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Good morning, hopefully FitClub 508 finds you all well, and not too stuffed and hungover from xmas parties and instead getting out in the wonderful sun today?
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week’s thread can be found here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=654399&v=1
Si: Sounds like grit season is going well. What kind of fingerboard sessions are you planning- max strength for maintenance? Hope you are ‘heeling’ fast (cracker joke?).
IanBell: Embrace the rest weeks. Do WW have a woody or system board? Maybe making up routes without the constraint of grades would be helpful for the mental jump?
PlanetMarshall: How long is your training cycle/ when are you planning to peak?
Ally Smith: Sounds like you’ve been doing plenty rehab type stuff. What are you doing with your contraption- negatives? (slowly releasing?)
TheSheep: Congratulations on the diving qualification!
Guy127917: Eat less!
Hokkyo: Recovery?
TonyB: Did you get on an 8a?
HMS: Can you give us a cliffs notes of the guinea-pig-plan?
DanDan: Hope you enjoyed being a ringer in the beginner climbing comp! 10 sessions in a week… will be interested to see how you fit this in with decent recovery.
TheFasting: Congratulations on passing the exam!
AJM: FT- “A ferocious test-piece with unlikely moves”… sounds lovely!
Bobling: Congrats on the STG!
LeeBoy: Nice work getting out, ticking your second HVS.
Tyler: How are the tips?
MattRM: Stanage under blue skies… so easy to get psyched!
JayK: Sounds like a great session on sunday!
Biscuit: Awaiting your elbow update…
TinTin: Another packed week, what are your goals for your trip?
1
In reply to guy127917:
Rubbish week, myself and eldest daughter down with cold/virus. Recovered enough for a run on Saturday. 33 mins for 5k
Rubbish week, myself and eldest daughter down with cold/virus. Recovered enough for a run on Saturday. 33 mins for 5k
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy, Christmas party was on Friday so I was recovered by today (at least in my head...) but the weather was actually pretty rubbish in the peak.
The fingerboard sessions were repeaters - I've not done any since the summer and since my climbing outside now is all bouldering, I thought it was worth reminding my fingers how to keep going for more than a few seconds.
2016/17 winter goals (by end of February):
- Reduce weight (measured on a Sunday night) back to 11st 0lb (intermediate goal of 11st 3lb by Christmas)
- Do a few grit f7Bs (particularly keen for Suavito, Jerry's Traverse and Spare Rib, but keeping this flexible)
- Tetris (f7C)
2017 early spring goals (by end of April):
- Do lots of Font 7s in our trip in early March (target of 10+)
- Do Eastwood Traverse
- Try Powerband
M: rest.
T: Fingerboard repeaters: 7s on / 3s off x 6 reps x 3 sets with an 18 mm edge (half crimp), then the same with front 3 in the bm2000 good pockets, then same again with back 3. I felt really lethargic and tired but managed to finish all the sets.
W: rest.
T: Fingerboard repeaters as per Tuesday. Felt much better than Tuesday but actually failed on one of the sets. Weird.
F: Christmas party all afternoon/evening.
S: nothing. Heel not up to doing anything (see below.) Bought some gel shoe inserts which help reduce the limp a bit.
S: Cratcliffe on Jerry's Traverse. The starting foothold and two key handholds were in drainage lines and needed re-drying every 15 minutes, so it was a bit of a constant battle vs conditions. The air also felt a bit damp and the promised breeze never materialised at all. It ended up being a good session though, I did all the moves and felt a bit stronger than when I tried it previously (some time in 2015). Am now in a position where I can try it from the beginning with a realistic chance of success, but ran out of psyche / dry patches on my beer towel today.
Injury catalogue: Slight shoulder niggle after the Tuesday evening session, and left ring finger pip joint after Thursday evening. Both seem to have cleared up now, and I've had further trouble this week with the right index finger, which is good. HOWEVER, shame about my left heel which appears to be more damaged than I had realised. It got gradually better through the week, but I then I aggravated it on Friday night (too much walking around and standing in the pub) and spent Saturday limping around in pain. Today I went to try Jerry's Traverse because I knew I couldn't afford to land from any height, even on a mat. Fortunately it did well today and actually by far the worst part was the walk in: it seemed to improve slightly through the day. I suspect I might be confined to bum-shuffling traverses for a while yet though.
Weight last night Sunday night was 11 st 3 lb. That was a slightly fluke result I think, in that I was back to 11st4/5 for most of the evenings in the week. I dieted pretty well most of the week, but ate and drank loads on Friday night (including my annual Doner Kebab...) Hoping to be 11st4 tonight.
Trying to keep my glass half full, I'm really close now to Suavito, Milky Buttons and Jerry's Traverse, and have made good progress on Tetris, all in the last 3 weekends. So yes, grit season has started well - but I really need the stars to align with injuries and conditions now.
Si
> Good morning, hopefully FitClub 508 finds you all well, and not too stuffed and hungover from xmas parties and instead getting out in the wonderful sun today?
> Si: Sounds like grit season is going well. What kind of fingerboard sessions are you planning- max strength for maintenance? Hope you are ‘heeling’ fast (cracker joke?).
Cheers Guy, Christmas party was on Friday so I was recovered by today (at least in my head...) but the weather was actually pretty rubbish in the peak.
The fingerboard sessions were repeaters - I've not done any since the summer and since my climbing outside now is all bouldering, I thought it was worth reminding my fingers how to keep going for more than a few seconds.
2016/17 winter goals (by end of February):
- Reduce weight (measured on a Sunday night) back to 11st 0lb (intermediate goal of 11st 3lb by Christmas)
- Do a few grit f7Bs (particularly keen for Suavito, Jerry's Traverse and Spare Rib, but keeping this flexible)
- Tetris (f7C)
2017 early spring goals (by end of April):
- Do lots of Font 7s in our trip in early March (target of 10+)
- Do Eastwood Traverse
- Try Powerband
M: rest.
T: Fingerboard repeaters: 7s on / 3s off x 6 reps x 3 sets with an 18 mm edge (half crimp), then the same with front 3 in the bm2000 good pockets, then same again with back 3. I felt really lethargic and tired but managed to finish all the sets.
W: rest.
T: Fingerboard repeaters as per Tuesday. Felt much better than Tuesday but actually failed on one of the sets. Weird.
F: Christmas party all afternoon/evening.
S: nothing. Heel not up to doing anything (see below.) Bought some gel shoe inserts which help reduce the limp a bit.
S: Cratcliffe on Jerry's Traverse. The starting foothold and two key handholds were in drainage lines and needed re-drying every 15 minutes, so it was a bit of a constant battle vs conditions. The air also felt a bit damp and the promised breeze never materialised at all. It ended up being a good session though, I did all the moves and felt a bit stronger than when I tried it previously (some time in 2015). Am now in a position where I can try it from the beginning with a realistic chance of success, but ran out of psyche / dry patches on my beer towel today.
