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I might be slightly early this year however having not climbed anything for a while due to an ankle injury and rain I thought I'd reflect on how the year was for me.
I'd like to hear what others have been up to for a bit of inspiration too.
Started off the year attempting to dry tool, having never done this before I found the M6 'The Warm-Up (D6)' at Masson Lees Quarry very difficult. Difficult but fun though...
Next up was a first time Ice Climbing holiday in Cogne Italy, I've climbed Scottish Winter but never pure water ice, cracking holiday where the weather was incredible every day... Our arms were that knackered we actually wanted a bad weather day to give us an excuse not to get back on the ice! A superb place though with lots of easy graded routes to go at. Highlight of the holiday was the Cascades de Lillaz (WI-3+) which is a 5 minute walk from the car!
In late Feb I went to the Cairgorms for a week where we had mostly excellent weather, lots of easy routes in the Northern Corries, with the highlight being getting the Mrs to climb The Haston Line on straight axes!
I wasn't as luck with winter elsewhere, no real winter routes done outside of Scotland, I did cneifion arete covered in snow but it wasn't 'full on' winter.
In summer I planned a trip to Arran, to hopefully get on South Ridge Direct (VS 5a) however due to poor weather we ended up finding the only bit of sunshine in Scotland on the Isle of Mull. This turned out to be an excellent little place, the climbing was not world class but for an impromptu trip, and having the Erraid Crags to ourselves I couldn't have asked for more! Certainly a place to check out purely for the stunning white beaches.
Our main holiday this year was 2 weeks in Chamonix, great weather again (I swear this has been my luckiest year!), lots of sport routes, mountain routes and some walking. The highlights being Arete des Cosmiques (AD 3) and the three routes on Charlie Boscoe's video sneaker climbing in the Aiguilles Rouges youtube.com/watch?v=eGbtrmVBSmM& - Worth a watch and certainly worth doing if you are there.
Other than this, lots of climbing down in the south west where I live, ticked a few more 'classic rock' routes around the UK, and I also dabbled with (clean) aiding a route, a skill which I think has some use, especially in the Alps where you could get yourself out of trouble with it.
My last notable trip was to Bosigran where I got incredibly pumped on Anvil Chorus (VS 4c) after a long day of climbing. The next day was my 30th Birthday where I twisted my ankle badly (soft tissue only according to the xray) on the walk into the crag!
Next years wish list:
South Ridge Direct - Arran
More classic rock
Ice climbing in La Grave
Summer dolomites - long rock routes
No more ankle injuries!
I'd like to hear what others have been up to for a bit of inspiration too.
Started off the year attempting to dry tool, having never done this before I found the M6 'The Warm-Up (D6)' at Masson Lees Quarry very difficult. Difficult but fun though...
Next up was a first time Ice Climbing holiday in Cogne Italy, I've climbed Scottish Winter but never pure water ice, cracking holiday where the weather was incredible every day... Our arms were that knackered we actually wanted a bad weather day to give us an excuse not to get back on the ice! A superb place though with lots of easy graded routes to go at. Highlight of the holiday was the Cascades de Lillaz (WI-3+) which is a 5 minute walk from the car!
In late Feb I went to the Cairgorms for a week where we had mostly excellent weather, lots of easy routes in the Northern Corries, with the highlight being getting the Mrs to climb The Haston Line on straight axes!
I wasn't as luck with winter elsewhere, no real winter routes done outside of Scotland, I did cneifion arete covered in snow but it wasn't 'full on' winter.
In summer I planned a trip to Arran, to hopefully get on South Ridge Direct (VS 5a) however due to poor weather we ended up finding the only bit of sunshine in Scotland on the Isle of Mull. This turned out to be an excellent little place, the climbing was not world class but for an impromptu trip, and having the Erraid Crags to ourselves I couldn't have asked for more! Certainly a place to check out purely for the stunning white beaches.
Our main holiday this year was 2 weeks in Chamonix, great weather again (I swear this has been my luckiest year!), lots of sport routes, mountain routes and some walking. The highlights being Arete des Cosmiques (AD 3) and the three routes on Charlie Boscoe's video sneaker climbing in the Aiguilles Rouges youtube.com/watch?v=eGbtrmVBSmM& - Worth a watch and certainly worth doing if you are there.
