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if there was a Classic Rock book for European sport climbing what routes would be in it?
Roughly speaking, Any green or orange spot routes (up to 6a+) .
The best I can think of that I've done are ; Espolón Central (4c) and Albahida (Gubia Normal) (4c)
What routes would you include?
Roughly speaking, Any green or orange spot routes (up to 6a+) .
The best I can think of that I've done are ; Espolón Central (4c) and Albahida (Gubia Normal) (4c)
What routes would you include?
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In reply to stevieb:
Sounds like one of the most uninspiring books I could possibly imagine. 100 pages of prickly grey slabs. Nah.
Sounds like one of the most uninspiring books I could possibly imagine. 100 pages of prickly grey slabs. Nah.
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In reply to stevieb:
About the routes listed on Plaisir Selection...
http://www.filidor.ch/Pages/Book.aspx?Id=8
Espelon Central would certainly not be on it though... Cassin N-Ridge would.
About the routes listed on Plaisir Selection...
http://www.filidor.ch/Pages/Book.aspx?Id=8
Espelon Central would certainly not be on it though... Cassin N-Ridge would.
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In reply to stevieb:
There probably are, but I guess they would mostly have to be on granite. Easy euro limestone is pretty dire most of the time. Not that I have climbed it all of course.
Mosquitos at riglos is probably the easiest really good line i've done. But it is 6b I think and I seem to recall its a bit a pokey at that. I guess La demande would have to be in there at 6a+. Not done, but its an obvious classic. ULA as well I guess, but you don't need both for the book .
> Ha ha, I'm sure there are some inspiring lines out there.
There probably are, but I guess they would mostly have to be on granite. Easy euro limestone is pretty dire most of the time. Not that I have climbed it all of course.
Mosquitos at riglos is probably the easiest really good line i've done. But it is 6b I think and I seem to recall its a bit a pokey at that. I guess La demande would have to be in there at 6a+. Not done, but its an obvious classic. ULA as well I guess, but you don't need both for the book .
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In reply to HeMa:
Yeah the Cassin ridge and aiguille dibona would probably make the book, although definitely at the adventurous end of sport.
Yeah the Cassin ridge and aiguille dibona would probably make the book, although definitely at the adventurous end of sport.
In reply to snoop6060:
Yes, la demande sounds like a good one.
Re limestone, I've seen stunning looking lines in les calanques and Sardinia, but don't know them. And kalymnos is meant to be good at low grades
Yes, la demande sounds like a good one.
Re limestone, I've seen stunning looking lines in les calanques and Sardinia, but don't know them. And kalymnos is meant to be good at low grades
In reply to stevieb:
There's a ticklist for this - The Big Easys, which includes routes in France, Spain and Switzerland. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1633
There's a ticklist for this - The Big Easys, which includes routes in France, Spain and Switzerland. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1633
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In reply to stevieb:
Spasspartout (6a) (translated 'Fun For All') on Wendenstocke. A three star 6a with nine pitches of unmarked Verdon-quality rock amidst magnificent scenery on the best crag in Switzerland.
Perfect for your book, MuWahahahaaaaah!
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In reply to duncan:
Yes - a good E3
> In reply to stevieb:
> Spasspartout (6a) (translated 'Fun For All') on Wendenstocke. A three star 6a with nine pitches of unmarked Verdon-quality rock amidst magnificent scenery on the best crag in Switzerland.
> Perfect for your book, MuWahahahaaaaah!
Yes - a good E3
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In reply to stevieb:
Some of the most memorable routes I have done, and I would include trad, are on Kalymnos. There are routes with lines and features which makes for much more variety than just another grey slab which is often the case in much of the rest of Europe.
Al
Some of the most memorable routes I have done, and I would include trad, are on Kalymnos. There are routes with lines and features which makes for much more variety than just another grey slab which is often the case in much of the rest of Europe.
Al
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In reply to stevieb:
I think I can hear someone turning in their grave...
> Classic Rock book for European sport climbing
I think I can hear someone turning in their grave...
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In reply to stevieb:
Have I misunderstood? The N Ridge of the Badile (if that's what you mean by the Cassin N Ridge) is hardly sport climbing, is it? And as for THE Cassin Ridge...!
