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I have heard a lot about cullin ridge, i have not read the guidebook for it yet but was wondering what it would be like to solo cullin ridge.
In reply to dan tipper:
One great adventure. A lot of people post asking for details, and never get around to it.
I would go fat and slow, bivvy and enjoy
One great adventure. A lot of people post asking for details, and never get around to it.
I would go fat and slow, bivvy and enjoy
Post edited at 21:06
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In reply to dan tipper:
Plenty people do it but it's not that easy. The hard bits have low grades but they aren't friendly solos. Would be a great thing to do if you are good enough. Personally, I needed a rope.
Plenty people do it but it's not that easy. The hard bits have low grades but they aren't friendly solos. Would be a great thing to do if you are good enough. Personally, I needed a rope.
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In reply to dan tipper:
Did it ten years ago. Went light and fast.
Quite possibly the best day I have ever had in the mountains.
Cheers
Mark
Did it ten years ago. Went light and fast.
Quite possibly the best day I have ever had in the mountains.
Cheers
Mark
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In reply to dan tipper:
I haven't done the ridge (unfortunately) but I just wanted to add that you want to be confident at the grade due to the exposure and difficulty of escape without being able to abseil. Make sure you tell someone when you'll be back ect.
Apologies if that's all obvious to you but I felt I should say it anyway.
I haven't done the ridge (unfortunately) but I just wanted to add that you want to be confident at the grade due to the exposure and difficulty of escape without being able to abseil. Make sure you tell someone when you'll be back ect.
Apologies if that's all obvious to you but I felt I should say it anyway.
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In reply to dan tipper:
Because you're asking the question I suspect you'd be much better doing it with a partner. The hardest bits feel much better on a rope unless you have a bit in reserve or know them well.
I think there are ways to avoid all the pitched climbing if that's what you'd prefer.
Because you're asking the question I suspect you'd be much better doing it with a partner. The hardest bits feel much better on a rope unless you have a bit in reserve or know them well.
I think there are ways to avoid all the pitched climbing if that's what you'd prefer.
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In reply to zimpara:
For once I agree with you - apart from going fat; that's not a matter of choice.
For once I agree with you - apart from going fat; that's not a matter of choice.
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In reply to dan tipper:
I attempted to solo the ridge onsight in October 2015. I did about 1/3 of the ridge, as far as Sgurr Alisdair. Route finding can be difficult, it's this that will make or break an attempt more than anything else as having to backtrack takes time. If all goes well a time of about 7 hours is considered good for a fast solo traverse. I went in shorts, vest and a light mountain running pack.
I found the downclimb into the TD Gap quite hairy - it was a bit wet, whereas the climb back out was very enjoyable, and dry.
I attempted to solo the ridge onsight in October 2015. I did about 1/3 of the ridge, as far as Sgurr Alisdair. Route finding can be difficult, it's this that will make or break an attempt more than anything else as having to backtrack takes time. If all goes well a time of about 7 hours is considered good for a fast solo traverse. I went in shorts, vest and a light mountain running pack.
I found the downclimb into the TD Gap quite hairy - it was a bit wet, whereas the climb back out was very enjoyable, and dry.
In reply to dan tipper:
If you miss out all the actual climbing pitches (which is possible) then soloing it would be realistic if you're happy soloing moderate with the odd short steep of diff or v.diff in very exposed positions, most people probably end up doing that anyway.
However, soloing the climbing pitches is a different matter. For example when I lead Naismith's Route (V.Diff) in approach shoes, with no chalk, a minimal rack and knackered, coming as it does almost at the end of the ridge, I found it pretty desperate and I was leading a lot of E1's at the time.
If you miss out all the actual climbing pitches (which is possible) then soloing it would be realistic if you're happy soloing moderate with the odd short steep of diff or v.diff in very exposed positions, most people probably end up doing that anyway.
However, soloing the climbing pitches is a different matter. For example when I lead Naismith's Route (V.Diff) in approach shoes, with no chalk, a minimal rack and knackered, coming as it does almost at the end of the ridge, I found it pretty desperate and I was leading a lot of E1's at the time.
