UKC

not sure who was down to kick off Fitclub this week, but here is a place holder so any keen beans can get posting straight away.

In reply to hms:

Sorry, being slow!!!

A very good evening to all fit club posters- the old timers and new joiners alike. This week is brought you by the first training video in a series by Lattice training on EpicTV: http://www.epictv.co.uk/media/podcast/lattice-training-the-20-minute-endura...

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

Last week’s thread can be found here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=656276&v=1
The 2016 roundup thread can be found here (we must just about be at last orders for new year goals by now?): http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=655705

Posters:

Zimpara- welcome along, looking forward to training update video #2. Is Denali the definite goal? West Butress?
AJM - Did you get in plenty of last minute training pre BabyClub membership?
HMS: Ooh yeah that sounds hard. 8a at 50- inspiring goal, and sounds like you are giving it the best possible chance with the training!
Guy127917- You are a dumbbell
Bobling - Awesome to hear people enjoying running, it’s supposed to be fun!
Biscuit - So is your plan for next comp to save some easier ones for the end of the session? It seems sensible but also slightly risky if your route reading isn’t up to scratch.
Si dH - Sounds like a pretty solid week, but… warm up properly!
HumptyDumpty - Big Goals! Looking forward to hearing a summary of the training plan as the year develops.
Richard Popp - Yeah it sounds good, consistently pushing core work will definitely be beneficial.
The Sheep - Are you pacing the runs or just doing whatever feels ‘right’ at the time?
DanDan - Inspiring stuff. So what is the Lattice low down on rest days (i.e. you have none in a week… even as a highly conditioned athlete surely you need some rest some time?)
Jen Jones - You’re a gorilla board.
TonyB - Thanks for the long update, good to hear about your attitude toward grades changing- really inspiring for less experienced climbers like me.
LeeBoy - To lose 1kg in a week you need a 1100 calorie deficit a day, are you really training with that kind of calorie deficit?
Hokkyo - If you’re feeling low, run 13.1. Doing something every day is a good goal to get back in the flow! How did it go?
The Ex-Engineer - For front levers- where are you now and what progressions are you doing?
TheFasting - You sound psyched, and it sounds like it paying off
Just TinTin- Thats a lotta latte! Sounds like a productive trip!
MattRM - I imagine you will see a big endurance improvement if you can get 2 sessions in a week (sounds like you have stuff on though)
Tyler - whats your next goal?

In reply to guy127917:

Not really, no. The week was a bit manic at work (I don't think I started after 0715 all week and Thursday was barely after 6) which wiped me out - with my glass half full view I tried to see as a good opportunity to rest my niggles and aches.

However, the Cuttings clearance day yesterday, whilst enormously productive, definitely stressed the shoulder out again. Feeling worked generally, but the right shoulder is also feeling sore.

So basically the crag clearance day and the very last wood cutting and splitting from the hedge (this is a Big Deal ). The shoulder was fine with finger boarding last time and the biceps and wrist are feeling fine so fingers crossed for next week....

In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy, similar to the last, I think this week went pretty well in terms of motivation for diet and training. Again however I didn't get out due to crap weather on the day I had free (today) and have had elbow issues.

2016/17 winter goals (by end of February):

- Reduce weight (measured on a Sunday night) back to 11st 0lb
- Do a few grit f7Bs (particularly keen for Suavito, Jerry's Traverse and Spare Rib, but keeping this flexible - so far done Jerry's Traverse)
- Tetris (f7C)

2017 early spring goals (by end of April):

- Do lots of Font 7s in our trip in early March (target of 10+)
- Do Eastwood Traverse
- Try Powerband

