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Twas the week before Christmas, and FitClub was ever so quiet… hopefully it will become merry when you all post wonderful updates about your week!
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week’s thread can be found here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=654818
TheSheep: You sounded pretty down in your last update, feeling better this week?
Si: Conditions were decent this weekend- any joy?
biscuit: How did routes go- endurance as big an issue as you thought?
planetmarshall: Sounds like a good week of training. Have you been seeking measurable progress between mesocycle weeks 1 and 3?
IanBell: Look forward to seeing you back in 2017 with some goals and a plan!!
Ally: You have a MTG of training plan for Chililla onwards- hows this going?
TonyB: Interesting stuff, very good to hear you have new specific goals and are psyched for 2017. The lattice test sounds great. Do let us know details of your Chorro trip…
Hokkyo: What’s your normal weekly mileage?
Tyler: Thanks for the entertaining trip report! Are those mistakes lessons learned or would you do it all again?
hms: Week 1 sounds like it went well, did you get back on Fighting Torque?
JayK: Been out in the peak this week?
DanDan: Lattice team trip sounds awesome, some additional psych for the next couple of months!
AJM: Interesting- i’ve never thought about load on individual fingers/grips like that. I might have do try a few things out…. 102kg additional weight for 2rm 4 finger grip though?!
LeeBoy: Happy Anniversary!
TinTin: enjoy the trip, any routes in Majorca you have your eye on?
MattRm: nice one ticking your STG, keep it up.30 routes in a session sounds intense!
3
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy,
So far I am pleased with making several short trips to El Chorro, and think this is a better strategy for me over one longer trip. With 3 day trips, I don’t need to take a rest day. El Chorro works as the journey time is relatively short, and conditions are usually reliable. Originally the plan was two trips lasting three days each, followed by a longer one over New Year. Ryan Air rearranged the flights such that both the shorter trips were extended to five days. Five days is a more challenging amount of time, and probably would work best with taking the third off.
On the first trip (last month) I did two 7c’s, and had an exploratory look at an 8a that I thought I could look at on the future trip. I didn’t take a rest day on that trip, but only climbed for half a day on the third day taking it fairly easy. This seemed to work quite well, but I was ineffective on the fifth day.
My goal for this trip was to try and redpoint an 8a. I feel like I've taken the easy option on previous trips and tried routes that I'm fairly sure that I can do within the time available. This time I wanted to try something that might not go within the timescale, as it transpired I didn't get the 8a, but I'm back on the 28th Dec.....
The first day (Saturday) was the only cloudy day of the trip. We decided to take advantage of the shade and look at some of the climbs in the Poemia sector. The previous weeks had been really wet with flooding in Malaga and Alora. The caves were seeping badly and the conditions were really greasy. I’m sure we could have done something here, but after fairly poor conditions on the warm up we decided to go to the Arab Steps as they were exposed to the wind and might offer better conies. Certainly things were much better here. I made a very slow job of redpointing Rock the Kashbah (7b) (7b). I should have done it second go, but after a series of silly mistakes it took several more goes. In the afternoon, the sun came out and I ended up sending it less ideal conditions.
On Sunday we went to Bueno Sombre to look at Paquistani (8a). The warm up routes on the slabbier side were mostly dry, although some of the pockets were full of water. After warming up we went to look at the steeper side, it was basically black with every tufa route dripping. Paquistani looked better than most, but would have involved pulling on some pretty wet holds. We walked up past Vida Mesmo and Cable, and again most of the harder lines were seeping in places. I tried Akira (7b) as it looked dry only to find the middle part soaking wet. We ended up in Triangulo and got stuck into La Conexión Pelirroja (8a) (8a) as it looked like a great line and was almost all dry! It has some pretty technical sequences, and we started to work the first five bolts. It was a really engaging line and became the target of the trip.
There is a video of the route here youtube.com/watch?v=pON__QffuXA&
The route is quite pumpy with no good shake out until the 7th bolt. Thereafter, it steepens up but the holds are very positive. The person in the video is pretty tall, and my sequence differs in many ways. In the database, the route seems to sit between hard 7c+ and mid 8a. To me it feels tough and about the level that I was looking for, I suspect it is somewhat soft at the grade though. The section between 3rd-5th bolt is pretty hard, but for me the crux comes between the 6th-7th bolt. The cross over that he does at 2.34 is on a small crimp and is really hard (although I have never tried this with my feet where his are). Instead I have a complicated sequence taking the highest pocket as a gaston and with a whole myriad of foot adjustments. Including minor foot adjustments, I have 19 things to remember. This is way more complex, but individually the movements seem much more secure. After this there is a shake on good jugs, OK feet and a steep romp to glory on jugs. I don’t think I’m likely to fall off the top part unless I do something silly or I am very pumped.
We were back at Triangulo and on LCP on Monday, we went bolt to bolt to the top. I got the sequence sorted for the bottom and found something that would work through the section between bolts 6 and 7. However, it wasn’t a very good sequence. I had two days of climbing left. If I wasn’t coming back I think I would have taken a rest day and tried to send it on my last day. I knew that the section between bolts 6-7, wasn’t great and needed more work, so I decided not to take a rest day. I realized that this meant that I was unlikely to send the route, but on hindsight I think this was the right decision.
On Tuesday on my first go, I made a great link from the ground to past the 6th bolt. I don’t have the same sequence as the guy in the video but I got past the hold he catches at 2.41m. Although I was really happy with this link, the next part felt desperate and it took most of the day to get a more suitable sequence where I could do this reasonably solidly. On subsequent goes I got past the 6th bolt, but didn’t have the beans to finish the route.
On Wednesday I decided to give it my best effort and see what happens. I felt really tired warming up and was pretty worn out. On my best attempt I got from the ground to the 6th bolt, but just couldn’t do anything more. However, I made a couple of links from below the 6th bolt to the top, which I hadn’t done before. I was pretty wrecked.
Overall, I’m pretty sure that properly rested I would do much better. The big positives from the trip are; I feel fit enough that I can work on an 8a for multiple days on, and that I managed some pretty good links, linking the route in two overlapping sections.
Tactically, it would have been better not to have spent the first day at Arab Steps. If I had got straight onto the project, and had a rest day in the middle then things could have gone differently. I do think that multiple short trips work well for redpointing a hard line, it also relieves the pressure to send. I would have done this differently, if I hadn't been returning in a couple of weeks.
Thurs/Friday rest at home
Sat - Bouldering on the home wall.
