UKC

Hello everyone

I just bought a beastmaker 2000 but it turns out I have majorly overestimated my strength.
I find I struggle to get through a few sets of repeaters on the biggest holds on it so I find my training only lasts around 20 minutes or less after I've warmed up and surely this isn't really long enough for a decent session.
Do people think im Am I best just pushing through or trying to vary my holds with feet on chairs ect..

In reply to craigycraigo:

Just do what I do and just glance at it on the way to the kitchen. I'm building up to occasionally touching it.

I only bought it to show off at parties but I don't even have any of those any more

In reply to craigycraigo:

To be frank a good session doesn't need to take long, it does need to challenge you at the right level.

It may be easier to see how your doing if you post the sets/reps and rest times on the forum and say what your aiming for (e.g bouldering, sport climbs, long endurance routes).

BW
Alx

In reply to craigycraigo:

What grade do you climb?

In reply to alx:
I haven't really made a program as I'm just feeling it out. Ive played around with repeaters doing 7s on and 4 off x6 on the largest holds I can get through the first set ok the second is a huge struggle and I usually cant finish the third I've tried this on the easiest middle sloper as well with similar results. I havnt even touched anything smaller.

I aiming for sport routes 15m and up really I'm not a boulderer at all.

Greasy prusiks, I climb around 7b/c Ive climbed one 8a and would like to do another but don't have as much time as I used to to train hence the fingerboard

In reply to craigycraigo:

You using the beast maker app? It's a joke to make you feel shit that app. Watch out.

In reply to craigycraigo:

The clever bit about the board and the app is that it is set up around where you want to get to rather than telling you you're great where you are. Stick at it, and it'll get better. No better way out there to build contact strength.

In reply to snoop6060:

There's nothing out there that ruins your confidence more than that app.

In reply to craigycraigo:
Don't worry about the app, but you should be able to use the board better than that. If you climb 7b/c I'm amazed you're that weak. Does it feel warm/greasy? If you can put it up in a garage or cellar out of the heat, that could help a lot.
Otherwise, just mtfu and build up from where you are at. At your past/current level there is no excuse! You'll probably make quite fast gains.

In reply to craigycraigo:

It's supposed to be hard. It gets easier remarkably quickly though. Stick at it and you should see real differences within a couple of weeks.

In reply to craigycraigo:

You're right on the cusp between needing a 1000 and a 2000 by the sounds of it.

Perhaps try swapping with someone who has a 1000? Either that or put a Krab up and put some weight on a rope to lower the difficulty.

I'm no expert but I would have thought if you're knackering yourself using the board it's probably doing its job regardless of how long that takes.

In reply to craigycraigo:

Hangboard guru is much more user friendly.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=8023

In reply to Monk:

its starting to feel a bit easier already probably because its just 'bedding in' than me actually getting any stronger but I think your right I when I'm finished on it I'm pretty tired so its gotta be doing something right

In reply to craigycraigo:

If you feel you need to do more volume the obvious things to do are increase rest times and/or reduce individual set times.