M: Fingerboard. Decided to try something new in the form of weighted 5s on / 5s off repeaters (rather than either 7on/3off or max hangs). The aim in theory is to work on strength but hopefully get a bit of forearm hypertrophy rather than just recruitment, with the idea that this will increase the max gains I can then get from max hangs for recruitment in future. Even if the science is bollocks, I reckon a few weeks of something different should be a good thing. I did 4 sets of 6 reps on an 18mm edge with bodyweight +14 kg, resting 3-4 minutes between sets. I then did the same on my cellar ceiling pinches, with a wide grip so I can engage shoulders a bit, to train both pinch strength and opoosing shoulder strength simultaneously. This is necessary for Font prows! I rested 10 seconds between reps on the pinches though as it was harder.
T: Shattered after long day at work, so rest.
W: Woke up early and felt more motivated, so did Tuesday's planned Fingerboard session! As per Monday but one set less of each.
T: Evening session at The Climbing Unit. Quite a long session and felt like I was trying hard quite a bit, but suspect I was actually a bit weak, and was struggling with my elbow again - needed really long rests between attempts on anything hardish.
F: rest. Listened to the recent trainingbeta podcast with Esther Smith on elbows. Realised that I have been treating an acute injury (I know exactly when it happened just after Christmas after 2-3 years of no problem) as if it was the same problem as the chronic golfers tendonosis I had a few years ago. I haven't actually really rested it at all and have been doing too much intense rehab. So from this point I'm going to row back on the rehab a bit and rest it more for a couple of weeks, which may well fix it. I also noted that she recommended fingerboarding with elbows essentially unbent, which I'm going to try for a while. I usually vary all my fingerboarding between straight, 120 deg, 90 deg and deep lock positions and I know I'm prone to chicken winging as I get tired on smaller holds, so I'm going to stick to straight arms and just maximum shoulder engagement for a while. Also I should probably avoid that pinch grip exercise for the most part.
S: rest (in-laws' visit for delayed 'fake Christmas', with full-on roast etc. Managed to have a good time without splurging tooo much, which was good.)
S: Did half a Fingerboard session. Basically the first half of Monday's session, 4 sets on the 18mm edge. Whether it was 2 days' rest, keeping straight armed or some early adaptation to the exercise I don't know, but I felt way stronger than a few days ago and could have added more weight. Which is nice

Injury catalogue: Heel continuing to heal, still not well enough to walk a long way without any gel pads in my shoes, but now painless to drop on to a pad. Left shoulder rotator cuff ok this week with some rehab. Minor grumble in my left middle two somewhere when open handing (caused by hard hangs on the ceiling pinches), but it feels manageable. Left elbow issues ongoing, see Friday report above. No pain during/after today's fingerboarding fortunately.

Weight last night Sunday night was 11 st 4 lb. Continued dieting pretty well this week, managed 11 st 2 on Thursday and Friday nights. On that trajectory I should hit my target in another week, but in practice I think the improvements now will slow down a lot.

(Guy, 1 kg a week definitely does not require as much as an 1100 kcal defecit, I've never even approached that sort of level.)

Plan for this week is to go easy to continue to rest the elbow, probably just one or two more short Fingerboard sessions like today.

Si

Edit: the other thing I did this week was ask for a TRX as a birthday present...

In reply to Si dH:

Well yeah, a kilo of fat does though (ish). I assume that's what people mean when they want to lose weight (maybe incorrectly). I wouldn't take it too literally, point was more that a kilo is a lot to actually lose in 7 days, although 1 seems like a small number. Humans love round numbers for whatever reason, and also setting/making goals.

In reply to guy127917:
1 kg (or about 2 lbs) is easily losable in a week if you are strict with what you eat, and also in parallel with some limited training. Not week after week - but for 2-3 weeks if you are above your 'usual' ideal weight, definitely. I never do calorie defecits of more than 2-300 kcal per day at most.

Interesting video by the way. I had thought the 1 minute on/off (aeropow?) routine was intended to be similar in effect to foot on campusing, ie maximising level of pump by the end such that by that point you are approaching failure, but they are pitching the difficulty a bit lower.

Ps I know you are right about the fat thing if you look up how many kcal are in a kilo of lard and divide it by 7. But it just doesn't seem to work like that...

