UKC

What do you guys think about these? My use would be for vertical ice climbing (toprope, but that probably doesn't matter) and also for couloirs and general alpinism. I have a BD Raven for glaciers.

But I'd like something that can both be used for mixed and technical ice, and on snow, which can self-arrest pretty well.

Thoughts?

In reply to TheFasting:
For that sort of money I personally would get Quarks.
What backpack are you using or thinking of? Looks like an arcteryx FL axe head catch would just pull through the cassin it is that big.

In reply to TheFasting:
I have a pair of X-Dry which are pretty much the same as these.
They are light and flicky and I've loved using them on ice.
Really nice swing.

Bruce

In reply to TheFasting:

My mate has a pair that he has used seemingly very effectively up to about trad M7 and thin, sustained vertical ice. He thinks they are great, and they also got very well reviewed in some North American magazines and websites.

If you've got the skillz... etc.

In reply to zimpara:


Why? Maybe the chap wants a more technical tool that Quarks.

In reply to TobyA:

I want something to grow into as I start doing technical ice and alpine climbs. The X-All is a bit of a hybrid that seems like it can plunge, self-arrest and climb well, looks perfect. Pretty alright price too.

My ice climbing instructor suggested the Petzl Ergo but that seems to be very specific for only ice and mixed

In reply to TheFasting:

I think they would be fine for that. My comment to Zimpara was just because he seems to make a habit of talking about things he doesn't seem to know anything about!

In reply to TheFasting:
This looks like a great tool. However, like all other technical tools, it will not self-arrest well. As seen here - http://www.thealpinestart.com/2013/02/first-look-cassin-x-all-mountain/ - it has a similar pick-to-handle angle as the Nomic or Fusion 2. And in fact its self arrest performance is likely to be even worse than that of those tools given how far out the shaft bulges, i.e. away from the angle of traction. Unfortunately the further away you move from a moderately angled pick on a straight shafted axe, the worse that self arrest performance becomes. So either don't fall or, if you do, you'd better get that axe in straight away.

In reply to Tricadam:

So if self-arrest is a priority, the Quarks (for instance) will be better in that regard (though still not great!) with the Vipers not far behind. In terms of how they climb, Quarks do ice very nicely, especially with the added pick weights. Scottish tech 6 fine too. Though both do feel easier with more aggressive tools.

Quarks and Vipers are both popular, so you'd be able to snap up a second hand bargain if you wait around for a bit. Merry Christmas!