Injury catalogue: Slight shoulder niggle after the Tuesday evening session, and left ring finger pip joint after Thursday evening. Both seem to have cleared up now, and I've had further trouble this week with the right index finger, which is good. HOWEVER, shame about my left heel which appears to be more damaged than I had realised. It got gradually better through the week, but I then I aggravated it on Friday night (too much walking around and standing in the pub) and spent Saturday limping around in pain. Today I went to try Jerry's Traverse because I knew I couldn't afford to land from any height, even on a mat. Fortunately it did well today and actually by far the worst part was the walk in: it seemed to improve slightly through the day. I suspect I might be confined to bum-shuffling traverses for a while yet though.
Weight last night Sunday night was 11 st 3 lb. That was a slightly fluke result I think, in that I was back to 11st4/5 for most of the evenings in the week. I dieted pretty well most of the week, but ate and drank loads on Friday night (including my annual Doner Kebab...) Hoping to be 11st4 tonight.
Trying to keep my glass half full, I'm really close now to Suavito, Milky Buttons and Jerry's Traverse, and have made good progress on Tetris, all in the last 3 weekends. So yes, grit season has started well - but I really need the stars to align with injuries and conditions now.
Si
Post edited at 17:57
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy.
Another meh week where reality has finally kicked in. I've been able to maintain previously with one decent session a week but it turns out one rushed session every 7-14 days doesn't cut it. I feel weak and unfit.
I had a boulder with the squad kids on Wed eve. Despite flashing a V6 in my trainers and flashing two V7/8's I have to agree with Ally that the grades are bonkers at the minute. I've done harder V4's. I can't kid myself though, I was feeling weak and couldn't do some stuff the kids did for the first time. They were very nice about it though and only ribbed me for about an hour.
My elbow was sore again (medial epicondyle and a general ache around bicep insertion) so when I had chance for a depot visit on Saturday I took it easy. I did all the whites and all the blues but by the time I started on the blacks my elbow started making itself known again. Being sensible I stopped - for once. I was having a really good time, missing out holds on the easier stuff to dyno about etc.
Started self treating for my elbow having coincidentally just studied this very thing at uni. Not sure how it's going yet but it feels achy in a good way rather than a bad way. It started after the BoB where I arrived late, didn't warm up properly and climbed harder for longer than I normally would. I wonder if there's a link?
I'm having a routes session this week, which should be hilarious as I've not been on a rope for over 3 mths. Just going to take it easy and keep the elbow happy so when I do get chance to get back to it i'm in good shape.
Cheers Guy.
Another meh week where reality has finally kicked in. I've been able to maintain previously with one decent session a week but it turns out one rushed session every 7-14 days doesn't cut it. I feel weak and unfit.
I had a boulder with the squad kids on Wed eve. Despite flashing a V6 in my trainers and flashing two V7/8's I have to agree with Ally that the grades are bonkers at the minute. I've done harder V4's. I can't kid myself though, I was feeling weak and couldn't do some stuff the kids did for the first time. They were very nice about it though and only ribbed me for about an hour.
My elbow was sore again (medial epicondyle and a general ache around bicep insertion) so when I had chance for a depot visit on Saturday I took it easy. I did all the whites and all the blues but by the time I started on the blacks my elbow started making itself known again. Being sensible I stopped - for once. I was having a really good time, missing out holds on the easier stuff to dyno about etc.
Started self treating for my elbow having coincidentally just studied this very thing at uni. Not sure how it's going yet but it feels achy in a good way rather than a bad way. It started after the BoB where I arrived late, didn't warm up properly and climbed harder for longer than I normally would. I wonder if there's a link?
I'm having a routes session this week, which should be hilarious as I've not been on a rope for over 3 mths. Just going to take it easy and keep the elbow happy so when I do get chance to get back to it i'm in good shape.
In reply to Si dH:
Shudda gone to Eatswood
> S: Cratcliffe on Jerry's Traverse. The starting foothold and two key handholds were in drainage lines and needed re-drying every 15 minutes, so it was a bit of a constant battle vs conditions. The air also felt a bit damp and the promised breeze never materialised at all. It ended up being a good session though, I did all the moves and felt a bit stronger than when I tried it previously (some time in 2015). Am now in a position where I can try it from the beginning with a realistic chance of success, but ran out of psyche / dry patches on my beer towel today.
Shudda gone to Eatswood
In reply to ukb shark:
That'll probably be next on my list after Jerry's if my heel is still mending... could probably do with a teeny bit of endurance training for it, maybe more repeaters will help. The biggest challenge on my last few visits was stress/frustration levels but I've probably had a good enough break now to overcome that...I hope!
I see Stone said the Tor was dry... maybe you should have been at X?
That'll probably be next on my list after Jerry's if my heel is still mending... could probably do with a teeny bit of endurance training for it, maybe more repeaters will help. The biggest challenge on my last few visits was stress/frustration levels but I've probably had a good enough break now to overcome that...I hope!
I see Stone said the Tor was dry... maybe you should have been at X?
1
In reply to guy127917:
I'm attempting 4 week mesocycles to peak for an El Chorro trip over Christmas. I must admit these cycles feel incredibly short to me, having been used to 8 week cycles from Training for the New Alpinism. I guess we'll see how I get on.
Last week's goals -
Shift upper body strength sessions to recruitment training ( fewer reps, higher loads, longer rests ). Booked trip to El Chorro over Christmas, so Shift bouldering focus to anaerobic endurance ( linked circuits ). Get out somewhere at the weekend. Either Font, or the Southern Vosges for some trail running.
Success! Didn't actually do any climbing at Font due to damp conditions, but had a great run through the forest and visited Karma. Will maybe try again this weekend, and make sure I actually look at the humidity forecast ( it was 99% this weekend ).
Mon Rest
Tue Max Strength session.
Core.
French Pullups 4x3
Box Stepup 4x4 @ 10kg
Ring Dips 3/6/5/6
Overhead Squat 2x6@30kg,5@35kg,4@40kg
Linked Bouldering Circuits. 6 sets Orange/Green/Orange/Green
Wed Rest
Thu Max Strength session.
Core
French Pullups. 4x2
Box Stepup 2x5 @ 10kg, 2x4@12.5kg
Ring Dip 4x8
Deadlift 2x4@90kg, 2x3@100kg
Linked Bouldering Circuits. 6 sets Yellow/Green/Orange/Green
Fri Rest
Sat 5k run. Pyramid at Karma in Font. 4x Yellow. 2x Orange. 1x Green. 1x Blue.
Managed about 2 seconds hanging off the 45 deg slopers on the Beastmaker 1000, which I guess is progress.
Sun Trail Run (Tour des 25 Bosses in Font). 17.5km/986m
STG - At least 1 session Linked Bouldering Circuit. 1 Session Continuous Intensity Repetitions. 1 trail run. Possibly Font again at the weekend but depends on the weather - at least try to get out somewhere. Continue Max Strength work.
MTG - Winter 2016-2017. Redpoint a 6c (Possibly Life is Sweet (6c)?). Do some cross country skiing.