Have I misunderstood? The N Ridge of the Badile (if that's what you mean by the Cassin N Ridge) is hardly sport climbing, is it? And as for THE Cassin Ridge...!
Post edited at 14:01
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In reply to jon:
Yup, ment to write Badile... Not Cassin.
And generally speakin' the N-Ridge is "sport" in the same sense as many other routes (e.g. La Demande) are...
You might wish to have a few nuts & cams between the bolts. But to be hones, 'cause the length you don't really have time to fiddle around much (if you're pitching). So generally it's more often than not, climbed as "sport".
Yup, ment to write Badile... Not Cassin.
And generally speakin' the N-Ridge is "sport" in the same sense as many other routes (e.g. La Demande) are...
You might wish to have a few nuts & cams between the bolts. But to be hones, 'cause the length you don't really have time to fiddle around much (if you're pitching). So generally it's more often than not, climbed as "sport".
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In reply to stevieb:
If there was ever a Classic Rock style book for Europe, I wonder who would write/edit it? It would have to be someone who has extensively traveled around Europe, climbed a lot of easy stuff and taken some great photos. It sounds like a perfect job for a certain someone in the RockFax team. I would buy a book like this if it was part of a trilogy. Although I'm sure Hard Sport would be a much greater inspiration.
The best easy route that I've ever done is Via Lara (n3+) in Norway, can someone go and bolt it so it could qualify.
PS. Do I need to add a smiley to let people know that I am absolutely not serious about the last part?
If there was ever a Classic Rock style book for Europe, I wonder who would write/edit it? It would have to be someone who has extensively traveled around Europe, climbed a lot of easy stuff and taken some great photos. It sounds like a perfect job for a certain someone in the RockFax team. I would buy a book like this if it was part of a trilogy. Although I'm sure Hard Sport would be a much greater inspiration.
The best easy route that I've ever done is Via Lara (n3+) in Norway, can someone go and bolt it so it could qualify.
PS. Do I need to add a smiley to let people know that I am absolutely not serious about the last part?
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In reply to stevieb:
I talked to a good French climber who'd done La Demande recently and he said it is polished to hell and strongly recommended not going near it.
I talked to a good French climber who'd done La Demande recently and he said it is polished to hell and strongly recommended not going near it.
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In reply to stevieb:
Some I've done and enjoyed:
La ley del deseo (6a) fully bolted, round the corner from Albahida and IMO a far superior climb.
Hittuliecht (5c) & Heimweh (5c) superb rock, both excellent routes.
Alpendurst (4c) long and easy (but consistently interesting) straight to a pointy Alpine summit
Marión (5a) Only 3 pitches, and a little polished at the start, but excellent moves and has the exposure of a big route.
Some I've done and enjoyed:
La ley del deseo (6a) fully bolted, round the corner from Albahida and IMO a far superior climb.
Hittuliecht (5c) & Heimweh (5c) superb rock, both excellent routes.
Alpendurst (4c) long and easy (but consistently interesting) straight to a pointy Alpine summit
Marión (5a) Only 3 pitches, and a little polished at the start, but excellent moves and has the exposure of a big route.
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In reply to duncan:
An excellent choice. Miles easier, but Motorhead (6a+) is the only other non-Wendenstock route I've done in Switzerland that would compare.
> Spasspartout (6a) (translated 'Fun For All') on Wendenstocke. A three star 6a with nine pitches of unmarked Verdon-quality rock amidst magnificent scenery on the best crag in Switzerland.
> Perfect for your book, MuWahahahaaaaah!
An excellent choice. Miles easier, but Motorhead (6a+) is the only other non-Wendenstock route I've done in Switzerland that would compare.
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In reply to stevieb:
Epolon Central was a trad route (with belay stations last time I looked) but it would get my vote.
Albahida 4+ Sa Gubia Mallorca & La ley del deseo 5+
Sjeverno rebro 4b+ Veliki Cuk, Paklenica
Epolon Central was a trad route (with belay stations last time I looked) but it would get my vote.
Albahida 4+ Sa Gubia Mallorca & La ley del deseo 5+
Sjeverno rebro 4b+ Veliki Cuk, Paklenica
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In reply to Simon Caldwell:
Yes, I don't think this was the next book in the series.
