to climb once we got there, but it is such a fantastic landscape, miles and miles of huge granite boulders and outcrops. The "walkin" to Le Chateau de Cartes on Pen-Hir Brittany is a precarious scamble but exciting for all that.
In reply to Goucho:
The thing about Carnmore though is that the walk in isn't a surprise. Its exactly like the book says and, being NW Scotland, the rain and midges are exactly as expected as well.
The worst ones for me are where the walk in or out turns out to be way worse than expected.
> I was just about to say Carnmore.
The thing about Carnmore though is that the walk in isn't a surprise. Its exactly like the book says and, being NW Scotland, the rain and midges are exactly as expected as well.
The worst ones for me are where the walk in or out turns out to be way worse than expected.
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In reply to Removed User:
2001- Foot and Mouth. We had to walk in to Foinaven from Laxford Bridge ( ?) rather than the paltry 1.5 hour walk in from the North. A few hours with all our climbing and camping kit with the aim of climbing Pilastre, the Boysen route. Got there, the crag looked like an overgrown piece of crap. Added to which, we were having problems standing up due to the strength of the wind.
Spent most of the night building a stone windbreak round the 4 season tent which was getting battered by the winds and sheets of water getting blown off the loch at c. 60-70 mph, accompanied by sleet.
That was a good walk in.
2001- Foot and Mouth. We had to walk in to Foinaven from Laxford Bridge ( ?) rather than the paltry 1.5 hour walk in from the North. A few hours with all our climbing and camping kit with the aim of climbing Pilastre, the Boysen route. Got there, the crag looked like an overgrown piece of crap. Added to which, we were having problems standing up due to the strength of the wind.
Spent most of the night building a stone windbreak round the 4 season tent which was getting battered by the winds and sheets of water getting blown off the loch at c. 60-70 mph, accompanied by sleet.
That was a good walk in.
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In reply to Chris Craggs:
That's one route more than we managed on our visit. Got to the foot of a VDiff nearby just as the rain started, by the next day it had turned to snow (late May) so turned into a Munro bagging trip instead.
> Going back years, Carnmore - don't how far it is but bloody miles with a week's food etc on your back. The weather was crap, managed one route then walked out again five days later
That's one route more than we managed on our visit. Got to the foot of a VDiff nearby just as the rain started, by the next day it had turned to snow (late May) so turned into a Munro bagging trip instead.
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In reply to JEF:
I got lost trying to find Mummys Church in heavy rain and thick fog. An hour walking back and forth over a boggy hillside while getting wet. Never did find the route.
I got lost trying to find Mummys Church in heavy rain and thick fog. An hour walking back and forth over a boggy hillside while getting wet. Never did find the route.
Post edited at 09:34
In reply to JEF:
Gull Rock - Marsland was pretty bad as we'd expected a 20 minute stroll, but it was drizzling and everything was slippery so it took us well over an hour.
And we haven't had much success with No match for crag id:301 - I climbed there once over 20 years ago, but every attempt since then we've made it almost as far as the crag before the clouds came down and the rain started. Last time we could even find the crag due in the mist.
But in better weather both of these would be fantastic walk-ins
Gull Rock - Marsland was pretty bad as we'd expected a 20 minute stroll, but it was drizzling and everything was slippery so it took us well over an hour.
And we haven't had much success with No match for crag id:301 - I climbed there once over 20 years ago, but every attempt since then we've made it almost as far as the crag before the clouds came down and the rain started. Last time we could even find the crag due in the mist.
But in better weather both of these would be fantastic walk-ins
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In reply to lummox:
No, Zebra Slabs (VD)
Wisdom Buttress was on the original plan too but never got that far!
No, Zebra Slabs (VD)
Wisdom Buttress was on the original plan too but never got that far!
Post edited at 09:47
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
Was Zebra Slabs good ? Wisdom is excellent- well worth the walk in. A return trip is long overdue for me..
Was Zebra Slabs good ? Wisdom is excellent- well worth the walk in. A return trip is long overdue for me..
In reply to JEF:
Dun Leacainn used to be thick conifers with no route through. You had no idea where you were just thrusting through it in a up hill direction. You would have pine needles absolutely everywhere, scratched to hell.
Glen Rosa on Arran used to be well known to be the boggiest walk in. Once seen a guy up to his thighs in peaty porridge. Plus all those things that like to bite you that are in abundance in Glen Rosa. These days the paths are so well maintained I was able to run through in trainers, last march and have dry feet at the end.
Worst though has to be Northern Corsica. Never got anywhere near the crag after hours fighting through thick thorn bushes. Had to turn back while we still had enough blood to maintain the heart.
Dun Leacainn used to be thick conifers with no route through. You had no idea where you were just thrusting through it in a up hill direction. You would have pine needles absolutely everywhere, scratched to hell.
Glen Rosa on Arran used to be well known to be the boggiest walk in. Once seen a guy up to his thighs in peaty porridge. Plus all those things that like to bite you that are in abundance in Glen Rosa. These days the paths are so well maintained I was able to run through in trainers, last march and have dry feet at the end.
Worst though has to be Northern Corsica. Never got anywhere near the crag after hours fighting through thick thorn bushes. Had to turn back while we still had enough blood to maintain the heart.
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In reply to JEF:
I didn't even onsight the approach to scafell with a fellow ukcer a few years back . Blazing sun got the better of me like it frequently does. Cue vomit, near collapse and retreat. He went alone, met some random and did Saxon. I fell asleep in my car. He still climbs with me despite this.
6hr round trip to fail on the approach, classic bellend.
Need to go back for a redpoint attempt in better conditions.