LTG - 2017
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Innominata Ridge (D+)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) - Solo
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Trela (7a)
BHAG - Beyond 2017
Archangel (E3 5b)
London Wall (E5 6a)
Right Wall (E5 6a)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The 1938 Route (ED2)
Octopus Crack (7b+)
US Road Trip
El Cap
New routes in Scotland
New routes in Alaska
> PlanetMarshall: How long is your training cycle/ when are you planning to peak?
I'm attempting 4 week mesocycles to peak for an El Chorro trip over Christmas. I must admit these cycles feel incredibly short to me, having been used to 8 week cycles from Training for the New Alpinism. I guess we'll see how I get on.
Last week's goals -
Shift upper body strength sessions to recruitment training ( fewer reps, higher loads, longer rests ). Booked trip to El Chorro over Christmas, so Shift bouldering focus to anaerobic endurance ( linked circuits ). Get out somewhere at the weekend. Either Font, or the Southern Vosges for some trail running.
Success! Didn't actually do any climbing at Font due to damp conditions, but had a great run through the forest and visited Karma. Will maybe try again this weekend, and make sure I actually look at the humidity forecast ( it was 99% this weekend ).
Mon Rest
Tue Max Strength session.
Core.
French Pullups 4x3
Box Stepup 4x4 @ 10kg
Ring Dips 3/6/5/6
Overhead Squat 2x6@30kg,5@35kg,4@40kg
Linked Bouldering Circuits. 6 sets Orange/Green/Orange/Green
Wed Rest
Thu Max Strength session.
Core
French Pullups. 4x2
Box Stepup 2x5 @ 10kg, 2x4@12.5kg
Ring Dip 4x8
Deadlift 2x4@90kg, 2x3@100kg
Linked Bouldering Circuits. 6 sets Yellow/Green/Orange/Green
Fri Rest
Sat 5k run. Pyramid at Karma in Font. 4x Yellow. 2x Orange. 1x Green. 1x Blue.
Managed about 2 seconds hanging off the 45 deg slopers on the Beastmaker 1000, which I guess is progress.
Sun Trail Run (Tour des 25 Bosses in Font). 17.5km/986m
STG - At least 1 session Linked Bouldering Circuit. 1 Session Continuous Intensity Repetitions. 1 trail run. Possibly Font again at the weekend but depends on the weather - at least try to get out somewhere. Continue Max Strength work.
MTG - Winter 2016-2017. Redpoint a 6c (Possibly Life is Sweet (6c)?). Do some cross country skiing.
LTG - 2017
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Innominata Ridge (D+)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) - Solo
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Trela (7a)
BHAG - Beyond 2017
Archangel (E3 5b)
London Wall (E5 6a)
Right Wall (E5 6a)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The 1938 Route (ED2)
Octopus Crack (7b+)
US Road Trip
El Cap
New routes in Scotland
New routes in Alaska
In reply to planetmarshall:
STG - Keep filling up 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 9x7a, 2x7a+, 1x7b.
MTG = be able to consistently (ish) do V5 indoors by Easter.
BHAG = 8a by 40
Morning all
Hope the heel heals soon Si ;-(
Another brief week for me
Fri - routes in the WW. 8 routes but only a couple of hard ones (6c+, 7a) both of which I almost got clean but didn't. Ankle pretty painful
Sun - about 14 routes on the autobelay at WW. Flashed the 6c+, rest 6a=6b+ ish. Got spanked on one of the 6a+ routes!
Ankle has been painful but the foam roller arrived in the post end of the week and already seems to be helping a bit. Hopefully if I continue that and do the other strengthening exercise it'll be OK by the new year and I can start bouldering again.
STG - Keep filling up 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 9x7a, 2x7a+, 1x7b.
MTG = be able to consistently (ish) do V5 indoors by Easter.
BHAG = 8a by 40
Morning all
Hope the heel heals soon Si ;-(
Another brief week for me
Fri - routes in the WW. 8 routes but only a couple of hard ones (6c+, 7a) both of which I almost got clean but didn't. Ankle pretty painful
Sun - about 14 routes on the autobelay at WW. Flashed the 6c+, rest 6a=6b+ ish. Got spanked on one of the 6a+ routes!
Ankle has been painful but the foam roller arrived in the post end of the week and already seems to be helping a bit. Hopefully if I continue that and do the other strengthening exercise it'll be OK by the new year and I can start bouldering again.
In reply to planetmarshall:
STG - Keep filling up 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 9x7a, 2x7a+, 1x7b.
MTG = be able to consistently (ish) do V5 indoors by Easter.
BHAG = 8a by 40
Think I may go FitClub AWOL till I'm back from Australia now (mid Jan) as I'm not going to be doing any climbing other than the odd Westway session to keep ticking over. Will get back on it in 2017, have booked an easter trip to finale so have something to look forward to and get motivated for.
Also need to decide what the plan is for next year. This year I wanted to train more and fill up the 7b+ pyramid, as the top of this post shows that wasn't wholly successful and I got stuck at the bottom of it. I did equal my hardest ever route (7b) and at one stage 7a was going quite easily, flashed 3 in Kalymnos and quite a few in the UK went in a couple of goes but I didn't push on past that. Part of that was work, its been a tough year which didn't fit with training. That also sapped the motivation for long drives from London every weekend. Part was also mentality, the temptation to get something easier definitely ticked was always there especially when trips outside where less frequent. I'm also not regularly climbing outdoors with anyone climbing >7a, thats fixable and I think would help. So next year I need to decide whether to try hard again and change some of those variables for more success or just to have a bit more relaxed year and tick a load of 7a / 7a+.
STG - Keep filling up 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 9x7a, 2x7a+, 1x7b.
MTG = be able to consistently (ish) do V5 indoors by Easter.
BHAG = 8a by 40
Think I may go FitClub AWOL till I'm back from Australia now (mid Jan) as I'm not going to be doing any climbing other than the odd Westway session to keep ticking over. Will get back on it in 2017, have booked an easter trip to finale so have something to look forward to and get motivated for.
Also need to decide what the plan is for next year. This year I wanted to train more and fill up the 7b+ pyramid, as the top of this post shows that wasn't wholly successful and I got stuck at the bottom of it. I did equal my hardest ever route (7b) and at one stage 7a was going quite easily, flashed 3 in Kalymnos and quite a few in the UK went in a couple of goes but I didn't push on past that. Part of that was work, its been a tough year which didn't fit with training. That also sapped the motivation for long drives from London every weekend. Part was also mentality, the temptation to get something easier definitely ticked was always there especially when trips outside where less frequent. I'm also not regularly climbing outdoors with anyone climbing >7a, thats fixable and I think would help. So next year I need to decide whether to try hard again and change some of those variables for more success or just to have a bit more relaxed year and tick a load of 7a / 7a+.
Post edited at 09:12
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy - managed to climb on slab this weekend without any elbow grumbles, so making progress. However, with only 9 weeks to go to planned trip, and xmas/new year taking up a bunch of that, I might have to reign in my ambitions for Chulilla?
