UKC

'La Mafia' on the Baou, St Jeannet_translation please

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 Fraser 20 Dec 2016

I'm hoping to have a crack at this just after New Year and was reading the description on camptocamp.

In this, it mentions for pitch 3: "Monter droit (vieux ficelou caché)" and I'm wondering what 'ficelou' translates as. I know ficelle means string but 'ficelou' is leaving a blank. 'Thread' perhaps?

Also, if anyone has any tips for this particular route I'd be grateful to hear them. The line looks like it should be clear enough to follow, which should be a pleasant experience compared to other sorties on the Baou! State of belays etc would be good to know too.

Cheers for all input & suggestions available.
Post edited at 13:51
 jon 20 Dec 2016
In reply to Fraser:

You're right, a bit of tat. Maybe a thread or attached to something else. 'Straight up (hidden bit of old tat)...'

I've never done the route so no tips I'm afraid.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 20 Dec 2016
In reply to Fraser:

I did it with Parkey back in the mid-1980s using Pete Livesey's little French guidebook, I don't have much of a memory of the climbing except we did it all free (the book suggested this was tough) and we thought it was the best route we had ever done,

Chris
OP Fraser 20 Dec 2016
In reply to Chris Craggs & jon:

Cheers both, I should have realised 'tat' was the term! Looking forward to getting on this, it sounds decent based on the various write ups I've come across.

 jon 20 Dec 2016
In reply to Chris Craggs:

> Pete Livesey's little French guidebook

Got it front of me now. Yes, it was the bible on those early visits. He used a strange combination of Brit technical grade and YDS. La Mafia got 6a (5.11). I think it gets 7a now. We did La Directissime/Peril Jaune which he gave 4c (5.8). Every day was an adventure!

 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 20 Dec 2016
In reply to jon:

> Got it front of me now. Yes, it was the bible on those early visits. He used a strange combination of Brit technical grade and YDS. La Mafia got 6a (5.11). I think it gets 7a now.

I believe we gave it E4 6a, how very traditional

Chris
OP Fraser 20 Dec 2016
In reply to jon:

Think I did that on a previous outing. In the hand drawn topo on c2c, there are annotations giving things like 'VIb+' at certain points on a given pitch. I assume that's the difficulty of that particular sequence or does it mean something more cryptic? Little X's denote the bolts I think.
 jon 20 Dec 2016
In reply to Fraser:

> In the hand drawn topo on c2c, there are annotations giving things like 'VIb+' at certain points on a given pitch. I assume that's the difficulty of that particular sequence or does it mean something more cryptic?

Yes. Must be quite an old topo, or at least drawn by an old skool climber - that sort of thing, and the Roman numerals - seem like a blast from the past. Sadly, since C2C has changed its appearance I haven't been able to decipher it and so have just abandoned it. A great shame.
 Greasy Prusiks 20 Dec 2016
In reply to Fraser:

There was a moment when I thought you wanted "La Mafia" translated...
OP Fraser 21 Dec 2016
In reply to jon:

> Yes. Must be quite an old topo, or at least drawn by an old skool climber - that sort of thing, and the Roman numerals - seem like a blast from the past.

The topo (from 1991 apparently) is seen in the 3rd image on this link and it certainly does look "old skool"!
https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/122798/fr/baou-de-saint-jeannet-la-mafia

I'm not a great fan of the new site appearance; clumsy as the old one was, it seemed more usable. I managed to find 'Mafia' in my French English dictionary, but not 'ficelou'


 TobyA 21 Dec 2016
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

Yep, that was what I thought from just reading the title too!

So Fraser, I think it means "the Mafia". HTH.
OP Fraser 21 Dec 2016
In reply to TobyA:
Much appreciated! I edited the original title to add 'translation', in case it grabbed a few more voters, clearly not realising how it subsequently read!

Edit: viewers not voters.
Post edited at 11:52

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...