Sun – Very short fingerboard recruitment.
Goals for next week.
I'm not going to get much done in the 10 days before I'm in El Chorro next. I'm going to focus on quality rather than quantity for the Christmas week, with the aim of two high quality sessions. I think resting is probably more important than training, so I aim for no late nights, minimal alchohol intake and a fairly healthy diet. My family will be around for Christmas so this isn't too easy.
Goals for the week El Chorro round 3
Climb LCP. This would be my second 8a.
I'll be climbing with my wife for part of the trip, so I'll like to focus on doing some fun stuff with her, rather than chasing goals. For the rest of the trip, given that I'll be changing focus to bouldering when I'm back, then I want to just have fun. I really like doing very short redpoints (things that I can do in a day). I'd really like to climb Zepelin too, as I haven't done much multipitch recently. I also want to try and flash 7b. I'm not too worried if I don't do this, but I'd like to give it my absolute best on a few routes and see what happens.
Thanks Guy,
So far I am pleased with making several short trips to El Chorro, and think this is a better strategy for me over one longer trip. With 3 day trips, I don’t need to take a rest day. El Chorro works as the journey time is relatively short, and conditions are usually reliable. Originally the plan was two trips lasting three days each, followed by a longer one over New Year. Ryan Air rearranged the flights such that both the shorter trips were extended to five days. Five days is a more challenging amount of time, and probably would work best with taking the third off.
On the first trip (last month) I did two 7c’s, and had an exploratory look at an 8a that I thought I could look at on the future trip. I didn’t take a rest day on that trip, but only climbed for half a day on the third day taking it fairly easy. This seemed to work quite well, but I was ineffective on the fifth day.
My goal for this trip was to try and redpoint an 8a. I feel like I've taken the easy option on previous trips and tried routes that I'm fairly sure that I can do within the time available. This time I wanted to try something that might not go within the timescale, as it transpired I didn't get the 8a, but I'm back on the 28th Dec.....
The first day (Saturday) was the only cloudy day of the trip. We decided to take advantage of the shade and look at some of the climbs in the Poemia sector. The previous weeks had been really wet with flooding in Malaga and Alora. The caves were seeping badly and the conditions were really greasy. I’m sure we could have done something here, but after fairly poor conditions on the warm up we decided to go to the Arab Steps as they were exposed to the wind and might offer better conies. Certainly things were much better here. I made a very slow job of redpointing Rock the Kashbah (7b) (7b). I should have done it second go, but after a series of silly mistakes it took several more goes. In the afternoon, the sun came out and I ended up sending it less ideal conditions.
On Sunday we went to Bueno Sombre to look at Paquistani (8a). The warm up routes on the slabbier side were mostly dry, although some of the pockets were full of water. After warming up we went to look at the steeper side, it was basically black with every tufa route dripping. Paquistani looked better than most, but would have involved pulling on some pretty wet holds. We walked up past Vida Mesmo and Cable, and again most of the harder lines were seeping in places. I tried Akira (7b) as it looked dry only to find the middle part soaking wet. We ended up in Triangulo and got stuck into La Conexión Pelirroja (8a) (8a) as it looked like a great line and was almost all dry! It has some pretty technical sequences, and we started to work the first five bolts. It was a really engaging line and became the target of the trip.
There is a video of the route here youtube.com/watch?v=pON__QffuXA&
The route is quite pumpy with no good shake out until the 7th bolt. Thereafter, it steepens up but the holds are very positive. The person in the video is pretty tall, and my sequence differs in many ways. In the database, the route seems to sit between hard 7c+ and mid 8a. To me it feels tough and about the level that I was looking for, I suspect it is somewhat soft at the grade though. The section between 3rd-5th bolt is pretty hard, but for me the crux comes between the 6th-7th bolt. The cross over that he does at 2.34 is on a small crimp and is really hard (although I have never tried this with my feet where his are). Instead I have a complicated sequence taking the highest pocket as a gaston and with a whole myriad of foot adjustments. Including minor foot adjustments, I have 19 things to remember. This is way more complex, but individually the movements seem much more secure. After this there is a shake on good jugs, OK feet and a steep romp to glory on jugs. I don’t think I’m likely to fall off the top part unless I do something silly or I am very pumped.
We were back at Triangulo and on LCP on Monday, we went bolt to bolt to the top. I got the sequence sorted for the bottom and found something that would work through the section between bolts 6 and 7. However, it wasn’t a very good sequence. I had two days of climbing left. If I wasn’t coming back I think I would have taken a rest day and tried to send it on my last day. I knew that the section between bolts 6-7, wasn’t great and needed more work, so I decided not to take a rest day. I realized that this meant that I was unlikely to send the route, but on hindsight I think this was the right decision.
On Tuesday on my first go, I made a great link from the ground to past the 6th bolt. I don’t have the same sequence as the guy in the video but I got past the hold he catches at 2.41m. Although I was really happy with this link, the next part felt desperate and it took most of the day to get a more suitable sequence where I could do this reasonably solidly. On subsequent goes I got past the 6th bolt, but didn’t have the beans to finish the route.
On Wednesday I decided to give it my best effort and see what happens. I felt really tired warming up and was pretty worn out. On my best attempt I got from the ground to the 6th bolt, but just couldn’t do anything more. However, I made a couple of links from below the 6th bolt to the top, which I hadn’t done before. I was pretty wrecked.
Overall, I’m pretty sure that properly rested I would do much better. The big positives from the trip are; I feel fit enough that I can work on an 8a for multiple days on, and that I managed some pretty good links, linking the route in two overlapping sections.
Tactically, it would have been better not to have spent the first day at Arab Steps. If I had got straight onto the project, and had a rest day in the middle then things could have gone differently. I do think that multiple short trips work well for redpointing a hard line, it also relieves the pressure to send. I would have done this differently, if I hadn't been returning in a couple of weeks.
Thurs/Friday rest at home
Sat - Bouldering on the home wall.
Sun – Very short fingerboard recruitment.
Goals for next week.
I'm not going to get much done in the 10 days before I'm in El Chorro next. I'm going to focus on quality rather than quantity for the Christmas week, with the aim of two high quality sessions. I think resting is probably more important than training, so I aim for no late nights, minimal alchohol intake and a fairly healthy diet. My family will be around for Christmas so this isn't too easy.
Goals for the week El Chorro round 3
Climb LCP. This would be my second 8a.