Edit: this just reminded me of the worst walk off as well, with the very same ukcer. Climbed fiesta in riglos and took flip flops for the walk down. There was 6 inches of snow Had to follow his footprints all the way, was painful and long.
I didn't even onsight the approach to scafell with a fellow ukcer a few years back . Blazing sun got the better of me like it frequently does. Cue vomit, near collapse and retreat. He went alone, met some random and did Saxon. I fell asleep in my car. He still climbs with me despite this.
6hr round trip to fail on the approach, classic bellend.
Need to go back for a redpoint attempt in better conditions.
Edit: this just reminded me of the worst walk off as well, with the very same ukcer. Climbed fiesta in riglos and took flip flops for the walk down. There was 6 inches of snow Had to follow his footprints all the way, was painful and long.
Post edited at 10:42
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In reply to Bulls Crack:
So that's why it's not as popular as it once was! (the track being blocked these days).
> Stoney used to be pretty challenging if you didn't drive up the track.
So that's why it's not as popular as it once was! (the track being blocked these days).
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In reply to JEF:
Walk in to Gimmer always feels like a fairly unpleasant slog to me - but worth it once you're there.
Walk offs are often worse in my experience - had a couple of eventful ones in the Dolomites, once we took a few minutes shelter from the thunderstorm under the eaves of a cowshed, and I seriously considered going in and snuggling up to a nice warm cow for the night.
A recent one was following a long link-up out of Cwm Idwal, my partner insisted on ticking the Glyder summit, by which time it was pitch black, we soon realised we'd taken the wrong path down but could see a road in the distance so decided to press on. After a long slog over boulders, stepping in bogs etc we reached said road, which was the bottom of the way up to Pen y Pass by the Pen y Grwyd Hotel. Our car was back at Ogwen Cottage, 9.5 miles away by road. this was all done in a Sunday day trip, from Coventry - 20 hours door to door.
Walk in to Gimmer always feels like a fairly unpleasant slog to me - but worth it once you're there.
Walk offs are often worse in my experience - had a couple of eventful ones in the Dolomites, once we took a few minutes shelter from the thunderstorm under the eaves of a cowshed, and I seriously considered going in and snuggling up to a nice warm cow for the night.
A recent one was following a long link-up out of Cwm Idwal, my partner insisted on ticking the Glyder summit, by which time it was pitch black, we soon realised we'd taken the wrong path down but could see a road in the distance so decided to press on. After a long slog over boulders, stepping in bogs etc we reached said road, which was the bottom of the way up to Pen y Pass by the Pen y Grwyd Hotel. Our car was back at Ogwen Cottage, 9.5 miles away by road. this was all done in a Sunday day trip, from Coventry - 20 hours door to door.
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In reply to GrahamD:
It is pretty exposed and the wind sometimes blows up the crag in a way that can make belaying very uncomfortable. I once developed sinusitis after having a howling gale blow up my nose for an hour!
> Funny I've had a similar experience with Castle Naze but I wouldn't say the walk out in the rain is very long !
It is pretty exposed and the wind sometimes blows up the crag in a way that can make belaying very uncomfortable. I once developed sinusitis after having a howling gale blow up my nose for an hour!
In reply to JEF:
Worst walk in: another vote for Pillar
Worst walk in experience: the slog to the base of Half Dome. The back way is long and exhausting, the front is dodgy.
I went up the front last summer (the first time for about 20 years) and on one of the steep bits with a rope dangling down the rope broke. Nearly killed my son on the rope and me soloing beside him when he took me out in the fall.
Worst walk in: another vote for Pillar
Worst walk in experience: the slog to the base of Half Dome. The back way is long and exhausting, the front is dodgy.
I went up the front last summer (the first time for about 20 years) and on one of the steep bits with a rope dangling down the rope broke. Nearly killed my son on the rope and me soloing beside him when he took me out in the fall.
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In reply to JEF:
Tried to walk 4-5km from the nearest road to a crag on Foinaven. The clouds of midges we expected, but I've never seen so many horseflies! We were being bitten every few seconds, for about an hour. We were forced to turn back
Tried to walk 4-5km from the nearest road to a crag on Foinaven. The clouds of midges we expected, but I've never seen so many horseflies! We were being bitten every few seconds, for about an hour. We were forced to turn back
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In reply to lummox:
We'd kitted up, uncoiled the ropes, and I was about to start climbing when the heavens opened.
The first pitch looked OK though
> Was Zebra Slabs good ?
We'd kitted up, uncoiled the ropes, and I was about to start climbing when the heavens opened.
The first pitch looked OK though
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In reply to ripper:
Bet you've started to carry a compass since then.
> Walk in to Gimmer always feels like a fairly unpleasant slog to me
Go and wash your mouth out! ;O)). If you'd said Scafell walk in I might have agreed.> A recent one was following a long link-up out of Cwm Idwal, my partner insisted on ticking the Glyder summit, by which time it was pitch black, we soon realised we'd taken the wrong path down but could see a road in the distance so decided to press on. After a long slog over boulders, stepping in bogs etc we reached said road, which was the bottom of the way up to Pen y Pass by the Pen y Grwyd Hotel. Our car was back at Ogwen Cottage, 9.5 miles away by road. this was all done in a Sunday day trip, from Coventry - 20 hours door to door.
Bet you've started to carry a compass since then.
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In reply to summo:
You need some skis by the sound of things
> first into Meggie or Lurchers after a fresh dump of snow.
You need some skis by the sound of things
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In reply to Dave Garnett:
An hour is quite impressive for a Castle Naze route.
> It is pretty exposed and the wind sometimes blows up the crag in a way that can make belaying very uncomfortable. I once developed sinusitis after having a howling gale blow up my nose for an hour!
