UKC

Hi,
Not sure if the title is suitable but later this year in October I will be attempting Pokalde at 5806m,Island Peak at 6189m and Lobuje East at 6145m Himalayas.

this is my first attempt at a long expedition and highest summit I personally have done, I have a few questions and hopefully you guys can help me. the main one is with my boots.

I have been looking at a few boots the La Sportiva Nepal Extremes, the Lasportiva GM SM and the scarpa 6000m.

I have future plans to continue climbing in the alps and Scotland as well, so the question is would and these be suitable for what I require, it may be the case that the sportiva Gm and the scarpa 6000m may be overkill for the alps and Scotland but the Nepal's may not be good enough for my planned trip.

hopefully this is clear and hope for a response

Thanks

James

In reply to Jamesrlee:

I've been up to 6500m in Nepal extremes in south America a few times. Warmth can be boosted by additional insoles, yeti gaiters (think there may be insulated gaiters you can get now?) and thick socks. Another tip is to make sure they are warm when you put them on, mine go in the end of my sleeping bag with my toes in them, I left them in the porch once and trying to warm them from -15 by wearing them is not recommended.

I've swapped the Nepal's for nepal cubes now and would recommend them instead.

In reply to jonnie3430:
Thanks

I tried on some cubes today and I preferred them to the extremes, but from looking around some people have said they are not the best for longer trips, but with lots off things that's just another opinion, and the leaving the boots in the bottom off my sleeping bag is a tip I will remember after I left mine in the cold, I have done it ever since

In reply to Jamesrlee:
I have some Scarpa Vegas I'm looking to sell. Perfect for 6000m plus. Only used on 1 trip to the Himalayas in October 16 and even then only for 4 days on way up to and down from the summit from camp 1. Email me if you are interested.
Size 44.

In reply to Gone for good:

ah that's sucks not my size sorry

In reply to Jamesrlee:



I would say that is exactly the case.

It really depends on you, your feet and a few other variables, like the weather at the time etc, but you can get away with Nepal Extremes at those kinds of heights, as you don't have very snowy high camps, but the early frozen start is still an issue.

People get away with all sorts of things up to 7000m (I got overtaken on Aconcagua at 6600m by a young guy wearing Sportiva Trango S boots) but it's always a risk and again, depends on the individual - and accepting the risk that you might wreck your trip with insufficient boots. Personally I wouldn't risk it and if you think you'll never climb high again, hire or borrow or get 2nd hand double boots for the three days of high climbing in the Khumbu and buy Nepal Cubes for your alpine and Scottish climbing.

In reply to jonnie3430:


I wore Nepal Extremes a lot, but never to altitude, only for lower technical stuff. I could never have fitted extra insoles and extra thick socks in mine. If there had been room for such they would not have fitted properly at sea level. Yeti gaiters don't insulate the underside of the boot, where the heat is lost, so don't help much, though the ones with the insulated uppers help a little for the ankle and lower leg - but they're extra faff and weight for just three days of high climbing on a three-week trip.

In reply to Damo: +1
Before I knew better I wore somewhat oversized LS Nepal Extremes for 3 6000m+ peaks in Nepal in november. It was very cold and I wouldnt risk it again. Started to climb ice later on with the same boot, it was horrible. Heel lift from hell! (I sold them)
If youre doing the normal routes a cheap scarpa Vega/Alpha for the summit days would be perfect. Probably possible to rent in Ktm as well unless huge feet?

In reply to Jamesrlee:

What Damo said!
Get some SH or better still hire some good double boots for your Himalayan trip, advantage of double boots is you take the inner's out and put then in your bag overnight, not the whole boot, that way there's still room in the bag and you don't get it covered in dirt! Also remember cold is not always about the temperature, its also about the altitude and how well you are acclimatized. Extremes and cubes are great for the European stuff by the way!

In reply to Jamesrlee:
Having just read the above and agreeing with the double boots idea it occurs to me that lots of people on here probably have a pair of vegas sitting around that, although they probably won't use again , they just don't want to part with ? Mine have high altitude liners , they are in storage but I think are uk 7.5. You are welcome to borrow them if they are your size . I would recommend doing to some plodding in scotland to get used to them before going on your trip. If they are not your size then I bet a post on here would get you some .

Wow Thanks for the Responses.

Mike I will contact you about the boots as I tried a pair on in that size and that would help me a lot as I have only just started building my kit.

so, from everyone's comments I think the double boots is what I need but for the three days of summits it may be best to borrow/ rent a pair before I commit to buying some, and that I should invest in some cubes or extremes for the Alps and Scotland. I also intend to try some more technical Stuff and they will work for that too.

If this doesn't work or someone would suggest better then feel free to, as that would help me a lot

Thanks

In reply to Jamesrlee:
Great. Message me via here . I have to go my storage unit at some point this week , I will check the size . Willing to bet I have an old pair of crampons (points will be worn but serviceable ) that will fit to, although the ones you get for your new boots will probably fit. I'll have a look.

In reply to Jamesrlee:

Depending on your size you could get the Vega's new for £150.

In reply to Jamesrlee:

I'm looking into a similar trek/climb at the moment and my plan was to go for something like the La Spotiva Spantik, fit dependent of course, with the plan of using them for Alpine winter and other high altitude treks/climbs. Needlesports had them in for a very good price only a few weeks ago.

You can also hire double boots in the UK, http://www.expeditionkithire.co.uk/ not used them personally but could be worth a try.