I'll be climbing with my wife for part of the trip, so I'll like to focus on doing some fun stuff with her, rather than chasing goals. For the rest of the trip, given that I'll be changing focus to bouldering when I'm back, then I want to just have fun. I really like doing very short redpoints (things that I can do in a day). I'd really like to climb Zepelin too, as I haven't done much multipitch recently. I also want to try and flash 7b. I'm not too worried if I don't do this, but I'd like to give it my absolute best on a few routes and see what happens.
6
In reply to guy127917:
No - 102kg total. My weight varies depending on whether I'm trying to manage it (in prep for a trip) or not, so I don't track added weight I just track what the load on my fingers is. Give or take, its bw+30-ish.
> AJM: Interesting- i’ve never thought about load on individual fingers/grips like that. I might have do try a few things out…. 102kg additional weight for 2rm 4 finger grip though?!
No - 102kg total. My weight varies depending on whether I'm trying to manage it (in prep for a trip) or not, so I don't track added weight I just track what the load on my fingers is. Give or take, its bw+30-ish.
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. Yep, conditions have picked up again a bit. Unfortunately the heel is still bad although I think I can detect some very slow improvement now.
2016/17 winter goals (by end of February):
- Reduce weight (measured on a Sunday night) back to 11st 0lb (intermediate goal of 11st 3lb by Christmas)
- Do a few grit f7Bs (particularly keen for Suavito, Jerry's Traverse and Spare Rib, but keeping this flexible)
- Tetris (f7C)
2017 early spring goals (by end of April):
- Do lots of Font 7s in our trip in early March (target of 10+)
- Do Eastwood Traverse
- Try Powerband
M: rest.
T: Short fingerboard session: 7s on / 3s off x 6 reps x 3 sets with an 18 mm edge (half crimp), then did 2 max hangs on each arm with the front 3 in the good BM pockets (with bw -5.3kg). Felt weak on the repeaters and didn't have the motivation to carry on and do the full planned set, the max hangs were just to make me feel like I'd achived something with the evening..!
W: rest.
T: Fingerboard repeaters: 7s on / 3s off x 6 reps x 3 sets with an 18 mm edge (half crimp), then the same with front 3 in the bm2000 good pockets, then same again with back 3. Much better session than Tuesday, completed all sets fairly easily although I think I rested between goes more than usual as I was stuck in to writing something.
F: rest.
S: Back on Jerry's Traverse (f7B) again. Got my tactics wrong, did too much between rests early on, and then started trying from the start before I'd reconfirmed my sequence on the first crux. As a result I was getting tired by the time I eventually had it all completely wired and was making proper attempts. On the positive side though, I refined my forst-crux beta a bit making it a bit more reliable, and I had a couple of really good goes, just missed the hold on the second crux. Extremely close and should be back on Tuesday for another go. (+, after two rest days.)
S: rest.
I seem to need more rest between repeater sets now to be fully recovered (5 mins vs maybe 3-4 mins 6 months ago.) Not sure why this is or the best way to train it, but I expect it must translate to recovery between attempts outside too.
Injury catalogue: No issues with shoulder or fingers this week, been keeping up occasional rehab work. Heel feels like it's getting better but only very slowly.
Weight last night Sunday night was 11 st 4 lb. I've done well this week again except for the Christmas curry on Saturday eve, and I weighed in at 11 st 3 last night without it feeling like a fluke, so I can take the intermediate Christmas weight goal as a success I think.
Question: I've started using Powerfingers bands as a strengthing tool for my extensors the last few months. I can't decide if they help me but Gresham seems to swear by them. Do any of you use them, when/how, and with any noticeable results?
The ideal this week would be to get Jerry's done on Tuesday and then get out again on Thursday, maybe to try Eastwood again. Should probably aim to do a fingerboard sessuon xmas eve but not sure how much time I'll have.
Si
Thanks Guy. Yep, conditions have picked up again a bit. Unfortunately the heel is still bad although I think I can detect some very slow improvement now.
2016/17 winter goals (by end of February):
- Reduce weight (measured on a Sunday night) back to 11st 0lb (intermediate goal of 11st 3lb by Christmas)
- Do a few grit f7Bs (particularly keen for Suavito, Jerry's Traverse and Spare Rib, but keeping this flexible)
- Tetris (f7C)
2017 early spring goals (by end of April):
- Do lots of Font 7s in our trip in early March (target of 10+)
- Do Eastwood Traverse
- Try Powerband
M: rest.
T: Short fingerboard session: 7s on / 3s off x 6 reps x 3 sets with an 18 mm edge (half crimp), then did 2 max hangs on each arm with the front 3 in the good BM pockets (with bw -5.3kg). Felt weak on the repeaters and didn't have the motivation to carry on and do the full planned set, the max hangs were just to make me feel like I'd achived something with the evening..!
W: rest.
T: Fingerboard repeaters: 7s on / 3s off x 6 reps x 3 sets with an 18 mm edge (half crimp), then the same with front 3 in the bm2000 good pockets, then same again with back 3. Much better session than Tuesday, completed all sets fairly easily although I think I rested between goes more than usual as I was stuck in to writing something.
F: rest.
S: Back on Jerry's Traverse (f7B) again. Got my tactics wrong, did too much between rests early on, and then started trying from the start before I'd reconfirmed my sequence on the first crux. As a result I was getting tired by the time I eventually had it all completely wired and was making proper attempts. On the positive side though, I refined my forst-crux beta a bit making it a bit more reliable, and I had a couple of really good goes, just missed the hold on the second crux. Extremely close and should be back on Tuesday for another go. (+, after two rest days.)
S: rest.
I seem to need more rest between repeater sets now to be fully recovered (5 mins vs maybe 3-4 mins 6 months ago.) Not sure why this is or the best way to train it, but I expect it must translate to recovery between attempts outside too.
Injury catalogue: No issues with shoulder or fingers this week, been keeping up occasional rehab work. Heel feels like it's getting better but only very slowly.
Weight last night Sunday night was 11 st 4 lb. I've done well this week again except for the Christmas curry on Saturday eve, and I weighed in at 11 st 3 last night without it feeling like a fluke, so I can take the intermediate Christmas weight goal as a success I think.
Question: I've started using Powerfingers bands as a strengthing tool for my extensors the last few months. I can't decide if they help me but Gresham seems to swear by them. Do any of you use them, when/how, and with any noticeable results?
The ideal this week would be to get Jerry's done on Tuesday and then get out again on Thursday, maybe to try Eastwood again. Should probably aim to do a fingerboard sessuon xmas eve but not sure how much time I'll have.
