/ Horizon gets a second repeat.

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stp - on 14 Jan 2017

by japanese climber Daisuke Ichimiya who I've never heard of. The japanese seem to have a real depth of talent these days.

http://onbouldering.com/daisuke-ichimiya-repeats-horizon-v15-8c/

How many Brits have climbed 8c? I can only think of one person.
Post edited at 12:14
Offwidth - on 14 Jan 2017
In reply to stp:

Really? only one from the UKC performance superfan?? Dave Macleod, John Gaskins, Dan Varian, Ned Feehally, Simon Newstead, Dave Barrans, Mike Adams, Micky Page, Sam Davenhall from a old list of contenders probably a few more now.
4
jpalmieri - on 14 Jan 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

Could be wrong but i think your list contains just one 8C boulderer. Ned.
planetmarshall on 14 Jan 2017
In reply to jpalmieri:

> Could be wrong but i think your list contains just one 8C boulderer. Ned.

This should count, surely?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/70430/practice_of_the_wild_8c_by_dave_macleod
jpalmieri - on 14 Jan 2017
In reply to planetmarshall:

Yeah it should, my mistake sorry. When i saw his name i forgot about practice and thought of new base line which used to be 8C but is now regarded as 8B+.

Just noticed Mike Adams on the list too who has also done one. Obviously wasn't thinking when i posted.
Ron Rees Davies - on 14 Jan 2017
In reply to stp:

> How many Brits have climbed 8c? I can only think of one person.

Zimpara's done a grit HVD, does that count?
Offwidth - on 14 Jan 2017
In reply to jpalmieri:

My view is the 8C grade band as it relates to specific problems probably won't be fully settled for decades. Thats why I said contenders. They have all climbed problems given 8C or hard 8B+. Most of these top boulderers in the UK have displayed caution and modesty.

UKB used to have a list but the link seems broken.
jpalmieri - on 14 Jan 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

Yeah that's fair enough, still not sure about everyone on that list though.

The Ukb link is pretty incomplete nowadays i think.

http://ukbouldering.wikia.com/wiki/UK_Cream_of_the_Crop

Pretty sure a more up to date thread exists on there though.
Offwidth - on 14 Jan 2017
In reply to jpalmieri:

That was the link I wanted to include ... not sure why it wasn't working for me before. It's also missing Gaskins (and before some muppet complains yes I know about all the controversy around some his hardest ascents... I said contenders not confirmed 8C)
stp - on 15 Jan 2017
In reply to Offwidth:
You forgot Chris Doyle: Final Cut in Parasellas. That's got to be a very strong contender given it's location and it's link up of known and established problems.

But I don't think it's relevant to say what's going to be what decades in the future. With the inevitable grade slippage that might be many of the folk who have only climbed 8b in today's grading.

Unrepeated problems are going to be a bit suspect, unless they've received a lot of attention by capable climbers, because new sequences are often found. Not saying they shouldn't count though.

Maybe a better question would be has anyone done more than one? Horizon was this guy's third.
Post edited at 11:24
Offwidth - on 15 Jan 2017
In reply to stp:
Its not really about grade slippage its about UK comparative modesty. I'm sure quite a few 8C overseas problems might be downgraded by applying the same average opinions. Most top end grade drops seem to me to be about finding easier methods than the FA rather than incorrect grades for their sequence.

It takes time before such things at the very top settle. Asking such simplistic questions is part of the problem. Either we talk about contenders in comparison to success on Horizon or we don't bother. For true depth of talent look at how many Brits have climbed 8B on that (out of date) link.

If you are talking about Daisuke Ichimiya you are talking about one of the worlds very top talents not Japan's strength in depth (even though it does have that).
Post edited at 11:40
Offwidth - on 15 Jan 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

On the subject of world class status this list might interest people... only came across it recently.

https://www.99boulders.com/hardest-boulder-problems
jpalmieri - on 15 Jan 2017
In reply to stp:

Chris' link is very hard but i'm sure he'd tell you it wasn't anywhere near 8C boulder. Maybe low end 8B at a guess?
stp - on 15 Jan 2017
In reply to jpalmieri:

Thanks for clearing up the confusion. Hadn't realised that was a route grade rather than a font one.
stp - on 15 Jan 2017
In reply to jpalmieri:

Just checked the UKC news and it says:

Chris Doyle has linked Director's Cut 8B into Almost Familiar 7c to create Final Cut 8c at Parisella's Cave, North Wales.

I obviously missed subtle change of case there. Not the clearest way of grading stuff. The prefix 'f' stands out much better.
1
stp - on 15 Jan 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

Seems like I'm shit for being 'the UKC performance superfan' and doubly so for not knowing as much as you. Sometimes it seems like you just can't do or say anything right.
Offwidth - on 15 Jan 2017
In reply to stp:

Nothing like shit... I always appreciate your threads... I'm just a bit surprised and I have some differences of view on the detail.
leewil86 - on 31 Jan 2017
In reply to stp:

Just out of interest is there any videos of anyone climbing it ..usually dai koyamada films quite a bit it would be kool to see.
stp - on 07 Feb 2017
In reply to leewil86:

I've definitely seen one of Ashima on it somewhere but maybe it's just on Reel Rock 11 and not online...
outtathaway - on 07 Feb 2017
In reply to stp:

Tyler Landman I think too.

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