In reply to guy127917:


Thanks, guy - I'm also looking forward to reading the training plan once I've written it! I've signed up for a half marathon in 4 weeks, which will be the first organised or timed race I've done, at least since I were at school. I'll be pleased if I finish

Short Term Goals (end of March):
- left side traverse problem
- run/yoga/theraband/frying Pan/one-leg squats each 3 times weekly
- make a proper training plan
- don't get injured

Medium Term Goals (end of June):
- learn to cook lentil curry that tastes nice
- try bouldering
- one armed pull-up
- learn to climb overhanging stuff
- don't get injured

Long Term Goals (2017):
- RP 8a (Kaly)
- Traveserra dels Gossos
- http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1818 in a weekend
- don't get injured

M - bike (40 min)
T - run (65 mins; some rests); bike (40 min); yoga (90 mins)
W - bike (40 min); wall (30 min); theraband
T - run (65 mins; some walks); bike (40 min)
F - bike (30 mins); run (30 mins); pull-ups (30/9/4/0|3); press-ups (50)
S - nothing
S - wall (30 mins); theraband; press-ups (50); bike (40 mins)

In reply to Si dH:

I do agree with you there, and some of it will be genuine weight loss (fat and muscle)- but my belief with that is it's mainly different levels of hydration, glycogen load and food in the gut. I think as/if you can consolidate at the lower weight for a few weeks your body composition will adjust accordingly (and likewise if you are above your usual weight and coming back I guess- it might not be fat that is making you heavier... yet). These are my "slightly informed" opinions and should not be taken by anyone as fact (ie like everyone I have read some things and tried some things)

I used to do jiujitsu/MMA and would cut about 5kg before a competition- from my weight now (83kg) down to 78kg. Mainly by eating cleanly for about 4 weeks before, upping the cardio a bit, and then crash dieting/not drinking/running in a sweat suit the day before. Walking onto the mat, I'd be back at 81kg at least, and generally not too worse for wear.

In reply to hms:

Evening FitClub. Pretty good week for me with activity most days. Really feeling the month I took off over Christmas though. Went for longest run for ages - 7k in 45 mins. I used to do 10ks in 45 mins! However I need to make sure I do not try to do too much too soon else I will end up re-injured. Lots of stretching, warming up and warming down please!

Climbing - I'm at that point in wnter when you long for a summer evening on warm rock! Need to try to get out soon but life just keeps getting in the way.

Mon - Redpoint. 10 routes up to 6b. Need to work on endurance and overhangs.
Tues - Nothing
Weds - Run back from work, 3.5k
Thurs - P45, S46. Foam rollering on calves, shins and ITB. Stretches.
Fri - Nothing
Sat - P45, S48 Foam rollered calves, ITB.
Sun - Run (Willsbridge & back), 7k, 44.11m. Foam rollered calves & ITB.

Weight: 73.30 (-0.75)
Injury report:Left calf stiff. Hence lots of foam rollering and stretching...Exercises - press-ups, sit sups, one leg stands leg in front, one leg stands leg behind, squat stance, use foam roller.

New Goals:
Short Term (through to February 2017). Press -ups - 50 in 2 mins. Sit-ups 55 in 2 min. Flash 6b at the wall. Try to hit 10k run without injuring myself. Get outside at least once a month.

Medium Term (before September 2017): Unknown Wall at Avon, The other Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe, Osiris at Fall Bay, Tons in Pembs, Tons at Chair Ladder, LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi, Freedom at Wintours. Run a 10k again. Tick 3 more classic rock routes.

Long Term : I'd love to run a marathon! The Cuillin Ridge, DoWH, Cenotaph Corner.

In reply to hms:
thanks Guy. And apologies for stepping in when you evidently had everything perfectly under control!