An hour is quite impressive for a Castle Naze route.
In reply to Rog Wilko:
shamefully admit I haven't climbed on Scafell (yet?)
As for carrying a compass - we'd only gone out for a day's cragging, didn't really think we needed one!
(when we left home we were heading for Tremadog, only diverted to the higher mountains as the weather seemed too good to waste)
> Go and wash your mouth out! ;O)). If you'd said Scafell walk in I might have agreed.
> Bet you've started to carry a compass since then.
shamefully admit I haven't climbed on Scafell (yet?)
As for carrying a compass - we'd only gone out for a day's cragging, didn't really think we needed one!
(when we left home we were heading for Tremadog, only diverted to the higher mountains as the weather seemed too good to waste)
In reply to ianstevens:
You are right, provided that you can climb with them on your pack as I wouldn't fancy a long route up post face with a set of skis, or are heading out same way. Blades are compromise, but often the worst of all worlds. These days, no I've got my skiing sorted, axed and crampons rarely go in the car without skis, and vice versa.
On meggie, you could of course ski to the top, leave skis, down the gully and climb up, ski off.
> You need some skis by the sound of things
You are right, provided that you can climb with them on your pack as I wouldn't fancy a long route up post face with a set of skis, or are heading out same way. Blades are compromise, but often the worst of all worlds. These days, no I've got my skiing sorted, axed and crampons rarely go in the car without skis, and vice versa.
On meggie, you could of course ski to the top, leave skis, down the gully and climb up, ski off.
In reply to JEF:
Lawrencefield. I'd been there before, but took completely the wrong path from the car park - I'd been there before, but a good few years before and memory a bit hazy.
Waste of a couple of hours trying to find the bloody thing - don't think the Scouts were too impressed!
Lawrencefield. I'd been there before, but took completely the wrong path from the car park - I'd been there before, but a good few years before and memory a bit hazy.
Waste of a couple of hours trying to find the bloody thing - don't think the Scouts were too impressed!
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In reply to GrahamD:
Multiple children being forced to climb to build their characters.
> An hour is quite impressive for a Castle Naze route.
Multiple children being forced to climb to build their characters.
2
In reply to Rog Wilko:
In the Lakes, while the Pillar walk-in (from Wasdale) is very beautiful but very long, the Scafell Crag approach is an absolute pig on a hot day with a heavy sack. But v rewarding once you're there.
> Go and wash your mouth out! ;O)). If you'd said Scafell walk in I might have agreed.
In the Lakes, while the Pillar walk-in (from Wasdale) is very beautiful but very long, the Scafell Crag approach is an absolute pig on a hot day with a heavy sack. But v rewarding once you're there.
In reply to LastBoyScout:
No wonder scout groups have a dubious reputation for navigational ability.
> but took completely the wrong path from the car park - I'd been there before, but a good few years before and memory a bit hazy.
> Waste of a couple of hours trying to find the bloody thing - don't think the Scouts were too impressed!
No wonder scout groups have a dubious reputation for navigational ability.
In reply to JEF:
No, that's the crag...
> Another that I'd blanked from my mind; Symonds Yat. We thought we'd follow the "path" as shown in the guide book. It took us down a very steep, muddy and slippery gorge.
No, that's the crag...
10
In reply to Rog Wilko:
One of our scouts recently said "I'm going nowhere we can't sat nav to", sadly I think he meant it.
> No wonder scout groups have a dubious reputation for navigational ability.
One of our scouts recently said "I'm going nowhere we can't sat nav to", sadly I think he meant it.
In reply to Dave Garnett:
That'll teach them, the feckers!
> Multiple children being forced to climb to build their characters.
That'll teach them, the feckers!
2
In reply to JEF:
Worst walk-in?
One of the climbing areas in Monserrat. Walk in was early in the season and they have these bushes there with very long sharp spines that interlock. To save my face I had arms in front of me, so by the time I arrived at the base of the cliff I was shredded and bleeding profusely.
We then started up the cliff to the belay ledge, experiencing entertainment including, but not limited to: lots of flora that had to be hacked through, several rockfalls, a dubious and winding path, and 30 degree heat.
Got to the top to find we were in the wrong place, separated from our target by a chasm lined with tottering grot, and the only way to get to where we wanted to go was descend and start again.
On the way down one of our party stepped on a large (car sized) boulder which proceeded to slide gracefully down the slope with him on top. He was unhappy about this. Well, at least it cleared a clear - if steep - path.
Worst walk-in?
One of the climbing areas in Monserrat. Walk in was early in the season and they have these bushes there with very long sharp spines that interlock. To save my face I had arms in front of me, so by the time I arrived at the base of the cliff I was shredded and bleeding profusely.
We then started up the cliff to the belay ledge, experiencing entertainment including, but not limited to: lots of flora that had to be hacked through, several rockfalls, a dubious and winding path, and 30 degree heat.
Got to the top to find we were in the wrong place, separated from our target by a chasm lined with tottering grot, and the only way to get to where we wanted to go was descend and start again.
On the way down one of our party stepped on a large (car sized) boulder which proceeded to slide gracefully down the slope with him on top. He was unhappy about this. Well, at least it cleared a clear - if steep - path.
Post edited at 17:03
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In reply to JEF:
Can't decide between the walk from the car parks to Climb Newcastle through the Byker Wall or to Newcastle Climbing Centre which crosses a road. Must be at least 2 minutes to either. (Both of these count as crags to me in the winter and bad weather BTW)
Can't decide between the walk from the car parks to Climb Newcastle through the Byker Wall or to Newcastle Climbing Centre which crosses a road. Must be at least 2 minutes to either. (Both of these count as crags to me in the winter and bad weather BTW)
1
In reply to John_Hat:
I've done this sort of futile bhundu bashing in search of the Lost Route so many times; Rocklands, Grampians, hiking for hours to the wrong koppie in Zimbabwe, taking all day to find the Valdu di Saltu boulders in Corsica (and then finding they were mostly covered in moss), hopeless uphill thrashing through forested hillsides in Provence and Vercors... Then there was the time we scoured about ten miles of the culm coast in search of a route called Silver Surfer- only discover that it had already fallen down.
