/ What's the best obscure route you've ever done?

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Iain Thow - on 09 Jan 2017
There are loads of really good routes around that nobody ever does, so what's the best route you've ever done that nobody's likely to have heard of?
Mine would probably be Mosaic (VS 4b) in North Pembrokeshire. Amazing emerald rock in a weird jigsaw pattern and a gorgeous setting.
alan moore - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

The Proletarian, further up the coast on the People's Cliff was really good.
Iain Thow - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to alan moore:

Certainly looks a really nice line.
DerwentDiluted - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:
Good thread

One that stands out for me is Potempkin near Kynance Cove, so obscure its not yet in the database. From memory about 50m of dubious rock with one trustable nut at about halfway.

First Blood (HVS 4c) is an obscure gem, only a stones throw from the M1 but its a lost world and its a beast, overgraded at HVS but puts the ee! In weetabix.

Gin Crack (VS 4c) Rock Stripper (VS 4c) and Teacher's Pet (VS 4c) a good VS day for the punter who has done all they can at Diabaig. Gin crack in particular is really rather good.

There will be a few more lurking in the dark recess' of my memory but those spring straight to mind.
Post edited at 21:22
davidbeynon on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:
Probably The Claw on the exmoor coast or Pillar Buttress up on A' Mhaighdean. They don't see much traffic.

I would say Pillar Buttress was very good by any standard, and The Claw is horrible in many ways but quite an experience.
Post edited at 21:44
jim jones on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

Any one of many routes in the Rhinogs particularly The Haw Lantern (E3 5c) a real gem in a lovely area.
Simon Caldwell - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

At one time it would probably have been Bianco (VS 4b) - a no-star route on a crag that everyone thought was falling-down-awful. But Rockfax and the new BMC guide have ruined that by giving it 2 stars.

Pinnacle Ridge (D) was pretty good, but more due to a combination of the situation, and relief at actually finding the thing!

But on reflection it's got to be Odyssey (VS 5a) - no stars in any previous guide, we did it when route checking the latest edition and it's one of the best routes I've done, even though I couldn't do the crux! Easily worth the 3 stars I tried to give it, but I was outvoted on the basis that an unstarred route couldn't be worth 3 so it's in with just 2. I bet nobody else climbs it before the next edition is out though, they'll all be queuing across the valley at Heptonstall.
AlanLittle - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

Probably Pig's Ear at Whitwick or The Rack at Huncote. Both top quality climbing on solid quarried granite, the latter about the second or third ascent. So obscure that one was landfilled decades ago and the other afaik has been blown up.
scott titt - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

Daear Ddu Groove (E3 5c). High up on a North facing crag in N Wales, but great rock and a good line.
The Dare (E2 5b) is pretty good as well.
Iain Thow - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to davidbeynon:

Pillar Buttress looks great, I've soloed the two buttresses just right of it. Excellent rock in one of the best situations in Britain. Red Slab just down the ridge is great too, Diff moves, Extreme exposure.
Iain Thow - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Oddly enough I had a pub conversation earlier this evening in which how good Bianco is came up. Cracking route, rubbish crag.
Iain Thow - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Wasn't so keen on Pinnacle Ridge though, pulled a huge chunk off it about half way up and had a very scary escape across ledges on the right. Thought M&B Buttress further right was better, although very escapable.
davidbeynon on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:
I would love to go back but it's a long way from Bristol and finding people willing to do that approach is hard.

I have a vague scheme to take a couple kayaks across Loch Maree and spend a couple of days climbing on Beinn Lair that could easily be extended into a repeat visit though...
Post edited at 22:35
Iain Thow - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to DerwentDiluted:

Any excuse to go to Diabaig is welcome!
Captain Solo on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:
Trawling through my logbook I came upon Lumps (VD) on caisteal a Garbh coire on Skye which I remember was really fun at the time. Protruding holds on immaculate rough rock, anywhere else with greater accessiblility and less competition would be ***. Then lo and behold upon further examination the only other user to have logged it...
Post edited at 22:52
Michael Hood - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to AlanLittle:

> Probably Pig's Ear at Whitwick or The Rack at Huncote. Both top quality climbing on solid quarried granite, the latter about the second or third ascent. So obscure that one was landfilled decades ago and the other afaik has been blown up.