Other than this, lots of climbing down in the south west where I live, ticked a few more 'classic rock' routes around the UK, and I also dabbled with (clean) aiding a route, a skill which I think has some use, especially in the Alps where you could get yourself out of trouble with it.
My last notable trip was to Bosigran where I got incredibly pumped on Anvil Chorus (VS 4c) after a long day of climbing. The next day was my 30th Birthday where I twisted my ankle badly (soft tissue only according to the xray) on the walk into the crag!
Next years wish list:
South Ridge Direct - Arran
More classic rock
Ice climbing in La Grave
Summer dolomites - long rock routes
No more ankle injuries!
5
1
In reply to BStar:
I started with a broken knee last Christmas, followed by 9 months waiting for surgery and still in recovery now... roll on 2017, can't be much worse!
I started with a broken knee last Christmas, followed by 9 months waiting for surgery and still in recovery now... roll on 2017, can't be much worse!
1
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In reply to BStar:
Started dating a climbing partner. A February week in the Cairngorms followed by a week in the Lakes winter climbing. Ton's of fun cragging and multipitch at some interesting venues like Beeston Tor. Did some route cleaning for fun. Knocked a good bunch of routes off my wishlist and did a week in Yosemite on the domes. Jumped up a grade and we're wondering what to plan for next year. Sea stacks and Cuillin are planned.
Started dating a climbing partner. A February week in the Cairngorms followed by a week in the Lakes winter climbing. Ton's of fun cragging and multipitch at some interesting venues like Beeston Tor. Did some route cleaning for fun. Knocked a good bunch of routes off my wishlist and did a week in Yosemite on the domes. Jumped up a grade and we're wondering what to plan for next year. Sea stacks and Cuillin are planned.
5
In reply to BStar:
The year started off with some superb mountain days, doing Ledge Route then continuing around the horseshoe ticking off the summits on a beautifully clear sunny day.
Soloing 120 routes in a day for a warm up to see what soloing 100 extremes would feel like ( planned for the summer)
Come March, doing Steep Gyhll on Scafell and Orion Direct on the Ben, both on glorious clear blue sky sunny days.
Rock climbing on Scafell in that warm dry spell not long after with good friends.
Having a week climbing in the south Dartmoor, Chudleigh and Swanage and a weeks climbing in the north, Diabeg Pillar and Reiff.
A friend then came up with the idea that he wanted to have a go at a Bob Graham round, so started doing a few runs and bought some proper shoes (sportiva mutants, superb shoes) and did some of the legs. Unfortunately due to conflicting holidays my friend couldn't do it so as I'd put in 10 days of training! spotted a good weather day and did it solo, getting round in 22.13 hrs.
A much needed holiday and family wedding in Mauritius, climbing some of the small but very alpine mountains with days on the beach.
The Bobby G took its toll though, had to go into hospital twice, 1st was a kidney stone that got stuck on its way out, think of a hose pipe with a twist in it and then put the tap on full! And an eye infection that if not treated can cause blindness. Between these two stays in hospital I ran my first half marathon.
Lately been lucky to have been involved with some climbing photography using one of the original Abraham brothers cameras, Henry Iddon, a top bloke, taking the shots. The exhibition will be held in Keswick in the new year. All in all a super year, looking forward to 2017 and maybe look agian at the 100 extremes challenge.
The year started off with some superb mountain days, doing Ledge Route then continuing around the horseshoe ticking off the summits on a beautifully clear sunny day.
Soloing 120 routes in a day for a warm up to see what soloing 100 extremes would feel like ( planned for the summer)
Come March, doing Steep Gyhll on Scafell and Orion Direct on the Ben, both on glorious clear blue sky sunny days.
Rock climbing on Scafell in that warm dry spell not long after with good friends.
Having a week climbing in the south Dartmoor, Chudleigh and Swanage and a weeks climbing in the north, Diabeg Pillar and Reiff.
A friend then came up with the idea that he wanted to have a go at a Bob Graham round, so started doing a few runs and bought some proper shoes (sportiva mutants, superb shoes) and did some of the legs. Unfortunately due to conflicting holidays my friend couldn't do it so as I'd put in 10 days of training! spotted a good weather day and did it solo, getting round in 22.13 hrs.
A much needed holiday and family wedding in Mauritius, climbing some of the small but very alpine mountains with days on the beach.
The Bobby G took its toll though, had to go into hospital twice, 1st was a kidney stone that got stuck on its way out, think of a hose pipe with a twist in it and then put the tap on full! And an eye infection that if not treated can cause blindness. Between these two stays in hospital I ran my first half marathon.
