/ UKC Fit Club week 511

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AJM - on 01 Jan 2017
Happy new year everyone!

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html

Last week’s thread can be found here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=655521
The 2016 roundup thread can be found here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=655705

Posters:
AJM
Tyler - did the squats kill all hope of running, or did you make it out?
mattrm - with that volume you should be able to get so e big days out done no bother!
SidH - well done on Jerry's! How's the heel?
JayK - TCA is good isn't it. Good cave tick, nice one
The sheep - that's some serious mileage for next year!
HMS - rest weeks should be rest weeks! Mind for burnout. How did you get on this week?
TonyB - what's your weight/goal route? (I'm assuming its one of Toms new ones?) I fi d it really hard too if that's an y consolation. 8a?
Dandan82 - serious pullups!
Richard Popp - welcome back!
Guy127917 - pretty solid pre Christmas week! Did you try the 2rm stuff with the AA slots?
Ally Smith - 113 is 8a+ onsight isn't it?
Leeboy - is it !eg strength or leg stamina for big Scottish days?
Planetmarshall - its a different type of head doing easy moves you probably wont fall off versus hard moves you almost certain!y will. They're just very different. Life is sweet is brilliant!
biscuit - quiet week every now and again isn't so bad...
TheFasting - sounds like so e really good progress nice one
Just Tintin - enjoy Mallorca!
the sheep - on 01 Jan 2017
In reply to AJM:

Not got a clue what days of the week they were so going with dates instead

27th 45km ride. Nice to be out and about, average pace 25.3kph so no great speed but good to be burning off the turkey.

28th 7.6 km run. Decided to go off road for the first time. Frozen tracks and bright sunshine. Very enjoyable

31st 5.3 km run. Out along the sea front. Nice change of scenery.

1st 8.5km run. Longest run to date. Satisfying way to start the new year. Just need to keep it up for the next 364 days!

hms - on 01 Jan 2017
In reply to AJM:

Oh don't you start at me too!! It wasn't exactly sold to me as a 'rest week' - if it had been I would have! The wording was 'transition week'. So given Christmas, walls being shut, family shizzle, MiL due to descend etc, budging 1 session forward by 1 day seemed prudent.

Have got very confused trying to remember what I did when during the week, so this may be a tad approximate.

M - Boxing day. Urban walking in the greyness.
T - Lopez max hangs with +18kg for 10 sec on BM1000 bottom edge. Forearm curls, S&C.
W - Sore throat turned into burning lungs full of gunge & hacking cough. Went to the cinema to infect lots of other people.
T - TCA. 1 hour boulder projects, which I mentally struggle with. Continuity on shallower circuit board.
F - MiL decided not to visit after all, due to my hacking cough. Lots of stretching, rehab etc. Think this was the day I did the vanilla fingerboard repeaters too.
S - UCR. Continuity on routes, although had to pull the rope between ascents on anything not totally flat due to staff twitchness plus general faffing meant the 10 mins off turned in to rather more. About 15 routes all told, mainly 6a-6b. Then 1on/2off circuits on the 6c+ & 7a, starting in various different places. This went really well - was feeling strong.
S - New Years Day. Utter grey dismalness. Pressups/crunches & fingerboard bimbling to warm up, then 1on/1off with 7.5kg assist. Will also do some rehab later on. R shoulder is feeling worked rather than broken, but trying not to forget the rehab would be wise.
biscuit - on 01 Jan 2017
In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy. Happy New Year.

If only it was a quiet week every now and then. It's been quiet since September.

I did get a climb in this week at least. 2nd round of the Winter league at The Depot. I had one go at the first round a few weeks ago and it went badly. My elbows flared up (cured now as we conveniently covered it at uni the following week) and I felt rubbish and climbed badly. I had a goal before round one of getting 200 points (30 problems max 10 points each) in a round and achieved that by flashing the first 21 after warming up on 20 easy problems just to get some flow and movement back. Actually having the time to warm up and down makes a difference and I shall resolve not to grab quick sessions without this from now on. I'd be better off spending this time doing technique drills or core etc.

So it's good I got 210 points on my first visit (they're up for a few more weeks yet) however I feel they were set so the majority could achieve the first 20, so a bit of a hollow victory. There was a marked difference between problem 20 and 21 upwards. I only got 21 as it was a vert problem. The rest are all properly steep. I had a few tries on 3 or 4 of the others and think there's at least 3 of those that should go. So i'm going to aim for 230 points and we'll see how it gets on.

