UKC

An account of climbing the Heckmair Route on the Eiger North Face, focussing on a more hospitable perception of the face and the mental hurdles that far outweigh the physical. "I see no hollow sunken chest, no bared ribcage hung with webs to catch the flies. What I see is a mother's arms, embracing her children and showing them the way."

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In reply to UKC Articles:

Superb writing! Many thanks!

In reply to UKC Articles:

Wonderful artice. Wonderful.


If my partner read this, she would smile knowingly.

Mick

In reply to UKC Articles:

excellent. one of the best reads.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Fantastic article, thank you for sharing.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Fantastic read mate, well done.

In reply to UKC Articles:

really enjoyed, your writing is a bit different (in a good way!) - thanks

In reply to UKC Articles:

Am guessing this is the Dan we met at the Guggihutte this December? Nice write-up! How'd you guys get on with the Lauper? We headed back down and returned to Chamonix. Was pretty gutting to head all that way and get nothing done but was pretty pleased not to miss my flight back to the UK. Looked pretty windy up there in the morning!

In reply to UKC Articles:

Beautifully written. Well done.

In reply to UKC Articles:

A fantastic read Daniel and superbly written! Maa-hoosive congratulations on climbing a much coveted route and an experience of a lifetime!
Cheers
Dave

In reply to UKC Articles:

Excellent article. It is great to read about the doubts and fears we all have (or should have). Facing and overcoming these fears is not always easy. Well done on a wonderful effort.

In reply to tjoliver:

Dont worry. Good Decision! The wind was dying down as per the forecast, but when we got to the great roof the foen clouds pushed back over the joch, the wind slammed back, and we were showered relentlessly by spindrift. Was great fun until then, but of course the mountain always shows the way, and we scampered home, tails between the legs. Glad to be out though, a nice mini-trembler to keep us going through the Christmas period!

In reply to Dan Moore:

Nice one. Good effort having a go!

In reply to UKC Articles:

Great article - thanks and congratulations.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Don't often post on here, but really enjoyed that. More please!

In reply to UKC Articles:

I really enjoyed this article - thank you for sharing!

In reply to UKC Articles:

Yes, that not being able to sleep before a big route does get easier with experience, but when you are pushing your limit or on something with a big reputation, it all seems top make it harder. but as you state, it all begins with the first step. Once you start moving, hopefully you click into gear and experience takes over.
An enjoyable read, the buzz of the climb really comes across in the writing. We really must have some sort of annual retrospective award for best article submitted during the year. Are you reading this at UKC?

In reply to UKC Articles:

Beautifully recounted. "The simple truth is that I grew a day older, gained new trust in a friend, and captured a memory that's mine alone" resonates with my climbing experiences from the Mittelegi to Sou'wester Slabs.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Wonderful. A really worthy and different addition to the rich Eiger literature.

In reply to UKC Articles:
Fantastic article really well written and relevant to any big route where the outcome is uncertain. Hopefully I'll get there one day.

In reply to UKC Articles:

It's really not that difficult. It's been a long time since this route needed to be feared. Modern gear, weather reports, climbing in winter--all have made this just another day on the hill, so to speak

In reply to UKC Articles:
Brilliant article. Thank you.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Great read, conveying the swings of anticipation and realization with real style.

In reply to chamonix:


There is no doubt that all these things have made a significant difference, but your post will seem mean and belittling of the achievement or dreams of many, many who have climbed the face or who aspire to do so. For the majority of alpinists it will remain a major challenge.

In reply to chamonix:
While the author agrees that the physical difficulties do not live up to their notorious/ committing/ killer nature in a Carefully Approached 'Modern' Atmosphere (as is clearly seen within the body of this contemplative report), he has withheld from such blatant statements that it is "really not that difficult", so as not to provoke a new wave of under-experienced suiters from getting ahead of themselves and possibly into trouble. His choice of words avoid this, by rather focusing on the psychology of climbing a historic route, and on his heartfelt, kinder personification, showing that the dark and evil sounding attributions of the past are unnecessary, that in fact the dark things are inside of us- "the ego" for example, and that they are the real obstacles we all face.

Fair opinion, but I would caution against the careless down grade to "just another day on the hill", which is funnily enough a statement delivered seamlessly by the everyday climber's collective ego. You will never know who's life your words might put in danger.

In reply to UKC Articles:

well worth the read - thanks

In reply to UKC Articles:

Really nice; good skills!

When did you climb?

In reply to Dan Moore:

Very nice article.

Regarding other comments on the difficulty, I have not been on the face for 25 years, but am constantly amused by the grades given to various sections, but thats a grade creep issue.

Conditions can vary wildly and the whole route is still long by any standards.
I bet the Ice Hose, Ramp, Quartz Crack and especially the Exit Cracks can still spank unless conditions are favourable.

The first pitch of the Exit Cracks which was discussed in detail on here a few years ago is a nightmare in lean or verglassed condition. Fancy axes will not help, its pure bridging or scratching up sloping limestone
The same grade in 1930's or modern crampons.

Still a right of passage, I have yet to meet anybody who can say they climbed the 38 route without having a grin from ear to ear.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Really enjoyed this thanks.