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In reply to pec:
I led these lines onsight on my one day ridge traverse in good approach shoes with very few runners (and knackered by Naismiths) and I felt they were about Hard Severe in equivalence. Clean exposed HVD climbing on good rock. The footholds were such that it looked like climbing shoes would make little difference . The psychological onsight crux sections to me were all exposed and unclear scramble descents, some loose. I wouldn't fancy the onsight down solo into the TD gap in approach shoes (solid Severe, slippy and often damp) nor down the front of the In Pin (I'd reverse the mod). Not disimilar to you I was leading a few E1s at the time but also a huge volume of lower grade stuff (had a injured knee so couldn't run.. had to climb volume to get fit). Like Mark it was my best ever day in the mountains.
I led these lines onsight on my one day ridge traverse in good approach shoes with very few runners (and knackered by Naismiths) and I felt they were about Hard Severe in equivalence. Clean exposed HVD climbing on good rock. The footholds were such that it looked like climbing shoes would make little difference . The psychological onsight crux sections to me were all exposed and unclear scramble descents, some loose. I wouldn't fancy the onsight down solo into the TD gap in approach shoes (solid Severe, slippy and often damp) nor down the front of the In Pin (I'd reverse the mod). Not disimilar to you I was leading a few E1s at the time but also a huge volume of lower grade stuff (had a injured knee so couldn't run.. had to climb volume to get fit). Like Mark it was my best ever day in the mountains.
Post edited at 10:48
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In reply to Offwidth:
You could ab those bits if you take a rope. TD gap is the dodgiest section to solo, I would say - slippery and thrutchy. Once committed if get it wrong you would probably fall as reversing would be tricky.
You could ab those bits if you take a rope. TD gap is the dodgiest section to solo, I would say - slippery and thrutchy. Once committed if get it wrong you would probably fall as reversing would be tricky.
In reply to Offwidth:
There's a question. If you need 38m, say, and forget to add a middle mark so when you set things up one tail is slightly longer than the other, is there any way you can adjust the ropes while abseiling? If your weight is on them, I guessing not at all easily.
There's a question. If you need 38m, say, and forget to add a middle mark so when you set things up one tail is slightly longer than the other, is there any way you can adjust the ropes while abseiling? If your weight is on them, I guessing not at all easily.
In reply to Offwidth:
I did it in a pair of Innov-8s. It was greasy and I don't relish the prospect of doing it again. I recall taking a slight rightward (facing in) traverse rather than the shortest route down. After that I wasn't particularly looking forward to the downclimb off the In Pin but would probably also have reversed the ascent if I'd gotten that far.
> I wouldn't fancy the onsight down solo into the TD gap in approach shoes (solid Severe, slippy and often damp) nor down the front of the In Pin (I'd reverse the mod).
I did it in a pair of Innov-8s. It was greasy and I don't relish the prospect of doing it again. I recall taking a slight rightward (facing in) traverse rather than the shortest route down. After that I wasn't particularly looking forward to the downclimb off the In Pin but would probably also have reversed the ascent if I'd gotten that far.
Post edited at 11:21
In reply to MG:
I've adjusted many times on real raps that were a stretch but my 38m offcut was OK. The very bottom bit of the In Pinn descent isn't so bad anyhow. The exact length is for dynamic ropes... you would need slightly more than 40m for static line.
I've adjusted many times on real raps that were a stretch but my 38m offcut was OK. The very bottom bit of the In Pinn descent isn't so bad anyhow. The exact length is for dynamic ropes... you would need slightly more than 40m for static line.
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In reply to MG:
Not very easily no.
But this abseil goes on a 34m rope on stretch apparently, so as long as you are not more than 3 metres out. You will be good. *Crosses fingers
Not very easily no.
But this abseil goes on a 34m rope on stretch apparently, so as long as you are not more than 3 metres out. You will be good. *Crosses fingers
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In reply to zimpara:
It doesn't. And the bottom is steep/overhanging and polished...
