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While most climbers looked at the forecast today and decided to stay inside, we sat in the roaches tearoom and looked up at the skyline, we were ready. After a somewhat cold but enjoyable walk up through the roaches to the skyline we arrived at the Alpha Buttress for the headpoint of San Melas, after unpacking the bags we realise disaster had struck, there was no flask of tea! Despite this cockup we were undeterred from the goal. Rich top roped it a few times to get the beta dialled and then pressed on for the lead. After dispatching this route we moved onto prelude to space and the real goal, wings of unreason. Even though the foothold has now broken off (whoever did this deserves a good kicking) I managed the start and after a couple of attempts at the top dyno (I'm 5"6) I had it wired. This is definitely on for next time I'm at the roaches.
So the question I really wanted to ask UKC today was, is gravy acceptable on chips?
So the question I really wanted to ask UKC today was, is gravy acceptable on chips?
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In reply to dinodinosaur:
Yes, but you might want to have a practice go first.
> , is gravy acceptable on chips?
Yes, but you might want to have a practice go first.
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In reply to dinodinosaur:
This is the Rich who is having dig at someone because they use jamming gloves and has to head point E3.
This is the Rich who is having dig at someone because they use jamming gloves and has to head point E3.
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In reply to webbo:
Brutal.
> This is the Rich who is having dig at someone because they use jamming gloves and has to head point E3.
Brutal.
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In reply to dinodinosaur:
Would you like crag by crag list as it might get a bit tedious having done a 100 routes in a day on Stange when it felt too hot to do anything hard
Would Goosey Goosey, Old Friends, Calvary, Censor do to get you started and as for baby, maybe you need to grow up or grow some.
Would you like crag by crag list as it might get a bit tedious having done a 100 routes in a day on Stange when it felt too hot to do anything hard
Would Goosey Goosey, Old Friends, Calvary, Censor do to get you started and as for baby, maybe you need to grow up or grow some.
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In reply to webbo:
Maybe if you weren't private on UKC we could all see your 100 diffs in a day #jussayin
Maybe if you weren't private on UKC we could all see your 100 diffs in a day #jussayin
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In reply to dinodinosaur:
There's a picture of you on Flying Butress how come you need a rope if your such a rock cougar.
There's a picture of you on Flying Butress how come you need a rope if your such a rock cougar.
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In reply to webbo:
Ukc stalker alert
> There's a picture of you on Flying Butress how come you need a rope if your such a rock cougar.
Ukc stalker alert
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In reply to webbo:
I was just doing my bit for the community and leading it so the kids from the orphanage could second me up it
I was just doing my bit for the community and leading it so the kids from the orphanage could second me up it
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In reply to dinodinosaur:
Sorry I apologise I didn't realise you were part of care in the community.
Sorry I apologise I didn't realise you were part of care in the community.
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In reply to dinodinosaur:
That foothold on Wings disappeared one day after some folk tried to lead it when it was damp.
Worth remembering that cloudy/ damp days aren't the best for grit, unless you want a kicking???
That foothold on Wings disappeared one day after some folk tried to lead it when it was damp.
Worth remembering that cloudy/ damp days aren't the best for grit, unless you want a kicking???
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In reply to andi turner:
It wasn't damp in the slightest, cloudy yes, but not damp.
Didn't realise there were rules on when you can climb or not.
It wasn't damp in the slightest, cloudy yes, but not damp.
Didn't realise there were rules on when you can climb or not.
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In reply to andi turner:
As kez replied the rock was bone dry yesterday, as I've never heard of this phenomenon before I feel like it should be more widely known if its true to help prevent the further snapping of holds on classic routes. And yes if I snapped a hold off through negligence I would deserve a kicking.
As kez replied the rock was bone dry yesterday, as I've never heard of this phenomenon before I feel like it should be more widely known if its true to help prevent the further snapping of holds on classic routes. And yes if I snapped a hold off through negligence I would deserve a kicking.
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In reply to kez1:
There's no rules. You can place bolts if you want, but it won't win you many friends.
Climbing porous rock when it is damp is a bad idea, it is much more likely to break.
I saw the footlhold start to break about three years ago, it seemed like a dry day, but the rock was damp under it's skin. The person in question fell off the top move and swung into the rock a bit and the foothold crumbled a little, it's then wore away as more people use it.
I can introduce to the person in question if you'd like?
There's no rules. You can place bolts if you want, but it won't win you many friends.
Climbing porous rock when it is damp is a bad idea, it is much more likely to break.
I saw the footlhold start to break about three years ago, it seemed like a dry day, but the rock was damp under it's skin. The person in question fell off the top move and swung into the rock a bit and the foothold crumbled a little, it's then wore away as more people use it.
I can introduce to the person in question if you'd like?