Si
1
In reply to TonyB:
Sounds like a good trip Tony and the 8a looks cool. I'm sure the 7b was a big mistake though- after taking a full session to get up that you'd have been at least slightly tired the next day before even getting on the 8a for the first time, and that may have set you back for the rest of the trip? I'm coming purely from the angle of doing the 8a there of course, as opposed to enjoying the overall trip with a view to going back.
Sounds like a good trip Tony and the 8a looks cool. I'm sure the 7b was a big mistake though- after taking a full session to get up that you'd have been at least slightly tired the next day before even getting on the 8a for the first time, and that may have set you back for the rest of the trip? I'm coming purely from the angle of doing the 8a there of course, as opposed to enjoying the overall trip with a view to going back.
In reply to guy127917:
M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Unplanned rest, should have gone to board.
T: Lancashire house of pain, got. To top of steep board for possibly first time.
F: Uplanned rest
S: Depot, felt strangely sluggish, wondered if the Reds were harder this time.
S: Boulder UK, felt strangely sluggish and realised its not the grades, it's me!
This week I'll try and do some leg work as we're in Edinburgh for Christmas and I'd like to go for a run in the Pentlands, obviously 5 days is not long enough to train but I might reduce some of the shock
> Tyler: Thanks for the entertaining trip report! Are those mistakes lessons learned or would you do it all again?
To be honest, after 40+ trips like this they are either already learned or never going to be! M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Unplanned rest, should have gone to board.
T: Lancashire house of pain, got. To top of steep board for possibly first time.
F: Uplanned rest
S: Depot, felt strangely sluggish, wondered if the Reds were harder this time.
S: Boulder UK, felt strangely sluggish and realised its not the grades, it's me!
This week I'll try and do some leg work as we're in Edinburgh for Christmas and I'd like to go for a run in the Pentlands, obviously 5 days is not long enough to train but I might reduce some of the shock
1
In reply to guy127917:
I've written one lot of training plans, but that wasn't for me! Any semblance of a defined plan for myself has gone out the window whilst rehabbing my elbows; i'm still very much at a stage of take it as it comes...
Week 51:
M - Warm-up. Deadlift; 20x20kg, 10x35kg, 10x55kg, 1x81kg, 1x88.5kg, 1x91kg (New PB, 118%BW – need more weights now!) Semi-incline row. 2x20x35kg. Overhead press 2x10x35kg (hard). Lopez style hangs. Progressive, then 3x10s@+46.5kg. Press-ups.
T - Work course. Eccentrics & Armaid only
W - Work course – stretching only
T - Fun time at the Awful walls grade lottery; warm-up on the V6’s on the UKC side, then get shut down by V4’s on the steep side (couldn’t do, or even see how to do one of the green “V5’s” without putting my foot in a potentially knee wrecking heel-toe. Very brief 10min aero-cap warm-down. Hammer curl eccentrics and long stretching session in front of telli.
F - Sore biceps – probably from upping the hammer curl eccentric resistance – otherwise, nothing despite bailing very early from the work xmas do – bah humbug!
S - Minging foggy conditions, that didn’t want to clear, so ended up indoors. Got up the V5’s I couldn’t do on Thursday (ignored the prescribed method on the green V5 and lanked it out with a deep-lock). I even managed a V6 on the steep side (once a friend forced me to rest for 5min whilst regaling me with tales of TeamGB proclivities!) 10x 1on/1off on the auto-belay 6c+ & 7a. Core & antags.
S - Sore in most places. Llandegla Black; 22km, not on great form, but still only got overtaken when I stopped for a gel. Dabbed 3 times – certainly room for improvement. Hammer curl eccentrics.
Weight this morning ?? kg
STG – this week:
At least 4 rehab sessions – eccentrics – repeat
Scrubbed the gym ambition - ski trip is just round the corner and i've made do with some biking fitness
MTG – end of Dec:
Deadlift 1RM bodyweight with good form – done; new goal 90kg – done! Onwards to 100kg!
Record benchmarks for finger-strength and fitness, ideally on a lattice board at The Boardroom (compare to FoC to benchmark?)
Make training plan(s) for Chulilla in late Feb, and onwards to peaking in June/July for Kilnsey project
Put extra bolt in Malham route – Baba O’Riley, and investigate other FA options
LTG – end 2017:
8b in Chulilla in Feb.
The Wire, Parisella’s Cave.
The Traverse of the Gods.
Kilnsey Project(s).
Bonuses: Malham project(?), Gorge project(s), Tor link-up project, The Brute.
> Ally: You have a MTG of training plan for Chililla onwards - hows this going?
I've written one lot of training plans, but that wasn't for me! Any semblance of a defined plan for myself has gone out the window whilst rehabbing my elbows; i'm still very much at a stage of take it as it comes...
Week 51:
M - Warm-up. Deadlift; 20x20kg, 10x35kg, 10x55kg, 1x81kg, 1x88.5kg, 1x91kg (New PB, 118%BW – need more weights now!) Semi-incline row. 2x20x35kg. Overhead press 2x10x35kg (hard). Lopez style hangs. Progressive, then 3x10s@+46.5kg. Press-ups.
T - Work course. Eccentrics & Armaid only
W - Work course – stretching only
T - Fun time at the Awful walls grade lottery; warm-up on the V6’s on the UKC side, then get shut down by V4’s on the steep side (couldn’t do, or even see how to do one of the green “V5’s” without putting my foot in a potentially knee wrecking heel-toe. Very brief 10min aero-cap warm-down. Hammer curl eccentrics and long stretching session in front of telli.
F - Sore biceps – probably from upping the hammer curl eccentric resistance – otherwise, nothing despite bailing very early from the work xmas do – bah humbug!
S - Minging foggy conditions, that didn’t want to clear, so ended up indoors. Got up the V5’s I couldn’t do on Thursday (ignored the prescribed method on the green V5 and lanked it out with a deep-lock). I even managed a V6 on the steep side (once a friend forced me to rest for 5min whilst regaling me with tales of TeamGB proclivities!) 10x 1on/1off on the auto-belay 6c+ & 7a. Core & antags.
S - Sore in most places. Llandegla Black; 22km, not on great form, but still only got overtaken when I stopped for a gel. Dabbed 3 times – certainly room for improvement. Hammer curl eccentrics.
