UKC

when I started building my rack a while ago I purchased some rockcentrics, for some reason I bought an eight and a nine thinking this was standard (I wish I asked for help at the time) , I have never used these and can't imagine ever needing too just wondering if there is anyone who has actually placed a 9? ,the things massive!

In reply to leewil86:

I don't know about WC hexes but I use my biggest DMM hex all the time on Cornish granite even on some relatively hard routes.

What rock have you tried it on?

In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

To be honest only quartzite at the moment around Holyhead I've done a couple of routes in llanberis on the union crag but didn't bother taking hexes , I could imagine granite or even grit accomadating this piece of gear actually a bit better than where I climb at the moment , when I head back up to the peak I might bring them along

In reply to leewil86:

I've used it a number of times on wide grit cracks - but I only bother to rack it when I've inspected the route and found it wide (in fact I don't normally bring it unless going to the grit). I even have a bigger hex (some silver Camp one) that I also love to use! But again, only for routes with wide cracks where I know I'll be wanting some big gear.

In reply to leewil86:

I use mine every now and again in pembrokeshire, but only put it on my harness if i know, or can see from the gound that there is a very good chance of using it.

Lots of the steep cracks at st govan's will take it

Routes I remember using on there include, Army dreamers, Chieftan, The loosener, Richochet, Flanker, hangover 77, and Derranged. There might be some others.

Not at all essential on any of those routes but very reassuring to chuck it deep in a chunky crack before setting off on a hard section of climbing.

In reply to leewil86:

I have a massive Chuinard 13+ hex from the very early 70's, it fits a 4.25 inch crack. There are some routes where it is a perfect fit. I only take it on a route if I have a good idea it will fit, same as I only take my largest cams on routes that might need them. A good example of where the big hex fits is in the bottom of the wide bit of Embankment 2 on Millstone. Many seconds have found it useful as something to stand on to start up the narrower section. (I am the poor sod who has to solo up and get it back again!)

In reply to leewil86: Well, I was damn glad of one last winter. I placed pretty much a double set of hexes on the first pitch of Gully of the Gods (VI 6).

However, with a double set of cams I doubt I'd ever carry size 9 in Summer.

In reply to leewil86:

I reckon you'll be surprised how useful you find it on bigger featured types of rock. That's what I found anyway, especially granite. There's a granite route near me that the first ascensionists actually dragged a car jack up to protect the off width section but I wouldn't recommend keeping one of those on your rack.

The gear that amazes me are those huge cams. You'd have to be pretty certain you're going to use one of them to drag it up a route!

In reply to johncook:

I bet it was a nightmare to remove after being loaded! , thanks for the reply

In reply to leewil86:

They come out easily if you know how to place them correctly and remove them correctly. The removal of stuck gear is a skill which will serve you in good stead as you tour a number of crags and decide to clean up the 'litter' that has been left stuck in an assortment of placements!

In reply to leewil86:

I occasionally place my blue number 8 at Swanage, but it's always on the back of my harness (clipped short to keep it out of the way) and probably sees almost as much use when I'm seconding because there's nothing like a big hex for hammering on a nutkey. I leave my number nine at home though, there are occasions when I wish I had it but most of the time it would just be dead weight, and you can't inspect the routes from below to figure out what gear you might want when you're abseiling in to climb sea cliffs.

In reply to johncook:

That's how I got my size 9

In reply to leewil86:

Two main types of use not already described are wobbly limestone cracks where cams dont sit well and can skid (I'd say hexes, are near essential for VS and HVS limestone cracks) and a rarer example, hollow pockets. I see a fair few climbers carrying doubled up sets of identical gear (especially on US trad) where I would be looking a different equivalents to give more flexibility in protection (often the odd hex or maybe a tricam). Also on granite cracks these tend to flare more and pro can be forced to be based on constrictions.