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In reply to andi turner:
I hope you realise the kicking comment was meant tongue in cheek as was the whole post just look at the last sentence... By all means send him link to this thread so he can weigh in on the discussion
I hope you realise the kicking comment was meant tongue in cheek as was the whole post just look at the last sentence... By all means send him link to this thread so he can weigh in on the discussion
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In reply to webbo:
E3? I thought San Melas was V2
> This is the Rich who is having dig at someone because they use jamming gloves and has to head point E3.
E3? I thought San Melas was V2
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In reply to dinodinosaur:
I wonder if you are getting a hard time here as the post seems a little too self congratulatory for our British understated taste? Sounds like you had a great time on a less than perfect day, which is always a bonus.
I wonder if you are getting a hard time here as the post seems a little too self congratulatory for our British understated taste? Sounds like you had a great time on a less than perfect day, which is always a bonus.
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Only one person has actually answered my question, is gravy acceptable on chips...
In reply to dinodinosaur:
it seems every contributor to thread has missed the real issue here, the OP puts tea in a flask! dirty bastard
it seems every contributor to thread has missed the real issue here, the OP puts tea in a flask! dirty bastard
Post edited at 11:42
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In reply to dinodinosaur:
I was climbing at the Roaches all day Saturday and it was bitter cold and damp. I think on behalf of all UKC we need to offer our congratulations, you were indeed a brave little soldier. I think practicing the route till you got it wired was the safe thing to do. What fools grade these things for the on-sight anyway?
I was climbing at the Roaches all day Saturday and it was bitter cold and damp. I think on behalf of all UKC we need to offer our congratulations, you were indeed a brave little soldier. I think practicing the route till you got it wired was the safe thing to do. What fools grade these things for the on-sight anyway?
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In reply to dinodinosaur:
Unfortunately between this and being disrespectful to visiting climbers I am most probably "getting" it. But please tell me your point, if it's not just wanting a fragile little ego stroking?
Unfortunately between this and being disrespectful to visiting climbers I am most probably "getting" it. But please tell me your point, if it's not just wanting a fragile little ego stroking?
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In reply to dinodinosaur:
No, we get it - you came on here to brag. The issue is simply that few people are impressed by mid-grade headpointing, even fewer people are impressed by bragging about mid-grade headpointing, and practically no one is impressed by calling someone else "weak" for using crack climbing gloves on the same day that you've bragged about mid-grade headpointing - especially considering the hypocrisy of your whining about damage to the rock when you yourself were climbing on a damp day.
No, we get it - you came on here to brag. The issue is simply that few people are impressed by mid-grade headpointing, even fewer people are impressed by bragging about mid-grade headpointing, and practically no one is impressed by calling someone else "weak" for using crack climbing gloves on the same day that you've bragged about mid-grade headpointing - especially considering the hypocrisy of your whining about damage to the rock when you yourself were climbing on a damp day.
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In reply to Valkyrie1968:
Excellent well now sherlock Holmes has solved the mystery, UKC can go back to being a serious place of strong ethics where no one can headpoint or make jokes :') well done UKC you have successfully fed the trolls, I shall retire back under my bridge until the keyboard warriors need provoking again, good day to you!
Excellent well now sherlock Holmes has solved the mystery, UKC can go back to being a serious place of strong ethics where no one can headpoint or make jokes :') well done UKC you have successfully fed the trolls, I shall retire back under my bridge until the keyboard warriors need provoking again, good day to you!
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In reply to dinodinosaur:
I liked your little account, not sure about the gravy thing. The response you got is why the climbing forum has deteriorated over recent years. Troll baiting or not, it's typical.
I liked your little account, not sure about the gravy thing. The response you got is why the climbing forum has deteriorated over recent years. Troll baiting or not, it's typical.
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In reply to caradoc:
Normally I'd agree, but not in this case: a Roaches BMC access rep hasn't converted to troll. Just maybe the OP is part of the problem.. smug use of rock as a consumable. I get the naive enthusiasm but lots of great grit problems and some routes are being trashed by people trying to climb them in less than ideal style, in poor conditions.
.. and keep the dislikes coming (part of why I'd normally agree) these reps give up their time for free to help keep the crags open and to do things like work out ways of stabilising rock damaged from when climbed wet (like Newstones starting footholds).
Normally I'd agree, but not in this case: a Roaches BMC access rep hasn't converted to troll. Just maybe the OP is part of the problem.. smug use of rock as a consumable. I get the naive enthusiasm but lots of great grit problems and some routes are being trashed by people trying to climb them in less than ideal style, in poor conditions.
.. and keep the dislikes coming (part of why I'd normally agree) these reps give up their time for free to help keep the crags open and to do things like work out ways of stabilising rock damaged from when climbed wet (like Newstones starting footholds).
Post edited at 11:47
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In reply to caradoc:
Also, for context, it's worth a quick look at the other thread from the same little group of absolute charmers posted the same day: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=657152
Also, for context, it's worth a quick look at the other thread from the same little group of absolute charmers posted the same day: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=657152
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In reply to dinodinosaur:
Not acceptable. Essential. Chips & gravy should be a staple of everyone's diet. Especially if it's lumpy chip-shop gravy. Shame about the tea though. If you'd brought that with you, you'd have had a proper balanced diet with all three main food groups: sugar, fat and unidentified squishy-bits.