No one has dared list a British climb yet to really set the cat amongst the pidgeons.
Maybe a slate route just for variety?
Yes, I don't think this was the next book in the series.
No one has dared list a British climb yet to really set the cat amongst the pidgeons.
Maybe a slate route just for variety?
In reply to jon:
I was aware the thread has morphed a bit, but I was happy to go with other lower grade recommendations. Thanks for correcting, I think we all meant the north ridge.
Maybe time to add a disclaimer. Remember rock climbing is a hazardous ..,,
I was aware the thread has morphed a bit, but I was happy to go with other lower grade recommendations. Thanks for correcting, I think we all meant the north ridge.
Maybe time to add a disclaimer. Remember rock climbing is a hazardous ..,,
In reply to jcw:
Is that in keeping with a few of the hard rock routes?
> I talked to a good French climber who'd done La Demande recently and he said it is polished to hell and strongly recommended not going near it.
Is that in keeping with a few of the hard rock routes?
In reply to Duncan Bourne:
It's a long time since I climbed it, so I'm sure you're right
And thanks for the paklenica route, I thought that was a likely place
> Epolon Central was a trad route (with belay stations last time I looked) but it would get my vote.
It's a long time since I climbed it, so I'm sure you're right
And thanks for the paklenica route, I thought that was a likely place
In reply to jcw:
To be fair John, most people find Pichnebule a horror show...!
> Yes, he found Pichnebule a horror show also.
To be fair John, most people find Pichnebule a horror show...!
In reply to HeMa:
Just a minute, that's not quite right. If I climb, say, the Walker Spur and only clip insitu pegs an such, you're saying I've done a sport climb?
> And generally speakin' the N-Ridge is "sport" in the same sense as many other routes (e.g. La Demande) are...
> You might wish to have a few nuts & cams between the bolts. But to be hones, 'cause the length you don't really have time to fiddle around much (if you're pitching). So generally it's more often than not, climbed as "sport".
Just a minute, that's not quite right. If I climb, say, the Walker Spur and only clip insitu pegs an such, you're saying I've done a sport climb?
In reply to HeMa:
So, to be clear, your definition is: if there's a bolt on a route, it's a sport route?
So, to be clear, your definition is: if there's a bolt on a route, it's a sport route?
In reply to jon:
Predominantly the protection used is bolts.
Call it alpine sport, a'la Wendenstock or Rätikön if you like.
To be fair, I'd call N-Ridge Plaisir... which it is.
Predominantly the protection used is bolts.
Call it alpine sport, a'la Wendenstock or Rätikön if you like.
To be fair, I'd call N-Ridge Plaisir... which it is.
In reply to stevieb:
Easier sport routes that have stuck in my mind as really good (for a climb at any grade):
Beautiful Helen (6a+) 6a+, Iliada (Kalymnos)
Styx (6a+) - 6a+, Poets (Kalymnos)
Monahiki Elia (6a+) - 6a+, Panorama/Grande Grotta (Kalymnos)
Monsoon Malabar (6a)- 6a, Blacknor Central (Portland)
Shit Happens, Actually (6a) - 6a, Blacknor Central (Portland)
Xavier's Wall (6a) - 6a, Coastguard South (Portland) - slightly rubbish bottom section, but rest of climb and location make up for it
If you can stretch to 6b, Duke (6b) at Es Fumat (Mallorca) is pretty epic in an amazing location and felt adventurous for a single pitch sport route. And Kit Kat (6b) at Blacknor Central is incredible after a chossy start with a high first bolt.
Easier sport routes that have stuck in my mind as really good (for a climb at any grade):
Beautiful Helen (6a+) 6a+, Iliada (Kalymnos)
Styx (6a+) - 6a+, Poets (Kalymnos)
Monahiki Elia (6a+) - 6a+, Panorama/Grande Grotta (Kalymnos)
Monsoon Malabar (6a)- 6a, Blacknor Central (Portland)
Shit Happens, Actually (6a) - 6a, Blacknor Central (Portland)
Xavier's Wall (6a) - 6a, Coastguard South (Portland) - slightly rubbish bottom section, but rest of climb and location make up for it
If you can stretch to 6b, Duke (6b) at Es Fumat (Mallorca) is pretty epic in an amazing location and felt adventurous for a single pitch sport route. And Kit Kat (6b) at Blacknor Central is incredible after a chossy start with a high first bolt.
