UKC

What makes a good route?

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 edhawk21 10 Jan 2017
What in your guys opinion makes a great route? difficulty? ease of protection? position?
Obviously its a combination of these things but in what ratio? and do you sometimes enjoy the challenge of poorly protected stuff?
 Aly 10 Jan 2017
In reply to edhawk21:

The golden ration is 6 : 3 : 1 : 4 : 8
And it's got to be on grit.
 zimpara 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Aly:

Sand bagged by atleast 2 full grades
6
 Dogwatch 10 Jan 2017
Polish. Well it must be, all great routes are polished.

 Hat Dude 10 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

> Sand bagged by at least 2 full grades

Can't be HVD then
 GrahamD 10 Jan 2017
In reply to edhawk21:

No bolts, obviously
4
 gribble 10 Jan 2017
In reply to edhawk21:

Jamming. Lots of it!
 JJL 10 Jan 2017
In reply to Aly:

1. Varied climbing
2. History
3. Setting
4. Consistency of climbing
5. Sound rock
6. Consistency of protection (be it none, spaced, or bolts)
7. Just about climbable by me
In reply to edhawk21:

Great setting
Great line/rock architecture
Continually interesting moves
Sustained
 Fredt 10 Jan 2017
In reply to edhawk21:

Your partner.
 DerwentDiluted 10 Jan 2017
In reply to edhawk21:

Some one I used to climb with eons ago reckoned that the key to a good route was the distance from which the line could be seen and desired from. Think of the view to High neb buttress on stanage from Miles away, the soaring Millstone aretes from Hathersage, the lines on the Cromlech from the pass and Cioch nose in Applecross. In short, if a line looks compelling from over a mile away, its unlikely to disappoint.
 alan moore 10 Jan 2017
In reply to edhawk21:

A couple of pitches.
A big runout.
Some slabby bits.
Some steep juggy bits.
A legendary first ascentionist.
An interesting setting
Some rock.
 Pbob 10 Jan 2017
In reply to edhawk21:

An easy walk off to a good pub

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