UKC

Do you have to use a guide for Nepals trekking peaks?

I've read lots of conflicting advice, obviously permits are needed and I would have to use a local guiding company to obtain the permit.

Does anyone have experience of unsupported ascents of trekking peaks? I've been up to 5400m on the Annapurna Circuit, climb Scottish grade III and will be climbing for a week or two in the Alps this coming summer. Would I be better off visiting another area for climbing 5-6000m peaks?

Thanks!

In reply to static266:

Had'nt replied as my experience is 20 years old, but as no one else has, i will say that when I did tent peak with two friends we got an agency in Katmandu to arrange the permit, and we hired a guide/porter who acted as liaison office but also carried a some gear for us. He was useful as a guide on the trek to base camp, and stayed there for 5 days until our trek out. This was useful, didn't cost us much and put a bit if money into the Nepalese economy.

I don't have any experience of other 5000m + climbing areas.

In reply to static266:

My info is also 20 years old. But the answer to your question 'Do you have to use a guide for Nepals trekking peaks?' is yes, although you don't necessarily have to actually climb the peak with them.

The point of their system is that you have to pay the NMA for a permit and hire a climbing guide for the period of the climb. Most people will climb with the guide but in my experience I climbed Island Peak without a guide as we were warming up on it for Ama Dablam and our guides were over there fixing the route. The other guides at base camp or wardens who check your permit on route to a peak will want to know where your guide is and will (try to) prevent you from climbing if you haven't got one/paid for one.

So if your question is can I avoid paying for a guide the answer is no, not legally. But if you want to climb the route with your partner(s) and not be guided then yes that is possible as long as you hire a guide. People do climb illegally but these guys need the work and it is not on IMO.

In reply to static266:
Climbingwise you will most def. be fine on the easier trekking peaks. No problem without a guide. When I was there 2005, before my hands had touched axe/crampons or even rock, we soloed two trekkings peaks after a introductory alpine course in the Annapurnas.

Dont know if regulations changed but the permit fees and structure have at least changed 2015. In 2005 it was not a big problem to obtain a permit with a guide only on paper, didnt follow with us and we didnt have to pay for him. (maybe we payed a small baksheesh for this, dont remember)

In reply to static266:

If you do decide to go somewhere logistically easier, you could do a lot worse than Bolivia, climbing season has excellent weather, you can acclimatise at your leisure in La Paz, there are plenty of 5-6000m peaks to go at. No bureaucracy or fees and the Cordillera Real is on your doorstep or other more remote ranges are still fairly accessible with plenty of new route potential.

In reply to JJ Krammerhead III:
I agree with your positive comments re Bolivia.
Compared with Nepal, I found it less culturally interesting in the mountain areas; also the landscapes in Nepal are fascinating as you travel from agricultural land up through different vegatation zones to the mountains. What Bolivia has is accessibility- you can climb more mountains in Bolivia than in Nepal within a given time period. In five weeks in Bolivia, we did two 6000m peaks and four 5000m peaks by routes in four different areas which needed mountainering skills but which were technically pretty easy, and we probably could have done more.