More recently; randomly wandering about in the Anza Borrego desert on my own for about three hours, searching for 'the best boulder problem in Southern California' based on a vague description of the area and the photo on the front of the guide. I finally found it - and then couldn't do it, at least partly because I was so dehydrated.
> Got to the top to find we were in the wrong place, separated from our target by a chasm lined with tottering grot, and the only way to get to where we wanted to go was descend and start again.
I've done this sort of futile bhundu bashing in search of the Lost Route so many times; Rocklands, Grampians, hiking for hours to the wrong koppie in Zimbabwe, taking all day to find the Valdu di Saltu boulders in Corsica (and then finding they were mostly covered in moss), hopeless uphill thrashing through forested hillsides in Provence and Vercors... Then there was the time we scoured about ten miles of the culm coast in search of a route called Silver Surfer- only discover that it had already fallen down.
More recently; randomly wandering about in the Anza Borrego desert on my own for about three hours, searching for 'the best boulder problem in Southern California' based on a vague description of the area and the photo on the front of the guide. I finally found it - and then couldn't do it, at least partly because I was so dehydrated.
1
In reply to JEF:
Which one to pick out. Wanted to do Unicorn and called a friend living in that area who said he was up for it. Drove up, the weather was great (and had been for days) and looked forward to doing it the next day. On the day work commitments delayed him so it didn't happen. His son was available the next day, but there was rain due from lunch time. Walked up the steep ascent of some 2000 feet with a fairly early start. As we approached it seemed we might be lucky but just as we got to the start the first drops of rain arrived. Far longer approaches done, but at least I got routes done. And then there were all the alpine starts for routes that didn't happen.
Which one to pick out. Wanted to do Unicorn and called a friend living in that area who said he was up for it. Drove up, the weather was great (and had been for days) and looked forward to doing it the next day. On the day work commitments delayed him so it didn't happen. His son was available the next day, but there was rain due from lunch time. Walked up the steep ascent of some 2000 feet with a fairly early start. As we approached it seemed we might be lucky but just as we got to the start the first drops of rain arrived. Far longer approaches done, but at least I got routes done. And then there were all the alpine starts for routes that didn't happen.
In reply to JEF:
Shorn Cliff is a bit of a pain, 30 minutes walk in but I guess it's nothing compared to stuff in Europe/US
Shorn Cliff is a bit of a pain, 30 minutes walk in but I guess it's nothing compared to stuff in Europe/US
In reply to summo:
Indeed You make a valid point that skis are not always appropriate of course, and the comment above was somewhat tongue in cheek! I've done the lurcher's approach in the snow without - miserable.
> You are right, provided that you can climb with them on your pack as I wouldn't fancy a long route up post face with a set of skis, or are heading out same way. Blades are compromise, but often the worst of all worlds. These days, no I've got my skiing sorted, axed and crampons rarely go in the car without skis, and vice versa.
> On meggie, you could of course ski to the top, leave skis, down the gully and climb up, ski off.
Indeed You make a valid point that skis are not always appropriate of course, and the comment above was somewhat tongue in cheek! I've done the lurcher's approach in the snow without - miserable.
In reply to springfall2008:
Seriously??
> Shorn Cliff is a bit of a pain, 30 minutes walk in but I guess it's nothing compared to stuff in Europe/US
Seriously??
5
In reply to springfall2008:
and your the Moderator for it!!!
> Shorn Cliff is a bit of a pain, 30 minutes walk in but I guess it's nothing compared to stuff in Europe/US
and your the Moderator for it!!!
1
In reply to JEF: Kilnsey is quite tough. But not as arduous as Malham. Well, the catwalk. The upper tier is Himalayan in difficulty.
Andy F
Andy F
5
In reply to JEF:
The walk into the Lurcher's Crag in crap conditions last year was a bit emotional after 4 days on the trot. Awesome climbs though!
The walk into the Lurcher's Crag in crap conditions last year was a bit emotional after 4 days on the trot. Awesome climbs though!
In reply to springfall2008:
30 minutes walk in??!! That's practically a roadside crag in my book.
> Shorn Cliff is a bit of a pain, 30 minutes walk in
30 minutes walk in??!! That's practically a roadside crag in my book.
6
In reply to Tall Clare:
i have a similar story - although it involved an overnight bivy with the rain starting at midnight....
i have a similar story - although it involved an overnight bivy with the rain starting at midnight....
In reply to Rylstone_Cowboy:
99 % of the walk in to Shorncliffe is on well made forestry tracks, but the last 1% can be hell if you somehow stray of the better approach tracks and end up hacking up muddy slopes through the brambles.
Not really a contender for worst walk in really.
99 % of the walk in to Shorncliffe is on well made forestry tracks, but the last 1% can be hell if you somehow stray of the better approach tracks and end up hacking up muddy slopes through the brambles.
Not really a contender for worst walk in really.
In reply to JEF:
Rhylstone one time. Not so much the 40 trog from the car, more the perfect sequence of us walking uphill, heavens opening, sighing, walking back down again...
Rhylstone one time. Not so much the 40 trog from the car, more the perfect sequence of us walking uphill, heavens opening, sighing, walking back down again...