The thingy is some very sub-maximal hangs to rehab some 3 finger combos I've been perennially weak on.
Week 50:
M - Lunchtime jolly on the bike. 22km. 3x12 bench@35kg (easing myself back into these too!) Deadlifts; a bunch of low weight reps & 1-leg bridges to warm up, then 20x35kg and 2x12 @64kg. “Thingy” lifts upto 30kg on front-3, back-3 & front-3 crimp. 3 width pinches @15kg. 3x12 overhead press@25kg – weak at these! 10kg weighted sit-ups then elbow rehab – eccentrics.
T - Elbow eccentrics & first try out of new Armaid. Felt really good on wrist extensors.
W - Early morning lifting session, but glutes were very tight so avoided deadlifts and did C&J light reps, concentrating on technique. “Thingy” lifts upto 30kg on front-3, back-3 & front-3 crimp (only 25kg on LH 3-finger crimp). After work core, armaid & eccentric session.
T - Lunchtime bike; 27km with some quite intense intervals. Traffic was terrible and felt a bit knackered so sacked in the planned wall session and did foam rollering.
F - Nothing. Finish work and rush to excellent Paul Pritchard lecture
S - Bus stop – Dogged Forsinain Motspur Superdirect (8a) and had some good sequences by end of second go, but my hips were super tired – not the expected point of fatigue! TR tough guy on The Medium (8a) was dismal failure with sore tips & toes.
S - Repeat TR failures on The Medium after extended belay duties in Vivian (via quick ascent of Looning the Tube (E1 5a) - how had I missed this off my slate palmares?
Weight this morning 77.0 kg – lardy
STG – this week:
At least 4 rehab sessions – eccentrics - repeat
Avoid gluttony at training course this week and work xmas meal on friday.
Find a local gym that doesn’t rinse my wallet, and has ergos and deadlift facilities – failed again, but at least I’m getting out on the bike/lifting.
MTG – end of Dec:
Deadlift 1RM bodyweight with good form – done; new goal 90kg.
Record benchmarks for finger-strength and fitness, ideally on a lattice board at The Boardroom (compare to FoC to benchmark?)
Make training plan(s) for Chulilla in late Feb, and onwards to peaking in June/July for Kilnsey project
Put extra bolt in Malham route – Baba O’Riley, and investigate other FA options
LTG – end 2017:
8b in Chulilla in Feb.
The Wire, Parisella’s Cave.
The Traverse of the Gods.
Kilnsey Project(s).
Bonuses: Malham project(?), Gorge project(s), Tor link-up project, The Brute.
Thanks Guy - managed to climb on slab this weekend without any elbow grumbles, so making progress. However, with only 9 weeks to go to planned trip, and xmas/new year taking up a bunch of that, I might have to reign in my ambitions for Chulilla?
The thingy is some very sub-maximal hangs to rehab some 3 finger combos I've been perennially weak on.
Week 50:
M - Lunchtime jolly on the bike. 22km. 3x12 bench@35kg (easing myself back into these too!) Deadlifts; a bunch of low weight reps & 1-leg bridges to warm up, then 20x35kg and 2x12 @64kg. “Thingy” lifts upto 30kg on front-3, back-3 & front-3 crimp. 3 width pinches @15kg. 3x12 overhead press@25kg – weak at these! 10kg weighted sit-ups then elbow rehab – eccentrics.
T - Elbow eccentrics & first try out of new Armaid. Felt really good on wrist extensors.
W - Early morning lifting session, but glutes were very tight so avoided deadlifts and did C&J light reps, concentrating on technique. “Thingy” lifts upto 30kg on front-3, back-3 & front-3 crimp (only 25kg on LH 3-finger crimp). After work core, armaid & eccentric session.
T - Lunchtime bike; 27km with some quite intense intervals. Traffic was terrible and felt a bit knackered so sacked in the planned wall session and did foam rollering.
F - Nothing. Finish work and rush to excellent Paul Pritchard lecture
S - Bus stop – Dogged Forsinain Motspur Superdirect (8a) and had some good sequences by end of second go, but my hips were super tired – not the expected point of fatigue! TR tough guy on The Medium (8a) was dismal failure with sore tips & toes.
S - Repeat TR failures on The Medium after extended belay duties in Vivian (via quick ascent of Looning the Tube (E1 5a) - how had I missed this off my slate palmares?
Weight this morning 77.0 kg – lardy
STG – this week:
At least 4 rehab sessions – eccentrics - repeat
Avoid gluttony at training course this week and work xmas meal on friday.
Find a local gym that doesn’t rinse my wallet, and has ergos and deadlift facilities – failed again, but at least I’m getting out on the bike/lifting.
MTG – end of Dec:
Deadlift 1RM bodyweight with good form – done; new goal 90kg.
Record benchmarks for finger-strength and fitness, ideally on a lattice board at The Boardroom (compare to FoC to benchmark?)
Make training plan(s) for Chulilla in late Feb, and onwards to peaking in June/July for Kilnsey project
Put extra bolt in Malham route – Baba O’Riley, and investigate other FA options
LTG – end 2017:
8b in Chulilla in Feb.
The Wire, Parisella’s Cave.
The Traverse of the Gods.
Kilnsey Project(s).
Bonuses: Malham project(?), Gorge project(s), Tor link-up project, The Brute.
In reply to guy127917:
Good morning! My Post xmas-do hangover kept me in bed for most of yesterday!
I'm not as bad as I was, thanks
m - 5k run
t - 5.5k run
w -
t - 5k run
f - 5k run
s -
s -
Started the week with a 'do or die' attitude and I felt good for the couple of runs. Felt really tired by the end of the week though and the intent to parkrun evaporated. Not sure if I still have the virus or if the winter blues are settling in, but I have no motivation to do anything
> Good morning, hopefully FitClub 508 finds you all well, and not too stuffed and hungover from xmas parties and instead getting out in the wonderful sun today?
Good morning! My Post xmas-do hangover kept me in bed for most of yesterday!
> Hokkyo: Recovery?
I'm not as bad as I was, thanks
m - 5k run
t - 5.5k run
w -
t - 5k run
f - 5k run
s -
s -
Started the week with a 'do or die' attitude and I felt good for the couple of runs. Felt really tired by the end of the week though and the intent to parkrun evaporated. Not sure if I still have the virus or if the winter blues are settling in, but I have no motivation to do anything
In reply to guy127917:
Just back from an unsuccessful trip to Siurana. Usually I can rely on good tactics to disguise some of my physical short comings but this week has been a lesson in how not to do things.....
M: Got on Mandrágora (7b+) in full sun, spent 30 minutes pulling on the smallest holds in the valley in the full sun failing to get a sequence through the crux, lowered off with fingers screaming. Went up again in sun, finally worked a sequence which would work and clawed my way to the top bolt to bolt.
T: No skin, got on route with the third smallest holds in the valley (El corridón de la muerte (7b)) in the full sun. Dogged to top, fell off on RP then sent next go (in the shade, I was starting to learn.....)