Lately been lucky to have been involved with some climbing photography using one of the original Abraham brothers cameras, Henry Iddon, a top bloke, taking the shots. The exhibition will be held in Keswick in the new year. All in all a super year, looking forward to 2017 and maybe look agian at the 100 extremes challenge.
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In reply to BStar:
I've heard good things about Erraid. When you talk about the climbing, do you just mean that the routes are short?
I've heard good things about Erraid. When you talk about the climbing, do you just mean that the routes are short?
In reply to Michael Gordon:
Yes, nothing over 10m from memory. The routes I did there were good, all very short and steep, but nothibg that I considered to be outstanding. Beautiful place though.
Yes, nothing over 10m from memory. The routes I did there were good, all very short and steep, but nothibg that I considered to be outstanding. Beautiful place though.
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In reply to BStar:
I have climbed every year for 40 years, but this may the first year I miss due to injuries sustained in a fall last Boxing Day.
Pulling out all the stops to try and get fit enough to allow someone to winch me up a Stanage Mod. in the next couple of weeks.
I have climbed every year for 40 years, but this may the first year I miss due to injuries sustained in a fall last Boxing Day.
Pulling out all the stops to try and get fit enough to allow someone to winch me up a Stanage Mod. in the next couple of weeks.
5
In reply to Fredt:
Climbed outside 90+ days this year in 9 different countries.
Gone up a bouldering grade and a few sport grades.
Climbed my first few 4000m peaks
Got scared on don Quixote on the Marmolada (but made it to the top with no falls).
Learned how to crack climb in Orco.
Learned how to kneebar at volx.
It's been a good year...
Climbed outside 90+ days this year in 9 different countries.
Gone up a bouldering grade and a few sport grades.
Climbed my first few 4000m peaks
Got scared on don Quixote on the Marmolada (but made it to the top with no falls).
Learned how to crack climb in Orco.
Learned how to kneebar at volx.
It's been a good year...
3
In reply to BStar:
Snowdon horseshoe twice! once camping and once in a nice hotel. Scrambled up Tryfan as well which was great.
Really got into outdoor climbing having had the gear sat doing nothing for a year before. Climbed lots of sport routes around the peak district, had one uneventful but still gut wrenching fall! (my second ever).
Camped in the lake district and did some great hikes around there and a bit of scrambling...
Did the full 60 days of insanity max 30 1.5 times and then got a tooth infection which led to me having not done intense cardio for about 7 weeks (tooth ache then exams then laziness!)
Cheap work shoes have now lead to a bruised and swollen foot which hurts all the time so hoping that gets better soon... and I'm investing in some weights and a bench for xmas because why not!
Next year hoping to go camping every month or so to Lake district/Snowdon etc., maybe try wild camping! Would absolutely love to go to the Alps or some continental mountains. I think I want to get into alpine mountaineering but I'm not sure if I know what that entails!
Good year so far, thanks for making me think about it!
Snowdon horseshoe twice! once camping and once in a nice hotel. Scrambled up Tryfan as well which was great.
Really got into outdoor climbing having had the gear sat doing nothing for a year before. Climbed lots of sport routes around the peak district, had one uneventful but still gut wrenching fall! (my second ever).
Camped in the lake district and did some great hikes around there and a bit of scrambling...
Did the full 60 days of insanity max 30 1.5 times and then got a tooth infection which led to me having not done intense cardio for about 7 weeks (tooth ache then exams then laziness!)
Cheap work shoes have now lead to a bruised and swollen foot which hurts all the time so hoping that gets better soon... and I'm investing in some weights and a bench for xmas because why not!
Next year hoping to go camping every month or so to Lake district/Snowdon etc., maybe try wild camping! Would absolutely love to go to the Alps or some continental mountains. I think I want to get into alpine mountaineering but I'm not sure if I know what that entails!
Good year so far, thanks for making me think about it!
In reply to BStar:
The year may not be over yet ... Highlights, just to pick on three:
- some brilliant days out with my kids, including multi-pitch in Wales with my son (thanks to a very kind friend) and Striding Edge with son and daughter
- went camping for the first time for 30 years, twice, and loved it
- by the end of the year I am leading more VDiffs than diffs ( you may laugh but that is a big thing for me).