I'm mulling over some goals atm. Not decided which way they're heading yet.

STG - next week

Climb twice - The Depot for Winter league.
AWCC for routes or boulder if can't find partner.
Put together a plan for addressing my poor hip flexibility and strength.
AJM - on 01 Jan 2017
In reply to hms:

> Oh don't you start at me too!!

Coach noticed then did he?!
TheFasting on 01 Jan 2017
In reply to AJM:
Thanks AJM!

I already posted my training for the past week I guess, so I can post my 2017 goals instead:

- Onsight 5.10 sport

- Climb an f7a boulder problem.

- Top-rope 150 pitches of ice (don't think I'll have time to start leading until the end of the 2nd season of ice climbing)

- Get into some couloirs to keep me busy until I can take the trad course. The North-East couloir of Nordre Soleibotntind is something I'd like to do this year ( http://www.randopedia.net/tourimages/nordre_soleibotntind__north_east_colouir_0.jpg )

- Do some multi-pitch trad climbs. Via Lara (n3+), and Agent Orange (n5+). Mot Sola (n6-) will probably be for next year.
Climb the North Wall of Glittertinden (the crux is F5a, but mostly F4a and F3a, I think it'll work as a beginner alpine route), possibly the North-east Wall of Veobreahesten and the East Pillar (D) of Leirhøe in one go.

- Do some easy technical winter mountaineering (maybe a winter ascent of Store Skagastølstind or Romsdalshorn? Both are about F4a)
Post edited at 17:08
Si dH - on 01 Jan 2017
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy.

2016/17 winter goals (by end of February):

- Reduce weight (measured on a Sunday night) back to 11st 0lb
- Do a few grit f7Bs (particularly keen for Suavito, Jerry's Traverse and Spare Rib, but keeping this flexible - so far done Jerry's Traverse)
- Tetris (f7C)

2017 early spring goals (by end of April):

- Do lots of Font 7s in our trip in early March (target of 10+)
- Do Eastwood Traverse
- Try Powerband

M: nothing
T: went to Gardoms and had a couple of hours on Soft on the G (f7B). I picked this out as I know it's fairly low and the landing is very good. Heel was fine, phew - hurt a bit walking in and out but no problem landing on a pad. I find this problem quite hard but by the end of the session I managed to do basically all the moves except for one foot movement, which is much better progress than my previous visit 2 years ago, when I couldn't get off the ground. It should probably go quickly with good conditions now.
W: rest &went to visit family/friends in Cheshire
T: flying visit to Gardoms on the way home again. Disaster: (a) the finishing holds still had morning frost on them at 2pm, (b) I didn't warm up enough and knackered my left elbow in about 2 attempts on the starting moves. I persisted for a little while but it got really painful and I basically couldn't do any moves. Went home, felt demotivated about climbing and injuries in general, ate and drank for two days.
F-S: nothing except some elbow rehab. I've used new year to give myself a talking to and am out tomorrow so feeling a bit more motivated again now

Injury catalogue: Elbow issues have arisen obviously due to karma of some kind after my discussion with biscuit last week. I've been doing some rehab the last two days and I think it is a specific type of move on my left arm that aggravates it (simultaneously pulling hard while twisting the arm a lot, ie trying to turn the hold anticlockwise, in a pinch grip.) I just need to avoid doing this too often. More positively, although it's not right yet, my heel is definitely improving.

Weight last night Sunday night was 11 st 6 lb. The 4 lb increase on xmas day vs xmas eve has unfortunately been sustained and consolidated due to a week of gluttony and occasional beer. New Year resolution 1: back on the diet as of today!

Si
Post edited at 17:12
The Ex-Engineer - on 01 Jan 2017
In reply to AJM: I'm hopefully back for 2017 with a New Year's resolution not to loose focus after the Winter.

The wall was only opening Tues-Fri and shut early at 8pm so ended up projecting rather than having more structured sessions.

