/ Montserrat in soring-easy sport

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nickh1964 - on 29 Nov 2016
Can anyone help me so I dont have to wade through the individual crag details ? we are looking for easy sport climbing next Easter, say 4 and 5s. Is there much of this in the Montserrat area ? I know that there is loads on Costa Blanca, but a change might be nice.
Thanks if anyone can help.
mrchewy - on 29 Nov 2016
In reply to nickh1964:

There is stuff on the south face but I cant say it's overly exciting at those grades - either straight forward slabs or a hard move to pull on and then a slab. Until you're used to pebble pulling, it always seems rather precarious for the lower grades, even if it isn't.
Not got the guidebook handy, so can't point you to the better bolted areas - some at 5/5+ are still incredibly run out on old skanky bolts.
bedspring on 29 Nov 2016
In reply to nickh1964:

We loved Montserrat, however at those grades I suspect you will soon get bored as it will feel a bit samey. In the 5+/6b range we found some very good climbing.
If you have a week, why not have 3/4 days near Lleida then 3 at Monteserrat. You defoe need more than a day, just to get a feel for the rock and orienatate yourself. I would highly reccomend taking a decent map and compass, and not just relying on the guidebook.
We found all the routes we did were bolted fine. Though I do know that there is some runout stuff in the area.
Simon Caldwell - on 29 Nov 2016
In reply to nickh1964:

We spent 5 days at Montserrat climbing at those grades and there was plenty to do, more than enough for several repeat visits. Grades were rather inconsistent though, and bolting ranged from generous to trad-route-with-a-few-bolts.
Friendliest in terms of both grades and bolts were at Gorros. As some have said, they're all a bit similar so not terribly memorable, though I can still remember the crux pitches on AdriĆ  2 years later`.
Best were Gomez-Xalmet - graded 6a or 5a/A0 but really a trad route (2nd pitch has 2 bolts in 35m), something like HVS if you aid the 1st pitch, E1 otherwise.
and Cavall Bernat Normal route, supposedly 5a but trad gear useful for the main pitch which was about HVS.
AJM - on 29 Nov 2016
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

For easy multipitch I thoroughly enjoyed my trip there. As Kelvin says I'm not sure od go for the easy single pitch because a lot of it was about the cool positions on the towers...

There's a blog linked from my profile where I wrote a bit about it.

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