Weight this morning ?? kg
STG – this week:
At least 4 rehab sessions – eccentrics – repeat
Scrubbed the gym ambition - ski trip is just round the corner and i've made do with some biking fitness
MTG – end of Dec:
Deadlift 1RM bodyweight with good form – done; new goal 90kg – done! Onwards to 100kg!
Record benchmarks for finger-strength and fitness, ideally on a lattice board at The Boardroom (compare to FoC to benchmark?)
Make training plan(s) for Chulilla in late Feb, and onwards to peaking in June/July for Kilnsey project
Put extra bolt in Malham route – Baba O’Riley, and investigate other FA options
LTG – end 2017:
8b in Chulilla in Feb.
The Wire, Parisella’s Cave.
The Traverse of the Gods.
Kilnsey Project(s).
Bonuses: Malham project(?), Gorge project(s), Tor link-up project, The Brute.
In reply to Si dH:
You're right. The main reason I did it was that the person that I was with hadn't spent much time in El Chorro, and I didn't want to suggest that we spent everyday at the same sector. If this happens on the next trip, then I'll restrict myself to either belay duty or very easy climbing in favour of sessions on the 8a!
> I'm sure the 7b was a big mistake though- after taking a full session to get up that you'd have been at least slightly tired the next day before even getting on the 8a for the first time, and that may have set you back for the rest of the trip?
You're right. The main reason I did it was that the person that I was with hadn't spent much time in El Chorro, and I didn't want to suggest that we spent everyday at the same sector. If this happens on the next trip, then I'll restrict myself to either belay duty or very easy climbing in favour of sessions on the 8a!
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. I won't have chance to get back on FT for a while now I suspect. Had a busy week on plan:
Mon - cycle commute. Yoga in evening. This week was balance - you know it's tough when plank starts to feel like a rest position!
Tues - day off work. Went to TCA - 1 on 2 off circuits at around 7a, followed by continuity then sup strength in the evening.
Weds - cycle commute, home via UCR and another continuity session (nasty - their 6a circuit has been up 6 months and is really greasy). Also had a brief play on the new steep downstairs circuits and was deeply unimpressed. Their route setting has got really dire since they got a new chap in.
Thurs - work Christmas lunchtime do. Had planned on walking the 3 miles home, but got out to the restaurant to find it was raining heavily and I had no waterproof or brolly. Sulked on the bus then did sup strength & forearm curls in the evening.
Fri - TCA, boulder projects then 1 on/1 off lattice x10.
Sat - visited parents for Christmas lunch & present exchange. Rehab, stretching & press-ups in the evening.
Sun - TCA yet again. More boulder projects. Excellent session, felt utterly wiped out afterwards which I think must mean I was working hard!
Thanks Guy. I won't have chance to get back on FT for a while now I suspect. Had a busy week on plan:
Mon - cycle commute. Yoga in evening. This week was balance - you know it's tough when plank starts to feel like a rest position!
Tues - day off work. Went to TCA - 1 on 2 off circuits at around 7a, followed by continuity then sup strength in the evening.
Weds - cycle commute, home via UCR and another continuity session (nasty - their 6a circuit has been up 6 months and is really greasy). Also had a brief play on the new steep downstairs circuits and was deeply unimpressed. Their route setting has got really dire since they got a new chap in.
Thurs - work Christmas lunchtime do. Had planned on walking the 3 miles home, but got out to the restaurant to find it was raining heavily and I had no waterproof or brolly. Sulked on the bus then did sup strength & forearm curls in the evening.
Fri - TCA, boulder projects then 1 on/1 off lattice x10.
Sat - visited parents for Christmas lunch & present exchange. Rehab, stretching & press-ups in the evening.
Sun - TCA yet again. More boulder projects. Excellent session, felt utterly wiped out afterwards which I think must mean I was working hard!
2
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy,
It is a bit quite around here isn't it, a bit of excess mince pie guilt perhaps, or maybe everyone has gone on exciting winter trips?
Anyhoo, I'm still here and I've been working hard again this week!
M: Indoor Boulder; long problem, 4 reps, 2.5 min rest, 3 sets, 5 min rest between
Core, hamstrings.
T: Indoor boulder; short problem in triples, 6 sets
Hamstrings
W: Indoor routes; 1 min on 2 min off x10 at 7a+
Core, hamstrings.
T: Work xmas meal, distinct lack of gluttony on my part
F: Rings and pull ups.
Fingerboard; 2rm pullups at +50kg 3 sets, 7/3 repeaters on AA slot at +12kg, 4 sets
S: Indoor routes; polarised continuity at 7a+/6a
S: Rings and pull ups.
Fingerboard; 2rm pullups at +50kg 3 sets, 7/3 repeaters on AA slot at +12kg, 4 sets
Once again I'm really pleased to have got through the week without any form of injury, either old or new, my elbows have been absolutely solid throughout.
The plan eases off now for Christmas, I'm glad these intense two weeks are over but I'm not half as broken as I worried I might be.
Due to working away from home and lack of equipment in certain places, I'm forced to do fingerboard on Friday and then again on Sunday, something I'd rather put more time between, as indicated last week when I had to drop some weight off the repeaters on the Sunday. This week however, I went 5kg heavier on the pull ups, and 2kg heavier on the repeaters on Friday, then repeated the same weight on the Sunday! Can't deny the progress there.
Not much else happening, I'm hoping to get outside over the Christmas period if the weather plays ball, I have 12 days off in total which gives us a decent window.
Aside from that, it's on with the training!
Last weeks STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session - TICK!
Tick the new 7c at Warwick Uni - Fail, partner has a 'busy job' whatever that is.
Ask Mac to recommend some 8a+ in Margalef -
New STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session -
Repeat purple V8 -
Tick the new 7c at Warwick Uni -
Get outside this week -
MTG: (this year)
Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Going very well
Get outside if weather allows - 1
Tick another 7c/7c+ outside -
LTG: (next Year)
8a+
Pull on to Photo Shot (8b)
Re-test on the Lattice board, booked in for Feb, hoping for 100 moves max
Cheers Guy,
It is a bit quite around here isn't it, a bit of excess mince pie guilt perhaps, or maybe everyone has gone on exciting winter trips?
Anyhoo, I'm still here and I've been working hard again this week!
M: Indoor Boulder; long problem, 4 reps, 2.5 min rest, 3 sets, 5 min rest between
Core, hamstrings.
T: Indoor boulder; short problem in triples, 6 sets
Hamstrings
W: Indoor routes; 1 min on 2 min off x10 at 7a+
Core, hamstrings.
