UKC

Replacement of potentially dangerous bolts on Parle, Costa Blanca

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 Sam Mayfield 06 Dec 2016
Sierra de ToixParle (6a+)

Rich finally had time last week to head over to Toix to remove and replace the bolts on Parle.

They have been an issue for a while but he didnt realise just how bad until he went to take a much closer look!

Here is a full report and a small video which shows the state of one bolt as he started to remove it!

http://orangehouseclimbing.blogspot.bg/

He has spoken to DMM and asked if they will take a closer look at the removed bolts so we will be sending them over to Wales.

Rich Mayfield
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 06 Dec 2016
In reply to Sam Mayfield:

Great job done there.

Out of interest, why is Rich sending the bolts to DMM rather than Fixe?


Chris
 The Ivanator 06 Dec 2016
In reply to Sam Mayfield:

Great job Rich, that route is firmly on my wishlist, avoided it last time I was in Costa Blanca due to the reports about decaying bolts.
 Rich Mayfield 06 Dec 2016
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Hi Chris

DMM have helped me out in the past with things like this, and I like DMM.

Rich
 Jim 1003 06 Dec 2016
In reply to Sam Mayfield:

Good job...
 RyanOsborne 06 Dec 2016
In reply to Rich Mayfield:

So was it a stainless hanger with a galvanised bolt? In the sailing world, that kind of thing is quite well known to cause issues, whereas bolters might have been less aware?
 Rich Mayfield 06 Dec 2016
In reply to RyanOsborne:

Looks that way. 8 of the 10 replaced were (although rusted) still very strong, two were not, and they weren't the ones closest to the sea either. I'll know more in a month or so.
 Rick Graham 06 Dec 2016
In reply to Rich Mayfield:

Have you tried out the scrap bits with a magnet or compass?

Most, if not all, climbing Stainless Steels are non magnetic.
 sopaz 06 Dec 2016
In reply to Sam Mayfield:

Excellent job on an amazing route. We did it after your tip off (met you at the base of the Penon the day before) and thoroughly enjoyed it. Generally felt safer than I expected with perhaps one slightly run out bit on the middle pitch (which thankfully I seconded...)

That abseil in however... Intimidating is definitely the right word!
 Rich Mayfield 07 Dec 2016
In reply to Rick Graham:

I didn't know that, I had to look it up. I'm in Bulgaria until after Xmas and the gear is in Spain, but I'll try it when I get back.
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