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In reply to stevieb:
I'd like to think a couple of the classic routes in the Calanques might make it on to the list, though as I haven't climbed any of them due to messing my ankle up on day one of a trip there, I couldn't confidently vouch for anything from experience.
Also Visite Obligatoire on the Aiguille Dibona, and perhaps one of the routes up the Miroir d'Argentine? Both highly inspiring pieces of rock.
I'd like to think a couple of the classic routes in the Calanques might make it on to the list, though as I haven't climbed any of them due to messing my ankle up on day one of a trip there, I couldn't confidently vouch for anything from experience.
Also Visite Obligatoire on the Aiguille Dibona, and perhaps one of the routes up the Miroir d'Argentine? Both highly inspiring pieces of rock.
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In reply to stevieb: wide is love (verdon) is quite good. Motorhead is hardly a sport route. Most of the really good lines i can think of at say, Buoux, are harder than the 6a+ cutoff.
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In reply to stevieb:
There is a rather nice looking coffee table book to multi pitch in Europe which has just been published called Multi Pitch Rock Climbing in Europe (in case the link doesn't work) But I think it might focus on stuff harder than 6a+
http://www.climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/Multi-Pitch-Rock-Climbing-in-E...
There is some lovely multi pitch at those grades in Sardinia and Corsica
Marinaio di Foresta (6a+)
No match for climb id:288837
Le Grand Mammuth (6a+)
Bella Ciao (6b)
Single pitch sports routes at those grades tend to be a lot less memorable but there were a couple I did on mainland Greece this year which I thought were excellent:
Kolokotronis (6a+)
Christmas day at the workhouse (6a)
If you include (semi bolted) alpine rock as well, then I'm sure there would be a lot more...
There is a rather nice looking coffee table book to multi pitch in Europe which has just been published called Multi Pitch Rock Climbing in Europe (in case the link doesn't work) But I think it might focus on stuff harder than 6a+
http://www.climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/Multi-Pitch-Rock-Climbing-in-E...
There is some lovely multi pitch at those grades in Sardinia and Corsica
Marinaio di Foresta (6a+)
No match for climb id:288837
Le Grand Mammuth (6a+)
Bella Ciao (6b)
Single pitch sports routes at those grades tend to be a lot less memorable but there were a couple I did on mainland Greece this year which I thought were excellent:
Kolokotronis (6a+)
Christmas day at the workhouse (6a)
If you include (semi bolted) alpine rock as well, then I'm sure there would be a lot more...
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In reply to GridNorth:
I've done some really memorable routes on Kalymnos in the low 6's. I don't have the names but the 6a+ tufa line at the right end of the Grande Grotte and a couple of routes at Simpleglades stood out for me. But I'm afraid my experience of Kalymnos in the 4's and 5's really is mostly "just another grey slab". Quite enjoyable at the time, and in stunning scenery, but hardly memorable in themselves. So I guess it depends what you classify as "easy".
Martin
> Some of the most memorable routes I have done, and I would include trad, are on Kalymnos. There are routes with lines and features which makes for much more variety than just another grey slab which is often the case in much of the rest of Europe.
> Al
I've done some really memorable routes on Kalymnos in the low 6's. I don't have the names but the 6a+ tufa line at the right end of the Grande Grotte and a couple of routes at Simpleglades stood out for me. But I'm afraid my experience of Kalymnos in the 4's and 5's really is mostly "just another grey slab". Quite enjoyable at the time, and in stunning scenery, but hardly memorable in themselves. So I guess it depends what you classify as "easy".
Martin
In reply to stevieb:
Lots of very good easy stuff at Auzat and Calamès in the Ariege. If I had to pick one it would be La Sabine (5c): immaculate rock, good line, sustained, technical and only just enough holds for it to go at the grade.
Lots of very good easy stuff at Auzat and Calamès in the Ariege. If I had to pick one it would be La Sabine (5c): immaculate rock, good line, sustained, technical and only just enough holds for it to go at the grade.