A good year, with wonderful climbing friends, thank you all xxx
The year may not be over yet ... Highlights, just to pick on three:
- some brilliant days out with my kids, including multi-pitch in Wales with my son (thanks to a very kind friend) and Striding Edge with son and daughter
- went camping for the first time for 30 years, twice, and loved it
- by the end of the year I am leading more VDiffs than diffs ( you may laugh but that is a big thing for me).
A good year, with wonderful climbing friends, thank you all xxx
5
In reply to BStar:
Not done anywhere near as much as I would have liked in many ways. I did however do my first paddle on the tidal Thames which I was very pleased about after almost a year off with a shoulder issue. It was amazing, a totally different view of London and paddling through sunset and back in the dark was great fun. I also managed some snowboarding without falling over all the time and managed to do a proper run not just nursery slopes for the first time.
Not done anywhere near as much as I would have liked in many ways. I did however do my first paddle on the tidal Thames which I was very pleased about after almost a year off with a shoulder issue. It was amazing, a totally different view of London and paddling through sunset and back in the dark was great fun. I also managed some snowboarding without falling over all the time and managed to do a proper run not just nursery slopes for the first time.
In reply to BStar:
Highlights of my year:
Climbing Orogeny (E2 5b) after my mate had backed off it while I was running on about 4 hours of sleep after dropping my car key in my engine bay at some services the night before.
Eagle Front (VS 4c) on a day with a slightly doubtful weather forecast which turned out amazing.
Rake End Wall (VS 4c) with a good friend, one of the best experiences I've ever had.
Cruising up the flake on Little Brown Jug (VS 5a) after failing to get on it 2 years ago.
Riders on the Storm (HVS 5a) doesn't need much saying about it!
Isengard (HVS 5b) didn't half keep going on the crux pitch but was definitely worth it!
Scratch Arete (HVS 5a) on a CC new members meet (coincidentally also getting into the CC which has been on the to do list for a while), worth the drive down from Glasgow just for that, Merlin Direct was a bonus, shame about the rubbish weather the other day.
Pirates of Coigach (HS 4a) is probably the best single pitch route I've climbed in Europe, I'd happily trade Stanage for Reiff.
A trip to Arapiles knocking through loads of the classics (Tannin, Watchtower Crack, Missing Link and Brolga are all in my top 10 now).
This year has been bloody brilliant, not done much hard stuff for various reasons but those are all routes I'll remember for a bloomin' long time! There's an amusing lack of grit/ limestone on there given that I live in Derby and got my first car just over a year ago, maybe I'm not a grit person after all!
Next year:
Learn how to winter climb, get 5 or 6 weekends in Scotland if a work placement in Glasgow happens.
Alps somewhere
Lundy - Should probably think about checking availability of accommodation
Morocco or Wadi Rum are on the cards but I would need to discuss with partners
Highlights of my year:
Climbing Orogeny (E2 5b) after my mate had backed off it while I was running on about 4 hours of sleep after dropping my car key in my engine bay at some services the night before.
Eagle Front (VS 4c) on a day with a slightly doubtful weather forecast which turned out amazing.
Rake End Wall (VS 4c) with a good friend, one of the best experiences I've ever had.
Cruising up the flake on Little Brown Jug (VS 5a) after failing to get on it 2 years ago.
Riders on the Storm (HVS 5a) doesn't need much saying about it!
Isengard (HVS 5b) didn't half keep going on the crux pitch but was definitely worth it!
Scratch Arete (HVS 5a) on a CC new members meet (coincidentally also getting into the CC which has been on the to do list for a while), worth the drive down from Glasgow just for that, Merlin Direct was a bonus, shame about the rubbish weather the other day.
Pirates of Coigach (HS 4a) is probably the best single pitch route I've climbed in Europe, I'd happily trade Stanage for Reiff.
A trip to Arapiles knocking through loads of the classics (Tannin, Watchtower Crack, Missing Link and Brolga are all in my top 10 now).
This year has been bloody brilliant, not done much hard stuff for various reasons but those are all routes I'll remember for a bloomin' long time! There's an amusing lack of grit/ limestone on there given that I live in Derby and got my first car just over a year ago, maybe I'm not a grit person after all!
Next year:
Learn how to winter climb, get 5 or 6 weekends in Scotland if a work placement in Glasgow happens.
Alps somewhere
Lundy - Should probably think about checking availability of accommodation
Morocco or Wadi Rum are on the cards but I would need to discuss with partners
3
In reply to BStar:
Mates 40th birthday in College Valley and environs.