> But this abseil goes on a 34m rope on stretch apparently,
It doesn't. And the bottom is steep/overhanging and polished...
Post edited at 12:26
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In reply to MG:
Done it many, many times with a 35m rope which reached the ground easily so I'm sure 34m would be Ok .
Done it many, many times with a 35m rope which reached the ground easily so I'm sure 34m would be Ok .
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In reply to atrendall:
That doesn't seem to be the general view (see other threads) - how do people know how long their ropes are anyway? Regardless, left hanging a few metres up at that point would be a real pain, not least for the next group wanting to come down.
That doesn't seem to be the general view (see other threads) - how do people know how long their ropes are anyway? Regardless, left hanging a few metres up at that point would be a real pain, not least for the next group wanting to come down.
In reply to MG:
If you don't know how long your rope is and you don't know where the middle is or how to find it, you have no business being on the ridge.
If you don't know how long your rope is and you don't know where the middle is or how to find it, you have no business being on the ridge.
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In reply to zimpara:
Err right thanks for the advice. Must have been very lucky on 6 occasions. Have you ever been?
Err right thanks for the advice. Must have been very lucky on 6 occasions. Have you ever been?
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In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Or carry a light rope - saves several awkward downclimbs whichever direction you go anyway.
> You want to be confident at the grade due to the exposure and difficulty of escape without being able to abseil.
Or carry a light rope - saves several awkward downclimbs whichever direction you go anyway.
In reply to galpinos:
Don't be mean.
But yes I know how long my ropes currently are. Oddly enough, my meteor is 3 metres longer than the label says it should be.
MG: I wasn't talking about you personally, so don't take it personally. I used 'you' where I should have used 'people'.
> Wow! Do you measure all your ropes?
Don't be mean.
But yes I know how long my ropes currently are. Oddly enough, my meteor is 3 metres longer than the label says it should be.
MG: I wasn't talking about you personally, so don't take it personally. I used 'you' where I should have used 'people'.
Post edited at 13:38
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In reply to dan tipper:
If you're struggling to work out where the middle of a rope is then you should probably ask your responsible adult or guardian to help you.
If you're struggling to work out where the middle of a rope is then you should probably ask your responsible adult or guardian to help you.
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In reply to dan tipper:
One thing that helps with Cuillin traverses is already knowing the ground. Doing shorter sections prior to it is not a bad idea, though not essential of course.
One thing that helps with Cuillin traverses is already knowing the ground. Doing shorter sections prior to it is not a bad idea, though not essential of course.
In reply to zimpara:
If you don't quite have enough rope to get down, just make sure you have extra long bootlaces that you can ab off.
Right?
If you don't quite have enough rope to get down, just make sure you have extra long bootlaces that you can ab off.
Right?
Post edited at 16:40
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In reply to dan tipper:
I spent a few days hiking up there a couple of years ago. I really liked it and would love to do the whole ridge in one push but was surprised about the exposure and relentless nature of it. Even when it's 'easy' you still need to be fully switched on - I think the concentration needed would really tire me out. Definitely spend a bit of time up there first to get a feel for it.
Sorry if this is obvious stuff.
Good luck!
I spent a few days hiking up there a couple of years ago. I really liked it and would love to do the whole ridge in one push but was surprised about the exposure and relentless nature of it. Even when it's 'easy' you still need to be fully switched on - I think the concentration needed would really tire me out. Definitely spend a bit of time up there first to get a feel for it.
Sorry if this is obvious stuff.
Good luck!
In reply to dan tipper:
I did bits of the ridge as a teenager and what I remember is the abrasion of the gabbroe; my fingers were scored and sore afterwards and my boots quite damaged.
I did bits of the ridge as a teenager and what I remember is the abrasion of the gabbroe; my fingers were scored and sore afterwards and my boots quite damaged.