W: Rest, skin too thin to even make a cuppa
T: Tried Tagediebe (7c) expecting it to be in the shade. Found myself pulling on the second smallest set of holds in the valley in the full sun. After two goes literally could not find a sequence to the chains despite this supposedly being soft, can only assume you need to do a big loop out right? After looking at Bistec de bíceps (7b+) for 20 years thinking "that looks easy" I finally pulled on and promptly lowered off. Finished with an OS of Güate aquí hay tomate (7a)
F: Dogged up L'escamarlà (7c+), found it all desperate apart from the crux. Decided to have one more spin and bolt to bolted quite comfortably. I secretly let myself believe.....
S: Went bolt to bolt on Escamarla to warm up. Lowered off after 5 bolts, spent. Grunted my way up D'estranquis (6c) and Junta culata (6c+) (hard) as consolation ticks as I knew I'd not done them before only to discover later I had.
S: Travel day but quickly snagged ascents of 6b+, 6b and 6c while partner managed an eleventh hour send of La cara que no miente (8a+) so bizarrely the most successful day of the trip!
So mistakes made:
Turned up unfit
Tried to disguise the above by doing three bouldering sessions in the week before coming out so started with thin skin.
Repeatedly getting on routes with small sharp holds in full sun and then persevering with same when common sense told me to stop.
Possibly, most importantly, booking trip a day too short so couldn't fit in normal two days on, one day off.
Climbing routes I'd done before so no consolation ticks.
Poor route choice
Not warming up?
Having weighed myself this morning I can also add eating too many hamburgesa from Goma II to the list!
Just back from an unsuccessful trip to Siurana. Usually I can rely on good tactics to disguise some of my physical short comings but this week has been a lesson in how not to do things.....
M: Got on Mandrágora (7b+) in full sun, spent 30 minutes pulling on the smallest holds in the valley in the full sun failing to get a sequence through the crux, lowered off with fingers screaming. Went up again in sun, finally worked a sequence which would work and clawed my way to the top bolt to bolt.
T: No skin, got on route with the third smallest holds in the valley (El corridón de la muerte (7b)) in the full sun. Dogged to top, fell off on RP then sent next go (in the shade, I was starting to learn.....)
W: Rest, skin too thin to even make a cuppa
T: Tried Tagediebe (7c) expecting it to be in the shade. Found myself pulling on the second smallest set of holds in the valley in the full sun. After two goes literally could not find a sequence to the chains despite this supposedly being soft, can only assume you need to do a big loop out right? After looking at Bistec de bíceps (7b+) for 20 years thinking "that looks easy" I finally pulled on and promptly lowered off. Finished with an OS of Güate aquí hay tomate (7a)
F: Dogged up L'escamarlà (7c+), found it all desperate apart from the crux. Decided to have one more spin and bolt to bolted quite comfortably. I secretly let myself believe.....
S: Went bolt to bolt on Escamarla to warm up. Lowered off after 5 bolts, spent. Grunted my way up D'estranquis (6c) and Junta culata (6c+) (hard) as consolation ticks as I knew I'd not done them before only to discover later I had.
S: Travel day but quickly snagged ascents of 6b+, 6b and 6c while partner managed an eleventh hour send of La cara que no miente (8a+) so bizarrely the most successful day of the trip!
So mistakes made:
Turned up unfit
Tried to disguise the above by doing three bouldering sessions in the week before coming out so started with thin skin.
Repeatedly getting on routes with small sharp holds in full sun and then persevering with same when common sense told me to stop.
Possibly, most importantly, booking trip a day too short so couldn't fit in normal two days on, one day off.
Climbing routes I'd done before so no consolation ticks.
Poor route choice
Not warming up?
Having weighed myself this morning I can also add eating too many hamburgesa from Goma II to the list!
Post edited at 09:46
2
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. Week 1 of the plan. I think this was supposed to be a bit of an easing in week but it was still a tad hard to juggle round family life. The thing that ended up being skimped on was core & rehab, which I'll have to be careful over.
M - cycle commute. Yoga.
T - cycle commute. Fingerboard. Warmup then 7/3/6/3 on each of 18mm 4 finger drag, 3 finger drag, 4 finger 1/2 crimp, twice for each.
W - cycle commute. Core & press-ups. 2 mile walk.
T - TCA. Warmed up playing on the schools comp problems, some of which are seriously hard. Then 1 min on, 2 mins off on various 7a/7a+ circuits for 10 iterations.
F - TCA. Warmed up on the V1-3 set, then 15 mins each trying really hard on a couple of problems around V5 and steep. Progress on both but no ticks. 1 arm rows, 10 each side. 10min on, 10 min off for 3 iterations on 6b & 6a. The 6b was a bit too steep and thuggy, the 6a probably a bit too easy. 2 mile walk.
S - absolutely nothing. Drove to South coast.
S - glorious sunshine. Spent whole day with AJM, trying Fighting Torque. Easy first section wired. Did the easy-ish top 2 clips once and found them remarkably scary. This bit definitely needs to be totally wired too. Middle 2 clips ie the hard bit - haven't yet got a sequence that works to get to up and up the (poor) undercuts. After that the go left method I don't have the wingspan for. Spent some time on the go right method, using 2 rat crimps. It has possibilities but the missing foothold was definitely a blow.
Really excellent day yesterday. Only downside is that, although my R shoulder currently feels fairly ok, my left ring finger is not a happy bunny.
Thanks Guy. Week 1 of the plan. I think this was supposed to be a bit of an easing in week but it was still a tad hard to juggle round family life. The thing that ended up being skimped on was core & rehab, which I'll have to be careful over.
M - cycle commute. Yoga.
T - cycle commute. Fingerboard. Warmup then 7/3/6/3 on each of 18mm 4 finger drag, 3 finger drag, 4 finger 1/2 crimp, twice for each.
W - cycle commute. Core & press-ups. 2 mile walk.
T - TCA. Warmed up playing on the schools comp problems, some of which are seriously hard. Then 1 min on, 2 mins off on various 7a/7a+ circuits for 10 iterations.
F - TCA. Warmed up on the V1-3 set, then 15 mins each trying really hard on a couple of problems around V5 and steep. Progress on both but no ticks. 1 arm rows, 10 each side. 10min on, 10 min off for 3 iterations on 6b & 6a. The 6b was a bit too steep and thuggy, the 6a probably a bit too easy. 2 mile walk.
S - absolutely nothing. Drove to South coast.
S - glorious sunshine. Spent whole day with AJM, trying Fighting Torque. Easy first section wired. Did the easy-ish top 2 clips once and found them remarkably scary. This bit definitely needs to be totally wired too. Middle 2 clips ie the hard bit - haven't yet got a sequence that works to get to up and up the (poor) undercuts. After that the go left method I don't have the wingspan for. Spent some time on the go right method, using 2 rat crimps. It has possibilities but the missing foothold was definitely a blow.
Really excellent day yesterday. Only downside is that, although my R shoulder currently feels fairly ok, my left ring finger is not a happy bunny.
