UKC

Can anyone tell me which areas of Water-cum-Jolly crag is sport. For example, how much of the easier stuff is sport. I'm heading there with friends who don't climb so hard but want to know whether I can save myself taking all my trad kit.

Thanks

Dan Water-cum-Jolly

In reply to ambitiousmelon:

Ain't no easy sport in WCJ, sorry. Best you can do is a really really polished bouldering traverse above a mud lake.

In reply to ambitiousmelon:

there's a few 6a ish routes up top on the opposite side of the river to the boulder traverse, just past the cornice, they are fun but not great, also there's a route past dragonflight about 6a if you sneak around the crux

In reply to ambitiousmelon:

The majority is sport but as said above there is nothing really that would be easy sport although I guess that depends on what you class as easy, there a odd routes of 6c ish that are good spread over the Dale but I would say most stuff starts at 7a then upwards from there. Plenty of trad routes but again nothing really in the lower grades and the other thing to consider is that most of it will probably be wet , left side of rubicon can be dry at times but nothing below 7c on there and that's if you can get to it without wading, for easy sport that is likely to be dry the options would be horse poo , goddards, stoney West and a few routes on garage buttress

In reply to ambitiousmelon:

The grades tell you the style -

HVS 5a, E1 5b etc = trad,

6a, 7a etc = sport,

f6C, f7A = bouldering


Chris

In reply to ambitiousmelon:

There's some worthwhile 6c and 6c+s on Central Buttress.

In reply to climber34neil:
At the moment Rubicon area is completely dry, even Caviar and all the way along to Salar. The puddles are only damp mud. It's like summer.

Moat Buttress is supposed to be reliable for conditions but I've no idea what it would be like now. The Cornice will definitely be wet.

OP: Ignoring conditions, if you climb in the 7s there is lots to go at, if you don't then there's not much.

Edit: looking at your profile, especially at this time of year, you'd be better off elsewhere