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In reply to stevieb:
I'd have Espolon Central in there. Espolon Limaban at Sierra de Toix is a charismatic two pitch 5+.
Agree with Duncan Bourne that Sjeverno Rebro in Paklenica is good at 4b+ and Nosorog 4c+ gives 7 pitches of which 4 are very good.
On Kalymnos, Wings for Life, 5, on Telendos, The White Rose 6a at Irox, Pornokini 6a at Arginonta are single pitch routes I enjoyed and remember. I enjoyed Capa san Vito routes in Sicily and Crni Kal in Slovenia, but at the moment nothing classic comes to mind.
In En Vau in the Calanques, La Saphir's 5 pitches of 5 was good, and I was glad of a steady leader on the crux.
Le Grand Parcours on Mte Ste Victoire, 17 pitches of 5+ is still on my bucket list.
South Ridge of the Hexenstein at the Falzarego Pass in the Dolomites is varied and 'classic' with 7? pitches of IV+, and the South Face of the Cima Grande at a similar grade, but I suppose that they might not qualify as sport for some of your respondents.
Its hard to think of a list of mainly single pitch classic European routes, because there's simply so much rock to choose from, unlike in the original Classic Rock where we have UK crags to draw on.
I have however, turned many nondescript routes into struggles of Classic proportions more or less everywhere I go, so my list is going to be longer than most.
Dave
I'd have Espolon Central in there. Espolon Limaban at Sierra de Toix is a charismatic two pitch 5+.
Agree with Duncan Bourne that Sjeverno Rebro in Paklenica is good at 4b+ and Nosorog 4c+ gives 7 pitches of which 4 are very good.
On Kalymnos, Wings for Life, 5, on Telendos, The White Rose 6a at Irox, Pornokini 6a at Arginonta are single pitch routes I enjoyed and remember. I enjoyed Capa san Vito routes in Sicily and Crni Kal in Slovenia, but at the moment nothing classic comes to mind.
In En Vau in the Calanques, La Saphir's 5 pitches of 5 was good, and I was glad of a steady leader on the crux.
Le Grand Parcours on Mte Ste Victoire, 17 pitches of 5+ is still on my bucket list.
South Ridge of the Hexenstein at the Falzarego Pass in the Dolomites is varied and 'classic' with 7? pitches of IV+, and the South Face of the Cima Grande at a similar grade, but I suppose that they might not qualify as sport for some of your respondents.
Its hard to think of a list of mainly single pitch classic European routes, because there's simply so much rock to choose from, unlike in the original Classic Rock where we have UK crags to draw on.
I have however, turned many nondescript routes into struggles of Classic proportions more or less everywhere I go, so my list is going to be longer than most.
Dave
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In reply to Martin Hore:
I agree with you there and would add that I find that generally true of most climbs in the 4 and 5's which is a little sad because I feel sure that many of them would provide trad climbs with some character. The routes I am referring to are in the 6's but perhaps that's because that's in my "zone" I thought that by todays standards that's classed as easy.
Al
I agree with you there and would add that I find that generally true of most climbs in the 4 and 5's which is a little sad because I feel sure that many of them would provide trad climbs with some character. The routes I am referring to are in the 6's but perhaps that's because that's in my "zone" I thought that by todays standards that's classed as easy.
Al
In reply to Elsier:
Good lord, someone else has climbed this! Kind of seasonal as well since it was bolted on Christmas Day.
Described by Aris Theoderopoulos as the "best 6a in Greece" back then. Even better climbed in the dark when the top of the cave is illuminated. Mission Impossible is even better but considerably harder!
Good lord, someone else has climbed this! Kind of seasonal as well since it was bolted on Christmas Day.
Described by Aris Theoderopoulos as the "best 6a in Greece" back then. Even better climbed in the dark when the top of the cave is illuminated. Mission Impossible is even better but considerably harder!
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In reply to GridNorth:
Im thinking pornokini at arginonta for one, I think you get an extra half a grade if wearing a pornokini!
Im thinking pornokini at arginonta for one, I think you get an extra half a grade if wearing a pornokini!
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In reply to jimtitt:
Well it's certainly up there for one of the best 6a single pitches I have ever done!
