In reply to UKC News:
Great work by Pete on the first ascent of this important new line!
From having tried Something for Nothing myself, it is definitely a step up from Cry Freedom, although its worth noting that when it exits that route to go right up the hanging arete, there are still 7 or so awkward, tiring moves up the vague corner to reach the kneebar before the upper crux of Cry Freedom. Therefore, while the crux on Cry Freedom is significantly easier (anything from V6 - V8 depending greatly on your reach), it is higher. This is counterbalanced by the kneebar rest, which is pretty good, depending on how comfortable you are recovering in them. Something for Nothing has no rest before its crux other than the shakeout and heel rest at the tufa on Cry Freedom, just before it leaves that route, which is at best indifferent (depending on how much of an endurance beast you are I guess!)
Time will tell on the grades of these routes. Cry Freedom has to be an easy 8c. I would not object if it went down to 8b+, although it would be the very top of that grade. For me, its certainly way easier than True North at Kilnsey, even taking into account the different style/steepness of the 2 routes. Also, recent hold changes on the upper crux of Cry Freedom in the last few years have made that bit a little easier than it used to be - basically the hold that you go again for with your right hand once you have taken your heel/ toe cam out of the pocket out left is bigger than it used to be (due to the rock crumbling away) and easier to slap to and catch. Also, the first crimp you do the big reach for before the heel/ toe cam goes in (that shorter climbers struggle on) has crumbled a little and got slightly bigger. That said, it all feels desparate when you're pumped out of your brains!