M - cycle commute. Yoga in evening.
T - taking D2 back to university, so I now have an empty nest. Max hangs when I got home, which went badly. Don't know if it was the busy day, having a main meal at lunchtime or what, but struggled on +15kg. Wrist curls afterwards.
W - cycle commute. S&C plus rehab & stretching.
T - cycle commute. UCR in evening, doing 10min on, 10 min off x 3 on routes. The pace is a tad too leisurely by the time H has faffed about moving the rope out of everyone's way, not let me start until I'm on belay although it's a bit academic before the 1st clip etc. Also did 1/2 dozen routes up to 7a afterwards, and tried the new upstairs circuits - only 2 set so far, 6a if that and possibly 6b+.
F - drove to work then on to TCA. On the minute bouldering on v2-v4 so reds minus the horror-show ones, plus some harder end yellows and 1 easy green. Good session.
S - fingers were feeling very unhappy after the last 2 days, so took this as a rest day. Lots of shoulder rehab too, plus sit-ups with +7kg (40) and press-ups (still girly ones - genuine article the 'up' part of the press-up is a struggle)
S - UCR. 1/2 dozen routes to warm-up then doubles on 7a x 6. The available 7a routes are in short supply. Typically I could top the 1st of the pair but was spat off at the first power move on the second.

Need to refine the 6 doubles. Problem is that UCR route setting has gone down the pan, so straight forward no silliness training routes almost don't exist. Think maybe I need to go to Redpoint instead but it's a pain to get to in the evenings and gets really busy.

In reply to hms:


Might be worth tracking total weight rather than added weight to correct for the large lunch factor?

In reply to guy127917:

Double update from me after being away on holibobs for a week.

Week 2:
M - Bank holiday lie-in, couple of miles local walk, then cave lamplight session. Felt very heavy and sluggish. Eventually got my lardy carcass across cave life. Worked two new problems, HWL & In Life; doing all the moves and some short links, both will be fun training exercises... Minor elbow aches whilst driving home. More eccentrics and flossing needed.
T - I tried doing some hangs after warming up, but +48kg/10s felt nails and I just wasn’t feeling it. 3x10OHP@35kg and some stretching, then started feeling ill, explaining the earlier lethargy.
W - Felt grotty at work, which was compounded by 3.5hrs house cleaning/hidying that evening
T - Cave after work. Late one with lanterns, but good conditions at 3°C – brr! Too cold for the original idea of tying in and trying Familiar Cut (8a+) so got on with working my other potential cave project, Broken Trigger. I made some great progress; doing it in 3 overlapping chunks and working the thuggy technicalities for getting the starting holds of Trigger Cut without a massive slap. However, all this was done in shorts owing to the techy kneebarring, so I got pretty frickin’ cold! Minor elbow grumbles.
F - 10:3 an-cap hangs @60% Similar top end to previous week, but seeing improvements in where I level out. 12x 1on/1off aero-cap FoC session, then good meal and pre-holiday prosecco.
S - Travel – typical ski-holiday delays – damn French ATC!
S - Ski Day 1: 50km. Cloudy.

Week 3:
M - Ski Day 2: 60km. Great conditions up high on the glacier of La Plagne.
T - Ski Day 3: 60km. Cloudy/foggy, but some much needed fresh snow fall.
W - Ski Day 4: 70km with a smattering of powder if you were happy going through the “piste closed” signs
T - Ski Day 5: 80km. Trip over to Les Arcs. Decided to miss out the piste where I spangled my kidney 6 years ago, but bizarrely bumped into the same guy I was skiing with that day in a café!
F - Ski Day 6: 60km staying low in 15 inches of powder; especially “enjoyable” in the unpisted/closed black run where we both took a couple of falls due to skinny piste skis refusing to float.
S - Travel home. Even worse than going out – 11hours door to door with both coach & flight delays.
S - Cave of justice. Smeggiest I’ve seen it for years; pesky cappuccino! Still had a good work-out on 8A/+ (cheats) version of In Life (V12). Worked out the missing move and started RPs. Zero elbow grumbles for whole session. High-point matching & moving off wobbly block. 3x30 kneebar sit-ups which other cave-dwellers thought was ridiculous!

