/ Camp NanoWire for Sport?

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Luke_G - on 11 Jan 2017
Hi,

I'm looking to upgrade my old quickdraws (and a bunch of other gear) on my rack, and would like to go light light light!

The lightest quickdraw I can see is the Camp NanoWire quickdraw. Does anybody have any experience/advice as to whether this would be suitable for Sport Climbing? I know they are smaller but haven't seen them first hand - are they easy enough to handle? They are marketed for long alpine routes.

If you don't think this is suitable - which ones would you go for and why?

Cheers


1
zimpara - on 11 Jan 2017
Luke_G - on 11 Jan 2017
In reply to zimpara:

Thanks, do you have any recommendations? The Singing rock Visions seem good value for money at 45 squids, 75g each....

http://www.rockrun.com/rock-climbing/hardware/quickdraws/singing-rock-vision-quickdraw-5-pack
wbo - on 11 Jan 2017
In reply to Luke_G:
I've been using Petzl ange for everything and seem to get by. Not perfect, but usable. That said, if I were setting up from scratch I'd likely get DMM alpha wire gates all the way through
Post edited at 19:20
HeMa on 11 Jan 2017
In reply to Luke_G:

For mellow long sport, I'm sure the Nano is more than good enough.

How ever, on a desperate redpoint project, or hangdoggin' session, you'll prolly want the biggest and easiest to clip biners, with thick draws (so easier to hangdog and check out the next moves). I've been rather happy with Petzl Spirits, and they seem to be benchmark there days. Sure WC Protons and DMM offerings might be on UK climbers rack.

That said, Ocun and others make almost as good QDs/biners at a lot cheaper price.

My sport draws are old (but still keylock) BD Positrons, which can be had for peanuts. I've swapped about half of the draws to 17 and a few to 25cm Petzl Spirit draws. Seems to work out just fine. Not light though, but then again when compared to a proper rack, a few weighter QDs are still a lot lighter.
AlanLittle - on 11 Jan 2017
In reply to Luke_G:

Why would you want light for sport climbing? You'll usually have them pre-hung on serious redpoint attempts and ease of clipping & grabbing are the crucial attributes.

I'm very happy with Petzl Djinns, and they're a bit cheaper than the industry standard Spirits.
zimpara - on 11 Jan 2017
In reply to Luke_G:

I use Mammut wall express. Go outdoors have them at £48 for 5 set right now.

They are lightweight and a good size
Si dH - on 11 Jan 2017
In reply to Luke_G:
On any hard sport route the priority for me is something with a nice fat bent gate that is really easy to clip in a hard position. Light weight is relatively unimportant. If you were much better at clipping fast than me and were onsighting long euro routes rather than redpointing, then I could see an argument for a lightweight set of wiregates, but a camp nano feels a step too far.
Post edited at 22:05
thebigfriendlymoose - on 11 Jan 2017
In reply to Si dH:

+1 to the above, in my opinion, Nanos and similar are for desperate alpine / trad. For sport, unless you purely on-sight at a very high level (in which case, why are you a sport climber, and why would you be asking for advice from randoms?!), my own priorities are robustness, ease of clipping, and "clean" noses for ease of removal from bolts when cleaning routes. Nanos seem to fail on every one of those criteria. Personally, I would be looking at DMM Alphas, Petz Spirits, or WC Protons for sport climbing draws, maybe lighter / cheaper alternatives if I was planning on lots of trips abroad with low luggage allowances.
zimpara - on 11 Jan 2017
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

Save weight, only clip every second bolt and take half as many draws.
Simple
4
Zebdi - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

+1. I'd only add Camp Orbit Express to that list of quickdraws. Meets all of the above criteria and the price is very decent, too.
tjin - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to Luke_G:

I think the lightest option is the Edelrid nineteen g quickdraw... Tiny and personally would think it would be way too small.
ads.ukclimbing.com
GridNorth - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to Luke_G:
I use DMM Shadows with the black nylon slings for sport because ease of clipping is more important than weight. For trad I use DMM Phantoms because weight is more important than ease of clipping. If I was buying now I would probably go for the Alpha's for sport.

Al
Post edited at 12:39

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