Pig's Ear is still there if you garden with a JCB Great route as was Grudge to its left.
The Rack is defo blown up into pieces - another great piece of rock now lost - some of the routes in Huncote are still physically there but I've no idea if anyone has managed to access them in the years since the new quarry expanded into the old climbing one.
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Iain Thow - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Captain Solo:

Brill, isn't it!
MusicalMountaineer - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

Yellow Wall (E1 5a)

A real gem of a move. In a sweet little setting! While every other piece of peak rock was sodden.
Greenbanks - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to AlanLittle:

I remember Whitwick - just...Sceptre, Orb were I recall quite good. Got an old (yellow) Leics guide somewhere. Might need to have a look back. While we're at it, in that neck of the woods, Barrow Hill Quarry was pretty choice!
The Ivanator - on 09 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:
At Swanage I've enjoyed Lost Souls (VS 4c) at the Halsewell Bars. My log notes: Proper esoterica! Finding the climb is probably harder than climbing it - the lack of an abseil boulder mentioned in the CC guide meant we were unsure we were in the right spot, although all became clear once over the edge. Found decent nuts to rig an abseil near the base of quarried wall at the back of the ledge just West of a big cave with quarryman's carvings near the entrance. Situation and atmosphere in bucketloads and a decent climb - chossy exit which is probably best negotiated by pulling on the ab rope.
Post edited at 23:42
Dave Garnett - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to DerwentDiluted:

> One that stands out for me is Potempkin near Kynance Cove, so obscure its not yet in the database. From memory about 50m of dubious rock with one trustable nut at about halfway.

Was there still a wire jammed in that one good placement? There was when I did it and I suspect it might have been one of Pete O'Sullivan's from the first ascent.
Michael Hood - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Greenbanks:
I still pop in to Beacon Hill if I'm down that way. One time a couple of years ago I met someone with the even older mythical red guidebook.

I gave my yellow guidebook away after moving away from Leics.

Barrow Hill, hmm, quite esoteric even for Leicestershire.
Post edited at 08:21
DerwentDiluted - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Dave Garnett:

I think so, it was about 2005 when I did it, I cant remember the detail of it but a single wire freatures heavily in my memory. I do remember feeling that this was a quality bit of esoteria, and that Kynance cove has a lot of potential for adventurous exploring.
SuperLee1985 - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

Probably not 'that' obscure but it's not in the Rockfax guide so that's got to count for something: I really enjoyed Axeover (VS 4c) at Tremadog.
Long and varied with each section harder and more exciting than the last, I still reckon it's the hardest VS I've ever done! I had to resort to a desperate dangle off the dead tree in the top groove, will be even harder once that tree goes/someone pulls it off.

I also Really enjoyed Sulu (VS 5a) at Yarncliffe, I know nothing in the peak can really be classed as obscure, but this is an overlooked route, that does not look particularly inviting but is actually fantastic.
Scomuir on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

I agree about Pinnacle Ridge & M&D Buttress. Despite being careful, I dislodged some rocks as well on Pinnacle Ridge, and there was a sizeable boulder sitting on a sloping ledge that needed to be scrambled over. Nice location though! M&D is a fun scramble.
Iain Thow - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Scomuir:

Ace place, isn't it. Thanks for the pics you sent to Noel for HSS, by the way, we've put several on the shortlist, including the one of M&B.
Scomuir on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

I'd forgotten about that - was some time ago? This year?
Simon Caldwell - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

> Cracking route, rubbish crag.