In reply to dan tipper:
Dan, I would ignore all comments from anyone who hasn't actually done it, their comments are of little value because the ridge is unique. The only thing that properly prepares you is to have experience of it before, so if you're thinking of soloing - don't, not without prior experience of it. Like the Alps, you can easily waste a lot of time faffing around where the route is less obvious. I've always roped parts of it TD Gap, off the Inn Pin & Naismiths being obvious. You can avoid the latter, but you loose a lot of height, then double back from the other side (going s-n, not something to do when you're knackered anyway). But why rush, it's a magical experience, so when you do it, make the most of it & good luck.
Dan, I would ignore all comments from anyone who hasn't actually done it, their comments are of little value because the ridge is unique. The only thing that properly prepares you is to have experience of it before, so if you're thinking of soloing - don't, not without prior experience of it. Like the Alps, you can easily waste a lot of time faffing around where the route is less obvious. I've always roped parts of it TD Gap, off the Inn Pin & Naismiths being obvious. You can avoid the latter, but you loose a lot of height, then double back from the other side (going s-n, not something to do when you're knackered anyway). But why rush, it's a magical experience, so when you do it, make the most of it & good luck.
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In reply to Michael Gordon:
Very true but I can't be the only one who wanted the hard pitches and navigation onsight for the adventure. I'd avoided routes and peaks previously for that reason.
Very true but I can't be the only one who wanted the hard pitches and navigation onsight for the adventure. I'd avoided routes and peaks previously for that reason.
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In reply to dan tipper:
Definitely fast and light, if you split it over 2 days the extra gear required for a bivvy really adds up and detracts from the experience making everything very cumbersome. Any doubt about the attempt - definitely better with a partner and a rope. I would definitely bivvy below the starting point and then stash everything and collect it after your attempt has finished. If you do a one day push it helps to have someone who can collect you at the end as it can be difficult otherwise to get back to your car etc.
There is a small rock fax guide to the traverse which is worth its weight in gold when attempting the traverse for the first time !
Definitely fast and light, if you split it over 2 days the extra gear required for a bivvy really adds up and detracts from the experience making everything very cumbersome. Any doubt about the attempt - definitely better with a partner and a rope. I would definitely bivvy below the starting point and then stash everything and collect it after your attempt has finished. If you do a one day push it helps to have someone who can collect you at the end as it can be difficult otherwise to get back to your car etc.
There is a small rock fax guide to the traverse which is worth its weight in gold when attempting the traverse for the first time !
Post edited at 17:49
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In reply to Barrington:
I disagree. If you can cope with the climbing, a solo onsight is a great prize and worth the attempt. The ridge is easily escapable at numerous points, if you fail you can always go back for another try.
> The only thing that properly prepares you is to have experience of it before, so if you're thinking of soloing - don't, not without prior experience of it.
I disagree. If you can cope with the climbing, a solo onsight is a great prize and worth the attempt. The ridge is easily escapable at numerous points, if you fail you can always go back for another try.
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In reply to Offwidth:
I know what you mean and did the same for the hard pitches. Navigation-wise I'd done the main peaks before but sometimes going the other way and not recent. I did enjoy all those previous days and didn't think I'd 'lost' something having been places before.
> Very true but I can't be the only one who wanted the hard pitches and navigation onsight for the adventure. I'd avoided routes and peaks previously for that reason.
I know what you mean and did the same for the hard pitches. Navigation-wise I'd done the main peaks before but sometimes going the other way and not recent. I did enjoy all those previous days and didn't think I'd 'lost' something having been places before.
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In reply to Michael Gordon:
That is a redpoint ascent then correct?
> One thing that helps with Cuillin traverses is already knowing the ground.
That is a redpoint ascent then correct?
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In reply to dan tipper:
It depends on how comfortable you are on exposed terrain. Even by avoiding the main climbing pitches (TD Gap and Naismith's Route), there is still a lot of unavoidable scrambling up to Diff grade, with sometimes time-consuming route finding. The concentration required for this means that the mental challenge is at least as important as the physical challenge. Being a scrambler rather than a climber, personally I avoided the pitches when I did my traverse, and bivvied out to allow a more comfortable pace. Even with a 35m rope (for abseiling off the In Pinn and down Bidein Druim nan Ramh), pack weight was not a particular burden. Obviously prior ridge knowledge saves time with route finding, but is by no means essential (I had made good progress on my first traverse attempt, with no prior route knowledge, until snowfall forced a retreat).
