UKC

I have recently been looking for information on how to best use a symmetrical 45 degree board. I would like to check if I'm structuring my sessions as best as possible for maximum gains. As far as I understand I should pick or set a problem, work it on one side until I climb it then repeat for the other side? Is this thing to do? I could not find any information on how long my sessions should be, does anyone know how long I should spend on it? I also am wondering what my ratio of attempts to rest should look like, although as far as I understand it should be one attempt to a few minutes rest? I'm not sure if I should finish the session feeling tired or as if I could climb for much longer?

Sorry for the bombardment of questions and if they're a bit basic, I couldn't seem to find the information anywhere. If anyone could explain this or point me in the direction of the information I would be very appreciative, thanks in advance!

In reply to Jack McKechnie:

Haven't used one but they're called systems board and were developed by the German Huber brothers. From what I've seen the intensity or difficulty of moves is very high so you'll need to be well warmed up before starting. A rough guide for limit bouldering is 10 times more rest than you were on the wall for so a several minutes between tries sounds about right. I imagine a session length will probably be similar to a campus session. It's generally not best to finish any session tired as it means it just takes longer to recover before the next effective session. But I imagine you'll notice when your max power begins to to decline and won't be that tired then anyway.

In reply to Jack McKechnie:
All the system boards I've seen have been much less steep than your suggested 45degs, probably more like 20 - 25deg.s I'd say. I think I've seen some footage of Ben Moon using one and giving some instruction, but it might have been on a symmetrically set-up Moon Board.

This link might be of interest:

http://www.moonclimbing.com/blog/moon-blog/school/systems-training/

Edit:

A few more links for reference:
https://www.trainingbeta.com/intro-system-board-training/
http://www.climbstrong.com/articles/20131031
youtube.com/watch?v=qD-Ew7MRukk&
vimeo.com/95868985
youtube.com/watch?v=RRO7Hib2zQI& (from about 3:50min)
http://www.durhamclimbingcentre.co.uk/userfiles/images/files/THE%20%20S%20Y...