There are lots of other good routes there as well. And some tottering rubbish of course - we did the last known ascent of one route, it fell down a few weeks later.
nocker - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

I have a perverse attraction to Creeper Wall (VD) at Danby Crag. Deep in the ravine and invariably green. Worth severe I should say although it eats gear but with an iffy topout. On our annual visits, I look forward to someone leading it so I can relax and enjoy it on second but it seems always left to me for some reason.
Sophie G. - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

all the new ones
jonathandavey - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

I always wanted to do more at Horsehold, the peaceful atmosphere and outlook of the place is fantastic. But finding routes was a struggle with the old YMC guide. Presume the new one makes it much simpler?
Iain Thow - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

I enjoyed Oak Tree Walk, mainly for the silly bit in the tree, and Martini, but most of the rest either was or looked pretty shattered. Oh and Hard Men Don't Spot Lines Like This has to get a like just for the name!
Iain Thow - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Scomuir:

Sometime in 2015, I think. The one of Fingers Ridge is a cracker.
Chris Craggs - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

I remember doing Heart of Darkness and looked up the superb and unstarred groove of Sealhunt (E1 5b)

Came back later the same day and did it, eventually putting it in my 100 Best Limestone Climbs as an example of what there is lurking out there,


Chris
Scomuir on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

Sorry, my last question was lacking context - when is HSS due?
Simon Caldwell - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to jonathandavey:

> But finding routes was a struggle with the old YMC guide. Presume the new one makes it much simpler?

I hope so! I spent several hours exploring the place, looking for the best approaches, and went with the ones I found easiest. Still not intuitive but there should be enough detail to find them. Then once you get to the crags, there are photo topos for the routes.
Iain Thow - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Scomuir:

Hi, YHM
scott titt - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to The Ivanator:
Glad you liked it. Here's another one for you to try. The Pony (HVS 5a). It's in the CC Portland guide.
freemanTom - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

Quadratus Lumborum (S 4a) is exceptional, especially for the grade.

Worsel (VS 4c) Is much less travelled and I should of given it 2 stars. I wish someone would repeat it to get a second opinion not seen through 1st ascent tinted specs.
Iain Thow - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to freemanTom:

Yes, enjoyed Quadratus Lumborum, and the equally daftly-named one next door.
JimR - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

Pippet Slab at Stac An Fharaidh, supposed to be Severe, I was leading E2ish at the time and found it hard, and the belay was perched with one bum cheek in a hole in the slab with a hex between a bit of turf and a bit of granite. Almost used a point of aid on an overhanging crack. Still sticks in my mind after nearly 40 years so I suspect I may have been off route or a serious misgrading ;-) Proper adventure.
Iain Thow - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to JimR:

I had an epic on that one too. It was June and started to snow, we ended up escaping off right after a rather hairy descent of part of it.
Andy Nisbet - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to JimR:

> Pippet Slab at Stac An Fharaidh, supposed to be Severe. I suspect I may have been off route or a serious misgrading ;-) Proper adventure.

Well off-route. It used to be graded V.Diff; now that was a sandbag.

jcw on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

I still stick with the Girdle of Number 6 Buttress in Rocky Valley, Ilkley!
stewart murray - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

I did Sea Mist at Saddle Head before it was given any stars - it looked a much better line than the scratty grooves that most of the easy routes there take, - and it didn't disappoint.