It depends on how comfortable you are on exposed terrain. Even by avoiding the main climbing pitches (TD Gap and Naismith's Route), there is still a lot of unavoidable scrambling up to Diff grade, with sometimes time-consuming route finding. The concentration required for this means that the mental challenge is at least as important as the physical challenge. Being a scrambler rather than a climber, personally I avoided the pitches when I did my traverse, and bivvied out to allow a more comfortable pace. Even with a 35m rope (for abseiling off the In Pinn and down Bidein Druim nan Ramh), pack weight was not a particular burden. Obviously prior ridge knowledge saves time with route finding, but is by no means essential (I had made good progress on my first traverse attempt, with no prior route knowledge, until snowfall forced a retreat).
In reply to Chirs:
I'm a climber. As I said, the scrambling descents were the psychological crux for me. Getting off the summit of Bidean down those overlapping slabs looks outrageous as a scramble first time round.
I'm a climber. As I said, the scrambling descents were the psychological crux for me. Getting off the summit of Bidean down those overlapping slabs looks outrageous as a scramble first time round.
In reply to planetmarshall:
Fair enough, but anyone going for it expecting to have a chance of succeeding would need a pretty solid climbing & perhaps more importantly, mountaineering background. If Dan has that, good luck to him, if not he may have a wasted trip, an epic, or worse.
Fair enough, but anyone going for it expecting to have a chance of succeeding would need a pretty solid climbing & perhaps more importantly, mountaineering background. If Dan has that, good luck to him, if not he may have a wasted trip, an epic, or worse.
In reply to dan tipper:
Dan. I haven't read the rest of the thread so this may be going over old ground, but much or all really of the ridge is semi-technical ground where you will be moving unroped for speed bit still can't afford to take a tumble - effectively you're soloing for most of it anyway. There's are several short pitches which being up to about HS in difficulty are usually climbed with a rope, most (all?) of which are easily bypassed if you don't fancy them. There are a number of down climbs/abseils which aren't so easily bypassed which you might want to take a rope for even if you are soloing.
Personally speaking, though I have climbed regularly to a reasonable standard and have soloed more routes than I've led, since I suffer from a bit of vertigo I can't say I particularly enjoyed soloing the lowly moderately graded In Pinn - notwithstanding that apparently some non climbers merrily dance up it with a bike on their backs! It's definitely horses for courses and something that only you will know if you're happy with.
If I were to solo if tomorrow, I'd solo it and skip out the TD Gap/In Pinn/King's Chimney etc., but I guess I have the excuse of having done then already.
Get a blue sky day and the whole thing will feel easier by orders of magnitude than it does when the weather is shite.
Best of luck.
Dan. I haven't read the rest of the thread so this may be going over old ground, but much or all really of the ridge is semi-technical ground where you will be moving unroped for speed bit still can't afford to take a tumble - effectively you're soloing for most of it anyway. There's are several short pitches which being up to about HS in difficulty are usually climbed with a rope, most (all?) of which are easily bypassed if you don't fancy them. There are a number of down climbs/abseils which aren't so easily bypassed which you might want to take a rope for even if you are soloing.
Personally speaking, though I have climbed regularly to a reasonable standard and have soloed more routes than I've led, since I suffer from a bit of vertigo I can't say I particularly enjoyed soloing the lowly moderately graded In Pinn - notwithstanding that apparently some non climbers merrily dance up it with a bike on their backs! It's definitely horses for courses and something that only you will know if you're happy with.
If I were to solo if tomorrow, I'd solo it and skip out the TD Gap/In Pinn/King's Chimney etc., but I guess I have the excuse of having done then already.
Get a blue sky day and the whole thing will feel easier by orders of magnitude than it does when the weather is shite.
Best of luck.
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