Weight down 1.5kg & 0.8% BF since NYD - now just clinically obese instead of morbidly so.

STG – next 2 weeks:
At least 4 further rehab sessions – eccentrics, armaid & nerve flossing/stretching to cement in the fix.
Cave RPs on In LIfe & Familiar Cut
Start lifting again
Stick to the plan

MTG – end of Feb:
Stick to the plan; long an-cap & aero-power, then taper
Record FoC & Lattice benchmarks in same week before Chulilla trip

LTG – end 2017:
Climb >8a on 2 new rock-types; slate & conglomerate (or grit traverse?)
Put extra bolt in Malham route – Baba O’Riley, and investigate other FA options
8b in Chulilla in Feb/Mar
8A/+ in the cave: Broken Trigger, In Life or The Wire
The Traverse of the Gods.
Kilnsey Project(s).
Bonuses: Malham project(?), Gorge project(s), Tor link-up project, The Brute.

In reply to guy127917:


Cheers, just taking it as it comes at the mo, only got started at the beginning of November so just seeing what i can do. Most immediate goal is to clock 10km, then see if I can go sub 25mins for the 5k and sub 60 for the 10k.

Also to add interest to swimming im trying to learn how to do tumble tuns. Which as a large bloke the wrong side of 40 with a dodgy back is no mean feat. Im sure the lifeguards almost pissed themselves laughing

Anyway last week went as follows;

Tuesday, 15.1km cycle to work. Very pleasant morning. 2km swim at lunch (no tumbles) and 25.9km ride home.

Wednesday, had the afternoon off to go to a meeting at the middle daughters school after pick up time so went out for a trail run with the wife before hand. 8.2km in 53 minutes. Bit slow but it was good muddy fun

Thursday, 1km in the pool with tumble turns, comedy gold! 8.6km run in the evening whilst the eldest daughter was at swim training. 52 minutes and a bit dissapointed it didnt snow.

Friday, 1km aging in the pool with tumbles, a slight improvement in technique and didnt push off into anyones feet this time. Result. Cycle home in the evening, 25.7km.

In reply to AJM:


Good suggestion, though sometimes, i just have off days with no apparent reason, see my post; +55kg one week, +48kg a struggle the following

In reply to Ally Smith:

Yes, a fair point, it just removes one variable (and for me I find it helpful in my head to seperate the training effort from current weight)

In reply to guy127917:


No worries, thanks for doing it.


It went well, not only did I manage to exercise every day, I managed a run every day. 8 days on the trot, so far, something I've never managed before. I'm taking it pretty easy though, not pushing the pace much, apart from the odd km here and there.

m - 5.7km run
t - 10km cycling, 5km run
w - 7km run
t - 5km run
f - 5km run
s - 5.5km run
s - 7.2 km run

Feeling a bit sore and stiff today, so not sure I can keep up the running every day. But I've got some pilates scheduled tonight that will help, I think. Not doing so well with the weight, my seven day average on sunday was 83.5kg.

STG - exercise every day
MTG - lose weight

In reply to hms:

I'm not going to be able to do the fit club post for the next two weeks as will be in Scotland- any volunteers to take over?

In reply to guy127917:


I'll do it for 2 weeks, no worries.

In reply to Dandan:

Sweet, thanks Dan!

In reply to guy127917:


Cheers Guy,
The plan tends to have 'rest' weeks every 4 weeks or so where there will be 5 or less sessions so you can guarantee a few rest days. I'm assuming that the week following the Margalef trip in April will be a total rest, so you get a good reset a couple of times a year at least.

A decent week, I did skip one session due to life getting in the way but I plan to do it tonight instead. I did also do a general indoor route session that wasn't on the plan.