Also Pernod on Scafell East Buttress only used to be rated 1 star. It's short compared to most of the routes around it but packs in some exciting climbing in good positions.
Gordon Stainforth - on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to stewart murray:

How on earth is Sea Mist obscure? I would guess that it's been one of the most popular routes in Pembrokeshire ever since it was first climbed. I see it's had 1388 ascents by UKCers alone!
2
Rog Wilko on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

I set up a ticklist devoted to such routes in the Lakes.
These are certainly some of the choice ones:
Cheekwooly (S)
Carpetbagger (VS 4b)
Grooves Traverse (HVS 5a)
Slim Buttress Arete (VS)
Rog Wilko on 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

And not to forget this one:
The Borrowdale Stare (VS)
Duncan Bourne - on 11 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

My favourites I already mentioned on another thread ("Lethal Flattery" E2 5c Pandy outcrop, "Le Chateau de cartes" Pen Hir, "Pharaoh's Chimney" IV Sinai ) but runners up would be "piece of Pile" HVS 5a Standing Stones, Chew valley a wild place. And Heighley Castle for all its wonderful traverses now lost to the brambles. I would go here twice a week when keen as it provided some pumpy and technical bouldering (there were upward problems but only a few worth doing as the top outs were horrendous. Always a tricky area for access as the farm doesn't like his pheasents to be disturbed, no climbing notices were frequently renewed but a low profile generally worked. Last time I went I needed secaturs to get at some of the routes. Best experience? surprising a group sex session as I rounded the corner to the second quarry
stewart murray - on 11 Jan 2017
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

I mentioned it because in the mid 80s Pembroke guide it was unstarred. In later guides it's obvious merits have been highlighted.
Gordon Stainforth - on 11 Jan 2017
In reply to stewart murray:

I did it in 1983 using the 1981 Littlejohn guide, which didn't have a star system. We were going to do the equally unstarred though highly recommended (by word of mouth) Blue Sky, but the tide was in and sea v rough, and Sea Mist was such an obvious feature that we did that instead. It was obviously a good route just to look at it. Line, quality of rock, etc.
walts4 - on 11 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

Definitely this:
Southeast Ridge (TD+ 6b)

A true gem, but its now in the new Chamonix rockfax book so it may tempt suitor's to go & have a look.

Although sure, the lack of bolts, problematical retreat & lack of reliable word of mouth information with deter most from attempting this.
Its so much better than the Grepon East face other than in historical stakes!!
French Erick - on 11 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

Millennium (E2 5c)

for the experience... Pitch 1&2 rock quality is less than enchanting though so probably left to people not at their limit. P2 is defo the psychological crux of the route with proper 5b moves with a moving handhold at the crux (thankfully led by my partner!).

For some reason it is the esoteric rockclimb that still makes me glow inside...which is why I think of it as one of the best. Deducing from it it's "the" best...well, we would need a definition.
tri-nitro-tuolumne on 11 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

The plastic route on Luzzone Dam (Diga di Luzzone) (6a+). Not exactly climbing but hey, that's what makes it obscure
mike barnard - on 11 Jan 2017
Tom V - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

Excellent choice. Did it as a TR solo in the 80's.

Another plea for someone to report back to me about Cordelia, Mur Cenhinen.....
SuperLee1985 - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to stewart murray:

I heard Flying Buttress was meant to be good.
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Andy Clarke - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

I see you are the only other person on UKC who's recorded an ascent of the rather enjoyable Something Better Change RH (E2 5b), next to the steps at The Roaches. I do enjoy finding obscure stuff at such a honeypot crag, but I'm surprised this hasn't appeared in the definitive guide, as it's a well-worthwhile variation, with what I thought were more involving moves than the parent route.
Offwidth - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Those comments on Odyssey are pretty unfair. From your logbook: "First pitch only then ran out of time. Could be a classic!" Several people checked out draft scripts on the crag climbing as much as we could (I was one of them.. so you can partly blame me) the editors simply didn't make decisions based on arbitrary rules like you imply.

2 stars is a classic grade and frankly the guidebook editor did you a favour as despite some good climbing and positions it's rather aimless, dirty and in parts often dank (even for a crag that takes time to dry). The crag is well worth a vist for adventurous climbers (from Severe) in a dryish spell from Spring, but overstarring quality doesn't enhance the experience of the visitor, it detracts. Your write up was good so trying to exaggerate quality of such routes you didn't even finish, would have let you down.