T: Work xmas meal, distinct lack of gluttony on my part
F: Rings and pull ups.
Fingerboard; 2rm pullups at +50kg 3 sets, 7/3 repeaters on AA slot at +12kg, 4 sets
S: Indoor routes; polarised continuity at 7a+/6a
S: Rings and pull ups.
Fingerboard; 2rm pullups at +50kg 3 sets, 7/3 repeaters on AA slot at +12kg, 4 sets
Once again I'm really pleased to have got through the week without any form of injury, either old or new, my elbows have been absolutely solid throughout.
The plan eases off now for Christmas, I'm glad these intense two weeks are over but I'm not half as broken as I worried I might be.
Due to working away from home and lack of equipment in certain places, I'm forced to do fingerboard on Friday and then again on Sunday, something I'd rather put more time between, as indicated last week when I had to drop some weight off the repeaters on the Sunday. This week however, I went 5kg heavier on the pull ups, and 2kg heavier on the repeaters on Friday, then repeated the same weight on the Sunday! Can't deny the progress there.
Not much else happening, I'm hoping to get outside over the Christmas period if the weather plays ball, I have 12 days off in total which gives us a decent window.
Aside from that, it's on with the training!
Last weeks STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session - TICK!
Tick the new 7c at Warwick Uni - Fail, partner has a 'busy job' whatever that is.
Ask Mac to recommend some 8a+ in Margalef -
New STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session -
Repeat purple V8 -
Tick the new 7c at Warwick Uni -
Get outside this week -
MTG: (this year)
Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Going very well
Get outside if weather allows - 1
Tick another 7c/7c+ outside -
LTG: (next Year)
8a+
Pull on to Photo Shot (8b)
Re-test on the Lattice board, booked in for Feb, hoping for 100 moves max
1
In reply to Dandan:
Is that a double pull-up at BW + 50kg on the BM2K-AA slots? (Big guns!)
Or just the repeaters?
> Fingerboard; 2rm pullups at +50kg 3 sets, 7/3 repeaters on AA slot at +12kg, 4 sets
Is that a double pull-up at BW + 50kg on the BM2K-AA slots? (Big guns!)
Or just the repeaters?
In reply to Ally Smith:
Funny you should mention that, the pull-ups are supposed to be on the AA slots but I was mistakenly doing them on the same slot but without the battery, so about 40mm, not such big guns! I only realised today after re-reading the session sheets. It makes a huge difference too, I think I can't do nearly that weight on the AA slot.
Funny you should mention that, the pull-ups are supposed to be on the AA slots but I was mistakenly doing them on the same slot but without the battery, so about 40mm, not such big guns! I only realised today after re-reading the session sheets. It makes a huge difference too, I think I can't do nearly that weight on the AA slot.
1
In reply to Dandan:
My pb was +50kg on the -AA edges for a total of 125kg.
The big difference between our relative finger strength must come down to bodyweight? (For the 5s test edge)
My pb was +50kg on the -AA edges for a total of 125kg.
The big difference between our relative finger strength must come down to bodyweight? (For the 5s test edge)
In reply to Ally Smith:
For sure, because I'm a scrawny bag of bones! My +3kg test result was at 65kg so I'm only pulling 68kg total, that's -7kg for you at 75kg if you are going for absolute pulling power, you've bettered that I think?
But if I'm reading things right, Tom seems to say weight is largely irrelevant (up to a limit I guess) and that your + or - bodyweight score is the magic number, which better fits the prediction curve. Basically this means I've got an unfair skinny-boy advantage.
I want to hit +65 (so 2x bodyweight) on the 40mm edge, +50 on the AA edge would be a good aim too, I'm a way off.
For sure, because I'm a scrawny bag of bones! My +3kg test result was at 65kg so I'm only pulling 68kg total, that's -7kg for you at 75kg if you are going for absolute pulling power, you've bettered that I think?
But if I'm reading things right, Tom seems to say weight is largely irrelevant (up to a limit I guess) and that your + or - bodyweight score is the magic number, which better fits the prediction curve. Basically this means I've got an unfair skinny-boy advantage.
I want to hit +65 (so 2x bodyweight) on the 40mm edge, +50 on the AA edge would be a good aim too, I'm a way off.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. I'm still here - just!
I was hoping for two sessions this week but a bit of a crisis at work put paid to that idea sadly.
So I got one routes session in. After not being on a rope since end of August I wasn't expecting much. Went OK all considered. 6a, 6a, 6b, 6b+, 6c+ and 7a. Lots of falling practice on the first couple of routes and then I felt OK headwise. Everything went on-sight apart from the 7a. I fluffed my feet up at the end and couldn't get back round to where I needed to be. Even without that I don't think i'd have got it as I was struggling by then. Not bad for me though.
No idea what i'm going to get in over Xmas. I feel i'm getting lardy and weak. Will try and limit damage food/booze wise over this next week and see where i'm up to.
Have a good Xmas everyone and I hope the weather plays ball for those hoping to get out.
Thanks Guy. I'm still here - just!
I was hoping for two sessions this week but a bit of a crisis at work put paid to that idea sadly.
So I got one routes session in. After not being on a rope since end of August I wasn't expecting much. Went OK all considered. 6a, 6a, 6b, 6b+, 6c+ and 7a. Lots of falling practice on the first couple of routes and then I felt OK headwise. Everything went on-sight apart from the 7a. I fluffed my feet up at the end and couldn't get back round to where I needed to be. Even without that I don't think i'd have got it as I was struggling by then. Not bad for me though.
No idea what i'm going to get in over Xmas. I feel i'm getting lardy and weak. Will try and limit damage food/booze wise over this next week and see where i'm up to.
Have a good Xmas everyone and I hope the weather plays ball for those hoping to get out.
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers guy.
2 fingerboard session this week. Progress on the first, back3 to 83.4kg, then matched that on the second. Discovered my counting is slow though so my count to 10 is probably nearer 15s. Should rebenchmark some point. At least its the good side!
Went to the wall Saturday too, feeling a bit achey but a decent volume session and a few projects which might go when fresher.
Lots of visitors over Christmas but I'll be doing what I can. Hope to get to 85kg on back 3 and then maybe rebenchmark to genuine 10 secs. Should start on some other grips too and on the shoulder work too.
Cheers guy.
2 fingerboard session this week. Progress on the first, back3 to 83.4kg, then matched that on the second. Discovered my counting is slow though so my count to 10 is probably nearer 15s. Should rebenchmark some point. At least its the good side!
