UKC

After having a bit of stiffness and pain in my fingers over the last year or so i finally went to see the doctor. Was sent for X-rays and blood test and got a call from the doctor yesterday. Diagnosis is Osteoarthritis in all of my fingers. Doctor says not a lot can be done about it apart from managing the pain, anyone here got it ? what do you take to manage it ? I've had a google and several sites mention glucosamine and chondroitin, has anyone any experience of taking these supplements ?
I know it can't be reversed but if i can slow it down and carry on climbing that would be great.

In reply to broady:

Hi Broady

I have had mild osteoarthritis in my LHS big toe and my hip joints for a number of years. I run, MTB, walk and climb. I manage my condition by the use of orthotics, stretching / foam roller and I take glucosamine. I have also found the advice and treatment from my chiropractor to be very helpful.

There is also a fair bit on the web about what you eat effecting your condition, ie foods that cause inflammation of the joints. I found this did not make a big difference to my condition but this just may have been luck that I already did do eat many of the trigger foods. Definitely worth a look though.

I would definitely recommend finding a good sports orientated physio or chiropractor and see what they have to say.

HTH Davey

In reply to Mountain Llama:

Thanks for your reply, trying to get as much info together as i can at the moment.

In reply to broady:

There's plenty of info here plus alternative therapies etc http://www.arthritisresearchuk.org/arthritis-information/complementary-and-...

Cheers Dave

In reply to broady:

Work it from the acid/alkali (even if you can't call it science !) perspective - which will cut down on carbs, proteines etc and boost fresh fruit and veg. Guaranteed results. Oh and of course no alcohol

In reply to broady:

I have it in most of my finger joints - some are visibly swollen with Heberden's Nodes. Diagnosed by GP about five years ago (with just a look and a prod, never sent me for any tests or anything). I mentioned I was(am) a climber and my job is mainly working on a keyboard - she said "you might want to stop doing both those things", which was helpful! I didn't stop, and am still climbing about the same level (got an E2 onsight and dogged a sport 7a last weekend). Ok I tend to better on routes that depend on balance and footwork than outright finger strength, but that was always the case. I do get some aching after a hard session but hey at my age I'm at the 'take it easy and listen to your body' stage.
In terms of supplements, here's what I take/do: Glucosamine and Chondroitin daily; raw apple cider vinegar mixed with honey daily; a fairly healthy diet in general with half an eye on getting omega 3s where possible; Voltarol massaged into hands after a session when I remember; wearing gloves when it's cold, especially for things like driving; adding garlic/turmeric/cinnamon/ginger to as much of my food as reasonably possible. I'll happily admit some/all of these may be complete wastes of time but none are particularly onerous or expensive so I'll carry on, on the off-chance they are doing some good. I'll say this much - a few years ago I was seriously concerned my climbing days were very severely numbered, but now I've hardly got any worse if at all and certainly less depressed about it all.
Don't give up!

In reply to LeeWood:


am genuinely curious as to how one cuts down on carbs while boosting fruit and veg - aren't fruit and veg mainly made of carbs (and water, obvs)?

In reply to ripper:

The carb content of veg is a great deal lower than pasta, rice and bread https://www.dietdoctor.com/low-carb/vegetables.

In reply to ripper:

The principle is to boost vitamin and mineral content in proportion to calories. Will also maintain hydration and fibre.

Otherwise the ketone diets suggest you're averagely better getting your calories from fats - the good ones ie. not hydrogenated oils.

In reply to Mountain Llama:

That's the first place I looked very good site thanks.

In reply to ripper:

Thanks for the reply, great advice thank you. Glad it's not effecting your climbing too much. That's was my main concern. I'll have a look at my diet over the next couple of days and make some adjustments.

In reply to broady:
Similar to ripper. Over 8 years in fingers with the nodes for more years than that. My GP said I should stop climbing more than once, but has given up that advice long ago!

My take on OA generally is use it or lose it with regard to the mobility of which ever joint is affected, at a level you can without causing excessive pain and or stiffnes, whilst you still can. Don't just think oh I've got OA so I can't do x or y until you really can't do x or y. I do think you can delay further decline, but you need to work at it.

I'm still climbing (though not as often) and actually climb better (higher grades and I think a better more relaxed deliberate style) overall than I did when originally diagnosed. I climb differently though. Can't really use the pinkies now at all so learnt to relax them when using other fingers on climbs, and most finger jams/excessive twisting/cross loading/ crimping/snatching on the finger joints are a no no for me, but there are often (usually for me) many other styles and ways to climb the same route.

Yes there are cycles of pain/stiffness, etc., that restrict what you can do, but I just get into a habit of extending the warm up phase and lower my expectations on the day. You need to learn how to pace and build in rest period. For example when the fingers are really bad, the day after a climb I have to rest the fingers so no real manual dexterity stuff or weight bearing. I also occasionally use tape on the worst joints to restrict movement whilst still providing support to weight bear in a more static way, if that makes sense.

What do I use? On fingers specifically I get on prescription double strength ibuprofen gel and it works wonders for my fingers. Generally use it after every hard climb session just before going to bed. Otherwise, usual painkillers to allow joints to be used as actively as possible. I also like ice cold water treatment when they have been over worked, and not just an in and out, but extended to get the hands to be really cold to reduce inflammation and pain. Of course most of the time the aim is to keep them warm and supple.

In addition whether there is any basis of helpfulness or it's only in the mind, I have multi Vit supplement, eat lots of fish for the omega 3 & 6, minimise foods that I think cause more problems (yes that includes alcohol), get plenty of rest yet remain active, get plenty of sleep, and have daily excercise program.

Be prepared for good days and bad days, adjust accordingly, and keep going is my thoughts.

In reply to broady:

Thank you all for the advice. All really useful, going to spend this week looking at my diet and I've started taking the supplements.