M: Indoor routes; doubles at 7b x6, need a harder route to do this on!
Core

T: Rest

W: Indoor boulder; continuity 3x8 min on 8 min off
Core

T: Indoor routes; Polarised continuity at 7a+/6a
Campus; 1-4-6-8 x2 leading with each arm. 2 sets. Assisted short one-arm hangs on small rungs, 2 sets

F: Rest (supposed to do 1 arm hangs on fingerboard but never had time)

S: Indoor routes; just messing about, 7a+ clean that had previously pumped me out, couple of goes on 8b, did it in 1 hang!
Fingerboard; 5/5 hangs on AA edge at +28kg, 2rm pull ups on 40mm edge at +54kg

S: Indoor boulder; weighted pull ups, horizontal low row and lever lift, all concentrating on perfect form, 3 reps 3 sets of each. Also max dynos, basically leaping about like an idiot for 3 sets, much fun.

The campus session midweek was very pleasing, I've been trying to recall any time in the past when I have done a proper hard session on the campus board and NOT come away with some kind of pain in the elbows. A thorough scouring of my distinctly patchy memory couldn't come up with anything, so this may be the first time ever that I have campussed hard with no elbow issues. I can only attribute it to conditioning, I've not found any miracle dure stretch of exercise, long may it continue is all I'm saying.

Routes session at the weekend was a refreshing change too, just mooching and climbing whatever I fancied was nice, I've not done that in ages. Getting up the 8b in 1 hang was awesome, especially as it was only my 3rd go at the route! A bit of tactical climbing and couple more goes at it would see it ticked I reckon.

I've got an idea for the biggest and hairiest of BHAG's, but I need to discuss with Tom before I start writing cheques that my fingers can't cash...

Last weeks STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session - TICK, this is pretty ingrained now
All sessions on plan - FAIL- missed one again, but will do Monday
No more elbow trouble - TICK, yay!

New STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session -
All sessions on plan -
Continue to not abuse elbows -

MTG: (next few months)
Re-test on the Lattice board, booked in for 1st Feb, hoping for 100 moves max
Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Going very well
8a on Lattice Trip in Feb
8a+
Pull on to Photo Shot (8b)

LTG: (next Year)
* 3 Holidays (already got Lattice trip in Feb and Margalef in April so this ones in the bag)
* tick 3 x 8a
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook)
* tick 8b (nothing wrong with some optimism)
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps)
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last

In reply to hms:
Had my first ice climbing course on saturday, and climbed 7 pitches in 7 hours (so slow). On the 8th I didn't make it up because I was so pumped I fell down from the axes (top-roped of course). It was a great experience, and I love climbing where I can make my own holds, hah. Next ice climbing trip is a weekend in Rjukan, the second part of the course.

Other than that I'm moving so I only had time for a really bad gym session where I pumped out even on the warm-ups that were 2 number grades easier than what I onsight. Just a bad day I guess. Did almost get to the top of the second-to-last n5+ I haven't done in my gym.

Today I still have sore forearms after the climbing on saturday, so remains to be seen how climbing this week will be.

Can link a few videos if people are interested, any feedback is welcome:

- https://www.instagram.com/p/BPQZPN4jByB/

- https://www.instagram.com/p/BPSG7-yjZxD/

- https://www.instagram.com/p/BPU0LEqD38r/

In reply to TheFasting:


You clumsy oaf!

- Lower your heels
- Make use of the features that are already there - old pick holes and beaten out foot ledges
- Some good technique tips here http://willgadd.com/x-vs-t-why-the-old-x-technique-is-inferior/

In reply to Ally Smith:
Hah, give me a break it was my 4th pitch or something!

The heels thing I was already a bit aware of when the video was taken. But I noticed that the others used the features more and lasted longer before their grip gave out. Noticed it a bit too late to try it out myself. I just kind of brute forced my way up there.

After this pitch the instructor told me to set the axes closer. I think I overdid it some after that by placing them directly over one another and that made it harder to remove the lower one.

In reply to Dandan:


Given the timeframe of a true bhag and what we know about your fingers, I trust this is like a 9a bhag...?