Iain Thow - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to Andy Clarke:
Yes, I thought it was definitely more testing than the normal version. Definitely wasn't the first person to do it, as I saw someone do it earlier that day and thought "that looks good".
Just noticed you did it in greasy conditions, good for you, no wonder you tested the jump.
Post edited at 11:58
Andy Clarke - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

> Just noticed you did it in greasy conditions, good for you, no wonder you tested the jump.

Yes, I'd driven up specially, after cleaning it a couple of days before, so I wasn't to be put off by having to wait in the car for the drizzle to finish, or by the fact that a pair of climbers retreating from the crag muttered "shouldn't bother mate" as they passed me! Having got away with it second go I decided to quit while my luck was in and scuttled back to the car sharpish.
Simon Caldwell - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

Except I went back and finished it later (with enough aid that I didn't bother logging it). And I'd also done most of the 2nd pitch on a top rope after abbing from above. And the comment was based on what I was told. And wasn't meant in a negative way at all, it was meant in a "please visit the crag and climb the route" way. Other than that your reply is fair
Quality is down to personal opinions, especially on such a rarely visited crag. But I stick by my assessment that it is one of the best routes I've done anywhere. We'll only get a consensus on grade (which might be HVS) and quality (which I think is 3 stars, you think is 2, but could easily be 1 or 0 for all I know) if enough others visit.

PS It gets hollow/green stars which indicate it may need a clean (though it didn't when I climbed it, other than removing some vegetation from the niche on p2)
PPS It's much better than Greensleeves which got 3 stars in the previous edition, and better than The Sizzle which has 2 stars (and did in the previous edition) and is verging on 3 (a bit short for that)
PPPS Most of my visits were in the Winter, as were most of the first ascents
Jimbo C - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to SuperLee1985:

> I also Really enjoyed Sulu (VS 5a) at Yarncliffe, I know nothing in the peak can really be classed as obscure, but this is an overlooked route, that does not look particularly inviting but is actually fantastic.

Sulu is an ace route, and you're right that it looks rubbish (actually looks quite hard too) but is really nice to climb. Probably not very obscure on the scale of things, but I too climb mostly in the Peak and can't think of much that is 'obscure'. One that comes to mind is Lime Juice Chimney Inside Route (M) at Carl Wark, I bet that hardly gets any ascents.

Iain Thow - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to Jimbo C:

Most of the obscure Peak stuff is up on the Moors - an example would be Jason and the Juggernauts (S) up on Kinder North Edge, which is a lovely fun jugfest (as you expect from the name). It gets a star but I've just looked it up and I'm still the only log, which is ridiculous.
Offwidth - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
More smoke and mirrors. Climbers like you and I are weird so what we really enjoy on obscure crags isn't what might be regarded as vaguely close to a consensus of one of the very best VS climbs on Yorkshire grit. If you aided it in my view you still haven't done it in the way you recommended it as crag author (ie an onsight lead at VS***). It's also not given hollow stars and was gopping on a good day in winter when climbs round on the more west- facing side looked almost OK ( when I walked the crag once).

Greensleeves is one star now (and in my opinion, like many routes at that crag, still a bit generous at that) and doesn't even get a route number. I didn't get to try Sizzler but it looked very poor for a YMC grit two star route (again not hollow). These are dumb comparisons for judging 2 star YMC grit VS. Having said that, you were not the first and won't be the last crag author who's enthusiasm for the mediocre gets the better of you and far from the worst: I've seen quite a few down-graded from 3 stars to none as part of the editorial process.

I simply don't believe Robin told you that was how it was graded (unless he was pulling your leg) and he was the only one who could know for sure (Moff and I only inputted to him direct, for instance).

