UKC

Safely, quickly and efficiently completing multiple abseils to descend from a multi-pitch route is an important skill.

Trainee mountain guide Will Harris shares part one of his two-part article series on multi-pitch abseiling techniques.

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In reply to UKC Articles:

Like the tip on larks footing the prussic loop to the krab, although this could result in a far lengthier removal time once extracting yourself from the ab ropes.
But no mention of wearing gloves whilst abseiling, definetly worth wearing to save the hands & skin over numerous descents.

In reply to UKC Articles:
.. I was finding i couldn't post reply to this unless i opened the article by clicking on the folder icon, rather than just the title... that's unusual isn't it?

Regarding transitioning the abseil stations, by point 6, have you ommitted pointing out that the rope to be pulled will now be the other one.?
As you have been threading the loose end of this through the anchor point for the next abseil, the knot joining the 2 ropes will now be on the wrong side to enable it being pulled. You either missed out stating that you will pull the other rope next time, or the rope joining knot has to be put on the other side of the carabiner that you are abseiling off...? Or am i wrong?

In reply to UKC Articles:
When it comes to the carabiner that is at the end of the sling used to anchor ourselves, they may have some wear on them caused by the anchor itself from old pitons or hanger / plaquette. Therefore I have dedicated 2 carabiners just for this purpose and I always hang the the same way so that the scratches and possible sharp edges do not come into contact with the rope or sling. Since You advice to clip the carabiner at the end of the sling to the rope to be pulled down, You should explicitly mention that the carabiner should be free of any sharp edges - one should inspect it quite regularly. Although there is usually no load on the carabiner in this case, there could be some situation (stuck over edge, twisting ropes) where the "sharpened" carabiner could cause some damage to the rope sheath.

In reply to walts4:


Why? You only do this at the end of the last rap, and just slide it off the krab. Takes the same time as if it is not larked.

In reply to UKC Articles: in the 'threaded rope' pic, I'd say the knot would be better on the underside of the anchor so as not to pull down onto it pinching the upcoming rope. It's unlikely, but I've had stuck ropes for that reason (using abolokovs so perhaps exacerbating the problem)