Went to the wall Saturday too, feeling a bit achey but a decent volume session and a few projects which might go when fresher.
Lots of visitors over Christmas but I'll be doing what I can. Hope to get to 85kg on back 3 and then maybe rebenchmark to genuine 10 secs. Should start on some other grips too and on the shoulder work too.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Not really. The PE workouts have been really difficult to do - the gym's too crowded and it's difficult to find an appropriate circuit. I think the traditional 4x4 might be a bit easier.
having said that, I'm coming over to the idea of just working hard problems rather than focusing on physical training. The problems in my PE sessions have to be so easy for me to complete a circuit that I'm not sure I'm getting that much out of them.
Been quite tired this week, so only two workouts.
Tue
Core warmup.
Pullup variation. 4x3 ring pullups with single arm extension to the side (Dave Mac showed me these).
Box Step. 4x4@10kg dumbells. 1x3@12.5kg dumbells. (each leg)
Military press. 2x6@20kg, 1x4@25kg, 1x3@30kg
Overhead squat. 1x6@35kg, 3x4@40kg
Boulder pyramid, up to blue (f6b)
Sun
Boulder ladder, up to blue (f6b)
STG
1-2 more sessions this week. Then flying to El Chorro on Thu eve. There until next Tue.
> planetmarshall: Sounds like a good week of training. Have you been seeking measurable progress between mesocycle weeks 1 and 3?
Not really. The PE workouts have been really difficult to do - the gym's too crowded and it's difficult to find an appropriate circuit. I think the traditional 4x4 might be a bit easier.
having said that, I'm coming over to the idea of just working hard problems rather than focusing on physical training. The problems in my PE sessions have to be so easy for me to complete a circuit that I'm not sure I'm getting that much out of them.
Been quite tired this week, so only two workouts.
Tue
Core warmup.
Pullup variation. 4x3 ring pullups with single arm extension to the side (Dave Mac showed me these).
Box Step. 4x4@10kg dumbells. 1x3@12.5kg dumbells. (each leg)
Military press. 2x6@20kg, 1x4@25kg, 1x3@30kg
Overhead squat. 1x6@35kg, 3x4@40kg
Boulder pyramid, up to blue (f6b)
Sun
Boulder ladder, up to blue (f6b)
STG
1-2 more sessions this week. Then flying to El Chorro on Thu eve. There until next Tue.
1
In reply to planetmarshall:
Hope that you have a good time in Chorro. It sounds like our trips won't overlap, otherwise it would have been nice to have said hello. We're heading out on the 28th.
Tony
Hope that you have a good time in Chorro. It sounds like our trips won't overlap, otherwise it would have been nice to have said hello. We're heading out on the 28th.
Tony
1
In reply to Dan and Ally:
I realised that you guys were strong, but these values are really putting it into context. Inspiring stuff. I think next year when I start my boulder phase, I'm going to keep track of my weights more diligently.
> Fingerboard; 2rm pullups at +50kg 3 sets, 7/3 repeaters on AA slot at +12kg, 4 sets
I realised that you guys were strong, but these values are really putting it into context. Inspiring stuff. I think next year when I start my boulder phase, I'm going to keep track of my weights more diligently.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy
Last Weeks Goals
Weigh 79kg - Fail still 80kg
Run twice or mountain walk -Tick
Climb twice - 1 session of 4x4 - Tick
- 1 session climbing no harder than 6a and ensuring good footwork and climbing style - Tick
This weeks goals
Weigh 79kg
Run twice or mountain walk
Climb twice - 1 session of 4x4
- 1 session climbing no harder than 6a and ensuring good footwork and climbing style
Mid term goals (now till March next year)
Gain lots of winter experience walking and climbing, would like to have a go at the following routes
Number Three Gully Buttress (III)
Raeburn's Gully (I)
Fingers Ridge (IV 4)
Spiral Gully (II)
Fiacaill Ridge (I/II)
Aladdin's Mirror Direct (IV 4)Aladdin's Couloir (I)
Lots of hillwalking and wildcamping and gain enough experience to do my ML training next year (solid navigation, 10 hour plus Hill day)
A peak bouldering trip
Long term goal (Summer 2017)
Start season climbing HVS
Progress quickly to e grades and becoming solid at e1 by the end of the season
M - 4x4 on bouldering wall . 30 min run 3 miles
T - warmed up doing b1 boulders then spent time on the auto belay climbing the 6b+ routes which I think are both really soft for the grade as I found no issue with them
W - TFNA conditioning circuit. Core warm up then 2 sets through this
T - Hotel/Drunk
F - Hotel/Drunk - read rest days
S - 5 hour, 12 mile, 1000m height gain walk in the Brecon Beacons
S - Lead Whitt (VS 4c) and English Country Garden (HVS 5a). Seconded Red Rose Speedway (HVS 5a) and Green Grow the Grollies Oh! (VS 4c)
Happy Training
Lee
Thanks Guy
Last Weeks Goals
Weigh 79kg - Fail still 80kg
Run twice or mountain walk -Tick
Climb twice - 1 session of 4x4 - Tick
- 1 session climbing no harder than 6a and ensuring good footwork and climbing style - Tick
This weeks goals
Weigh 79kg
Run twice or mountain walk
Climb twice - 1 session of 4x4
- 1 session climbing no harder than 6a and ensuring good footwork and climbing style
Mid term goals (now till March next year)
Gain lots of winter experience walking and climbing, would like to have a go at the following routes
Number Three Gully Buttress (III)
Raeburn's Gully (I)
Fingers Ridge (IV 4)
Spiral Gully (II)
Fiacaill Ridge (I/II)
Aladdin's Mirror Direct (IV 4)Aladdin's Couloir (I)
Lots of hillwalking and wildcamping and gain enough experience to do my ML training next year (solid navigation, 10 hour plus Hill day)
A peak bouldering trip
Long term goal (Summer 2017)
Start season climbing HVS
Progress quickly to e grades and becoming solid at e1 by the end of the season
M - 4x4 on bouldering wall . 30 min run 3 miles
T - warmed up doing b1 boulders then spent time on the auto belay climbing the 6b+ routes which I think are both really soft for the grade as I found no issue with them
W - TFNA conditioning circuit. Core warm up then 2 sets through this
T - Hotel/Drunk
F - Hotel/Drunk - read rest days
S - 5 hour, 12 mile, 1000m height gain walk in the Brecon Beacons
S - Lead Whitt (VS 4c) and English Country Garden (HVS 5a). Seconded Red Rose Speedway (HVS 5a) and Green Grow the Grollies Oh! (VS 4c)
Happy Training
Lee
1
In reply to guy127917:
Hi, better week this week, looking back was more active than I thought;
Sunday, 5k run with the wife. time improving so all good.