As for winter visits ...good on you but I won't recommend that for the average adventure climber on a first time visit: weather windows are less common, the steep and slippery approach slopes and tops could be very hazardous, although the open rock on the climbs facing west does dry quick as they are exposed at a low altitude. Heptonstall far right is a much better local esoteric winter option for visiting lower grade climbers.
Post edited at 15:14
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Iain Thow - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Just realised where The Borrowdale Stare (VS) is. Had a look at it one winter day in about 1995 when doing a superbly icy Hind Crag Gully. Always intended to go back with a partner but never got round to it. Really nice bit of rock.
MG - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

I did a route in alps that I am 99% certain hadn't been climbed since the first ascent in the 1850s. On La Grivola, which is itself quite obscure.
Iain Thow - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to MG:
Isn't the Grivola a brilliant hill! Where was your route? Did the traverse of it in 1986, up over the minor peaks just south, then down the East Face. The descent was a bit epic, as we hadn't realised how much softer the snow would be on that flank. My partner had a slip (on a bit where we were rather stupidly unroped) and nearly went over a huge drop. Then he dropped his sack down the face, luckily the way we were going so we collected it later (only one broken buckle despite the 1000 foot fall, good ad for Karrimor Alpinistes). The glacier had receded since our guide was written and we had to descend around 100ft of nearly vertical biscuit above an open bergschrund. We threw the sacks down to make it easier and my partner's went into a crevasse. I had to climb in to fetch it. With all the faff the couloir down from the glacier to the path was getting lethal stonefall by the time we got to it, so we had to reclimb one of the morning's summits to get off safely. Graham also left his sunglasses off for a while and got snowblind. I had a great day but his left something to be desired!
PS. Just looked at your pic of the East Face in 2010 from the Torre de GSP. Brings home how much snow and ice has disappeared since 1986.
Post edited at 16:00
MG - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

> Isn't the Grivola a brilliant hill! Where was your route? Did the traverse of it in 1986, up over the minor peaks just south,

Ah interesting. We climbed the ENE ridge from the Balzola hut (brilliant!) and tried to come down the S ridge towards the VS hut (the way you ascended?). We got lost, it got dark, we decided to descend the E Face but further S than the normal route. This was slow, the ab rope stuck etc etc. We got down and wondered if it was a new route but it turns out it was ascended by Tuckett in 1850 something just prior to the first successful ascent. I since went back to Punta Blanca (one of your minor summits) and can not for life of me see how we got so lost - we were one 30m from easy ground!
Iain Thow - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to MG:

Hindsight's always 20/20, isn't it. And everyone should have the odd epic occasionally.
wilkie14c - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:
The classic rock Great Gully for me, great fun in good dry conditions complete with a rotting sheep belay. A bit of cheeky aid helped us keep good time and the sting in the tail right at the top, wow!
We started the day doing amphitheatre buttress, nice route but extremely dangerous down climb back to the start of the route I thought.
Although not exactly routes as such, Snakes and ladders including the bridge of death was a blast as was the serious rossid (sic) through trip
Post edited at 16:06
spenser - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

Best obscure route I've done would have to be Scared to Dance (E1 5b), the moves are pretty good, the gear sparse (5 pieces in the whole route, all small), the routefinding a bit of a challenge and the belay provided some amusement (described as "Belay of the year" by my friend and not for quality, only the comedy value of having to use a spare ab rope to build the belay!).
Si dH - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:
This inspired me to look back through most of the trad routes in my logbook, which always brings back good memories, thanks
Unfortunately I found that of the routes in there that I think qualify as truely obscure, I can't actually remember anything about! In one case I can't even remember ever visiting the crag. I'm only 32...