Post edited at 10:48
1
In reply to guy127917:
M-Nothing
T-Nothing
W-Nothing
T-Nothing
F-Nothing
S-Hungover but then did a small session down the wall.
S-Another short session down the wall. Ticked a couple of harder problems I hadn't done before.
M-Nothing
T-Nothing
W-Nothing
T-Nothing
F-Nothing
S-Hungover but then did a small session down the wall.
S-Another short session down the wall. Ticked a couple of harder problems I hadn't done before.
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy,
I didn't even hand my scoresheet in, what a pointless exercise!
The 10 session week went really well, I got everything done, to be fair, some of the sessions aren't that significant so it's entirely feasible.
The rings and bar session is only 3 different exercises, the core session takes around 40 minutes, most of the climbing sessions aren't far off an hour so it's not too bonkers.
M: Indoor boulder; continuity, 3 x 8mins on, 8 mins off. Hamstring stretches.
T: Indoor boulder; linked boulder, 1.5 sets, 4 reps long problem.
Core. Hamstrings
W: Nowt
T: Indoor boulder; Triples, 6 sets of 3 reps short problem.
Core. Hamstrings
F: Rings and weighted pullups, 2 at +45kg, 3 sets.
Fingerboard repeaters, 7/3 on AA pocket 6 reps, 4 sets with +10kg
S: Indoor routes; polarised continuity at 7a+/6a. Hamstrings
S: Rings and weighted pullups, 2 at +45kg, 3 sets.
Fingerboard repeaters, 7/3 on AA pocket 6 reps, 4 sets with +8kg
Hamstrings.
One great thing about this week is that i've had no elbow issues at all! That volume of work would usually result in a guaranteed issue or three, but I've had nothing. I was even messing about on Tuesday doing one-arm hangs and trying to do Magnus Midtbo-style one-arm campus jumps on the big rungs (I'm surprisingly close) and still my elbows are happy. That's conditioning for you I guess.
I kind of want to add the one arm campus jump as a goal, but it's a silly thing to do with no real climbing benefit so I won't use it as a goal, I can almost guarantee i'll try it a few more times though...
Dodgy knuckle is also feeling decidedly less dodgy, I still tape it but there is no longer any swelling or tenderness, good news.
Next week is pretty much the same, another 10 session epic, here's hoping the elbows hang on in there!
The coolest news of the week is that for some reason I've been invited to go on a trip to Spain with the Lattice team and a select group of their clients!
Apparently it's a little 'thankyou' from Tom and team for people that they thought have been positive, trained hard and shown good progress, stuff like that. In my case I think it's because I use so many exclamation marks in my weekly report to Tom...
We are going to Santa Linya and Oliana in Feb, based on the people who are going, it looks like I'll be getting burnt off left right and centre, but hopefully someone might put up an 8a whilst warming up that I can get on. I had to negotiate hard with Mrs Dandan to be able to go, so I'm only going for 5 of the 8/9 days, should be plenty of time to break myself!
So any recommendations in the low 8's for either location would be great, I've not been to either.
Last weeks STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session - 5/7 days, happy with that!
Tick the new 7c at Warwick Uni - partner bailed all week!
Ask Mac to recommend some 8a+ in Margalef - Got some from Ally at least...
New STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session -
Tick the new 7c at Warwick Uni -
Ask Mac to recommend some 8a+ in Margalef -
MTG: (this year)
Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Going well
Get outside if weather allows - 1
Tick another 7c/7c+ outside -
LTG: (next Year)
8a+
Pull on to Photo Shot (8b)
Re-test on the Lattice board, booked in for Feb, hoping for 100 moves max
> DanDan: Hope you enjoyed being a ringer in the beginner climbing comp! 10 sessions in a week… will be interested to see how you fit this in with decent recovery.
Cheers Guy,
I didn't even hand my scoresheet in, what a pointless exercise!
The 10 session week went really well, I got everything done, to be fair, some of the sessions aren't that significant so it's entirely feasible.
The rings and bar session is only 3 different exercises, the core session takes around 40 minutes, most of the climbing sessions aren't far off an hour so it's not too bonkers.
M: Indoor boulder; continuity, 3 x 8mins on, 8 mins off. Hamstring stretches.
T: Indoor boulder; linked boulder, 1.5 sets, 4 reps long problem.
Core. Hamstrings
W: Nowt
T: Indoor boulder; Triples, 6 sets of 3 reps short problem.
Core. Hamstrings
F: Rings and weighted pullups, 2 at +45kg, 3 sets.
Fingerboard repeaters, 7/3 on AA pocket 6 reps, 4 sets with +10kg
S: Indoor routes; polarised continuity at 7a+/6a. Hamstrings
S: Rings and weighted pullups, 2 at +45kg, 3 sets.
Fingerboard repeaters, 7/3 on AA pocket 6 reps, 4 sets with +8kg
Hamstrings.
One great thing about this week is that i've had no elbow issues at all! That volume of work would usually result in a guaranteed issue or three, but I've had nothing. I was even messing about on Tuesday doing one-arm hangs and trying to do Magnus Midtbo-style one-arm campus jumps on the big rungs (I'm surprisingly close) and still my elbows are happy. That's conditioning for you I guess.
I kind of want to add the one arm campus jump as a goal, but it's a silly thing to do with no real climbing benefit so I won't use it as a goal, I can almost guarantee i'll try it a few more times though...
Dodgy knuckle is also feeling decidedly less dodgy, I still tape it but there is no longer any swelling or tenderness, good news.
Next week is pretty much the same, another 10 session epic, here's hoping the elbows hang on in there!
The coolest news of the week is that for some reason I've been invited to go on a trip to Spain with the Lattice team and a select group of their clients!
Apparently it's a little 'thankyou' from Tom and team for people that they thought have been positive, trained hard and shown good progress, stuff like that. In my case I think it's because I use so many exclamation marks in my weekly report to Tom...
We are going to Santa Linya and Oliana in Feb, based on the people who are going, it looks like I'll be getting burnt off left right and centre, but hopefully someone might put up an 8a whilst warming up that I can get on. I had to negotiate hard with Mrs Dandan to be able to go, so I'm only going for 5 of the 8/9 days, should be plenty of time to break myself!
So any recommendations in the low 8's for either location would be great, I've not been to either.
Last weeks STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session - 5/7 days, happy with that!
Tick the new 7c at Warwick Uni - partner bailed all week!
Ask Mac to recommend some 8a+ in Margalef - Got some from Ally at least...
New STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session -
Tick the new 7c at Warwick Uni -
Ask Mac to recommend some 8a+ in Margalef -
MTG: (this year)
Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Going well
Get outside if weather allows - 1
Tick another 7c/7c+ outside -
LTG: (next Year)
8a+
Pull on to Photo Shot (8b)
Re-test on the Lattice board, booked in for Feb, hoping for 100 moves max
5
In reply to Dandan:
Really glad to hear your elbows are playing ball with all that volume!
Sounds boss!