M - Nil
T - Short Bouldering session. Mainly playing on the one remaining bloc in the front room I hadn't done. Some desperate grey slopers and pinches with a dynamic second move to a small edge. Fell off lots.
W - Short Bouldering session. Fell off the same move lots more although at least this time I was hitting the edge consistently. Also, fell off the next move a couple of times but found a possible sequence.
T - Short Bouldering session. Got the third move but had lots more falling off until about 5 minutes before closing time when I latched the second move.
F - Short Bouldering session. Lots more falling off trying to link the first two moves (rather than doing a cheating jump start). Similarly to the day before, I finally managed it at 7.50pm, just before the wall shut for the year.
S & S - Nil

The aim for this coming week is to be back to longer sessions including more stretching, core and antagonist exercises. It'd be good to mix it up a bit with some reps, circuits or leading in addition to projecting the remaining blocs before the reset on 16 Jan. I also need to decide if I'm going to add some foot-on campusing to my training this Winter.

guy127917 - on 01 Jan 2017
In reply to AJM:

> Guy127917 - pretty solid pre Christmas week! Did you try the 2rm stuff with the AA slots?

I didn't do that yet, due to forgetting the batteries, but I did some further strength benchmarking this week.

This week I tracked my diet all week, and got the number of hours of each type of training in that I planned. We didn't get outdoors at the weekend due to weather looking awful but that meant I had more chance to get the training in which was good. The next week is the highest volume in my plan before a Scottish winter trip so will probably be tough. STG is to get through it injury free. Also cross fingers every day for some cold weather up there.

M: 1:10 running with the Christmas "weight belt"
T: Went to gym at 8pm, closed
W: Went to gym at 6am, still closed
40 minute running
2 x 15mins aerocap, 10 max boulder attempts on wave (3-6 moves), max hangs up to +35kg on BM1000 20mm edges two handed, -13.75kg (70kg total) one handed (with pulley).
Th:
30 minute tempo run
2 x 15 minute aerocap
3 sets of 3x 90s on, 3 mins off @6b
F: 1:30 slow run
Sa: Gym- 14 sets chest, 12 legs, 15 minutes core
Su: 2 x 15 aerocap, 1 hour bouldering, 3x45s/60s foot on campus (this was supposed to be ancap but i think the rest ratio means it was more aeropow- i stopped being able to grip rather than getting pumped though)


Tyler - on 01 Jan 2017
In reply to AJM:
> Tyler - did the squats kill all hope of running, or did you make it out?
The DOMS weren't too bad but my cold was so no running.

M: Nothing
T: Went to Ratho, was feeling pretty under the weather. Managed one 7a OS and would have done a couple more were I not a coward. Grades felt relatively benign.
W: Ill
T: Ill
F: felt rubbish, climbed rubbish, managed one move I'd not done before but none of the problems. Did manage to double the 7a circuit but I think it's uncharacteristically easy.
S: Depot felt stronger than I did last time I went and did most of the Reds I couldn't do then. Flashed numbers 19 and 20 of the comp probs (didn't try any others) so have to agree with Biscuit that they are geared towards punters to this number at least.

Next couple of weeks are going to be pretty full on with both coming weekends accounted for, so no plans.

New year weight 10 stone 13
Post edited at 22:23
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biscuit - on 02 Jan 2017
In reply to Tyler:



> S: Depot felt stronger than I did last time I went and did most of the Reds I couldn't do then. Flashed numbers 19 and 20 of the comp probs (didn't try any others) so have to agree with Biscuit that they are geared towards punters to this number at least.

Well that confirms they must be easy ;)

It is nice they do it as you wouldn't bother entering a comp where you could only do 5/30 problems. It was very well received in the kids comp earlier this year where kids who've previously felt demoralised had a great time. But I reckon 20 out of 30 being 'easy' is a bit much.

I'll just have to plough on and try hard tomorrow.

Curious Yellow - on 02 Jan 2017
In reply to AJM:
Morning all, Happy New Year!

Mon: Nothing.
Tues: Wall. Bouldering. Tired and heavy.
Wedns - Sat: Sofa-bound.
Sun: Quiddity ran out of patience with my laziness and made me go to the wall. Felt much better for it. Fingerboard, weighted pullups, 3x 8 mins on, 8 mins off.
TonyB - on 02 Jan 2017
In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy,
I'm going to do a double post next week rather than split the trip in two. The first part of the trip was mainly climbing with my wife. I only spent one afternoon on the 8a and didn't tick it; the next 6 days are climbing with a friend and hopefully we can crank things up a bit.
AJM - on 02 Jan 2017
In reply to AJM:

Super busy first half of the week with a stream of family visitors - that plus work left no time for anything else.