We ran out of time for the harder routes, but sounds like I will have to go back for Mission Impossible and possibly in the dark!
We had the opposite problem when we climbed there in October, nice and shady in the cave, but as we emerged into the sunshine at the top the heat was quite unpleasant.
Well it's certainly up there for one of the best 6a single pitches I have ever done!
We ran out of time for the harder routes, but sounds like I will have to go back for Mission Impossible and possibly in the dark!
We had the opposite problem when we climbed there in October, nice and shady in the cave, but as we emerged into the sunshine at the top the heat was quite unpleasant.
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In reply to stevieb:
Not mentioned yet and high on my wishlist is Parle (6a+), looks awesome (and recently rebolted).
Sector Le Papy at Calames (Ariege) has loads of fantastic long single pitch routes in the 5a - 6a range, I particularly rated Les Instantfataux (5c) & Coralie (5c)
Not mentioned yet and high on my wishlist is Parle (6a+), looks awesome (and recently rebolted).
Sector Le Papy at Calames (Ariege) has loads of fantastic long single pitch routes in the 5a - 6a range, I particularly rated Les Instantfataux (5c) & Coralie (5c)
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In reply to full stottie:
Good selection there, thanks. Lebgrand parcours looks like a bit of a beast.
Good selection there, thanks. Lebgrand parcours looks like a bit of a beast.
In reply to stevieb:
in Eldorado/Grimsel i'd add Septumania;
2*Niedermann (Bielenhorn 6a, Graue Wand 5c)
South pillar on Gandschijen.
Velebit ....
Velebitaski, Mosoraski, Domzalski, Karabore, Water song ... and many more.
all routes with a line to them.
don't get me into Austrian classics ... hundreds of them, and several competing with routes discussed above ...
in Eldorado/Grimsel i'd add Septumania;
2*Niedermann (Bielenhorn 6a, Graue Wand 5c)
South pillar on Gandschijen.
Velebit ....
Velebitaski, Mosoraski, Domzalski, Karabore, Water song ... and many more.
all routes with a line to them.
don't get me into Austrian classics ... hundreds of them, and several competing with routes discussed above ...
In reply to stevieb:
oh, here are some 'prickly sad euro slabs' from Austria. A classic selection ... hit "Bilder" for pics with the line, no prizes for guessing what topo leads to ...
http://www.bergsteigen.com/klettern/steiermark/dachsteingebirge/dachstein-s...
http://www.bergsteigen.com/klettern/steiermark/ennstaler-alpen/rosskuppenka...
http://www.bergsteigen.com/klettern/vorarlberg/lechquellen-gebirge/roggalsp...
http://www.bergsteigen.com/klettern/salzburg/dachsteingebirge/hochkesselkop...
http://www.bergsteigen.com/klettern/oberoesterreich/dachsteingebirge/daeuml...
oh, here are some 'prickly sad euro slabs' from Austria. A classic selection ... hit "Bilder" for pics with the line, no prizes for guessing what topo leads to ...
http://www.bergsteigen.com/klettern/steiermark/dachsteingebirge/dachstein-s...
http://www.bergsteigen.com/klettern/steiermark/ennstaler-alpen/rosskuppenka...
http://www.bergsteigen.com/klettern/vorarlberg/lechquellen-gebirge/roggalsp...
http://www.bergsteigen.com/klettern/salzburg/dachsteingebirge/hochkesselkop...
http://www.bergsteigen.com/klettern/oberoesterreich/dachsteingebirge/daeuml...
In reply to stevieb:
There are some nice climbs on the Point Percee overlooking Sallanches en route to Chamonix from Geneva. Eg
Arete du Doigt (5c)
Amazing situation and fully bolted as I recall...
There are some nice climbs on the Point Percee overlooking Sallanches en route to Chamonix from Geneva. Eg
Arete du Doigt (5c)
Amazing situation and fully bolted as I recall...
In reply to bigbobbyking:
Yes I've had my eye on this route. I've got a friend with a place in st gervais, and thought this could be a target. It helps to hear good reports.
Yes I've had my eye on this route. I've got a friend with a place in st gervais, and thought this could be a target. It helps to hear good reports.
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