Oliana, 8a: Mishi is pretty much it at that grade. Boulder problem, rest, 7c to the top. Flash it? Marroncita, L2, 8b could be one to work?
Santa Linya, 8a:
Airline, L2 - stamina - crux at the top
Pegue Nocturno - crux on pockets, high in the grade
Trio Ternura - probably pi$$ for someone of your obvious power - 3 bolt intensity, then keep it together up 7b/+ jugs to the top - again, a good flash prospect? The 8a+ El Koala (ex. 8b) version just right could have your name on it too?
Really glad to hear your elbows are playing ball with all that volume!
> The coolest news of the week is that for some reason I've been invited to go on a trip to Spain with the Lattice team and a select group of their clients!
Sounds boss!
> So any recommendations in the low 8's for either location would be great, I've not been to either.
Oliana, 8a: Mishi is pretty much it at that grade. Boulder problem, rest, 7c to the top. Flash it? Marroncita, L2, 8b could be one to work?
Santa Linya, 8a:
Airline, L2 - stamina - crux at the top
Pegue Nocturno - crux on pockets, high in the grade
Trio Ternura - probably pi$$ for someone of your obvious power - 3 bolt intensity, then keep it together up 7b/+ jugs to the top - again, a good flash prospect? The 8a+ El Koala (ex. 8b) version just right could have your name on it too?
1
In reply to guy127917:
It's got some cool moves on it. The original method seems to involve cranking on sidepulls and gastons with no feet, and the newfangled way has a heel or toe hook and then some slapping about. Intriguing stuff!
A pretty good week.
- Didn't get my project at the wall before reset sadly but did work pretty hard on it. Shoulders feeling it a bit after that though so need to keep an eye on them - the odd twinge every now and again although I've yet to work out what the specific activator is.
- Really solid back 3 fingerboard session, feeling comfortable on the grip in a way I wasn't really before. Doing double pullups with about +5kg. That's only about 20kg down on my performance on the four finger grip on a slightly different hold - have to experiment to see whether this points to future gains on 4 fingers (10kg through an index finger isn't much, right?), to a difference in holds (I've always found the test edge harder, which was what I was using this time, so maybe not), or to the weakness being in shoulders rather than fingers (I've never actually tried doing severely weighted stuff on jugs).
- a day on fighting torque with Helen. 3-4 trips up it in all. A little baffled by the right hand method - standing on nothing whilst pulling on sidepulls. Perhaps because the moves are more basic and because there are loads of usable (if still small) feet out left it felt like good progress going out left, maybe a move or two missing at the top of the crux but done everything else on it I think. Sure putting it together and getting the slappy bits balanced and stuff will be a challenge.
Also started having a think about training priorities. Things that would be good:
- Progress on back3 and measurable improvements on the 2rm pullups (previous pb about 102kg?) and the small edge crimps (pb I forget, but bw+15kg-ish)
- Monitor a lactate curve on my foc setup, be able to comfortably use it for aerobic training somehow and then actually do it
- actually work on long standing weaknesses - flexibility, bm2k slopers, shoulder/back muscles (trx, deadlift, front lever progress)
- probably no point in anticipating significant outdoor mileage from new year through to May-ish
- 1-4-6?
Thoughts as ever welcomed.
> AJM: FT- “A ferocious test-piece with unlikely moves”… sounds lovely!
It's got some cool moves on it. The original method seems to involve cranking on sidepulls and gastons with no feet, and the newfangled way has a heel or toe hook and then some slapping about. Intriguing stuff!
A pretty good week.
- Didn't get my project at the wall before reset sadly but did work pretty hard on it. Shoulders feeling it a bit after that though so need to keep an eye on them - the odd twinge every now and again although I've yet to work out what the specific activator is.
- Really solid back 3 fingerboard session, feeling comfortable on the grip in a way I wasn't really before. Doing double pullups with about +5kg. That's only about 20kg down on my performance on the four finger grip on a slightly different hold - have to experiment to see whether this points to future gains on 4 fingers (10kg through an index finger isn't much, right?), to a difference in holds (I've always found the test edge harder, which was what I was using this time, so maybe not), or to the weakness being in shoulders rather than fingers (I've never actually tried doing severely weighted stuff on jugs).
- a day on fighting torque with Helen. 3-4 trips up it in all. A little baffled by the right hand method - standing on nothing whilst pulling on sidepulls. Perhaps because the moves are more basic and because there are loads of usable (if still small) feet out left it felt like good progress going out left, maybe a move or two missing at the top of the crux but done everything else on it I think. Sure putting it together and getting the slappy bits balanced and stuff will be a challenge.
Also started having a think about training priorities. Things that would be good:
- Progress on back3 and measurable improvements on the 2rm pullups (previous pb about 102kg?) and the small edge crimps (pb I forget, but bw+15kg-ish)
- Monitor a lactate curve on my foc setup, be able to comfortably use it for aerobic training somehow and then actually do it
- actually work on long standing weaknesses - flexibility, bm2k slopers, shoulder/back muscles (trx, deadlift, front lever progress)
- probably no point in anticipating significant outdoor mileage from new year through to May-ish
- 1-4-6?
Thoughts as ever welcomed.
Post edited at 21:17
2
In reply to AJM:
Note to remind self - fingerboard weights from trawling back through historic FC look like 101.5 for the 2rm and 90.3 for the bm2k crimps.
Note to remind self - fingerboard weights from trawling back through historic FC look like 101.5 for the 2rm and 90.3 for the bm2k crimps.
