UKC Forums - Aid climbing beta

Aid climbing beta

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ROSP 15 Nov 2016

Hi,

Could anyone give me any beta on 'The Very Old and the Very New' C2+ in the slate quarries?

Cheers, any info would be much appreciated!

Ross

petegunn 18 Nov 2016

In reply to ROSP:

Have read that some gear is quite thin and may fail a few times before holding. Take lots of rps and a couple of cam hooks for the flake holds.

ROSP 19 Nov 2016

In reply to petegunn:

Cheers for the advice! Went and had ago today - fairly easy until the top, there's a pod surrounded by blankness that's too thin for a cam hook which shut me down, no idea how the hell to get passed that without using a knife blade!

Toerag 21 Nov 2016

In reply to ROSP:

> no idea how the hell to get passed that without using a knife blade!

Ball-nut? Opposed micros(!)?. Do hand placed pegs count as 'clean'?

Post edited at 11:02

Ian Parsons 21 Nov 2016

In reply to Toerag:
With an advertised size range of 3mm to 6mm, I doubt that even the smallest Ball Nut will fit in a crack for which a 3mm camhook is too fat. While Ball Nuts are clearly very useful for more normal blade and upwards crack sizes, knifeblade cracks - ie down to about 1mm - are just too thin.

To the OP: Crack'n'Ups?

Post edited at 12:34

ROSP 21 Nov 2016

In reply to Ian Parsons:

Cheers for the advice. I was thinking a similar thing - using a beak or a filled down DMM #00 micro wire!

jkarran 21 Nov 2016

In reply to ROSP:

A small beak has got to be both smaller and stronger than a #00 brass nut even before you file it plus it'll cam in anything but a straight up-down feature. Also a damnsight easier to get back out if it's a constriction back within the crack/pod you end up hooking.
jk