In reply to JEF:
Not so much as the worst walk-in but worst walk-out. When I was 15yrs old and had just moved to Sennen, Cornwall, and was highball bouldering on the short crag between Gwenvor beach and Whitesands beach, I took a jump for what looked like a flat grassy ledge, but the ledge was just two boulders covered with flattened grass from the heavy rain, and my left leg fell between the two boulders and broke my fibula. The crawl back up the steep slope to the top of the cliff was horrendous, and then I had to ride my bike one-legged home to eventually go to the hospital for a plaster leg cast.
Not so much as the worst walk-in but worst walk-out. When I was 15yrs old and had just moved to Sennen, Cornwall, and was highball bouldering on the short crag between Gwenvor beach and Whitesands beach, I took a jump for what looked like a flat grassy ledge, but the ledge was just two boulders covered with flattened grass from the heavy rain, and my left leg fell between the two boulders and broke my fibula. The crawl back up the steep slope to the top of the cliff was horrendous, and then I had to ride my bike one-legged home to eventually go to the hospital for a plaster leg cast.
4
In reply to JEF:
Another walk out. Returning from An Teallach in the dark, and trying to find a way through the Rhododendrons when you know the car is so close you can practically touch it.
Another walk out. Returning from An Teallach in the dark, and trying to find a way through the Rhododendrons when you know the car is so close you can practically touch it.
Post edited at 11:02
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In reply to Kevster:
Ceuse for belay duty after 9 days on. That walk never gets nicer...
> Ceuse on hot day.
> You can't carry enough water!
Ceuse for belay duty after 9 days on. That walk never gets nicer...
1
In reply to johnjohn:
Reminds me of a time I went to Rylstone in a group outing. The guy I was paired up was an infernal ditherer. Everybody else in the group had set off on the walk in while I was hanging about in the layby waiting another 15 minutes for this guy to get his act together. When we did eventually set off we got about 100 metres up the road he realised he'd forgotten something and went off back to his car. Then on the walk in he wanted to stop for a rest for 15 minutes. It was a beautiful summer day and I was champing at the bit to get going at one of my very favourite crags and found this whole palaver incredibly frustrating. The best is yet to come however. When we finally did get to the crag, the guy plonked himself down and announced "Right, time for lunch".
> Rhylstone one time. Not so much the 40 trog from the car, more the perfect sequence of us walking uphill, heavens opening, sighing, walking back down again...
Reminds me of a time I went to Rylstone in a group outing. The guy I was paired up was an infernal ditherer. Everybody else in the group had set off on the walk in while I was hanging about in the layby waiting another 15 minutes for this guy to get his act together. When we did eventually set off we got about 100 metres up the road he realised he'd forgotten something and went off back to his car. Then on the walk in he wanted to stop for a rest for 15 minutes. It was a beautiful summer day and I was champing at the bit to get going at one of my very favourite crags and found this whole palaver incredibly frustrating. The best is yet to come however. When we finally did get to the crag, the guy plonked himself down and announced "Right, time for lunch".
Post edited at 13:05
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In reply to Rylstone_Cowboy:
It doesn't feel it when you are worn out from a full days climbing - that's 30 minutes up hill with no stops after you have come down off the crag onto the track.
I know I'm a spoilt lazy git - Wintours Leap Flywall is roadside!
> 30 minutes walk in??!! That's practically a roadside crag in my book.
It doesn't feel it when you are worn out from a full days climbing - that's 30 minutes up hill with no stops after you have come down off the crag onto the track.
I know I'm a spoilt lazy git - Wintours Leap Flywall is roadside!
In reply to JEF:
Walking in to the sphinx in cordillera blanca. After half a day on buses, followed the wrong valley uphill at altitude for ages to the campsite, only to see the sphinx from three valleys away once we were high enough and darkness was setting in. Apologies to my climbing partner for not trying get to the base of it in the dark like he wanted...
Walking in to the sphinx in cordillera blanca. After half a day on buses, followed the wrong valley uphill at altitude for ages to the campsite, only to see the sphinx from three valleys away once we were high enough and darkness was setting in. Apologies to my climbing partner for not trying get to the base of it in the dark like he wanted...
In reply to JEF:
Hagg Wood, North Yorkshire could be worth a shout but not because of distance. If you lose the feint deer track up through the woods you are in trouble. I had been there several times before but have on more than one occasion since been unable to locate the crag. I know from discussing its merits that I am not alone in this.
Hagg Wood, North Yorkshire could be worth a shout but not because of distance. If you lose the feint deer track up through the woods you are in trouble. I had been there several times before but have on more than one occasion since been unable to locate the crag. I know from discussing its merits that I am not alone in this.
In reply to JEF:
Mine was neither a long nor normally difficult approach however...
A couple of years ago a few friends and I were heading out to Lundy for a week and as was expected when they came to pick me up I had hardly packed. Anyway quick pack of bag out of the house and into the car. After about an hour heading down towards Ilfracombe I realised I had packed all except a pair of approach shoes or anything even similar.
So anyway I spent my week on Lundy wandering around and approaching some of the abseils (down some pretty steep grass slopes to the edge of the cliff) with a pair of deck shoes which are definitely not known for being particularly grippy or sturdy...
Anyway, still some of the best climbing of my life and I can’t wait to go back (with a pair of approach shoes)
Mine was neither a long nor normally difficult approach however...
A couple of years ago a few friends and I were heading out to Lundy for a week and as was expected when they came to pick me up I had hardly packed. Anyway quick pack of bag out of the house and into the car. After about an hour heading down towards Ilfracombe I realised I had packed all except a pair of approach shoes or anything even similar.