Long weekend in the rough bounds of knoydart.
Week on Harris, mostly family stuff but some walks and a couple of hills on the way up.
Walked from Blair Athol to aviemore over the tops - fantastic.
Little bit of outdoor quarry climbing action in Somerset.
Got back into mountain biking - knocked myself out and broke my hand.
Now well into plotting next year.
Mates 40th birthday in College Valley and environs.
Long weekend in the rough bounds of knoydart.
Week on Harris, mostly family stuff but some walks and a couple of hills on the way up.
Walked from Blair Athol to aviemore over the tops - fantastic.
Little bit of outdoor quarry climbing action in Somerset.
Got back into mountain biking - knocked myself out and broke my hand.
Now well into plotting next year.
In reply to petegunn:
I love it that you did the BG before a half marathon! I like your style! (I'm assuming it was a tedious road event).
I love it that you did the BG before a half marathon! I like your style! (I'm assuming it was a tedious road event).
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In reply to Cobbler:
Yeah I thought that while I had some fitness I would do the Great Cumbrian run.
My time wasn't as good as I hoped, only got out of hospital Saturday afternoon from my kidney stone opp.
Respect to all proper marathon runners for pounding that distance on tarmac.
My legs hurt more from that than the BG!
Yeah I thought that while I had some fitness I would do the Great Cumbrian run.
My time wasn't as good as I hoped, only got out of hospital Saturday afternoon from my kidney stone opp.
Respect to all proper marathon runners for pounding that distance on tarmac.
My legs hurt more from that than the BG!
1
In reply to BStar:
Not as much as I would have liked -
Scotland in Feb - good trip all round. A bit at Wintours Leap, Pembroke and North Wales, inlcuding Silly Arete, a bit over 30 years since I last did it - someone broke a flake off it during that time. 6,000 miles (exactly) on a road bike as of yesterday, which was the target for the year.
Not as much as I would have liked -
Scotland in Feb - good trip all round. A bit at Wintours Leap, Pembroke and North Wales, inlcuding Silly Arete, a bit over 30 years since I last did it - someone broke a flake off it during that time. 6,000 miles (exactly) on a road bike as of yesterday, which was the target for the year.
1
In reply to BStar:
Started off on Trad climbing, exploring Shorn Cliff and revisting Wyndcliff while also going for the odd sports climbing session. I was getting ready to lead my first HVS when my climbing partner injured his finger.
Went off climbing sport with a few random people, and started to realise a really can climb F6b outdoors.
By the time my climbing partner was up to climbing again I was a bit rusty on Trad, so ticked a few more VS routes and re-visited some 6a+ sports routes.
Now the weather is bad we have moved back indoors and F6b is starting to look easy and I finally on-sighted an F6c. Still hoping to climb the odd F7a by the end of the winter season, but it might not happen!
Started off on Trad climbing, exploring Shorn Cliff and revisting Wyndcliff while also going for the odd sports climbing session. I was getting ready to lead my first HVS when my climbing partner injured his finger.
Went off climbing sport with a few random people, and started to realise a really can climb F6b outdoors.
By the time my climbing partner was up to climbing again I was a bit rusty on Trad, so ticked a few more VS routes and re-visited some 6a+ sports routes.
Now the weather is bad we have moved back indoors and F6b is starting to look easy and I finally on-sighted an F6c. Still hoping to climb the odd F7a by the end of the winter season, but it might not happen!
1
In reply to BStar:
Started with a sun baked weekend in Scotland in February ticking classic grade 2 winter climbs. Climbing was then slightly curtailed by the pitter patter of little feet. Still managed to climb over a hundred new routes and lead 10 new E1's which was my aim for the year. Spent more time bouldering also. As the year has gone on I've become more obsessed with fell running to the point where my climbing has stopped. Not done any form of climbing now for 5 weeks. Need to remedy that before the year is out.
Started with a sun baked weekend in Scotland in February ticking classic grade 2 winter climbs. Climbing was then slightly curtailed by the pitter patter of little feet. Still managed to climb over a hundred new routes and lead 10 new E1's which was my aim for the year. Spent more time bouldering also. As the year has gone on I've become more obsessed with fell running to the point where my climbing has stopped. Not done any form of climbing now for 5 weeks. Need to remedy that before the year is out.
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