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy

1100 calories a day. Wow I eat that for breakfast . No I do really need to control my eating as I want to get back below 80kg again. To be honest a better goal for me would be to lose belly fat as I have it in excess from never really being into sports until I found climbing not long ago.

I am surprised with myself this week as I thought my goals were ambitious as I knew I was on a 60 hour working week but I managed to do everything apart from 1 training session which I was planning to do Saturday but really didn't feel like it so just took an extra rest day.

Last weeks goals

Eat correctly all week and weigh 80kg again - tick - I didn't really eat correctly but I was on my feet for 12 hours a day with an audit in work and managing a shift all week so I think I burnt quite a few calories by walking about 10 to 15+ miles a day
2 runs one long distance, 1 short and fast - Tick
Climb twice - Both sessions back to endurance - Tick
2 sessions of TFTNA conditioning 2 rounds each time - Fail - only 1, I was going to do this Saturday but felt really tired

Next weeks goals

Eat correctly all week and weigh 79kg again
2 runs one long distance, 1 short and fast
Climb twice - Both sessions back to endurance
2 sessions of TFTNA conditioning 2 rounds each time


M - TFTNA condition. 1 core warm up and 2 rounds conditioning - 1 hour
T - Indoor climbing on 4x5 on a 12 meter wall. route is graded 6b+ but it is more like 6a
W - Road running 20 min intervals 30 seconds fast 2 min slow
T - AM 10 min core session, PM climbing same as Monday
F - Rest
S - Forced rest day
S - 10.5 mile slow run - 2 hours 250 meter accent

Happy Training
Lee

In reply to leeboy1985:

Nice one- as discussed above, the 1100kcal note was absolutely just a nudge to make sure you're not being hard on yourself. Obviously not as you ticked it

In reply to humptydumpty:




http://www.prashad.co.uk/gift-shop/prashad-cook-book

Get this book, it's amazing. Never knew curry could taste this good, especially without any meat.

In reply to guy127917:


Thanks Guy,
I was trying to outline my goals and ambitions mostly to get them fixed in my mind. I'm glad you found them inspiring. They were meant to be very personal, and I wouldn't want to suggest anyone did the same.

I have been super lazy. I've basically had a week off with only gentle stretching. I can't remember the last time I did this, and I feel really charged. My new lattice plan is all about getting strong. I'm itching to start tonight.

Basically, I'm going to try not to care about grades for a year. I'm going to try and get stronger, improve my posture, increase flexibility and get mentally stronger. I'm still working out how I'll do all these and measure improvement, but I should lay down some goals in the next few weeks. I've signed up for a pilates taster tomorrow, so I'll try and get an idea if this will help. I'm re-reading "The Vertical Mind" and this is giving some new ideas about mental training.

I hope to reap the benefits in 2018. The number one priority is strength, because this is a weakness for me (no contradiction intended).

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks.
I'm hoping it just not lost water and the next time I over eat it all comes back

In reply to AJM:


Well you've spoilt it now!

Here's the idea;
It took me almost exactly 5 years to get from 7c+ to 8a, not through hitting the limit of ability but due mostly to endless injuries, lack of exposure to routes, my own stupidity, stuff like that.
I'd like to make a bit more progress in the next 5 years, and the training is going so well that I got all overexcited and started thinking about big numbers.
5 years this March will actually mark my 40th birthday too, so my new, ridiculous, BHAG is to climb 9a before I'm 40.

Tom's response to this wasn't immediate howls of laughter, which was encouraging, but he suggested breaking it down to more achievable steps which are more likely to lead to a successful outcome, so stage 1 if you like of the BHAG will be to climb 8b by the end of the year.

Apparently if your dreams don't scare you they aren't big enough...

In reply to Dandan:

Sorry

Glad to see ambition running high. Ideas as to which?

I haven't reiterated bhags for some time and really probably ought to.....

In reply to Dandan:

That's brilliant. I really hope you get it.

