UKC

Does anyone know if there is any good guidebooks of info about the ice climbing in Haut-Champsaur and Valgaudemar valleys in the southern French alps? as after googling various options I'm coming up short on answers.

In reply to edhawk21:

You might have found "Cascades de glace - Champsaur - Valgaudemar - Dévoluy" publshed almost 10 years ago & probably now out of print.

maybe https://www.camptocamp.org/waypoints/199108/fr/cascades-de-glace-champsaur is of interest?

In reply to edhawk21:

Odd bit available here
http://conditions.ice-fall.com/secteurs/goulottes-valgaudemar

In reply to Doug:
I've done some (limited) exploration in the area and climbed a handful of routes here and there in 1999 and again in 2000. I only went twice due to frustration with fickle ice conditions and far too much snow. But at least it's possible to 'commute' out of the area if all else fails - as the upper Ubaye (many short and not-so-short icefalls accessible from the D900), Les Orres (excellent routes when in condition) and the whole Queyras region are all within driving distance. There's even a new guide to the latter: http://www.approach-outdoor.com/topos-cascade-de-glace/4958-cascades-en-que...

I agree that "Cascades de glace - Champsaur - Valgaudemar - Dévoluy" is probably out of print now as it was always quite a rare book, with very limited distribution even when first published. http://glace.montagne05.fr/?id_rubrique=9 I have a copy, purchased from the shop in Gap mentioned on the above link. There's a slight chance that they may be able to help and it may be worth giving them a call - Vertige Montagne +33 4 92 51 91 78 (Usual caveats apply so don't assume/ expect any fluency in English.)

I also have a copy of the much older "Cascades de glace du Sud Dauphine" by Didier Leon, which has some (inferior) coverage of the area but that is long out of print. Otherwise, as Doug says, in the absence of a current printed guidebook, then Camp to Camp is your invaluable friend, with plenty of good info/ topos/ maps etc.: https://www.camptocamp.org/books/150935/fr/cascades-de-glace-champsaur-valg...

Many of the region's icefalls are visible from a road; some are very easily accessible too - eg those at Tourrengs - where we saw lynx prints in the snow as we walked off from the top of La Centrale.

Get in touch if you need any more specific info.

In reply to edhawk21:

Great thanks all. I am staying in Orcieres in Feb so wanted to get a few routes in if I can find somewhere in condition.
I will probably head to Tourrengs as its round the corner and then attempt to ask locals if they no of any other good spots that are in condition when I'm there.

In reply to edhawk21:

A few useful hints if climbing at Tourengs, which has the most accessible climbing in the area (<10 mins from the parking):

The climbs are longer than you think when looked at from a distance. (eg. La Centrale (WI4+/5) is 180m.) They are all steepest at the very top and can be vertical for many metres, even on the WI3s. The given grades seem to be for fat conditions, so always treat with a little caution. Belays are on trees or screws. En route escape is possible by abseiling from trees or by carefully descending steep ground through the trees. The 'chemin de descente', rightwards at the very top of the crag, via the winter ghost hamlet of Le Veyret, is a long old way and can be hard work in fresh, deep snow, so best allow plenty of time for the walk-off.

Walk-ins are quite a bit longer further up the Drac Noir valley around Prapic (above Orcieres) and can be a PITA without snowshoes/ skis in deep snow. If the road's open, then the Cascade de Serre Lunel (120m, WI3+/4) is worth a punt. 30-40 min approach from parking on the road not far below Archinard - or longer if breaking trail. Further up and right, there's also the easier Cascade d'Archinard which I haven't done.

HTH

Dave

In reply to edhawk21:

I've got pdfs of the old interweb topos that used to be on the montagne05 site until a few years ago (they seemed to disappear around the time of the publication of the guidebook - or at least I haven't been able to find them online since then - so it's possible they may be 'first drafts').

A few of us spent several winter seasons in Champsaur/Valgaudemar during the Noughties and found they provided plenty of info to keep you occupied during a visit.

You're more than welcome to copies if you want. (They're all in French by the way, naturellement).

Cheers,
Col