UKC

Morning,

I left my AKU Utah Micro by a fire and the toe box caved in which means I need new boots. I've got some B3s for proper actual winter but would like a pair of sturdy B1 or light B2 for the real world in the UK.

I have fallen arches so wide forefoot but use green superfeet.

They'll be used for general purpose mountaineering, hill walking, via ferrata, summer alpine, English/Welsh winter.

They'll need a heel welt as I use G2 crampons (aware that B1 boots won't officially support these...)


I've tried on sportiva trango s evo which were pretty comfy but maybe a little narrow. Trango Cube which felt very narrow in the heel and scarpe manta pro which were not comfortable. trango s evo are looking good but I worry they're a bit bendy for G12s if I want to climb (up to maybe III) in them. I've also heard the sole can give up quickly.

As I had AKU before and they were good I'm going to try the Superalp and the Terrealte.

Any other suggestions to try on?

Cheers!

In reply to TomGB:

I've been using salewa ravens for the last year or so. Lighter than my old summer boots but seemed robust enough for winter climbing and walking. In fact I wore them for walking in the summer too.

They've a newer model out now so don't know how they compare.

In reply to TomGB: I've been using the new Scarpa Charmoz OD so far this winter and I'm very impressed. Probably the best B2 boot I've worn, light, comfy etc. Grade III might be a stretch but it'd depend on the type of route (rocky mixed, probably fine; sustained ice probably less so) and to an extent the length of your feet (hence bendiness of the sole through leverage). The usual caveat re personal fit applies of course, but they've proved a good match for my broad feet too.

We'll be publishing a review of them next week if you can hold on

In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com:
Yeah I was looking at the charmoz but they didn't have them in my local shop. Considering they're also B2 and significantly lighter and oranger than the Mantas I'm left wondering what the point of the mantas is?

I'll look into Salewa cheers. They definitely have the Euro climbing bird of paradise look I'm striving for

They'll be for my birthday next month so no rush I'll await your review.

In reply to TomGB: I'm in a similar position. I currently use a 'mountain' running shoe (usually a Salomon Speedcross or Sense Ultra), or the B3 Scarpa Rebel Ultra but don't have much in between. I'm looking for a shoe that's light, stiff, can take a crampon, good for all day scrambling and summer mountains.

I've had the Scarpa Rebel Light on, and it felt light and had a good fit, but the other shoe that really tempts is the Salomon X-Alp Carbon as ideally I want something leaning towards a running shoe feel

In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com:

Can second the charmoz being a quality boot, work them for at least a few 8 hour days and they've been through streams, bogs and lots of wet snow. Even stood in a lake in them for a bit. Used them only on climbs up to grade 3 but managed to get up a M8 in them so can definitely recommend!!

In reply to TomGB:

I've been very impressed with the Scarpa rebel lites. I've got a wide forefoot and they are v comfortable. They have a heel welt and take a crampon well (I've put a flexible bar on them and have climbed alpine AD and winter Grade 3 routes with no issues. Very good on a long walk in as well.

In reply to TomGB:

Have the Salomon X-AlpMtn Goretex and found it very good for walking and scrambling: the heel seems to be held quite firmly and there is lateral but not not longitudinal rigidity in the toe. Not tried it with crampons but its said to be OK on easy stuff. No heel welt
Have read that the Salomon X-Alp Carbon has a similar sole and is comparable in weight to an approach shoe but gives less ankle support and would not last well.
Have found North Face Verto S4K is a good, B2 boot with a wide fitting and a heel welt, but its probably not the lower end B2 you're looking for.
I've been looking at new crampons recently and one sales assistant claimed that some hybrid bindings, eg Grivel New Matic, don't actually need a heel welt. Of course one could consider a strap binding which would fit most boots and any crampon.

In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com:
Yes I got a pairof Charmoz OD this winter and have found them great so far.
Light, comfy and precise. Almost as good as my very worn Rebel GTX (not the lite)but they feel a lot more robust too. only thing I'd say is they're a narrower last than previous models which is great for my thin feet (or did I just get a skinny pair?)but maybe not for Tom's wider feet...that and you've got to love orange...sounds like he has tho.
Incidentally I'm the very sweaty hillrunner from ben Aan that said hello at the end of the summer... I'll look forward to reading your review.