Things got a bit better by nye - went to the wall. Shoulder felt a bit tweaky so not a long session.

New years day I sawed and chopped one of the remaining logs from the hedge to break it down into firewood.

Then since its a long weekend and it makes my week look better I had a second day on fighting torque today. Wonderful weather.

Couple of trips up it and big progress. Eats my skin though. I've now done the missing move or 2 from last time and can put some decent links together:
- the easy intro
- the first boulder problem to the undercuts, although I need a bit more commitment to clip
- the start of the second boulder problem, from the undercuts to spanned on the good hold on the arête
- from the spanned position to the top.
I feel like some stress proofing is needed but I don't think its far away from overlapping halves. Pretty pleased with that especially at current holiday weight.
Dandan82 - on 03 Jan 2017
In reply to AJM:

> - the start of the second boulder problem, from the undercuts to spanned on the good hold on the arête

> - from the spanned position to the top.

Did you go for the big spanned reach instead of up to the sharp RH crimp and heel hook then span? If you have the reach then I guess it's preferable as it saves a move.

Sounds like great progress!
Ally Smith on 03 Jan 2017
In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy; >110 was the old threshold for 8a+ OS, but the Boardroom lattice board with the new rungs and resin cross pieces feels much easier than Tom's old wooden bannister set-up in his garden. No real data to back-up that though, especially as it's >2 years since i tested on that set-up.

Week 1:
M - Stretch & armaid only
T - Wright’s Rock, Churnet for a change. Got my pants pulled down and spanked royally! My lack of pocket strength really shown up. Worked a sequence for, and had 4 RPs on Wright’s Traverse, each time failing on the cross-through crux with numb fingers (air temp of 1.5C is not the place for route length boulder problems!) No elbow grumbles Felt despondent at the time for not getting up a single >7A problem, but in retrospect, this was the kick-up the ar$e session I needed, hence the motivation for a core beasting when I got home; 3x30 dish-tucks, 3x2x15 side-bridge/crunch (hard), 3x50 crunchies, 2x20 glute raises.
W - Oblique DOMS – new one on me! Rehab: 3x8 OHP@35kg, 2x20 hammer eccentrics @14kg & theraband for shoulder
T - WFH lunchtime max-hangs: 51/55/51/51(8s only in the last set – overcooked it with the 55kg max-effort) but by golly – I hung on for 10s with Moose hanging off my back! https://www.vimeo.com/197400682 After work; re-warm-up, then 10:3 an-cap fingerboard @60% (+13.5kg) 138s max; woeful decay curve over 6 sets, once again shows my lack of aero-cap. Evening stretching.
F - 1on/1off x15 hi-end aero-cap & 3x10min low-end aero-cap – skin trashing session
S - hammer curl eccentrics then drive to London for knees up
S - Tired & hungover visit to V&A and Science museums before driving home.

MTG – end of Jan:
Deadlift again - aiming for 100kg (go use a proper gym!)
Concentrate on long an-cap & aero-power
Record FoC & Lattice benchmarks in same week
Make training plan(s) for Chulilla in late Feb (done) and onwards to peaking in June/July for Kilnsey project
Put extra bolt in Malham route – Baba O’Riley, and investigate other FA options

LTG – end 2017:
Climb >8a on 2 new rock-types; slate & conglomerate (or grit traverse?)
8b in Chulilla in Feb.
8A/+ in the cave: Broken Trigger, In Life or The Wire
The Traverse of the Gods.
Kilnsey Project(s).
hms - on 03 Jan 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

he can reach from the sharp RH crimp (much grumbling wafted down about its sharpness!). I can't even get a toe round the arête from there, let alone then reach the good hold, so think I'm doomed to go up the groove instead, using the crimp with a LH gaston. It isn't that sharp, really!!
AJM - on 03 Jan 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

No - undercuts, rat crimp in the groove, toehook, pull left to the good hold - your beta but a toe rather than a heel.
Dandan82 - on 03 Jan 2017
In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy, happy new year everyone!