From the perspective of a 4b to 4c (on a good day) climber, I applaud your 5c & 6a -- practice, top-rope or clean. On the other hand, as one who hasn't ventured onto grit since he was at school (dipping the quill into the ink-pot on the corner of the desk), are the comments about wet grit being more friable true or is that just one that went over my head?
D
Not acceptable. Essential. Chips & gravy should be a staple of everyone's diet. Especially if it's lumpy chip-shop gravy. Shame about the tea though. If you'd brought that with you, you'd have had a proper balanced diet with all three main food groups: sugar, fat and unidentified squishy-bits.
From the perspective of a 4b to 4c (on a good day) climber, I applaud your 5c & 6a -- practice, top-rope or clean. On the other hand, as one who hasn't ventured onto grit since he was at school (dipping the quill into the ink-pot on the corner of the desk), are the comments about wet grit being more friable true or is that just one that went over my head?
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In reply to defaid:
The gritstone surface reacts with the air and lichens and forms a harder layer. The matrix underneath is much softer (something known for a long ... since the rock is easier to work on a fresh surface.. eg when making millstones .. that then need to weather again to recover surface hardness). All sandstones become more friable when the matrix is damp.. a very important reason to avoid soft sandstones after rain. http://www.lvclimberscouncil.org/climbing-after-rain
The problem on grit is at its worse on softer varieties when the surface has gone (eg Newstone.. Bridestones)... erosion is much faster then, especially if the matrix is damp. Generally even on undamaged gritstone its hard to keep shoes clean when the rock is wet and sandy shoes trash rock.
The gritstone surface reacts with the air and lichens and forms a harder layer. The matrix underneath is much softer (something known for a long ... since the rock is easier to work on a fresh surface.. eg when making millstones .. that then need to weather again to recover surface hardness). All sandstones become more friable when the matrix is damp.. a very important reason to avoid soft sandstones after rain. http://www.lvclimberscouncil.org/climbing-after-rain
The problem on grit is at its worse on softer varieties when the surface has gone (eg Newstone.. Bridestones)... erosion is much faster then, especially if the matrix is damp. Generally even on undamaged gritstone its hard to keep shoes clean when the rock is wet and sandy shoes trash rock.
Post edited at 13:04
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In reply to kez1:
There aren't, but there's ways to best look after the rock.
Heaven knows why people seem to phrase things so disagreeable on here, though, along the lines of 'worth remembering....unless you want a kicking'. It might get people to go away in everyday life, but it rarely makes people listen.
Unlike Offwidth's post above, which is the epitome of informative and polite.
> It wasn't damp in the slightest, cloudy yes, but not damp.
> Didn't realise there were rules on when you can climb or not.
There aren't, but there's ways to best look after the rock.
Heaven knows why people seem to phrase things so disagreeable on here, though, along the lines of 'worth remembering....unless you want a kicking'. It might get people to go away in everyday life, but it rarely makes people listen.
Unlike Offwidth's post above, which is the epitome of informative and polite.
Post edited at 15:54
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In reply to Timmd:
The 'kicking' bit was in direct response to the similar (unknowingly ironic) quote in the OP. Andi has lived a climbing life on the Roaches and it's easy to see why emotive responses are likely, to such apparently lazy, slow destructiveness. He is a full-on gritstone hero and part of the growing ignorance of UKC these days is that only a small fraction of the site will have the faintest idea who he is.
The 'kicking' bit was in direct response to the similar (unknowingly ironic) quote in the OP. Andi has lived a climbing life on the Roaches and it's easy to see why emotive responses are likely, to such apparently lazy, slow destructiveness. He is a full-on gritstone hero and part of the growing ignorance of UKC these days is that only a small fraction of the site will have the faintest idea who he is.
Post edited at 16:35
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In reply to Offwidth:
I think I've just been pondering recently, how the thing we're told about social media is that it can dehumanise people so that it's easier to be brusque (or more).
It suddenly struck me, that with how it's generally other humans who push our buttons, that could make it easier to be civil, too, if a couple of mins is taken to phrase things before posting. In theory it can work both ways if we want it to.
I probably haven't the faintest idea who a lot of climbers are, but I seem to have absorbed what the right thing to do is, I think that's probably the crux of keeping climbing how we would like it to be.
I think I've just been pondering recently, how the thing we're told about social media is that it can dehumanise people so that it's easier to be brusque (or more).
It suddenly struck me, that with how it's generally other humans who push our buttons, that could make it easier to be civil, too, if a couple of mins is taken to phrase things before posting. In theory it can work both ways if we want it to.
I probably haven't the faintest idea who a lot of climbers are, but I seem to have absorbed what the right thing to do is, I think that's probably the crux of keeping climbing how we would like it to be.
Post edited at 16:45
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