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy
I had a bit of a poor week this week with the running and weight loss I've actually put on weight but I'm going to blame it on the wife's birthday and I ate and drank way too much. It my anniversary this weekend as well so I can see myself doing the same again
Last Weeks Goals
Weigh 78kg - Fail gone back up to 80kg
Run twice or mountain walk - Fail
Climb twice - 1 session of 4x4 - Tick
- 1 session climbing no harder than 6a and ensuring good footwork and climbing style - Tick
This weeks goals
Weigh 79kg
Run twice or mountain walk
Climb twice - 1 session of 4x4
- 1 session climbing no harder than 6a and ensuring good footwork and climbing style
Mid term goals (now till March next year)
Gain lots of winter experience walking and climbing, would like to have a go at the following routes
Number Three Gully Buttress (III)
Raeburn's Gully (I)
Fingers Ridge (IV 4)
Spiral Gully (II)
Fiacaill Ridge (I/II)
Aladdin's Mirror Direct (IV 4)Aladdin's Couloir (I)
Lots of hillwalking and wildcamping and gain enough experience to do my ML training next year (solid navigation, 10 hour plus Hill day)
A peak bouldering trip
Long term goal (Summer 2017)
Start season climbing HVS
Progress quickly to e grades and becoming solid at e1 by the end of the season
M - Climbing doing 4x4
T - Rest
W - Climbing routes
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Drunk
S - Drunk
Happy Training
Lee
Thanks Guy
I had a bit of a poor week this week with the running and weight loss I've actually put on weight but I'm going to blame it on the wife's birthday and I ate and drank way too much. It my anniversary this weekend as well so I can see myself doing the same again
Last Weeks Goals
Weigh 78kg - Fail gone back up to 80kg
Run twice or mountain walk - Fail
Climb twice - 1 session of 4x4 - Tick
- 1 session climbing no harder than 6a and ensuring good footwork and climbing style - Tick
This weeks goals
Weigh 79kg
Run twice or mountain walk
Climb twice - 1 session of 4x4
- 1 session climbing no harder than 6a and ensuring good footwork and climbing style
Mid term goals (now till March next year)
Gain lots of winter experience walking and climbing, would like to have a go at the following routes
Number Three Gully Buttress (III)
Raeburn's Gully (I)
Fingers Ridge (IV 4)
Spiral Gully (II)
Fiacaill Ridge (I/II)
Aladdin's Mirror Direct (IV 4)Aladdin's Couloir (I)
Lots of hillwalking and wildcamping and gain enough experience to do my ML training next year (solid navigation, 10 hour plus Hill day)
A peak bouldering trip
Long term goal (Summer 2017)
Start season climbing HVS
Progress quickly to e grades and becoming solid at e1 by the end of the season
M - Climbing doing 4x4
T - Rest
W - Climbing routes
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Drunk
S - Drunk
Happy Training
Lee
In reply to guy127917:
It's been an eventful few weeks. I'm going to post details of my El Chorro trip next week. I don't want to build any suspense, but I made good effort on an 8a, but couldn't send it. I was happy with my performance. I'm back in Chorro on the 28th and it's game on!
Mon - Short Fingerboard and half a set of double circuits 7a+ into 6c+
Tue - Rest
Wed - Lattice retest
Thur - Rest
Fri - Fly out to El Chorro
The lattice retest was very informative. The good news is that aerobic system is in excellent shape, but unfortunately my anaerobic system hasn't hit the desired level. I'm really pleased to know this, because although it makes sense with considering my own observations of how I've been climbing, I had thought that it was the other way round. This is something that we can continue to fix. Finger strength is towards the low end of 8a, but this was not something that I had prioritized.
I have decided on a significant shift in focus for next year. This was great to chat about with Ollie and I'm going to continue to work with Lattice team with this. After my new year trip to El Chorro I will focus on bouldering for 2017 and all my goals will be boulder related. In the beginning of the year, I hope to tick a number of limestone problems in the Peak that I've tried, but not managed to send, such as A Bigger Tail (f7A), Kudos (f7B), Caviar Start (f7B), Saline Drip Start (f7A), Basher's Problem (f7A), Rattle and Hump Start (f7A+), Out of My Tree Start (f7B) with the idea of moving towards harder or longer things later in the year with a goal of Powerband (f7C) at the end of the year. In the long term I see myself as a sport climb, but I'm pysched for a change and I think a year of bouldering would be a lot of fun, and help the sport climbing in the long term.
Helmet away and beanie on!
It's been an eventful few weeks. I'm going to post details of my El Chorro trip next week. I don't want to build any suspense, but I made good effort on an 8a, but couldn't send it. I was happy with my performance. I'm back in Chorro on the 28th and it's game on!
Mon - Short Fingerboard and half a set of double circuits 7a+ into 6c+
Tue - Rest
Wed - Lattice retest
Thur - Rest
Fri - Fly out to El Chorro
The lattice retest was very informative. The good news is that aerobic system is in excellent shape, but unfortunately my anaerobic system hasn't hit the desired level. I'm really pleased to know this, because although it makes sense with considering my own observations of how I've been climbing, I had thought that it was the other way round. This is something that we can continue to fix. Finger strength is towards the low end of 8a, but this was not something that I had prioritized.
I have decided on a significant shift in focus for next year. This was great to chat about with Ollie and I'm going to continue to work with Lattice team with this. After my new year trip to El Chorro I will focus on bouldering for 2017 and all my goals will be boulder related. In the beginning of the year, I hope to tick a number of limestone problems in the Peak that I've tried, but not managed to send, such as A Bigger Tail (f7A), Kudos (f7B), Caviar Start (f7B), Saline Drip Start (f7A), Basher's Problem (f7A), Rattle and Hump Start (f7A+), Out of My Tree Start (f7B) with the idea of moving towards harder or longer things later in the year with a goal of Powerband (f7C) at the end of the year. In the long term I see myself as a sport climb, but I'm pysched for a change and I think a year of bouldering would be a lot of fun, and help the sport climbing in the long term.
Helmet away and beanie on!
3
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy.
This week, fingerboard and conditioning and an impromptu ski tour trip to the Tyrol, so nowhere near a wall except setting a comp for the kids I coach on Monday.
M - coaching, fingerboard
T - conditioning
W - core
T - travel day + 3 hours piste skiing
F-S - ski touring for 5/6 hours.
Feeling fitness gains by the end and mind much better for having been in the mountains. 2 weeks of mum treatment programme and work to survive before Mallorca.
Goals for trip:
- Have fun
- Redpoint 7a+/7b (aka learn to redpoint - I've not really done much sport so have a trad onsight approach to date. Virtually no sport leading this year indoor or out so no idea where I'll be. Last thing I did was onsight 7a in Jan.
- Volume in high 6s
Thanks Guy.
This week, fingerboard and conditioning and an impromptu ski tour trip to the Tyrol, so nowhere near a wall except setting a comp for the kids I coach on Monday.
M - coaching, fingerboard
T - conditioning
W - core
T - travel day + 3 hours piste skiing
F-S - ski touring for 5/6 hours.
Feeling fitness gains by the end and mind much better for having been in the mountains. 2 weeks of mum treatment programme and work to survive before Mallorca.
Goals for trip:
- Have fun
- Redpoint 7a+/7b (aka learn to redpoint - I've not really done much sport so have a trad onsight approach to date. Virtually no sport leading this year indoor or out so no idea where I'll be. Last thing I did was onsight 7a in Jan.
- Volume in high 6s
Post edited at 07:52
In reply to guy127917:
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - 13st 8lbs (STS)
M - Yoga
T - Rest
W - Indoor routes - 30 routes
T - Rest
F - Indoor routes - 6as
S - Rest
S - Rest
Did some yoga at the start of the week which ended up hurting quite a bit. Got a decent volume of indoor routes done this week. Then went along on Friday for a 'hard stuff' session and got a few 6as done, first ones since coming back from my illness. Hope to do the same this week. Very late post, sorry.
Goals from last week:
2 climb - done
1 yoga - done
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - 13st 8lbs (STS)
M - Yoga
T - Rest
W - Indoor routes - 30 routes
T - Rest
F - Indoor routes - 6as
S - Rest
S - Rest
Did some yoga at the start of the week which ended up hurting quite a bit. Got a decent volume of indoor routes done this week. Then went along on Friday for a 'hard stuff' session and got a few 6as done, first ones since coming back from my illness. Hope to do the same this week. Very late post, sorry.
Goals from last week:
2 climb - done
1 yoga - done
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