I managed to stick (mostly) to the plan this week, despite never really being sure what day it was, I also managed to avoid the worst of the holiday eating excesses so I'm somehow still a sprightly 65kg.
I did just completely forget to do a session one day, I had been pretty good at downing tools on the workshop and doing the training sessions but that one day it just never occurred to me, I was so busy painting window frames...

M: Bar and rings

T: Indoor routes; Polarised continuity at 7a+/6a
Also went to a trampoline park which someone bought us as a crimbo present, it was good fun but seriously, no back flips? Health and safety madness. Weirdly I had massive shoulder and neck DOMS but my legs were fine.

W: Fingerboard; 2rm pull ups on AA edge at +45kg, 7/3 on AA edge at +15kg

T: Core

F: Portland; As far as we could see, we had the entire West coast to ourselves on a glorious, still, sunny day! The rest of the mainland was shrouded in cloud but the Portland microclimate pulled out a belter, wall to wall sunshine.
I did some training on an outdoor route for the first time, it felt really odd. I did 1 on 2 off on Wolfgang Forever (7a) which is quite suitably sustained but ideally it should have been a slightly harder route.
also had a play on Boilermaker (7c) which had some really nice moves but then had an indecipherable, super thin crux with no feet, my least favourite. Without further beta, which nobody I know has got, I doubt i'll put much more time into it which is a shame as parts of the route were great.

S: Fingerboard; slightly different session, 5/5 repeaters on AA edge at +27kg and 2rm pull ups on 40mm edge at +54kg, pushing the limits now, its getting v. hard!

S: Nothing, just a whole load of DIY club which I have been doing all week. Workshop is looking good though, it's all clad on the outside, has a roof, even some gutters. Just need some doors and windows and I can put some stuff in it!

As a bank holiday bonus, we got out to Portland AGAIN yesterday! To be fair it was bitterly cold, the wind was just a little too Northerly for the crag to fully shield us from it, but again we had the whole west coast to ourselves, and it was pretty pleasant in the sheltered spots. I made a quick ascent of Twangy Pearl (7b) which I had a go on several years ago but never ticked. Took me a while to figure out the sequence, I spent a long time looking in the wrong place for holds, and it felt tough while working it, but it went really smoothly on redpoint, a deserving 3 stars.
Also onsighted the crumble-fest that is That Honeycomb Centre (7a) so a nice start to my 2017 ticklist.

Last weeks STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session - TICK
All sessions on plan - FAIL, damn, missed one!
Get outside this week - Double TICK

New STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session -
All sessions on plan - (there's 11 sessions to do this week!)

MTG: (next few months)
Re-test on the Lattice board, booked in for 1st Feb, hoping for 100 moves max
Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Going very well
8a on Lattice Trip in Feb
8a+
Pull on to Photo Shot (8b)

LTG: (next Year)
* 3 Holidays (already got Lattice trip in Feb and Margalef in April so this ones in the bag)
* tick 3 x 8a
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook)
* tick 8b (nothing wrong with some optimism)
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps)
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
Richard Popp - on 03 Jan 2017
In reply to AJM:
Hi all, Happy New Year.
Everything a bit back to normal-frustrating at the minute, shoulder still painful but have the Ok to get back climbing-dare not quite call it training-a session at redpoint and TCA have made me realise how much I have los since early October-it is not a short break.
Mon-L=Drive North-core
Tues-Walk round Yorkshire Sculpture Park, nice but cant really round as exercise, core.
Wed-Back-short but steep run, 25mins, shoulder strengthening, core rest.
Thurs-Redpoint, probably about 15 routes in just over two hours, came thick and fast with no break. Head fine, clipping at clip and falling. Struggling on anything over 6b/6b+. Core.
Fri-legs sore from yesterday. Shoulder no better or worse. Shoulder strengthening and core.
Sat-longer run and core
Sun-Core and shoulders-drive to cook lunch for aged P.

Kind of O, now back at work-this weeks plan is light bouldering, keep up the core, a leading session and a couple of runs. Get through a few weeks of limbering up and then probably get a bit more focused.

