UKC

Hi, we're heading to Cornwall soon, and if the weather permits, we're planning on a day of sea cliff climbing. We've only just started Trad, have never climbed on sea cliffs, so don't have the confidence to lead trad routes here.
Does anyone know if there's decent access to set up a top rope and then walk down at Bosigran and Halldrine cove?

Any other crags in the area that allow easy top rope set up? Low grade routes are very welcome, we're looking to experience sea cliff climbing, no grade hunting
Thanks all

In reply to two_tapirs:

I don't know about Halldrine Cove, but I think you'd struggle dropping a top rope on anything at Bosigran. It is often quite windy for a start and routes don't just fall in a straight line down the crag as they would at Stanage.
I know you say you wouldn't have the confidence to lead any routes, but if you have even a small amount of gear and some clue how to use it Alison's Rib would be a great place to start leading. If you have enough experience and gear to set up a safe top rope you could lead it. BTW, most of the routes at Bosigran aren't real sea cliff routes as you just walk to the foot of the routes.

In reply to two_tapirs:

I'd recommend Trewavas. Good easy routes, easy to set up top ropes and its .single pitch.
Although again like much of bosigran it's near the sea, rather than a proper sea cliff.

Or you could just do Commando Ridge then lead Alison Rib and have one of the best climbing days of your life

In reply to two_tapirs:

Trewavas is your best bet. Sennen is also a worthwhile but if you can abseil in it will save you a lot of time walking round. I don't think Bosi is a particularly good place for top roping. Haldrine - could be a little awkward getting across to the routes on the left - again you could ab in, but until you know the crag, it's difficult to know where to ab.

In reply to two_tapirs:

I agree about Trewavas Head Main Cliff, it's not really a sea cliff but this is the view you get: http://tinypic.com/r/2gvv4wg/9 and http://tinypic.com/r/2rgnqc3/9

The west facing side has lots of easy routes and it's simple enough to set up top ropes there and walk around.

I can't comment about the other places, sorry.

In reply to two_tapirs:
Haldrine works really well as long as your confident with a bit of scrambling at the top to set up and the bottom to approach the starts of the climbs.

Trewavas is a good shout too, more simple in approach to the top and bottom.

Bosigran itself is probably one to avoid until you're happy leading.

In reply to all:

Thanks everyone for some really useful info, especially that Bosigran isn't too great for setting up top ropes; If the weather is decent we might give Alison Rib a go. We'll certainly check out the other crags too, some lovely looking routes there.

Thanks again, it's appreciated

In reply to two_tapirs:

Pretty easy to get down to the base of Halldrine on the left (looking out). This should give access to at least 4 routes without the traverse to the other side.

As others have said Trewavas is another good bet.

Tom

In reply to two_tapirs:

As others have said, Halldrine is easy enough to set up a top-rope; there is a little bit of faff to locate exactly where you are in relation to the climbs, so it'd be easiest to have one of you at the top setting up and the other already at the bottom to guide them. Do pay attention to the state of the sea: especially if you head toward the left side of the crag, beyond the black slab, the approach scramble does get a little exposed.

If you want some extremely straight forward leading then Alison Rib is a classic (thoughthe final pitch has a tough little wall with an off-width crack that's tricky to start). The right hand routes at Halldrine are excellent for practising leading on; try Nursery corner and then Barnaclet or Geological Groove - they're all very straight forward and, despite being ona sea cliff, you can always lower to the staring ledge (or even escape rightwards).

In reply to two_tapirs:

There are plenty of places you can top rope at Bosigran, but they rely on you picking them as they aren't really routes as such.

In reply to Tom Last:

IMO Sennen is the best place to top rope routes.

In reply to Greasy Prusiks:


Agree up to a point, but till you know the layout of the crag it's pretty well impossible to know which route you are standing at the top of, unless you wait for someone to top out and ask them!

In reply to Rog Wilko:

That's true. I've always had one person at the top setting up the rope and the other at the bottom giving directions.

In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

Sennen may not be a great choice at this time of year. A lot of the cliff faces north west, so won't dry, and the platform at the bottom can be washed by waves.

In reply to Andy2:

And, for my money, the easiest routes at Sennen always feel a touch harder than similarly graded routes at Bosigran or Halldrine.