So anyway I spent my week on Lundy wandering around and approaching some of the abseils (down some pretty steep grass slopes to the edge of the cliff) with a pair of deck shoes which are definitely not known for being particularly grippy or sturdy...
Anyway, still some of the best climbing of my life and I can’t wait to go back (with a pair of approach shoes)
In reply to JEF:
A special mention for Seana Mheallan Not long, but steep, pathless and through deep tick-infested heather.
Creag an Fhithich was equally memorable. From the end of the track you could hit the crag with a cricket ball, but time still entered another dimension on the boulder-jumbled approach thereafter.
A special mention for Seana Mheallan Not long, but steep, pathless and through deep tick-infested heather.
Creag an Fhithich was equally memorable. From the end of the track you could hit the crag with a cricket ball, but time still entered another dimension on the boulder-jumbled approach thereafter.
Post edited at 11:36
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In reply to JEF:
The Sundial without a doubt. Looks really close to the road, but actually involves a two hour trek through an entire world of prickle bushes so you can't shed layers,. Followed by a steep uphill on loose ground. All for a photo on a route that isn't actually that good but has nice scenery. Theres only 4 routes there and we managed to get lost on both the way in and the way out.
I've still not recovered emotionally but at least it's become an automatic reply to any walk in complaints. i.e. Its not as bad as the sundial.
Or theres the time we tired to get to the Star Factory on Tasmania... Guidebook description: from here its a twenty minute scrample down to the crag... two hours later we arrive too buggered to climb anything.
Or theres the Homer tunnel slabs in the Darrans ... we had to abseil retreat off the walk in, we didn't even make it to the climbs.
Man British walk in's are tame as
The Sundial without a doubt. Looks really close to the road, but actually involves a two hour trek through an entire world of prickle bushes so you can't shed layers,. Followed by a steep uphill on loose ground. All for a photo on a route that isn't actually that good but has nice scenery. Theres only 4 routes there and we managed to get lost on both the way in and the way out.
I've still not recovered emotionally but at least it's become an automatic reply to any walk in complaints. i.e. Its not as bad as the sundial.
Or theres the time we tired to get to the Star Factory on Tasmania... Guidebook description: from here its a twenty minute scrample down to the crag... two hours later we arrive too buggered to climb anything.
Or theres the Homer tunnel slabs in the Darrans ... we had to abseil retreat off the walk in, we didn't even make it to the climbs.
Man British walk in's are tame as
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In reply to conorcussell:
Or a lot fitter!
One of our party got over taken by a pregnant lady. That was worth the walk in just to see his face.
I believe there's a ski lift up the other side, I suspect it's a better crag for not being road side.
Or a lot fitter!
One of our party got over taken by a pregnant lady. That was worth the walk in just to see his face.
I believe there's a ski lift up the other side, I suspect it's a better crag for not being road side.
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Started up to Beinn Eighe before 4:30am last winter, hoping to be at the base of our route by sunrise. Four and a half hours of breaking trail later, we arrived at the Triple Buttresses, having discovered that it’s perfectly possible for knee-deep bog to hide under thigh-deep powder. I had been in the lead when we hit the bog, and had two sopping wet and increasingly cold feet. We abandoned our plans to try hard, applied emergency foot-warmer packets, soloed Fuselage Gully, and topped out to perfect weather, a spectacular view, and lunch with friends on the ridge — by far the worst walk-in I’ve done, but still one of my favourite hill days ever.
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In reply to JEF:
Raven's Rock near Dingwall many years ago. Set off along the railway line, somewhere near Strathpeffer. Line goes through woodland and more than a few rocky gorges where it's been blasted away to let the train through. Which is where you really don't want to meet a train when you are on foot.
Having survived a close encounter with the train, we eventually found the crag. It was damp, overgrown, boggy and midgie. Didn't even bother to gear up.
On return to the campsite I found dozens of ticks about my person. Yuck, yuck, yuck.
Raven's Rock near Dingwall many years ago. Set off along the railway line, somewhere near Strathpeffer. Line goes through woodland and more than a few rocky gorges where it's been blasted away to let the train through. Which is where you really don't want to meet a train when you are on foot.
Having survived a close encounter with the train, we eventually found the crag. It was damp, overgrown, boggy and midgie. Didn't even bother to gear up.
On return to the campsite I found dozens of ticks about my person. Yuck, yuck, yuck.
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In reply to planetmarshall:
Dundonnell MRT have had a call out for people lost in the Rhododendrons coming off An Teallach - no joke.
Dundonnell MRT have had a call out for people lost in the Rhododendrons coming off An Teallach - no joke.
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In reply to Jamie B:
Yes, while not a long way at all, the Seanna Mheallan approach is a definite winner in the Much More Arduous Than Expected category, for me.
The combination of sweat and 60% heather left me feeling like I'd been tarred and feathered, before we'd even got to the climbing...!
Yes, while not a long way at all, the Seanna Mheallan approach is a definite winner in the Much More Arduous Than Expected category, for me.
The combination of sweat and 60% heather left me feeling like I'd been tarred and feathered, before we'd even got to the climbing...!
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In reply to JEF:
even though I have been there a lot, and even though It's far from the longest walk in ever, I would have to put forward Huntsham Boulders. In the Summer it is absolutely overgrown with brambles to the point where some boulders are nigh on inaccessible bar for those with a stern will (I am looking at you, cube boulder) and in winter the steep slopes become mudslides. I do not remember a time when I have been there in winter and not ended up on my face on the walk in and my arse on the walk back. I spent about an hour charging through bushes and brambles off-piste one summer to attempt to echolocate the shadowlands boulder (which you can see easily from bivi buttress, making it all the more frustrating) with no joy.