Rich

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leeboy1985 - on 03 Jan 2017
In reply to AJM:

Thanks AJM

More stamina than anything as I am on a 5 day course for the first week so just don't want to be tired. Then I get a second week with the family but I will manage to get out for 2 days

Next weeks goals

Eat correctly all week and weigh 80kg again - currently after all the pies at Christmas I am back up to 81kg
2 mountain days covering at least 10 miles and 800 meters accent on both of these. Going to aim to get out for a wild camp on the weekend
Climb twice - One session on limit bouldering. One session on taking it easy and practicing footwork
2 sessions of TFTNA conditioning 2 rounds each time

M - rest
T - 10 mile 500 meter accent walk around Fan Fawr
W - Climbing bouldering up to v2
T - Sort of climbing but I took the 2 youngest and spent more time watching them
F - Long day drove up to north wales to climb Hope (VD) and Cneifion Arete (D) and then drove back
S - 15 mile 1600 meter accent walk around the beacons
S - Rest

Happy Training
Lee


Si dH - on 03 Jan 2017
In reply to Ally Smith:

> T - Wright’s Rock, Churnet for a change. Got my pants pulled down and spanked royally! My lack of pocket strength really shown up. Worked a sequence for, and had 4 RPs on Wright’s Traverse, each time failing on the cross-through crux with numb fingers (air temp of 1.5C is not the place for route length boulder problems!) No elbow grumbles Felt despondent at the time for not getting up a single >7A problem, but in retrospect, this was the kick-up the ar$e session I needed, hence the motivation for a core beasting when I got home; 3x30 dish-tucks, 3x2x15 side-bridge/crunch (hard), 3x50 crunchies, 2x20 glute raises.

That cross-through is a bit of a heartbreaker. What else did you try? Some of the problems there are fairly technical/unobvious if you don't have any beta.
Ally Smith on 03 Jan 2017
In reply to Si dH:

I went to Wright's rock a few years ago and did a few things. The other day I tried the slopey crimp problem, simple Simon (got the high LH crimp a few times but couldn't get the break) and at the end the session I tried SS indirect, but was far too knackered to make an impression.

I'm keen for a return match...
Si dH - on 03 Jan 2017
In reply to Ally Smith:

Cool. The sloper problem uses a weird drop knee on your right foot in a hole. You obviously weren't that weak if you made it to the high crimp on Simple Simon, that's pretty hard!
Just Tintin - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to AJM:

Sorry Andy - just thought I'd posted and haven't. Mallorca good and I'll do a full report this week.
Bobling - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to AJM:

Last minute effort to document a lack of effort. First entry for a while after missing a few weeks as sunk all spare time into work/Xmas prep. Time to get things moving again. Happy New Year FitClub!

Mon - Fat
Tues - Lazy
Weds - Weak
Thurs - Slothful
Fri - Run out of synonyms
Sat - Run 30.24 ,4.81 kms. It told me it was a new record! Found a big hill too so happy days.
Sun - Drunk. Ugh.

Weight: 73.50 (c. half a kilo Xmas gain, could be worse)
Injury report: Exercises - press-ups, sit sups, one leg stands leg in front, one leg stands leg behind, squat stance, use foam roller.

New Goals:
Short Term (through to January 2017). Press -ups - 60 in 2 mins. Sit-ups 55 in 2 min. Flash 6b at the wall. Start gentle running - 5k twice a week (when?!). Get outside at least once a month. Alternate trips to the wall and the pool in different weeks.

Medium Term (before September 2017): Unknown Wall at Avon, The other Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe, Osiris at Fall Bay, Tons in Pembs, Tons at Chair Ladder, LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi, Freedom at Wintours. Run a 10k again. Tick 3 more classic rock ou

Long Term : I'd love to run a marathon! The Cuillin Ridge, DoWH, Cenotaph Corner.
planetmarshall on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to AJM:

Quick update -

Sat Walked into El Makinodromo for an attempt on Life is Sweet (6c). Didn't get it but it's well within my (physical) ability. Making plans to head back. Dave worked Trainspotting (8a) and gave minutely detailed beta to a couple of guys working Lourdes (8a). Impressive stuff.
Sun Last day. Las Encantadas, Worked Mataillos Lugarenos (6c) - bouldery and a bit nails. Didn't get this one either, again physically within my capabilities, although I did run out of time as had to hike back down to the train station.

STG A bit of a break then back into training mode.
mattrm - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to AJM:

The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)

Weight - ??? Scales ran out of batteries, probably fatter...

M - W - Rest
T - 30 routes at wall
F - S - Rest / laziness

Managed to get out in the Christmas gap. Hope to up to at least two sessions a week in the new year and get some outdoor climbing done.

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