UKC

I find that if I just put more than 3 pegs on a snapgate they jam together, stick out at crazy angles and become quite resistant to being removed.

Are there any ways of racking, particular types of krabs etc. that makes them less of a pain in the bum?

In reply to davidbeynon:

Add cord loops to them. i.e dble fishermans short length of cord (diameter of your pref). This also allows you to clip the loop after placing rather than direct to eye of peg.

In reply to Tobes:

Of course. I'm a bit embarrassed now, as that is clearly the obvious & correct solution and I completely failed to think of it!

In reply to Tobes:

^^^^
This...

I think I use something like 2mm auxiliary cord.

In reply to davidbeynon:

No worries!

re: 2mm cord, if you're planning on clipping the cord after placing, might be worth considering something a bit thicker. Or clip eye direct and use thin cord just for racking.

I'm probably stating the obvious eh!?

Tobes

In reply to Tobes:

I think I will go for thin cord and clip the eyes. I'm not sure I would trust loaded cord running through the eyes of knifeblades as they are fairly thin metal.

In reply to davidbeynon:
Yep thin cord for retaining - definitely NOT to clip into instead of eye of peg... The strength of Beal cord is as follows:

2mm - 70kg
3mm - 180kg
4mm - 340kg
5mm - 580kg
6mm - 750kg
7mm - 1170kg
8mm - 1400kg

Obviously that with no knots in the equation, holding power will be dramatically reduced when the cord is tied! Remember slings have to be a minimum of 22kn!

The thin cord is amazing when removing and placing as you're less likely to drop them, just watch you don't damage it with the hammer!

In reply to davidbeynon:

Try getting hold of the older (larger) Krabs.
I use 1970's Clog's, they're much larger, and are great for racking all kinds of gear, pegs and ice-screws included.

In reply to davidbeynon:

Any old bit of nylon string - it will get mullered by a hammer, so don't bother to over-spec it -

In reply to davidbeynon:

Thin cord may get caught in the gate notch of a carabiner. Choose the diameter of cord to suit the crab.

In reply to davidbeynon:

Thanks all. I will see what I can find in the tat cupboard and get some loops of cord installed.

In reply to davidbeynon:

Pretty much the only normal krab currently on the market that's any good for racking pitons on is a Black Diamond Ovalwire, see http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en_ES/climbing-carabiners-quickdraws/ovalw...

I can normally rack up to five smaller pegs (two blades, two lost arrows and a baby angle) on one. However, I still resort to having 3mm loops on my larger hammered gear - warthogs, tommahawks/terriers/bulldogs etc..

In reply to Tobes:
They make such an aweful noise when you rack them on cord though. Like hexes, only worse.

In reply to davidbeynon:

I have rounded or oval krabs for wires and pegs. Also ones that have smooth or flush gates, so they don't snag and slide around easily.

In reply to davidbeynon:

It may seem obvious, but why not just put two pegs on each krab?

In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Weight mainly. Krabs are one of the first things I try to cut down on when I'm trying to save that last kilogram when flying with gear, especially the ones I'm not going to be using for rigging.

Yeah, I know that if I really cared about weight I wouldn't have pegs in the first place

In reply to davidbeynon:



Take them loose on the plane (just in a bag) and 2 per krab on the routes. Once you've used 2, you get a spare krab, which you'll need anyway.

In reply to davidbeynon:

what about something like a Petzl Caritool (small or large)?

In reply to scope:

Yeh but the human wind chime effect can aid in gauging deteriorating conditions.

In reply to davidbeynon:

How many pegs do you carry and what sort of climbing is this for?

I found 3 or 4 on a krab is no problem (one or two knifeblades, a lost arrow or two and maybe one angle), and that's enough for winter climbing in the UK.

In reply to TobyA:

Normally I only carry a couple of lost arrows and an angle for winter stuff, which has been more than enough as I don't climb that hard and try not to place them.

I was advised that I may need several covering a bit more of a range for a larger route I'm hoping to attempt next year so I picked up a couple of knifeblades to go with them. I'm hoping to carry them all to the top without using them.

The cord trick mentioned above worked nicely btw.

In reply to davidbeynon:

Radical idea and feel free to shoot me down on this, but how about putting them in your chalk bag/another racked bag. If's the bag's tight enough and you put them in sideways they shouldn't rotate and stab you in a fall, no annoying chiming and you could fit a fair few in- harder to get too I agree and more of a chance of dropping them, but if they're not on a krab you don't drop the lot.

Someone should try this for science.

In reply to ShortLock:

I have elevated the practice forgetting my chalk bag to a high art so I can't see it working for me

In reply to ShortLock:
Have just realised it's pretty unlikely anyone would take a chalk bag on a winter route...