Luckily the boulders are excellent and in nice clearings which makes it my favourite crag.
even though I have been there a lot, and even though It's far from the longest walk in ever, I would have to put forward Huntsham Boulders. In the Summer it is absolutely overgrown with brambles to the point where some boulders are nigh on inaccessible bar for those with a stern will (I am looking at you, cube boulder) and in winter the steep slopes become mudslides. I do not remember a time when I have been there in winter and not ended up on my face on the walk in and my arse on the walk back. I spent about an hour charging through bushes and brambles off-piste one summer to attempt to echolocate the shadowlands boulder (which you can see easily from bivi buttress, making it all the more frustrating) with no joy.
Luckily the boulders are excellent and in nice clearings which makes it my favourite crag.
In reply to JEF:
The walk in to Coire an t'Sneachda in winter because I loathe the carpark and I loathe the crowds and I loathe myself for failing to end up somewhere else. Won't ever be doing it again then...........
The walk in to Coire an t'Sneachda in winter because I loathe the carpark and I loathe the crowds and I loathe myself for failing to end up somewhere else. Won't ever be doing it again then...........
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1
In reply to Goucho:
Carnmore immediately came to mind when I saw this thread. I've lost count of the number of times I've tried to climb here but the weather has always been against us. Even if you get a promising start to the day , it will be raining later. Or else the river at Shenavall will be unfordable! My other nemesis is Beinn Shuas and Ardverikie Wall!
Oh! Chris didn't forget the midges, because they are always there...!
Carnmore immediately came to mind when I saw this thread. I've lost count of the number of times I've tried to climb here but the weather has always been against us. Even if you get a promising start to the day , it will be raining later. Or else the river at Shenavall will be unfordable! My other nemesis is Beinn Shuas and Ardverikie Wall!
Oh! Chris didn't forget the midges, because they are always there...!
Post edited at 20:08
In reply to Sean Kelly:
A mate and I went to do Blues Riff in Tulomne Meadows, we took a wrong turn and sort of got committed on a total bush-whack. My mate was uncharacteristically desolate but managed to lead it whilst grumbling. On another trip, the first time we went to try to aid Half Dome, fresh from British cragging we slogged up over Death slabs with portaledge and all our nonsense aid kit, food and, since we didn't know if the spring was running, loads of heavy water. On arrival, the spring was in full flow. We knelt to fill a bottle each and while kneeling a tv sized rock fizzed down and ripped off a rucksack hanging off one shoulder of my partner. He was so spooked that we walked all the way back to campsite. We took the path.
A mate and I went to do Blues Riff in Tulomne Meadows, we took a wrong turn and sort of got committed on a total bush-whack. My mate was uncharacteristically desolate but managed to lead it whilst grumbling. On another trip, the first time we went to try to aid Half Dome, fresh from British cragging we slogged up over Death slabs with portaledge and all our nonsense aid kit, food and, since we didn't know if the spring was running, loads of heavy water. On arrival, the spring was in full flow. We knelt to fill a bottle each and while kneeling a tv sized rock fizzed down and ripped off a rucksack hanging off one shoulder of my partner. He was so spooked that we walked all the way back to campsite. We took the path.
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In reply to pencilled in:
I didnt realise they were called the Death Slabs. That might explain my worst walk in experience higher up...
I didnt realise they were called the Death Slabs. That might explain my worst walk in experience higher up...
In reply to Sean Kelly:
The walk in to Carnmore is magnificent. Just check the forecast........
> Carnmore immediately came to mind when I saw this thread.
The walk in to Carnmore is magnificent. Just check the forecast........
Post edited at 23:18
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In reply to JEF:
Well now.
On one of those typical January weekends, not cold enough for snow and ice but grey, damp and discouraging, a friend and I, experienced alpine climbers both, planned to climb a gully on Scafell, possibly Slingsby's Chimney Route (VD). When we arrived at the head of Borrowdale we discovered we had neither map nor compass and the mist was down almost to our ankles. These were the days when the passion to do something burned more brightly than the rather more sensible desire to stay in the pub and, not discouraged by our lack of any navigational equipment, we shouldered rucksacks heavy with climbing gear and set off aiming for the Corridor route to Scafell crag.
After a couple of hours when the certainty that instinct and memory would guide us the right way was gradually replaced by the certainty that we'd gone the wrong way, we arrived at a summit where sensible people were sitting. Unembarrassed, we asked them where they thought we were; it turned out to be the summit of Scafell Pike. After a minor 'wtf?' moment and a bite to eat, we set off in essentially zero visibility on the path to Scafell. That path was clear, at first, then it and we parted somewhere. We pressed on, knowing that it couldn't be too far away and that the crag would be close at hand, twenty minutes or so should see us there.
After forty minutes or so we admitted to ourselves that we hadn't a clue where we were. It was with a sense of inevitability that when, a little later on, we approached a group of people gathered by a familiar summit that we were back on top of Scafell Pike. At this point better judgement prevailed and we decided to head back to the car.
However, the day was not done with us. On the way down, we took a right turn somewhere we shouldn't have and found ourselves out of the mist looking down at the valley of Langstrath. After a brief bout of cursing, we accepted that walking out down the valley and then back up Borrowdale to the car was marginally better than heading back into the mist to find the right way. So down we went.
Langstrath is, as the name might suggest, a fair walk from the top to the bottom and the walk back up Borrowdale to the car seemed a fair way too, burdened as we were with heavy climbing sacks and after a long walk where we'd achieved nothing we intended, only had any idea where we were in the mist when other people told us and had come down entirely the wrong way. We had, I think, been the first of our group to get going that morning and we were the last to get back; tired in body and spirit, a pint has rarely tasted as sweet as the first one did that evening.
T.
Well now.