Tuesday 7.1 km run. Defiantly a highlight as I decided to go out on my own whilst Eldest daughter was at swim training. Ticked a number of firsts. First night run, first solo run. Also a run in a place I have never looked round before and longest run to date including a sub 30 min 5km which was also a first
Wednesday 2 km swim, nice and easy 39 minute pootle
Thursday, works Christmas lunch. In a change from other years didn't drink so felt fresh the next day.
Friday, Drive to N Yorkshire from Leicester, Hell!! M1 closed so journey took 6 hours. Not good.
Saturday, 3km very hilly run 20.03, pleased with the time given the terrain.
Now to work out my goals for 2017. Need targets for running, cycling and swimming as well as finding time to climb and dive
Hi, better week this week, looking back was more active than I thought;
Sunday, 5k run with the wife. time improving so all good.
Tuesday 7.1 km run. Defiantly a highlight as I decided to go out on my own whilst Eldest daughter was at swim training. Ticked a number of firsts. First night run, first solo run. Also a run in a place I have never looked round before and longest run to date including a sub 30 min 5km which was also a first
Wednesday 2 km swim, nice and easy 39 minute pootle
Thursday, works Christmas lunch. In a change from other years didn't drink so felt fresh the next day.
Friday, Drive to N Yorkshire from Leicester, Hell!! M1 closed so journey took 6 hours. Not good.
Saturday, 3km very hilly run 20.03, pleased with the time given the terrain.
Now to work out my goals for 2017. Need targets for running, cycling and swimming as well as finding time to climb and dive
Post edited at 09:33
1
In reply to guy127917:
I aim for about 25k, running, sometimes I do more if I have a race, sometimes less. Plus, 30-40k on the bike.
Didn't manage anything last week, the virus is back with a vengeance. Should have taken the advice to ramp back up slowly. Currently feeling fat, weak, and thoroughly down in the dumps. Just feel like I've gone into hibernation. Can't face getting on the bike in the morning or putting my trainers on for a run. I've traditionally got myself injured for the winter and have blamed my lack of exercise on that, but the last two years now I've not had any injury and it's made no difference, think I must be suffering from SAD or something.
STG Cheer up and do some exercise.
> Hokkyo: What’s your normal weekly mileage?
I aim for about 25k, running, sometimes I do more if I have a race, sometimes less. Plus, 30-40k on the bike.
Didn't manage anything last week, the virus is back with a vengeance. Should have taken the advice to ramp back up slowly. Currently feeling fat, weak, and thoroughly down in the dumps. Just feel like I've gone into hibernation. Can't face getting on the bike in the morning or putting my trainers on for a run. I've traditionally got myself injured for the winter and have blamed my lack of exercise on that, but the last two years now I've not had any injury and it's made no difference, think I must be suffering from SAD or something.
STG Cheer up and do some exercise.
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy.
Mon: Rest.
Tues: Rest. Flu jab, emphasis on the jab - surprisingly sore arm!
Wedns: 8 mins on, 8 mins off x3. Arm still painful...
Thurs: Fingerboard.
Fri: Wall. Doubles on board. Ancap.
Sat: Pre-Christmas panic.
Sun: Wall. Bouldered a bit. Doubles on board. Ancap. Conditioning. Bit broken.
Thanks Guy.
Mon: Rest.
Tues: Rest. Flu jab, emphasis on the jab - surprisingly sore arm!
Wedns: 8 mins on, 8 mins off x3. Arm still painful...
Thurs: Fingerboard.
Fri: Wall. Doubles on board. Ancap.
Sat: Pre-Christmas panic.
Sun: Wall. Bouldered a bit. Doubles on board. Ancap. Conditioning. Bit broken.
1
In reply to Si dH:
Midweek update - I finally did Jerry's Traverse yesterday, v happy! Today I had a shoulder sports massage - ouch! It feels looser now though. Does anyone know if there is any evidence of sports massage making you either weaker or potentially more injury prone in the immediate period afterwards? Am just thinking about plans for tomorrow.
Ta
Midweek update - I finally did Jerry's Traverse yesterday, v happy! Today I had a shoulder sports massage - ouch! It feels looser now though. Does anyone know if there is any evidence of sports massage making you either weaker or potentially more injury prone in the immediate period afterwards? Am just thinking about plans for tomorrow.
Ta
4
In reply to Si dH:
Nice one!
I have no evidence, but I know that "loose" feeling, and have been told to give it 2-3 days in the past. YMMV.
Nice one!
I have no evidence, but I know that "loose" feeling, and have been told to give it 2-3 days in the past. YMMV.
1
In reply to guy127917:
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - 13st 8lbs (STS)
M - S - Rest / Illness
Not been very well recently. So didn't do any exercise at all. The 30 routes sounds impressive, but the wall I use is at a local leisure center. There's 7 main lines and they're about 9 meters high. They've all got auto belays on them, so it's easy to rattle up and down a large number of routes. Grades are pretty stiff there so I'm still doing 30 4/4+ routes. It's great for endurance I have to say. Also there's enough 'hard for me' routes there so I can try hard as well.
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - 13st 8lbs (STS)
M - S - Rest / Illness
Not been very well recently. So didn't do any exercise at all. The 30 routes sounds impressive, but the wall I use is at a local leisure center. There's 7 main lines and they're about 9 meters high. They've all got auto belays on them, so it's easy to rattle up and down a large number of routes. Grades are pretty stiff there so I'm still doing 30 4/4+ routes. It's great for endurance I have to say. Also there's enough 'hard for me' routes there so I can try hard as well.
Post edited at 10:55
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy (and merry christmas!)
M-S training plan achieved including 3x wall sessions, core, fingerboard, campus and some conditioning. Was nice to get along to the Reach at Woolwich on Saturday and have a blast on more exciting terrain than Oxford.
S - rest
Thanks Guy (and merry christmas!)
M-S training plan achieved including 3x wall sessions, core, fingerboard, campus and some conditioning. Was nice to get along to the Reach at Woolwich on Saturday and have a blast on more exciting terrain than Oxford.
S - rest
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