In reply to AJM:


Well first off I fully realise that it's a ludicrous goal that has every chance of not happening, so I'm not getting too hung up on specifically which route quite yet, but most likely something in Margalef as we hope to buy a house there in the next few years which should make projecting a little easier.
The obvious choice is Era Vella (9a) but I'll see how my strengths and weaknesses develop over time, perhaps a shorter, bouldery route might fit the bill better. It will almost certainly be on Spanish limestone though.

In reply to Dandan:
Nice one Dan, it's a great goal to have... I'm interested to see how your intermediate steps break down too.
I'd have thought moving to Margalef would definitely help!

In reply to AJM:




...still Tom et je ris?

In reply to Si dH:

Definitely big, hairy and audacious, as well as being a damned awkward choice!

In reply to guy127917:

The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)

Weight - 13st 10lbs

M - Indoor routes (harder stuff)
T - Rest
W - Indoor routes (harder stuff)
T - Rest
S - Indoor routes - 30 routes
S - Rest

Three sessions this week which is quite nice. Nothing major, trying some harder routes at the wall, more of a 'power' session. Then one longer routes session. Really need to start on the diet, but I say that most weeks and fail miserably.

In reply to guy127917:
Hi, thanks Guy, late getting down to this, work very busy, which is quite cool and wont last for ever.

Feels like I am slipping back into the groove after what was effectively a three month break on top of a disrupted year. A good groove I hasten to add in part as I ended up more confident that I can climb harder than I ever have done and can really enjoy that.

Did not mention it on last posting but on the 6th Jan I started a 12 week course of eye wateringly expensive drugs to tackle a long term illness which I have managed by diets etc for many years. The last time I took any mainstream treatment was 2005-12 months of effectively chemo that slaughtered me-my 7 hour ascent of Pen y fan a couple of weeks after I finished stands out as one of my tougher days ever in the hills-cruising this time, completely new class of drugs with very high success rate.

Been keeping up the core, 60 secs on side planks and I just cant count in my head and breath so using a timer for the first time ever-my seconds are far longer than real seconds which is a relief, probably by as much as 10%-repeaters just got noticeably easier.

Got a short term goal-don't damage shoulder and work a blue 50 move circuit (6b+ish) no hard moves so I can completely style it by end of month. Can sketch around it but doing this will gently address technique, endurance and strength. Will look around and see where I am at-may ask a freind to help write a training plann at that point though it will probably be quite brutal.

Cant remember exact details but kept up core-3 days on one day rest and shoulder strength
M-4 mile run, worked very late shift, like 1am Tuesday
T-Core?strength sauna
W-TCA, pootling on boulder problems wondering how to use my time and not get injured.
T-Run, core
Fri-Long day at work, core if it was an on day.
Sat-TCA, light bulb moment about circuit, can do it but v lungy and snatchy, be good to style it.
Sun-drive to see aged P, yoga, core, strength.

Cheers

Rich

In reply to guy127917:

Cheers Guy. Nearly forgot, it's been one of those weeks - again.

My plan for that type of comp (30 problems 4 weeks to do them in) is not to go all out in one session. I just did too much and should have stopped but carried on. I wasn't feeling tired but will now recognise the signs of when to stop a bit better. So a few easier ones and a couple of hard ones each visit make more sense. Route reading is not normally an issue - though we all make mistakes.

I had an idea for 3 sessions last week but ended up with one and that was just an easy session with a quick hit to see what the fingerboard felt like. Hard! When I think that I could do multiple repeaters on the bottom rungs (BM2K) with a good amount of added weight (I think about 15kg) and had added weight on front 2, mid 2, front 3 it was a bit depressing. However I also remember that it didn't take me long to get there. So I may start that again.

Unfortunately time is looking like being even more limited in the near future. Lots going on in all areas of my life atm. Was chatting to someone at the wall the other day and I do have Summer off from Uni. Long mountain days on the classics and visiting lots of places I've never been sounds good atm and will actually be achievable.

I am currently eating large amount of convenience food, not doing much exercise and feeling bleurgh. Ah well it won't last for ever.