On one of those typical January weekends, not cold enough for snow and ice but grey, damp and discouraging, a friend and I, experienced alpine climbers both, planned to climb a gully on Scafell, possibly Slingsby's Chimney Route (VD). When we arrived at the head of Borrowdale we discovered we had neither map nor compass and the mist was down almost to our ankles. These were the days when the passion to do something burned more brightly than the rather more sensible desire to stay in the pub and, not discouraged by our lack of any navigational equipment, we shouldered rucksacks heavy with climbing gear and set off aiming for the Corridor route to Scafell crag.
After a couple of hours when the certainty that instinct and memory would guide us the right way was gradually replaced by the certainty that we'd gone the wrong way, we arrived at a summit where sensible people were sitting. Unembarrassed, we asked them where they thought we were; it turned out to be the summit of Scafell Pike. After a minor 'wtf?' moment and a bite to eat, we set off in essentially zero visibility on the path to Scafell. That path was clear, at first, then it and we parted somewhere. We pressed on, knowing that it couldn't be too far away and that the crag would be close at hand, twenty minutes or so should see us there.
After forty minutes or so we admitted to ourselves that we hadn't a clue where we were. It was with a sense of inevitability that when, a little later on, we approached a group of people gathered by a familiar summit that we were back on top of Scafell Pike. At this point better judgement prevailed and we decided to head back to the car.
However, the day was not done with us. On the way down, we took a right turn somewhere we shouldn't have and found ourselves out of the mist looking down at the valley of Langstrath. After a brief bout of cursing, we accepted that walking out down the valley and then back up Borrowdale to the car was marginally better than heading back into the mist to find the right way. So down we went.
Langstrath is, as the name might suggest, a fair walk from the top to the bottom and the walk back up Borrowdale to the car seemed a fair way too, burdened as we were with heavy climbing sacks and after a long walk where we'd achieved nothing we intended, only had any idea where we were in the mist when other people told us and had come down entirely the wrong way. We had, I think, been the first of our group to get going that morning and we were the last to get back; tired in body and spirit, a pint has rarely tasted as sweet as the first one did that evening.
T.
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In reply to JEF:
Three of us spent a couple of months prepping for a 3 week trip around Scotland, starting in the Cairngorms and working our way up to Stoer via Skye (we planned to visit the Talisker distillery on my 30th). All was very well with the world.
On the morning we left, one of the party dropped out; so two of us drove up, walked in to Squareface and bivvied out to climb in the morning. The dream was being lived. We woke to a fair sprinkling of rain but nothing too treacherous and it looked like it might brighten up however, the other chap woke up - looked out of his bivvy, looked me dead in the eye, looked me dead in the eye and didn't even blink and said (and these words still cause awful flashbacks)
"I want to go home."
To which I replied "Fair enough, it is a bit wet. We'll wander back and find a campsite and wait for some sun."
To which he replied... "No... I mean home. I want to go home."
So we walked back to the carpark in the rain and drove back to Birmingham in silence.
This was five years ago; the rift remains an impassable valley between us.
Three of us spent a couple of months prepping for a 3 week trip around Scotland, starting in the Cairngorms and working our way up to Stoer via Skye (we planned to visit the Talisker distillery on my 30th). All was very well with the world.
On the morning we left, one of the party dropped out; so two of us drove up, walked in to Squareface and bivvied out to climb in the morning. The dream was being lived. We woke to a fair sprinkling of rain but nothing too treacherous and it looked like it might brighten up however, the other chap woke up - looked out of his bivvy, looked me dead in the eye, looked me dead in the eye and didn't even blink and said (and these words still cause awful flashbacks)
"I want to go home."
To which I replied "Fair enough, it is a bit wet. We'll wander back and find a campsite and wait for some sun."
To which he replied... "No... I mean home. I want to go home."
So we walked back to the carpark in the rain and drove back to Birmingham in silence.
This was five years ago; the rift remains an impassable valley between us.
Post edited at 18:45
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In reply to Pursued by a bear:
Last year we had a weekend in Wasdale, it rained, so on the Saturday we attempted Piers Ghyll. We escaped and survived only to be washed off Pikes Crag. As we sought haven in the Wasdale Inn, six or seven young Indian guys were stumbling about outside. They were obviously "perplexed" so I tried to help. Despite their summer dress they explained they had just summitted Scafell Pike and had arrange to meet their lift back to London in the pub carpark. I asked which pub ? Although they couldn't remember its name, when I suggested The Old Dungeon Ghyll they remembered that was its name. When I explained they were the wrong side of the mountain they were crestfallen. They had no cash on them and the pub had stopped serving food. In fairness to the Wasdale staff, they took charge and after failing to connect with the lift at the ODG,they arranged a taxi. My greatest memory was when the taxi driver eventually arrived from Keswick and explained it was the second time he had performed this "rescue" that day.
Last year we had a weekend in Wasdale, it rained, so on the Saturday we attempted Piers Ghyll. We escaped and survived only to be washed off Pikes Crag. As we sought haven in the Wasdale Inn, six or seven young Indian guys were stumbling about outside. They were obviously "perplexed" so I tried to help. Despite their summer dress they explained they had just summitted Scafell Pike and had arrange to meet their lift back to London in the pub carpark. I asked which pub ? Although they couldn't remember its name, when I suggested The Old Dungeon Ghyll they remembered that was its name. When I explained they were the wrong side of the mountain they were crestfallen. They had no cash on them and the pub had stopped serving food. In fairness to the Wasdale staff, they took charge and after failing to connect with the lift at the ODG,they arranged a taxi. My greatest memory was when the taxi driver eventually arrived from Keswick and explained it was the second time he had performed this "rescue" that day.
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