In reply to AlanLittle:
> The problems I could see with the fixed route or traverse would be that you'd get too efficient at that particular sequence so wouldn't be measuring only physical gains
I think that's true but if you keep training on the same route/traverse then eventually the improvements in efficiency bottom out and variation in performance is down to changes in fitness. In the Peak there are various routes that a lot of people seem to have very wired. Sardine at Raven Tor springs to mind. Some climbers tend to do it every visit as a rather strenuous warm up so have the route completely dialled. But even then there are problems with certain failure points like at the crux sections.
I agree with the point about temporary indoor routes. Another alternative is old skool brick wall traversing.
As you say this seems like the kind of thing the lattice board is used for. However even that can have problems. I heard about one young member of the British team who could basically recover on it and hence stay on indefinitely.