So nothing brilliant to put forward, but memorable mentions, for boldness rather than quality, go to Megaton (E1 5a) and Brother's Eliminate (E1 5b).
Post edited at 18:48
mike lawrence? - on 18 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

I think a lot of the big mountain cliffs nowadays have loads of obscure routes that are fantastic but never get done as people just do the well known ones. The best 3 I've done on Cloggy have been Brwynog Chimney Brwynog Chimney (V), one of the earliest extremes in Britain, the superb and easy top pitch of Easy Rider Easy Rider (HVS 5a) but the best was the top two pitches of Gargoyle Gargoyle (HVS 5a) which would be an absolutely fabulous climb if clean. I bet Scafell must have loads of great routes that get done once a decade at most.

great idea for a thread!

mike
deepstar - on 18 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

Crumble (HS) In Leigh Woods on the Somerset side of Avon Gorge is pretty obscure but well worth the effort. The old guidebook gives it V.Diff but more realistically the grade is about V.S 4b.
Iain Thow - on 18 Jan 2017
In reply to mike lawrence?:

There are noticeably fewer people on the mountain cliffs compared with 20 years ago. I regularly go past Sron na Ciche in the Cuillin and rarely see anyone climbing, even at weekends. When there is someone they're always on one of half a dozen routes. Just checked and Direct Route (S 4a) hasn't been logged for over 2 years, and Median (VD) has only 2 logs since 2013. Both are excellent and used to be popular.
Iain Thow - on 18 Jan 2017
In reply to deepstar:

Just looked at the pics of Crumble. Looks great!
harold walmsley - on 18 Jan 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:
Not sure if its the best but my most recent nice surprise was [Bucket Rider (E1 5b) [ Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog). No stars on UKC, one in the guide, unprepossessing to look at from below but I thought it was superb to climb.
Post edited at 22:06
Just Another Dave - on 02 Feb 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

Probably The Prisoner E1 5b in Nant Gwtheyrn Quarry, Pen Llyn north coast between the Eifl and Craig Y Llam. Crag's not in the database. Superb finger crack.

Honourable mentions to:
My brother's The Sheridan E3 5c on the same crag and his Burning Bush E5 6a in No. 2 quarry, Ty'n Tywyn.
And my own Duck Liver Pate VS 5a at Gwylwyr Quarry.

Not quite so obscure: everything at Trwyn Maen Melyn, and Prodigal's Return at Pen-Y-Cîl.
mrphilipoldham - on 02 Feb 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

I'm going to go and do that as soon as we have a couple of dry days. I've a fast growing fondness of all things Kinder..
In reply to Just Another Dave:

Prodigal's Return is fantastic isn't it, well worth the visit - maybe the best E1 on the Lleyn?

Never did get round to doing Burning Bush, but did do Pat Littlejohn's Microcosm at the same crag, which lacks the majesty of BB but makes up for it in it's unrelenting steepness & thuggery.

The Lleyn is filled with so many high quality (and low quality) obscure routes though, sure there's an article in it somewhere...



Mick Ward - on 02 Feb 2017
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Now you're talking! We just need to find someone who's done loads of stuff and managed to stay alive to tell us all about it. Adventure guaranteed...

Mick
Sean Kelly - on 02 Feb 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

Not sure it's that obscure but it is a little out of the way. Matchless (E1 5b)
Big Ger - on 02 Feb 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

Midships on Porth Naven, on a top rope.
Just Another Dave - on 03 Feb 2017
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

> Prodigal's Return is fantastic isn't it, well worth the visit - maybe the best E1 on the Lleyn?
Well maybe...

> Never did get round to doing Burning Bush, but did do Pat Littlejohn's Microcosm at the same crag, which lacks the majesty of BB but makes up for it in it's unrelenting steepness & thuggery.

Microcosm is an impressive little piece of juggery indeed. Littlejohn later had a look at the line of Burning Bush (probably c. 1998), noted some cleaning and a peg and asked around, but couldn't find an account of an ascent. So claimed it as FA. He'd missed that my brother Jo had already written it up in Pete's Eats logbook. Some correspondence ensued, and PL conceded with his compliments and congratulations on such an excellent find!

mikeski - on 03 Feb 2017
In reply to Sean Kelly:

More than a match is fantastic as well.

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